[Dirtydeedz]

Great Thread! Thanks to the original OP(Zep).

I have the 3 speakers on the back dash (9 speaker Alpine system). The Sub is a dual voice coil(2 Ohms?). Anyway, Can I use any of these high (Amplified) leads instead of clipping wires behind the front kick panels?
The specs on my amp: Speaker Level Inputs: The JL Audio JX250/1 also accepts speaker level signals, including those from factory systems (without the need for a line-output converter), via the supplied 10" speaker-level harness. The amplifier's high-level input can be set between 2V-10V RMS.

 

[Zeprider]

Great Thread! Thanks to the original OP(Zep).

I have the 3 speakers on the back dash (9 speaker Alpine system). The Sub is a dual voice coil(2 Ohms?). Anyway, Can I use any of these high (Amplified) leads instead of clipping wires behind the front kick panels?
The specs on my amp: Speaker Level Inputs: The JL Audio JX250/1 also accepts speaker level signals, including those from factory systems (without the need for a line-output converter), via the supplied 10" speaker-level harness. The amplifier's high-level input can be set between 2V-10V RMS.

Unfortunately I do not know the answer to this one. Not sure what those lines ate putting out.

 

[MSBullock]

Great Thread! Thanks to the original OP(Zep).

I have the 3 speakers on the back dash (9 speaker Alpine system). The Sub is a dual voice coil(2 Ohms?). Anyway, Can I use any of these high (Amplified) leads instead of clipping wires behind the front kick panels?
The specs on my amp: Speaker Level Inputs: The JL Audio JX250/1 also accepts speaker level signals, including those from factory systems (without the need for a line-output converter), via the supplied 10" speaker-level harness. The amplifier's high-level input can be set between 2V-10V RMS.

If you follow page 12 of the manual for your amp and use a test tone of aprox 50Hz, set the gain on the amp so that your outputting the acceptable voltage to the speaker resistance, you should be fine. Your gain may end up being all the way down, but you should be able to get it to play.

 

[DartBB]

Pssst there is a spare wire in the fuse box ....it is used to activate trailer light modules ....if you dont have a hitch.

You can use this wire ....it is located in the fuse box ....it has a piece of shrink tubing on the end.
It comes out in the trunk in the back left side near the left lamp ...it will have some shrink tubing on the end also.

Just put the wire on a fused keyed circuit inside your fuse box.


http://www.hitch-net.com/images/92/docs/tr118568.pdf

PDF document showing exact location of wire.

 

[Dirtydeedz]

I finished my installs in both of my Darts. One good and the other not so good.

The not so good:
I was in a time crunch; and, didn't have time to do it. So, I took the car to the local "Car Stereo" shop. I printed pictures and info from this thread because the shop owner told me they had not worked on the new Darts yet. I handed the info and the AMP owners manual to the tech (owner's son) and explained I thought it might help. I was immediately informed that he had been installing his entire life and didn't need the info. I should have just left w/ my car right then and there. He finished the job in a timely matter and it looks clean. But, he didn't wire it in right. There was NO sound coming from the sub? I traced a ground that wasn't supposed to be hooked up. I took, it back to him and asked him to clip it. The AMP/SUB still doesn't sound right; but, my daughter had to go. So, I don't have the final story. A. Either he didn't get the polarity right. or, B. Using the 3" R/L speakers off the back dash SUCKS.

The Good:
On my second Dart I wired the JL AMP off the factory Sub straight into the High Level Inputs. I wired it Mono(+ from factory sub to R+ on Amp and - from Factory sub to L- on Amp).

I touched the wires I installed from the factory sub (See Pic below) to a AA battery instead of taping the wires to the battery and trying to touch the speaker terminals. Anyway, I hope you get the point. The SUB sounds GREAT!! Gain on 25% and Base Boost on 25%.

I also used the Trailer Wire trick posted by DartBB Thank you very much!!

Pssst there is a spare wire in the fuse box ....it is used to activate trailer light modules ....if you dont have a hitch.

Here's a pic of the fuse box. After removing the heat shrink, I had to add the "Blue" wire for enough length to get to the "Hot" that was key activated. By the way, This lead is super easy to tie into to. Just open up a couple of aluminum crimps, insert wire, re-crimp w/ needle nose pliers and sauder(not necessary).

This pic is the trailer wire in the trunk by the L tail light. EzzzPezzze

A note on running through the hole behind the break pedal. Once you uncover the hole and poke a hole through it. Realize, that was NOT the grommet( there is a soft spongy tape on the inside, the grommet is another 1" - 2"s deeper on the outside firewall). You need a fairly long, sharp pointed tool, (I used my test light) and I still ended up pushing the grommet out of the fire wall w/ my "coat hanger" fishing wire. It was cold outside and I didn't go looking for it. Here is a blurry Pic of my power wire coming through the firewall and a couple more pics showing how I ran it through the channel. The power cable was easy to shove down the channels.

Next was the Ground Wire. Pretty straight forward. I used the middle seat mount. See Pics below:

 

[Dirtydeedz]

The Final install looks clean and sounds great.

I can even use the Factory EQ to turn the SUB up and down!!

Thanks for all the info and input. Now I just need get the other Dart back to fix it.

 

[Dirtydeedz]

I finished my installs in both of my Darts. One good and the other not so good.

The not so good:
A. Either he didn't get the polarity right. or, B. Using the 3" R/L speakers off the back dash SUCKS.

The R/L 3"ers on the back dash seem to have been ran through a high pass xover and don't have much bass signal at all. I tested everything and wiring to the sub on the back dash is the only way to go for a 9 speaker Alpine factory system. The bass is incredible when wired this way. However, there is no stereo signal to pass through to another amp for possible future upgrades.

Thanks again for this thread. It really helped me out.

 

[Zeprider]

Its great to see folks getting their audio up to par. Glad this thread could help.

 

[jjizhere]

THANK YOU so much for taking the time with photos to share this info. I just spent 2 hrs taking the door panel off, tieing into the door speaker, blah blah blah, had wires showing where I didn't want them because I'm afraid of working too close to the airbags.. ANYWAY. Just went and opened up the wire harness like in your pic, found my speaker wires and doing it the right, clean way!! How did you get to the fuse box? I can see it, but once again there is an airbag thingy in front of it and I'm not going to try to move it.
thanks again, - JJ

 

[jjizhere]

I know the 12v that sits in front of the shifter is a keyed 12V source, but I can't figure a way to get to it. Post if you've found anything, thanks

 

[jjizhere]

Found a GREAT place in the fire wall to run the 12V battery / 12V switch wire.... Follow your hood latch cable, it goes to a small rubber plug. I stuck a cote hanger through it and it comes out right under the fuse box (under the hood). I also found an un-used fuse slot underneath the hood that is only active when the key is "on" so that will be my 12v switch wire.

 

[jjizhere]

Got a question... my 8" powered bazooka has low level and high level inputs. We know we don't have rca's so instead of installing a converter I am just going to hook up the low level inputs into the front speaker wires. Does anyone think this will be a problem? Will the wattage that goes to the front speaker be fed back into the amp and possibly cause problems? Should I go get a converter? Thanks - JJ

 

[Zeprider]

Got a question... my 8" powered bazooka has low level and high level inputs. We know we don't have rca's so instead of installing a converter I am just going to hook up the low level inputs into the front speaker wires. Does anyone think this will be a problem? Will the wattage that goes to the front speaker be fed back into the amp and possibly cause problems? Should I go get a converter? Thanks - JJ

The Dart's speaker outputs are High Level.

 

[elementaldragon]

any chance for pics of both the grommet you mentioned to run wires through, and the fuse location?

 

[jjizhere]

Here are the pics of my 12v battery and 12v switch wire run through the plug that the hood latch cable runs through.

 

[Marshmallowtwin]

Found a GREAT place in the fire wall to run the 12V battery / 12V switch wire.... Follow your hood latch cable, it goes to a small rubber plug. I stuck a cote hanger through it and it comes out right under the fuse box (under the hood). I also found an un-used fuse slot underneath the hood that is only active when the key is "on" so that will be my 12v switch wire.

I used the 12v in the armrest. Pry off the back and it's right there.

 

[penuch]

Tap your speakers with an inline high output converter and install your favorite components.

Zep, just wanted to check, I plan on getting the same Sub that you have used in this write up, do you still need the line out converter with this kind of sub?

 

[Zeprider]

Zep, just wanted to check, I plan on getting the same Sub that you have used in this write up, do you still need the line out converter with this kind of sub?

No converter needed. The sub you speak of handles high speaker line input.

 

[KYRGYZ]

No converter needed. The sub you speak of handles high speaker line input.

where is the part 2 ??????????????

 

[Zeprider]

where is the part 2 ??????????????

Honestly KYRGYZ, I don't believe that I can produce a part deux with the material that I have. I've run through the footage. What was supposed to be there is not there.