[RedDragon]

@Zeprider thanks for the answer hopefully I'm not in the ladder

 

[Redrocket]

Hey I cannot locate the gromet u r referring to I would appreciate it if u took a pic of it??

 

[biggestjohn]

Hey I cannot locate the gromet u r referring to I would appreciate it if u took a pic of it??

http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/dodge-dart-electronics/7933-how-i-ran-amp-power-cable-my-dart.html

 

[Redrocket]

Damn I was trying to put the power wire thru that one today and I couldn't I taped a wire hanger to it and tried shoving it in but couldn't and than was gonna stick a screw driver threw to create a hole first but nothing :/ so you just stuck the wire all by its self thru it?? Appreciate everything u can tell me been trying to install this fer like a month I want my bass....I never messed around with new cars and all that bs.. @biggestjohn

 

[Zeprider]

Hey I cannot locate the gromet u r referring to I would appreciate it if u took a pic of it??

The access hole is directly behind the brake pedal on the firewall. From what I understand it is ONLY on the 2.0l and maybe the 2.4l models. You can't miss it. If you can't see it, you don't have it. You may need to find another means or drill.

I used my own rubber grommet to replace the factory one.

 

[Redrocket]

Ya I got the 1.4T I tried shoving it thru the hood release gromet but wire is to thick...waiting on biggestjohn to reply cuz I think that's the route ima have to take the passenger side has a lot more space to work with just can't seem to put it thru

 

[bodelicious]

zeprider can u swap out the 8" Alpine sub with a 10" Alpine sub? I just so happen to have a 10" alpine sub that is still in the box and was for the 350z,But its for sale so im wanting to use the sub in the dart if possible.

 

[biggestjohn]

Actually I ran the 4ga. cable thru the grommet on the drivers side, under the master cylinder. I fed it from under the dash then pulled it thru from under the hood. You can't just shove it thru the grommet with the other wires because there are bands around the wires that keep the opening on the grommet closed. I had to cut a small opening in the grommet and shove the wire thru it. I used a phillips screwdriver to make the "cut" then forced the wire thru it. Keep the cut small so that the grommet will seal the opening after you install the wire. Better yet, put some rtv around the opening after you install the wire.

If you do it on the drivers side you MUST use multiple cable ties to secure it under the dash so that there is no possible way that it can get to the brake/gas pedals!!!

I did it on the drivers side because I had already fed multiple wires down the passenger side, and there wasn't enough room for the 4ga wire.

Same method for the passenger side.


Sorry Zeprider, I didn't mean to hi-jack your thread.

 

[Zeprider]

@biggestjohn No problem. Valuable information and good answer.
@bodelicious Honestly I'm not sure and I doubt it considering that the opening in the rear deck is sized for an 8" free air. Of course, you CAN do anything you want with the right tools and motivation. :wink:

 

[StSimeon]

I just wish the damn head unit didn't use AGC. It would be nice to find a device or amp that would compensate for it.

My biggest complaint with the stock unit. It is very annoying.

 

[Zeprider]

My biggest complaint with the stock unit. It is very annoying.

It doesn't make any sense to have a head unit so integral to the vehicle and handicap it so that expansion or improvement by the owner; something extremely common, is all but the most frustrating experience.

 

[StSimeon]

It doesn't make any sense to have a head unit so integral to the vehicle and handicap it so that expansion or improvement by the owner; something extremely common, is all but the most frustrating experience.

I'm hoping it is a function in the amplifier. I know it isn't likely but there's always hope

 

[iBattaglia]

great write up ill wait for my dash kit so i can hook up my own deck and run the wires from the deck cheers though

 

[Zeprider]

The easiest solution that I can think of, as well as the cheapest, is to amp everything up. Since the head unit clips audio at high volumes, usually from level 25+ installing some hi powered speakers and hot amps so that volume levels around 10-12 are more than adequate to initiate tinnitus and thus circumventing the AGC. This is the route I am going to try. An EQ still may be required.

 

[dangrab]

Thanks for taking the time to post this, it made my life much easier! I needed to find the easiest way to tie into the door speakers and your pictures made it a snap.

 

[StSimeon]

I turned off the speed adjusted volume and now the attenuation is still there but far less pronounced.

 

[dangrab]

How did you attaching your level controller. I tried 3M double sided tape (the really thick one) but its so hot here in GA it falls off constantly. I really don't want to drill holes in the dash on a brand new car, though I have done it before. Ideas?

 

[Zeprider]

Yeah buddy. No tape, even 3M VHB, will work with hot climates. I did the nasty and drilled the holes. In all actuality, the holes/screws are so small that it's insignificant to worry about. Just carefully place your bit, press the bit into the plastic before you begin drilling, this way you get a good bite, and drill slowly. Once the holes are drilled, debur and your work will be clean.

Gently screw the bracket into place so that you do not strip the holes and voila, you have a clean "SOLID" mounting.

Believe me, I am super anal about these things, but mounting it properly is so much nicer.

 

[dangrab]

Yeah buddy. No tape, even 3M VHB, will work with hot climates. I did the nasty and drilled the holes. In all actuality, the holes/screws are so small that it's insignificant to worry about. Just carefully place your bit, press the bit into the plastic before you begin drilling, this way you get a good bite, and drill slowly. Once the holes are drilled, debur and your work will be clean.

Gently screw the bracket into place so that you do not strip the holes and voila, you have a clean "SOLID" mounting.

Believe me, I am super anal about these things, but mounting it properly is so much nicer.

I agree totally, its way better to just do it right. It just made me cringe to think about it doing it to a car I have had 8 days! Thanks again for the great post, made the whole experience so much easier. I do have to say, this car has the most intuitive design for add-on that I have worked on.

 

[Dirtydeedz]

Thanks in advance for taking time to read my post and respond!

Hey all, this is my first post here. Seems Like a great commuity. Wow! this thread is a God send. Awesome post Zep However, I still have some questions.

First what I'm doing: I am picking up two(2) 2013 Darts for my college kids tomorrow. :crazy: opped out: I know already; but, the end of year pricing w/ factory incentives and low interest actually made buying NEW instead of Used a no brainer. . The Stickers for each are linked in my profile. The cars are the same Dart Rallye STX's w/ the 9 Speaker Alpine System w/ sub. Yes, the speakers are there! Much like the OP, I already have a JL Powered Sub Enclosure for each car(I have to pull them out of their existing clunkers first). These enclosures have high inputs.

Amp Specs:

Controls: The JL Audio JX250/1 amplifier provides the following audio controls:

Input Sensitivity: The Input Sensitivity Control is used to match your source unit's output voltage to the input stage of the amplifier for maximum clean output.
Low-Level Input Range: 200mV-4V (RMS)
High-Level Input Range: 2V-10V (RMS)
Low Pass Crossover: The JL Audio JX250/1 monoblock amplifier is equipped with a 12dB/octave Butterworth low-pass filter with variable frequency selection from 50 to 200Hz.
Bass Boost: The amplifier is equipped with a variable 0 to +12dB, 45Hz Bass Boost.
Remote Level Control: The JX250/1 is equipped with a RJ-25 connection for an optional wired Remote Level Control (136RBC1, sold separately) that allows volume level adjustment of the amplifier from the front of your vehicle.
Connections: The JL Audio JX250/1 amplifier provides the following connections:

Power/Ground/Turn-On Terminals: The monoblock amplifier features set-screw terminals for the power, ground, and remote turn-on connections.
Power and Ground: The JL Audio amplifier's set-screw Power and Ground connections are designed to accept 8 to 4 AWG power wire. A 2.5mm hex-wrench is supplied for making connections.
Remote Turn-On: The JL Audio JX series amplifier's set-screw turn-on lead will accept 18 to 8 AWG wire. The same 2.5mm hex-wrench is supplied for making connection.
Speaker Output Terminals: The JL Audio JX250/1 features four set-screw speaker terminals for an easy parallel subwoofer connection. The monoblock amplifier's four set-screw speaker terminals will accept 16 to 8 AWG speaker wire. A 2.5mm hex-wrench is supplied for making connections. The amplifier's speaker terminals are wired to the loaded woofer from the factory.
Preamp Inputs: The monoblock amplifier features one set of stereo RCA input jacks. The amplifier features a dedicated Input Sensitivity gain control for these inputs. These controls are designed to match the input sensitivity of the JX250/1 to the specific signal source that is feeding it. The amplifier's low-level input can be set between 200mV-4V RMS.
Speaker Level Inputs: The JL Audio JX250/1 also accepts speaker level signals, including those from factory systems (without the need for a line-output converter), via the supplied 10" speaker-level harness. The amplifier's high-level input can be set between 2V-10V RMS.
Preamp Outputs: The JX250/1 incorporates a pass-through preamp output section, so that additional amplifiers can easily be connected to the same signal(s) feeding the monoblock amplifier. These preamp output signals are buffered to prevent noise and are always preamp level, regardless of the level of signals feeding the amplifier's inputs.

It's been back in the late 80's since I have wired a Speaker Level AMP. I never cared for them. On the back dash there is the Alpine Factory Sub which is a dual voice coil, I assume that means 2 ohms to each coil, and 2 3" mids. Can I use any of these amplified leads? I was thinking maybe a positive from one coil on the sub and a negative from the other coil to get back to 4 Ohms. Honestly, I don't know and just need some guidance.