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@alpinegreenneon maybe you can do a writeup like you did with your door locks to get a rearview mirror that works with the tab at the bottom. I found the autodim mirror to be a real pain in the ass.
@Bullfrog, so you want to go from a premium mirror to a base mirror? Perhaps you should tell the OP what exactly you don't like about the auto dimming mirror before he goes to the trouble of doing the swap?
Going from premium to base may work, but there is still the question about the WT/BR LIN bus wire that the premium mirror connector does not have. You could try it, all you need is a base mirror and the connector pigtail. You should be able to re-pin or splice in the correct connector. I have no idea why the premium mirror connector does not have the WT/BR wire which the base mirror connector does have. If there are two WT/BR wires that go into one terminal cavity, it may just be a harness splice that happens somewhere else in the premium mirror harness. If so, the swap should work. Both mirrors use the same wires for the microphone.
 

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@Bullfrog, so you want to go from a premium mirror to a base mirror? Perhaps you should tell the OP what exactly you don't like about the auto dimming mirror before he goes to the trouble of doing the swap?
Going from premium to base may work, but there is still the question about the WT/BR LIN bus wire that the premium mirror connector does not have. You could try it, all you need is a base mirror and the connector pigtail. You should be able to re-pin or splice in the correct connector. I have no idea why the premium mirror connector does not have the WT/BR wire which the base mirror connector does have. If there are two WT/BR wires that go into one terminal cavity, it may just be a harness splice that happens somewhere else in the premium mirror harness. If so, the swap should work. Both mirrors use the same wires for the microphone.
Honestly it sounds to me like it's possible either the LIN bus wires were originally there for future upgrades to the mirror system with more integrated sensors which never happened, or it could have been that it was an engineering oversight that the first prototypes required it in the mirror assembly but then later on down the line of development, they found out they didn't need it but already had the vendors set up and paid for the original pigtail and either way just never changed it.
 

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I much prefer the manual mirror and have no desire to do the swap. I find that the auto mirrors act slowly in my Avenger and my Ram, and they don't go dark enough. My wife, however, has some bizarre aversion to manual mirrors. This is her car, and she lets me do stuff to her. So...auto mirror, here I come.
 

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Got the new connector on the mirror. Doesn't work. ? The mics seem fine, but the mirror doesn't dim. Had a thought that maybe I need to have the dealer update a sales code to let the car know it has an automatic mirror now, but that doesn't make sense when you consider it as a stand-alone unit. I do have 12v and a good ground at the connector in the car. Not giving up yet. I could have poor pin engagement or something like that in the new connector. It's late. I'll wrestle with it tomorrow.

In the mean time, what is LIN? I'm more of a '70s full size Jeep guy. This crap new cars are full of is for the birds. I know that schematic you shared doesn't show anything for LIN in the premium harness. There is, however, an unaccounted-for wire on the premium mirror. I pinned that to line up with the LIN wire in the car. Could that be why the mirror isn't dimming? Should I move that wire to an unused socket?
 

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@Bullfrog, so you want to go from a premium mirror to a base mirror? Perhaps you should tell the OP what exactly you don't like about the auto dimming mirror before he goes to the trouble of doing the swap?
Going from premium to base may work, but there is still the question about the WT/BR LIN bus wire that the premium mirror connector does not have. You could try it, all you need is a base mirror and the connector pigtail. You should be able to re-pin or splice in the correct connector. I have no idea why the premium mirror connector does not have the WT/BR wire which the base mirror connector does have. If there are two WT/BR wires that go into one terminal cavity, it may just be a harness splice that happens somewhere else in the premium mirror harness. If so, the swap should work. Both mirrors use the same wires for the microphone.
Yeah i would like a manual mirror but i forgot that the hands free is tied into it and i do use that. Sometimes on super sunny days it sucks getting some chrome asshole behind you and blinding you with glare in the mirror. so just flip it to night time mode and problem solved. I guess it was just a pipe dream that simpler is better.
 

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In the mean time, what is LIN?
Good question. It's the WT/BR wire in the headliner harness. No other color should be connected to it. There is a empty wire cavity (#7) in the premium connector. You can try putting the BR/WT wire terminal in there. The schematic shows that the premium mirror does have a BR/WT wire in cavity #7 but the pinout doesn't.

Organ Diagram 3d modeling


Text Line Diagram Parallel Font



Try googling "LIN bus". The FSM only mentions LIN here:

08 - Electrical / 8E - Electronic Control Modules / COMMUNICATION / Description

DESCRIPTION

The primary on-board communication network between microcontroller-based electronic control modules in this vehicle is the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus system. A data bus network minimizes redundant wiring connections; and, at the same time, reduces wire harness complexity, sensor current loads and controller hardware by allowing each sensing device to be connected to only one module (also referred to as a node). Each node reads, then broadcasts its sensor data over the bus for use by all other nodes requiring that data. Each node ignores the messages on the bus that it cannot use.

The CAN bus is a two-wire multiplex system. Multiplexing is any system that enables the transmission of multiple messages with modules over a single channel or circuit. In addition to the CAN bus network, certain nodes may also be equipped with a Local Interface Network (LIN) data bus. The LIN data bus is a single wire low-speed (9.6 Kbps) serial link bus used to provide direct communication between a LIN master module and certain switch or sensor inputs.

There are two separate CAN bus systems used in the vehicle. They are designated: the CAN-C, and the CAN-IHS. The CAN-C and CAN-IHS systems provide on-board communication between all of the nodes that are connected to them. The CAN-C system provides near real-time communication (500 Kbps) between more critical nodes; and the CAN-IHS system provides (125 Kbps) for less critical nodes.

The added speed of the CAN data bus is many times faster than previous data bus systems. This added speed facilitates the addition of more electronic control modules or nodes and the potential for more new electronic features in the vehicle.

The Body Control Module (BCM) or Central Gateway Module (CGW) is connected to the CAN-IHS and CAN-C buses. This gateway physically and electrically isolates the CAN buses from each other and coordinates the bi-directional transfer of messages between them. The BCM is located under the left hand side of the instrument panel.
 

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I went back to the site that I copied the pinouts from. I cutoff the #7 on the premium mirror pinout when I copied the image. I apologize. Insert that BR/WT wire into cavity #7. This is what the pinout should look like:

Text Diagram Line Font Technology

Text Font Line Organism Document
 

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Ok... I'm trying to follow, and I cannot thank you enough for the guidance, but I'm think I'm getting confused because you're speaking as though I'm repinning the car. I'm not. I'm putting a base connector on a premium mirror.

Of note, in the donor base mirror I sacrificed last night, it only had pins in 6,7,8, and 9; just the mics. Nothing else...which leaves me curious why the base connector in the car is wired for more since the only mirror it supports doesn't had anything else. Probably just to enable me to do this!

In any case, all I did was mark which color wires on the premium mirror went into which cavities in the premium connector. Then I correlated those colors to the same circut numbers in the base connector and repinned. The only wire in the premium connector I couldn't account for was the one which was accidentally cut off the schematic. I treated that as LIN, and we now know that was correct. I'm gonna back-probe the mirror side of my new connection to make sure the mirror is getting 12v and has a good ground. I know I have 12v and a good ground on the connector in the car. With that, given that the mics work, and given that the dimming function should stand on its own as long as it has 12v...I wonder if maybe I bought a bad mirror. Unless maybe it actually uses the LIN to process dimming commands? If that's the case, I would need the sales code updated.

Is anyone with an auto dimming mirror willing to remove it, apply 12v and a ground directly to the mirror, and test it to verify is functions correctly as a stand-alone unit?
 

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Ok... I'm trying to follow, and I cannot thank you enough for the guidance, but I'm think I'm getting confused because you're speaking as though I'm repinning the car. I'm not. I'm putting a base connector on a premium mirror.

In any case, all I did was mark which color wires on the premium mirror went into which cavities in the premium connector. Then I correlated those colors to the same circut numbers in the base connector and repinned. The only wire in the premium connector I couldn't account for was the one which was accidentally cut off the schematic. I treated that as LIN, and we now know that was correct. I'm gonna back-probe the mirror side of my new connection to make sure the mirror is getting 12v and has a good ground. I know I have 12v and a good ground on the connector in the car. With that, given that the mics work, and given that the dimming function should stand on its own as long as it has 12v...I wonder if maybe I bought a bad mirror. Unless maybe it actually uses the LIN to process dimming commands? If that's the case, I would need the sales code updated.

Is anyone with an auto dimming mirror willing to remove it, apply 12v and a ground directly to the mirror, and test it to verify is functions correctly as a stand-alone unit?
I can't promise when and I don't have my equipment anymore so I'll have to scour for a solution, but I would be willing to do it.
 

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The LIN WT/BR wire goes to the BSM. PK/YL and BK are the power and ground. Almost everything in the BCM needs to be configured by running the PROXI. Do you have alfaOBD and the OBDLinkMX so you can do the PROXI? Pretty sure this is what it will take to make it work.
 

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That's all gibberish. And my wires are all different colors than any of the ones in those schematics. I sent pics...you can see... they're all brown with tracers. Nothing is pink (giggety). I am, however, 100% positive I have the mics hooked up right, that I have power hooked up right, that I'm grounded, and that I have the LIN hooked up right. Still no-workie.

What's PROXY? Is that like having the dealer add the sales code? I'm having that done to my Avenger next week because I added a factory Bluetooth module. But I didn't have to have the Avenger flashed when I added the dimming mirror to that. It just plugged in and worked properly as a stand-alone module with 12v.
 

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If you have an android device like a phone or tablet, all you need to do is buy the app at google playstore and then go online and get the OBDLink MX bluetooth adapter. You will then be able to do almost anything the dealer can do by yourself. Save yourself from dealer bending you over to do simple things like a proxy configuration.
http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/dod...ostics-through-obd2-diy-proxy-allignment.html

See what RAM owners are doing:
https://www.ramforum.com/threads/alfaobd.123982/
 
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Wire colors can be all over the place on Darts especially on interior electrical stuff. I see pinout wire colors different than the colors on the schematics. What is important is the position in the connector. Use the pinout images of the connector to determine the cavity numbers and re-pin accordingly.
 

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Wire colors can be all over the place on Darts especially on interior electrical stuff. I see pinout wire colors different than the colors on the schematics. What is important is the position in the connector. Use the pinout images of the connector to determine the cavity numbers and re-pin accordingly.
That's what I did. Feel pretty confident about it. Obviously couldn't have done it without your help. Danke!
 

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All the advertisements for obdlink mx say Ford and gm? Ordered it anyhow.
Hopefully, you ordered the Bluetooth version, not the WiFi version. WiFi is not supported by alfaOBD. The OBDLink MX has it's own software if you want to use it with other vehicles like GM or Ford. It seems to work with everything, even my '95 Neon. Couple of uses and it will pay for itself. So far, I disabled TPMS (which required a PROXI) and programmed keys for the Darts with alfaOBD but I am sure down the road it will help with a lot of other things.
 
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Yep, bought the Bluetooth version and download the app. I'm actually pretty excited. If I can get this mirror working and also active uconnect in the Avenger, it will have paid for itself already. I would also like to replace the cluster in the Avenger. I think this setup will allow me to do that and set the odometer, so...more savings. I also have a Ram I'd like to do stuff to. Game changer baby!
 
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