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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone, I’m brand new to the forum and am looking to get my first dart. I’m looking at a few in my area and I can get a fully loaded GT with the alpine stereo, moon roof, leather seats, 8.4” screen, back up camera, and it’s an automatic with remote start for $10,900 (that’s what they have it listed for anyways 😉<img src="http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/images/smilies/wink.png" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />). It is a 2014 with 89k miles on it. The other option is an SXT with around 60k miles and it is $9,000. Lastly I also have the option of getting the SE also a 2014 but it only has 30k miles and is $10,000. Personally I’m leaning towards the GT given all the features (plus it’s header orange which is a plus haha). But I’m curious to see what all of you think is the best option. As a side note this car will not be remaining stock, within the next year or so I hope to have a cold air intake, ram air, new exhaust, rims, interior lighting, and maybe some other things that I’m not sure about yet, just thought I’d add that Incase it changes y’alls opinions. Thanks!
 

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I would stay away from that GT at that Mileage. You dont know whats been done to it and you also dont know if it has issues eating oil which is very common for these!

The SXT sounds pretty decent and if it has a 1.4 turbo you have plenty of options for upgrades so if youre already planning on doing so it may be a good pick.

The SE would probably be the one id go for. At 30K miles thats most likely a lease someone got rid of simply when their lease was over...This car would probably be the most reliable with the 2.slow (sorry) motor which if you want to spend that kind of money you likely wouldnt want it to die on your in a year.

Have you considered looking at other cars in this price range?
 

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The 89K milelage on a 2014 GT doesn't scare me ... but like @Parabolaralus mentioned, some of the 2.4L I-4 Tigershark™ MultiAir II® equipped Darts have experienced oil consumption issues.

If you go for the GT, definitely get the maintenance & repair history for the vehicle (i.e., an AutoCheck or CARFAX report) before pulling the trigger.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I would stay away from that GT at that Mileage. You dont know whats been done to it and you also dont know if it has issues eating oil which is very common for these!

The SXT sounds pretty decent and if it has a 1.4 turbo you have plenty of options for upgrades so if youre already planning on doing so it may be a good pick.

The SE would probably be the one id go for. At 30K miles thats most likely a lease someone got rid of simply when their lease was over...This car would probably be the most reliable with the 2.slow (sorry) motor which if you want to spend that kind of money you likely wouldnt want it to die on your in a year.

Have you considered looking at other cars in this price range?
I have heard that but I got the car fax on it and it has been well maintained and doesn’t seem to be sucking up oil from what I’ve read. Yeah those were the points I was thinking too but I really do like the features of the GT haha. I personally haven’t test driven the SXT or the SE yet just the GT is the smaller engine size noticeable?

As for other cars I’ve looked at a few, looked to see if I could get an older charger but for the price I don’t love the options but it’s still in the maybe area. I also looked at the Mazda3 but really just don’t like it as much as the dart. Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The 89K milelage on a 2014 GT doesn't scare me ... but like @Parabolaralus mentioned, some of the 2.4L I-4 Tigershark™️ MultiAir II®️ equipped Darts have experienced oil consumption issues.

If you go for the GT, definitely get the maintenance & repair history for the vehicle (i.e., an AutoCheck or CARFAX report) before pulling the trigger.
Personally I feel the same as you I didn’t really think the 89k that big of an issue but that’s why I came here just to make sure. Last vehicle was a Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi that had 189k on it till some lady pulled through a stop sign and totaled it haha so I’m used to higher miles. I did get the car fax on the GT and it’s been taken care of and I didn’t see any issues. Only thing was a “minor damage” tag put on the report but it was not due to an accident so who knows what that was. Seems to all look great though. I will add that all the cars look really nice, even with the higher miles I don’t see too much difference in wear on the interior from the lower mileage SE to the GT. Exterior of the GT has some very small chips (like the tip of a pin size) but that’s kind of to be expected from an older car.
 

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Personally I feel the same as you I didn’t really think the 89k that big of an issue but that’s why I came here just to make sure. Last vehicle was a Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi that had 189k on it till some lady pulled through a stop sign and totaled it haha so I’m used to higher miles. I did get the car fax on the GT and it’s been taken care of and I didn’t see any issues. Only thing was a “minor damage” tag put on the report but it was not due to an accident so who knows what that was. Seems to all look great though. I will add that all the cars look really nice, even with the higher miles I don’t see too much difference in wear on the interior from the lower mileage SE to the GT. Exterior of the GT has some very small chips (like the tip of a pin size) but that’s kind of to be expected from an older car.
It sounds like you already made up your mind!

The factory alpine system sounds pretty decent by itself and if you want to replace the speakers because they're cheap paper its pretty easy to do and one of those fun upgrades. I found metra adapters which were supposed to fit, but spliced them in the end since they didnt... The 3.5s were the first to go in mine at around 5-10k miles and i guess was probably my first "mod".
A 12 inch sub rocks in this car...forget about the little 8 once you put one of these in! Theres a 12 inch Rockford all in one that i probably would have gotten, but this JBL fully cranked has not given out on me in over 2 years.

Also If it has Yokohama tires ditch those along with your new rims when you eventually get them.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It sounds like you already made up your mind!

The factory alpine system sounds pretty decent by itself and if you want to replace the speakers because they're cheap paper its pretty easy to do and one of those fun upgrades. I found metra adapters which were supposed to fit, but spliced them in the end since they didnt... The 3.5s were the first to go in mine at around 5-10k miles and i guess was probably my first "mod".
A 12 inch sub rocks in this car...forget about the little 8 once you put one of these in! Theres a 12 inch Rockford all in one that i probably would have gotten, but this JBL fully cranked has not given out on me in over 2 years.

Also If it has Yokohama tires ditch those along with your new rims when you eventually get them.
I mean, I’m definitely leaning towards the GT haha. Is there anything else other than the oil consumption issue that some cars have that I should be aware of? I also noticed at idle the car felt like it has some vibration, not a lot and as soon as you tap the gas it goes away. Is that normal for the dart? I’ve never actually owned a car just a truck so I’m still learning what it normal and such haha.

The stereo will definitely be something to upgrade down the road!! And will do about the tires, for rims I’m looking at fitment industries right now but still am undecided. Only thing that I have the brand nailed down on at the moment is the Aura OPT7 interior LED strip lights haha.
 

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I mean, I’m definitely leaning towards the GT haha. Is there anything else other than the oil consumption issue that some cars have that I should be aware of? I also noticed at idle the car felt like it has some vibration, not a lot and as soon as you tap the gas it goes away. Is that normal for the dart? I’ve never actually owned a car just a truck so I’m still learning what it normal and such haha.

The stereo will definitely be something to upgrade down the road!! And will do about the tires, for rims I’m looking at fitment industries right now but still am undecided. Only thing that I have the brand nailed down on at the moment is the Aura OPT7 interior LED strip lights haha.
The vibration at idle in gear is probably bad motor mounts...typical actually! Mine are currently bad at 52k so if they have not been replaced at all at 89k id imagine the vibration is pretty effing awesome!
Maybe check to see if the thermostat has been replaced as well. It seems like quite a few people including myself have run into this thing failing rather early. I cant think of anything else right now, but might be spacing it...

Those Aura's look pretty nice. My wife bought me this $20 generic one size fits all interior kit a while back and it works until you disconnect it in which it goes into rainbow rave mode and you have to set it back to where you had it with your phone...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The vibration at idle in gear is probably bad motor mounts...typical actually! Mine are currently bad at 52k so if they have not been replaced at all at 89k id imagine the vibration is pretty effing awesome!
Maybe check to see if the thermostat has been replaced as well. It seems like quite a few people including myself have run into this thing failing rather early. I cant think of anything else right now, but might be spacing it...

Those Aura's look pretty nice. My wife bought me this $20 generic one size fits all interior kit a while back and it works until you disconnect it in which it goes into rainbow rave mode and you have to set it back to where you had it with your phone...
Oh really? I wasn’t aware that could be a problem! What does it run to replace the mounts? I don’t believe the thermostat has been replaced but it works really well from what I saw.

And yeah I’m pretty pumped for those! And that’s a good price, even if you have to reset it $20 ain’t bad.
 

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I think someone on here was recently quoted $550 per mount? Edit: At a dealer!!!!
 

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That is crazy!! Is there a way to tell if that is an issue? I mean as soon as you touch the gas pedal it smoothes out and is totally fine.
What you described is basically the way you'll know if they are bad, which is the vibration you feel as it's idling. It'll get worse with accessories running like the A/C and especially the rear defogger. And it goes away when you give it some gas. I've heard it's a bigger issue with the manual transmissions, causing shifting problems.

I got my used 14' GT last year, with around 45,000 miles on it. And it shook/vibrated from the 1st test drive. I also test drove a 15' Raylle across town which had about 20,000 miles on it, and it did it as well.

I'm planning on replacing all 3 mounts sometime in the coming months. Doesn't seem to be too big of a project. I believe there is a thread here somewhere that goes into depth on changing them out. If not, I know there are some how-to's on YouTube.

The oil consumption issue isn't something that would be on maintenance records FYI, unless of course someone tried to fix it. This is something you would need to check on your own periodically, and add oil if needed. So it may or may not do it, just something to check on when looking it over.

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Discussion Starter #13
What you described is basically the way you'll know if they are bad, which is the vibration you feel as it's idling. It'll get worse with accessories running like the A/C and especially the rear defogger. And it goes away when you give it some gas. I've heard it's a bigger issue with the manual transmissions, causing shifting problems.

I got my used 14' GT last year, with around 45,000 miles on it. And it shook/vibrated from the 1st test drive. I also test drove a 15' Raylle across town which had about 20,000 miles on it, and it did it as well.

I'm planning on replacing all 3 mounts sometime in the coming months. Doesn't seem to be too big of a project. I believe there is a thread here somewhere that goes into depth on changing them out. If not, I know there are some how-to's on YouTube.

The oil consumption issue isn't something that would be on maintenance records FYI, unless of course someone tried to fix it. This is something you would need to check on your own periodically, and add oil if needed. So it may or may not do it, just something to check on when looking it over.

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Oh okay I gotcha, at-least it’s not too big of a project if I do have to do it. And yeah I understand that, I just meant it seemed to have regular oil changes and be well kept so hopefully there’s be less of a chance of issues in general.
 

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What you described is basically the way you'll know if they are bad, which is the vibration you feel as it's idling. It'll get worse with accessories running like the A/C and especially the rear defogger. And it goes away when you give it some gas. I've heard it's a bigger issue with the manual transmissions, causing shifting problems.

I got my used 14' GT last year, with around 45,000 miles on it. And it shook/vibrated from the 1st test drive. I also test drove a 15' Raylle across town which had about 20,000 miles on it, and it did it as well.

I'm planning on replacing all 3 mounts sometime in the coming months. Doesn't seem to be too big of a project. I believe there is a thread here somewhere that goes into depth on changing them out. If not, I know there are some how-to's on YouTube.

The oil consumption issue isn't something that would be on maintenance records FYI, unless of course someone tried to fix it. This is something you would need to check on your own periodically, and add oil if needed. So it may or may not do it, just something to check on when looking it over.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Oh okay I gotcha, at-least it’s not too big of a project if I do have to do it. And yeah I understand that, I just meant it seemed to have regular oil changes and be well kept so hopefully there’s be less of a chance of issues in general.
Use the bad mounts as leverage for getting a better deal even if you plan on fixing it yourself - don't tell them that.

They can fix it, drop the price, or lose a sale. Leave it at that.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Use the bad mounts as leverage for getting a better deal even if you plan on fixing it yourself - don't tell them that.

They can fix it, drop the price, or lose a sale. Leave it at that.
That’s a good point, wonder how much they’d take off. I’d like to be 10k out the door with fees and tax and everything included.
 

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That’s a good point, wonder how much they’d take off. I’d like to be 10k out the door with fees and tax and everything included.
If they want/need to move the car they could do that but some motor mounts alone isn't gonna drop it that much otd
 

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That’s a good point, wonder how much they’d take off. I’d like to be 10k out the door with fees and tax and everything included.
If they want/need to move the car they could do that but some motor mounts alone isn't gonna drop it that much otd
This really depends. If it's a new car dealer any excuse to get these off the lot is a good one. You don't make money by having a used car sit for years or even months when a new model which offers more profit could be in that same exact space.

I doubt he'll get below 10k after fees but any drop in price would be welcome.
 

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Only reason I was thinking I’d have a chance is that it’s a new car Hyundai dealership and the car has been there for close to a month now. Could’ve been there for longer, but they posted it on cargurus almost a month ago.
 

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The engine will always vibrate even with brand new mounts. The way to check if the mounts are bad is while driving. If you get on/off the gas pedal it will buck. The amount of bucking will show how bad the mounts are. Aftermarket mounts are $350 for all 3. The most common failure point is the rear mount which is $75 by itself. Takes less than an hour to remove/replace the rear mount.
 

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The engine will always vibrate even with brand new mounts. The way to check if the mounts are bad is while driving. If you get on/off the gas pedal it will buck. The amount of bucking will show how bad the mounts are. Aftermarket mounts are $350 for all 3. The most common failure point is the rear mount which is $75 by itself. Takes less than an hour to remove/replace the rear mount.
To be clear, the rear mount is "bad" by design. My OEM mount isn't damaged, just floppy. You can bend it almost 45 degrees if you use both hands, and it's pretty obvious that it's meant to do that. I can only comment on the 1.4T, but it would seem that FCA went with a design that reduced low RPM vibrations. When I replaced mine, I noticed right away that sitting in park at idle the vibrations are significantly increased. However, vibrations I was experiencing at speed (which I had attributed to tire balance or wear) immediately disappeared.
 
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