Does anynone knows the head bolts torque secuense and specs for a 2013 dart gt 2.4?
Dariel
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Place two pea size dots of Mopar® engine sealant RTV or equivalent (1) on the cylinder block as shown.
Position the new cylinder head gasket on the engine block with the part number facing up. Ensure gasket is seated over the locating dowels in the block.
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Route the knock sensor wiring harness between the coolant transfer tube and the engine block. Insert the harness retainer into the holder.
Position the cylinder head onto the engine block.
NOTE: Make sure the foam pad is not out of position. Inspect the positioning of the pad from below to make sure that no part of the pad is between the cylinder head and the engine block surface.
The front two cylinder head bolts do not have captured washers. The washers must be installed with the bevel edge (1) up towards the bolt head.
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Install washers (1) for the front two cylinder head bolts with the beveled edge facing up.
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NOTE: DOHC shown, SOHC same sequence.
NOTE: Before installing the cylinder head bolts, lubricate the threads with clean engine oil.
Install the ten cylinder head bolts finger tight.
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Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the sequence shown, following this 4 step torque plus angle method. Tighten according to the following torque values:
Step 1: All to 30 N·m (22 ft. lbs.)
Step 2: All to 73 N·m (54 ft. lbs.)
Step 3: All again to 73 N·m (54 ft. lbs.)
Step 4: All an additional 90° Turn Do not use a torque wrench for this step.
Position the new cylinder head gasket on the engine block with the part number facing up. Ensure gasket is seated over the locating dowels in the block.
Route the knock sensor wiring harness between the coolant transfer tube and the engine block. Insert the harness retainer into the holder.
Position the cylinder head onto the engine block.
NOTE: Make sure the foam pad is not out of position. Inspect the positioning of the pad from below to make sure that no part of the pad is between the cylinder head and the engine block surface.
The front two cylinder head bolts do not have captured washers. The washers must be installed with the bevel edge (1) up towards the bolt head.
Install washers (1) for the front two cylinder head bolts with the beveled edge facing up.
NOTE: DOHC shown, SOHC same sequence.
NOTE: Before installing the cylinder head bolts, lubricate the threads with clean engine oil.
Install the ten cylinder head bolts finger tight.
Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the sequence shown, following this 4 step torque plus angle method. Tighten according to the following torque values:
Step 1: All to 30 N·m (22 ft. lbs.)
Step 2: All to 73 N·m (54 ft. lbs.)
Step 3: All again to 73 N·m (54 ft. lbs.)
Step 4: All an additional 90° Turn Do not use a torque wrench for this step.
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Not knowing if your engine is on an engine stand or still in the engine bay, I did not include the part that suggested bolting the intake manifold in place before setting the head on the engine block. If the bottom end is still in the engine bay, hopefully it's not to late to mention this. if you need those instructions, let me know. The instructions to just remove the intake manifold without removing the head are quite involved and say removal is from underneath.
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If the dowel/locating pins were removed, install two NEW variable valve actuation assembly locating pins (1).
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If removed, install the rocker arms (1) (Refer to 09 - Engine/Cylinder Head/ROCKER ARM, Valve - Installation) .
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CAUTION:
Do not invert the variable valve actuation assembly when it is removed from the engine. Oil will drain from the assembly and excessive engine cranking will be required to refill the assembly and start the engine.
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Rotate the spring compressors (2) counterclockwise until fully seated.
Install a new gasket.
NOTE: To assist in the proper placement of the assembly, it is recommended to apply NEW/CLEAN MS-272 white grease or similar like Vaseline ® onto the tips of the plungers to hold them in the retracted position. This will help to locate the assembly correctly while preventing the plunger tips from interfering with the valve stem tips. Use just enough to hold the plungers retracted.
Set the VVAA into position onto the two dowels.
NOTE: It is very important that the plungers of the VVAA are centered over the valve stem tips. When properly aligned, the VVAA will set down onto the cylinder head evenly and will not have a tendency to wobble when set onto the head.
NOTE: The VVAA should sit relatively flush to cylinder head with no more then a 1 to 2 mm gap between the mating surfaces. An excessive gap indicates the VVAA is not seated properly.
Visually inspect the alignment of the VVAA plungers.
This is a visual indication of an IMPROPERLY aligned VVAA. The centerline of the plunger (1) and the centerline of the valvestem (2) are misaligned.
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This is a visual indication of a PROPERLY aligned VVAA. The centerline (1) of both the plunger and the valve stem are aligned.
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Install the six accessible bolts. Hand tighten the VVAA retaining bolts.
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Remove the spring compressor and tighten the ten bolts in three steps following the sequence shown:
Step 1: All to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.).
Step 2: All to 22 N·m (16 ft. lbs.).
Step 3: All again to 22 N·m (16 ft. lbs.).
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Connect and lock the four variable valve timing actuator electrical connectors.
Connect and lock the oil temperature sensor electrical connector.
Engage the oil temperature electrical connector to the bracket.
Install the cylinder head cover(Refer to 09 - Engine/Cylinder Head/COVER(S) , Cylinder Head - Installation).
NOTE: If the VVAA is being replaced (new part), it is recommended that the VVAA be primed with NEW/CLEAN oil after installation. This will limit the amount of time it takes for the assembly to fill while cranking the engine. If the cylinder head cover is installed the service port can be accessed through the opening at the rear of the cover (1).
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Using an oil can with a CLEAN soft tip or similar tool like a NEW plastic syringe, force CLEAN, UNUSED oil into the service port (1). Continue to inject oil until oil flows continuously from the bleed port (2) or until a maximum of 200 mL has been injected.
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If removed, install the rocker arms (1) (Refer to 09 - Engine/Cylinder Head/ROCKER ARM, Valve - Installation) .
CAUTION:
Do not invert the variable valve actuation assembly when it is removed from the engine. Oil will drain from the assembly and excessive engine cranking will be required to refill the assembly and start the engine.
Rotate the spring compressors (2) counterclockwise until fully seated.
Install a new gasket.
NOTE: To assist in the proper placement of the assembly, it is recommended to apply NEW/CLEAN MS-272 white grease or similar like Vaseline ® onto the tips of the plungers to hold them in the retracted position. This will help to locate the assembly correctly while preventing the plunger tips from interfering with the valve stem tips. Use just enough to hold the plungers retracted.
Set the VVAA into position onto the two dowels.
NOTE: It is very important that the plungers of the VVAA are centered over the valve stem tips. When properly aligned, the VVAA will set down onto the cylinder head evenly and will not have a tendency to wobble when set onto the head.
NOTE: The VVAA should sit relatively flush to cylinder head with no more then a 1 to 2 mm gap between the mating surfaces. An excessive gap indicates the VVAA is not seated properly.
Visually inspect the alignment of the VVAA plungers.
This is a visual indication of an IMPROPERLY aligned VVAA. The centerline of the plunger (1) and the centerline of the valvestem (2) are misaligned.
This is a visual indication of a PROPERLY aligned VVAA. The centerline (1) of both the plunger and the valve stem are aligned.
Install the six accessible bolts. Hand tighten the VVAA retaining bolts.
Remove the spring compressor and tighten the ten bolts in three steps following the sequence shown:
Step 1: All to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.).
Step 2: All to 22 N·m (16 ft. lbs.).
Step 3: All again to 22 N·m (16 ft. lbs.).
Connect and lock the four variable valve timing actuator electrical connectors.
Connect and lock the oil temperature sensor electrical connector.
Engage the oil temperature electrical connector to the bracket.
Install the cylinder head cover(Refer to 09 - Engine/Cylinder Head/COVER(S) , Cylinder Head - Installation).
NOTE: If the VVAA is being replaced (new part), it is recommended that the VVAA be primed with NEW/CLEAN oil after installation. This will limit the amount of time it takes for the assembly to fill while cranking the engine. If the cylinder head cover is installed the service port can be accessed through the opening at the rear of the cover (1).
Using an oil can with a CLEAN soft tip or similar tool like a NEW plastic syringe, force CLEAN, UNUSED oil into the service port (1). Continue to inject oil until oil flows continuously from the bleed port (2) or until a maximum of 200 mL has been injected.
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NOTE:
Do not use an impact wrench to tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt. Damage to the camshaft dowel pin and camshaft may occur.
Install the chain onto the sprocket (2), insert the bolt (1).
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Using a wrench to hold the camshaft flats (1) tighten the sprocket bolt to 10 N·m + 65° (88 in. lbs. + 65°).
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Align the timing chain onto the crank sprocket mark (1) using the painted link (2) as a guide.
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Align the timing chain onto the camshaft sprocket mark (2) using the painted link (1) as a guide.
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Reset the cam chain tensioner (Refer to 09 - Engine/Valve Timing - Standard Procedure) .
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NOTE:
Keep the slack in the timing chain on the tensioner side.
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Install timing chain tensioner (6) and tighten bolts to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.).
Remove the pin (1/8 in. drill bit) from the timing chain tensioner.
Verify that the valve timing is correct (Refer to 09 - Engine/Valve Timing - Standard Procedure)
NOTE:
When using RTV, the sealing surfaces must be clean and free from grease and oil.
NOTE:
When using RTV, parts should be assembled in 10 minutes and tighten to final torque within 45 minutes.
Install a new crankshaft seal if necessary.
Clean all sealing surfaces (Refer to 09 - Engine - Standard Procedure) .
Apply Mopar® engine sealant RTV (or equivalent) as shown at the cylinder head to block parting line (1 and 2).
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Apply Mopar® engine sealant RTV (or equivalent) as shown at the ladder frame to block parting line (1 and 2).
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Apply 2 mm bead of Mopar® engine sealant RTV (or equivalent) to the engine block and cylinder head to timing cover mating surfaces as shown. Be sure to apply a bead at the two center bolt lands that are between the timing chain.
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Install timing chain cover (1) upwards from under the vehicle.
Install the timing chain cover retaining bolts. Tighten six M6 bolts (2) to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.), two M8 bolts (3) and one studbolt (1) to 26 N·m (19 ft. lbs.) and five M10 bolts (4) to 65 N·m (48 ft. lbs.).
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Install the right engine mount (Refer to 09 - Engine/Engine Mounting/INSULATOR, Engine Mount, Right/Installation)
Install the coolant reservoir bottle. Tighten bolt to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.).
Install the water pump pulley (5) and tighten three bolts (6) to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.).
Install the crankshaft damper (4) (Refer to 09 - Engine/Engine Block/DAMPER, Vibration - Installation) .
Install the accessory drive belt tensioner (2).
Install the accessory drive belt idler pulley (3). Tighten bolt to 25 N·m (18 ft. lbs.).
Install the accessory drive belt (1) (Refer to 07 - Cooling/Accessory Drive/BELT, Serpentine - Installation) .
Reseal the oil pan (Refer to 09 - Engine/Lubrication/PAN, Oil/Installation) .
Install the right lower splash shield (Refer to 23 - Body/Exterior/SHIELD, Splash - Installation) .
Do not use an impact wrench to tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt. Damage to the camshaft dowel pin and camshaft may occur.
Install the chain onto the sprocket (2), insert the bolt (1).
Using a wrench to hold the camshaft flats (1) tighten the sprocket bolt to 10 N·m + 65° (88 in. lbs. + 65°).
Align the timing chain onto the crank sprocket mark (1) using the painted link (2) as a guide.
Align the timing chain onto the camshaft sprocket mark (2) using the painted link (1) as a guide.
Reset the cam chain tensioner (Refer to 09 - Engine/Valve Timing - Standard Procedure) .
NOTE:
Keep the slack in the timing chain on the tensioner side.
Install timing chain tensioner (6) and tighten bolts to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.).
Remove the pin (1/8 in. drill bit) from the timing chain tensioner.
Verify that the valve timing is correct (Refer to 09 - Engine/Valve Timing - Standard Procedure)
NOTE:
When using RTV, the sealing surfaces must be clean and free from grease and oil.
NOTE:
When using RTV, parts should be assembled in 10 minutes and tighten to final torque within 45 minutes.
Install a new crankshaft seal if necessary.
Clean all sealing surfaces (Refer to 09 - Engine - Standard Procedure) .
Apply Mopar® engine sealant RTV (or equivalent) as shown at the cylinder head to block parting line (1 and 2).
Apply Mopar® engine sealant RTV (or equivalent) as shown at the ladder frame to block parting line (1 and 2).
Apply 2 mm bead of Mopar® engine sealant RTV (or equivalent) to the engine block and cylinder head to timing cover mating surfaces as shown. Be sure to apply a bead at the two center bolt lands that are between the timing chain.
Install timing chain cover (1) upwards from under the vehicle.
Install the timing chain cover retaining bolts. Tighten six M6 bolts (2) to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.), two M8 bolts (3) and one studbolt (1) to 26 N·m (19 ft. lbs.) and five M10 bolts (4) to 65 N·m (48 ft. lbs.).
Install the right engine mount (Refer to 09 - Engine/Engine Mounting/INSULATOR, Engine Mount, Right/Installation)
Install the coolant reservoir bottle. Tighten bolt to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.).
Install the water pump pulley (5) and tighten three bolts (6) to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.).
Install the crankshaft damper (4) (Refer to 09 - Engine/Engine Block/DAMPER, Vibration - Installation) .
Install the accessory drive belt tensioner (2).
Install the accessory drive belt idler pulley (3). Tighten bolt to 25 N·m (18 ft. lbs.).
Install the accessory drive belt (1) (Refer to 07 - Cooling/Accessory Drive/BELT, Serpentine - Installation) .
Reseal the oil pan (Refer to 09 - Engine/Lubrication/PAN, Oil/Installation) .
Install the right lower splash shield (Refer to 23 - Body/Exterior/SHIELD, Splash - Installation) .
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Found some more info, something that should have been done before disassembly.
Rotate the crankshaft clockwise (as viewed from the front) to align the timing cover mark (1) with the damper notch (2) to place the number one cylinder piston at top-dead-center on the compression stroke.
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Verify that the camshaft timing is correct as viewed above. The vertical center line of the camshaft (1) and the horizontal surface of the top of the cylinder head (3) MUST be 90° from each other.
NOTE: The camshaft dowel (2) is slightly visible above the camshaft center bolt and should be at 12 o’clock when set.
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Using a paint pen or equivalent, mark both camshaft sprockets and corresponding chain links (1 and 2) to aid in reassembly.
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Rotate the crankshaft clockwise (as viewed from the front) to align the timing cover mark (1) with the damper notch (2) to place the number one cylinder piston at top-dead-center on the compression stroke.
Verify that the camshaft timing is correct as viewed above. The vertical center line of the camshaft (1) and the horizontal surface of the top of the cylinder head (3) MUST be 90° from each other.
NOTE: The camshaft dowel (2) is slightly visible above the camshaft center bolt and should be at 12 o’clock when set.
Using a paint pen or equivalent, mark both camshaft sprockets and corresponding chain links (1 and 2) to aid in reassembly.
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Found this buried with the 2.0 engine info:
RESETTING CAM CHAIN TENSIONER
The cam chain tensioner used on the 2.0L engine is equipped with a ratchet. The ratchet consists of a pawl (1) and a rack (2). The rack (2) is part of the piston (3) and a ratchet arm (4) is attached to the pawl (1). In use, an internal spring extends the piston (3) from the tensioner body. The pawl (1) will not allow the piston (3) to retract back into the tensioner body. In order to reset the tensioner, the pawl (1) must be disengaged from the rack (2) so that the piston (3) can be pushed back into the tensioner body.
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NOTE:
The hole (2) in the ratchet arm (4) provides an anchor point for a pin (1/8 in. drill bit) that locks the pawl against the rack to hold the piston in the retracted position. But, the holes (2 and 3) will not align when the piston is fully retracted. The piston must be allowed to extend at least "three clicks" from the fully retracted position before the holes will align.
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Use a 1/8 in. drill bit to rotate and hold the ratchet arm (4) counterclockwise to lift the pawl off of the rack.
Push and hold the piston (1) into the tensioner body.
NOTE:
If the engine front cover is installed, use the timing chain to push and hold the piston into the tensioner body by slightly rotating the intake camshaft (1) clockwise.
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Continue holding the piston into the tensioner body and release the ratchet arm.
Allow the piston (1) to extend slightly until the hole in the ratchet arm (3) aligns with the hole in the tensioner body. When the holes are aligned, insert the 1/8 in. drill bit (2) to lock the pawl against the rack which will hold the piston in the retracted position.
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More info on the multiair brick, stuff that should have been done during disassembly. The special tool described is crazy expensive. (Glad that both of my Darts have the 2.0 DOHC)
Unlock and disconnect the four variable valve timing actuator electrical connectors.
Remove four bolts from the VVAA block.
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NOTE: The bolts need to be removed prior to the installation of the compressor tool due to the tool obstructs access to these bolts once the tool is installed.
NOTE: Be sure to follow the sequence shown above when removing the bolts.
Using special tool 10259A (1) , loosen the spring compressors (2) to fit over the valve and spring assemblies. Adjust the tool to align with the 2.4L indicators (3).
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Install the Compressor, MultiAir® Spring 10259B spring compressor
Rotate the spring compressors counterclockwise until the springs are fully seated.
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CAUTION:
Do not invert the variable valve actuation assembly when it is removed from the engine. Oil will drain from the assembly and excessive engine cranking will be required to refill the assembly and start the engine.
Remove the remaining five bolts from the VVAA.
NOTE: Be sure to follow the sequence shown above when removing the bolts.
Remove the variable valve timing actuation assembly, with the spring compressor attached, from the camshaft bearing housing.
Set the assembly (1) onto two blocks of wood (2) to store during repairs.
NOTE: Be sure to store the assembly in the upright position AT ALL TIMES to prevent oil related issues within the assembly.
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NOTE: There are two locating pins/dowels that properly position the VVAA. Be careful that both dowels remain installed in cylinder head after removing the VVAA. If a dowel comes loose, locate the missing dowel and discard it. A new dowel will need to be used upon installation. DO NOT REUSE A DOWEL THAT HAS BEEN REMOVED FROM THE CYLINDER HEAD.
Remove and discard the variable valve actuation assembly gasket.
RESETTING CAM CHAIN TENSIONER
The cam chain tensioner used on the 2.0L engine is equipped with a ratchet. The ratchet consists of a pawl (1) and a rack (2). The rack (2) is part of the piston (3) and a ratchet arm (4) is attached to the pawl (1). In use, an internal spring extends the piston (3) from the tensioner body. The pawl (1) will not allow the piston (3) to retract back into the tensioner body. In order to reset the tensioner, the pawl (1) must be disengaged from the rack (2) so that the piston (3) can be pushed back into the tensioner body.
NOTE:
The hole (2) in the ratchet arm (4) provides an anchor point for a pin (1/8 in. drill bit) that locks the pawl against the rack to hold the piston in the retracted position. But, the holes (2 and 3) will not align when the piston is fully retracted. The piston must be allowed to extend at least "three clicks" from the fully retracted position before the holes will align.
Use a 1/8 in. drill bit to rotate and hold the ratchet arm (4) counterclockwise to lift the pawl off of the rack.
Push and hold the piston (1) into the tensioner body.
NOTE:
If the engine front cover is installed, use the timing chain to push and hold the piston into the tensioner body by slightly rotating the intake camshaft (1) clockwise.
Continue holding the piston into the tensioner body and release the ratchet arm.
Allow the piston (1) to extend slightly until the hole in the ratchet arm (3) aligns with the hole in the tensioner body. When the holes are aligned, insert the 1/8 in. drill bit (2) to lock the pawl against the rack which will hold the piston in the retracted position.
More info on the multiair brick, stuff that should have been done during disassembly. The special tool described is crazy expensive. (Glad that both of my Darts have the 2.0 DOHC)
Unlock and disconnect the four variable valve timing actuator electrical connectors.
Remove four bolts from the VVAA block.
NOTE: The bolts need to be removed prior to the installation of the compressor tool due to the tool obstructs access to these bolts once the tool is installed.
NOTE: Be sure to follow the sequence shown above when removing the bolts.
Using special tool 10259A (1) , loosen the spring compressors (2) to fit over the valve and spring assemblies. Adjust the tool to align with the 2.4L indicators (3).
Install the Compressor, MultiAir® Spring 10259B spring compressor
Rotate the spring compressors counterclockwise until the springs are fully seated.
CAUTION:
Do not invert the variable valve actuation assembly when it is removed from the engine. Oil will drain from the assembly and excessive engine cranking will be required to refill the assembly and start the engine.
Remove the remaining five bolts from the VVAA.
NOTE: Be sure to follow the sequence shown above when removing the bolts.
Remove the variable valve timing actuation assembly, with the spring compressor attached, from the camshaft bearing housing.
Set the assembly (1) onto two blocks of wood (2) to store during repairs.
NOTE: Be sure to store the assembly in the upright position AT ALL TIMES to prevent oil related issues within the assembly.
NOTE: There are two locating pins/dowels that properly position the VVAA. Be careful that both dowels remain installed in cylinder head after removing the VVAA. If a dowel comes loose, locate the missing dowel and discard it. A new dowel will need to be used upon installation. DO NOT REUSE A DOWEL THAT HAS BEEN REMOVED FROM THE CYLINDER HEAD.
Remove and discard the variable valve actuation assembly gasket.
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Did you prime the vvaa? I have never done this myself, but perhaps that is why they want you to keep the vvaa upright. I would use the same oil that you use in the engine.
"Using an oil can with a CLEAN soft tip or similar tool like a NEW plastic syringe, force CLEAN, UNUSED oil into the service port (1). Continue to inject oil until oil flows continuously from the bleed port (2) or until a maximum of 200 mL has been injected."
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"Using an oil can with a CLEAN soft tip or similar tool like a NEW plastic syringe, force CLEAN, UNUSED oil into the service port (1). Continue to inject oil until oil flows continuously from the bleed port (2) or until a maximum of 200 mL has been injected."
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There was mention of a gasket for the vvaa. Did you use one? Also the head gasket has a right side up orientation, hopefully you got it right and the oil feed to the head isn't blocked. Did you have oil pressure before you disassembled? 200 ml is about 7 0unces of oil. Like I said, I have not been inside these engines, I only have access to the info through the Wisconsin public library site.
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CHECKING VVT OIL PRESSURE
This test can be used to help diagnose VVT faults.
Disconnect and remove oil pressure sensor (1).
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CAUTION:
Threads in block are 1/8”-28 British Standard Pipe (BSP). Do not install a National Pipe Thread (NPT) threaded adapter, this could crack the cylinder block.
Install an 1/8-28 BSP male to 1/8-27 female threaded adapter (2).
Install oil pressure gauge (1).
Start engine and record oil pressure.
CAUTION:
If oil pressure is 0 at idle, do not perform the 3000 RPM test
If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. Check for pressure relief valve stuck open or a clogged oil pick-up screen.
Remove oil pan and inspect for debris (Refer to 09 - Engine/Lubrication/PAN, Oil - Removal) .
Remove oil pressure relief valve (Refer to 09 - Engine/Lubrication/VALVE, Oil Pressure Relief - Removal) and inspect, if damaged replace pressure relief valve.
If pressure relief valve is ok, replace balance shaft module assembly (Refer to 09 - Engine/Lubrication/PUMP, Engine Oil - Removal) .
After test is complete, remove test gauge (1) and fitting (2).
Install oil pressure sensor and electrical connector.
Remove oil pan (Refer to 09 - Engine/Lubrication/PAN, Oil - Removal)
Remove pressure regulating valve cap (2).
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Remove pressure regulating valve spring (3) and valve (4).
When removing and installing the Balance Shaft/Oil Pump assembly in the vehicle, it is not necessary to align the plated links on the drive chain as long as the reference marks are created during the procedure.
Remove the oil pan (Refer to 09 - Engine/Lubrication/PAN, Oil/Removal)
Rotate the engine clockwise until the balance shaft/oil pump drive gear and the housing indicator are aligned.
NOTE: IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT THE CRANKSHAFT STAYS STATIONARY DURING THE FOLLOWING STEPS. DO NOT MOVE THE CRANKSHAFT UNTIL THE INSTALLATION PROCEDURE IS COMPLETED.
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Clean the balance shaft/oil pump assembly drive gear with Mopar® brake cleaner or similar.
NOTE: Make sure the gear is clear of any oil to allow for marking.
If the balance shaft/oil pump assembly is being reused, mark the oil pump chain and the sprocket (1) to the module body (2) for reassembly.
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Install one air-conditioning compressor bracket bolt into the left forward corner thread boss.
NOTE:
The bolt will provide a sturdy point to secure a tie strap to hold the tensioner in the compressed position.
Position a plastic tie strap (3) around the chain, tensioner (4) and bolt (2) that was previously installed.
Push the chain, guide and tensioner (1) to the compressed position.
Tighten the tie strap to hold the components together.
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NOTE:
The tighter the strap, the more room for removal and installation.
Remove the balance shaft/oil pump assembly mounting bolts.
Remove assembly from the engine by tilting the rear of the balance shaft/oil pump assembly downward while lifting the drive gear out of the chain links.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION:
There are two different Balance Shaft Module (BSM) to engine block bolts used. 180 mm bolts with a lock-patch on the threads or 185 mm bolts without lock-patch. Do not reuse the 180 mm bolts. Always discard 180 mm bolts after removing. Failure to replace these bolts can result in engine damage. The 185 mm bolts are reusable. Install the same length bolts that were removed and use either four new 180 mm bolts or four 185 mm bolts.
The 185 mm (7.283 in.) length bolts must be checked for stretching. Check the bolts with a straight edge for necking (2). If the bolts are necked down, they must be replaced.
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Clean the balance shaft/oil pump assembly mounting holes with Mopar® brake parts cleaner.
Align the marks on the balance shaft/oil pump assembly and drive sprocket.
With the rear of the balance shaft/oil pump assembly on a slight downward angle, position the gear into the chain links. Make sure the paint marks are aligned.
Pivot balance shaft/oil pump assembly assembly upwards and position on ladder frame.
Start balance shaft/oil pump assembly mounting bolts by hand.
NOTE:
Use a three step procedure when tightening balance shaft/oil pump assembly mounting bolts. For new 180 mm bolts, go to step 7. For 185 mm bolts, go to step 8.
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Tighten new 180 mm balance shaft/oil pump assembly mounting bolts as follows:
Tighten to 15 N·m (11 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
Tighten to 33 N·m (24 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
Rotate bolts an additional 90° in the sequence shown.
Tighten 185 mm balance shaft/oil pump assembly mounting bolts as follows:
Tighten to 15 N·m (11 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
Tighten to 29 N·m (22 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
Rotate bolts an additional 90° in the sequence shown.
Double check the alignment marks to ensure the gear (1) and balance shaft/oil pump assembly indicator (2) is aligned.
Remove the tie strap (3).
Remove the bracket bolt (2).
Inspect that the tensioner (1) has fully extended and applied pressure to the guide and chain (4).
Install the oil pan (Refer to 09 - Engine/Lubrication/PAN, Oil/Installation) .
Fill engine with oil.
Start engine and check for leaks.
This test can be used to help diagnose VVT faults.
Disconnect and remove oil pressure sensor (1).
CAUTION:
Threads in block are 1/8”-28 British Standard Pipe (BSP). Do not install a National Pipe Thread (NPT) threaded adapter, this could crack the cylinder block.
Install an 1/8-28 BSP male to 1/8-27 female threaded adapter (2).
Install oil pressure gauge (1).
Start engine and record oil pressure.
CAUTION:
If oil pressure is 0 at idle, do not perform the 3000 RPM test
If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. Check for pressure relief valve stuck open or a clogged oil pick-up screen.
Remove oil pan and inspect for debris (Refer to 09 - Engine/Lubrication/PAN, Oil - Removal) .
Remove oil pressure relief valve (Refer to 09 - Engine/Lubrication/VALVE, Oil Pressure Relief - Removal) and inspect, if damaged replace pressure relief valve.
If pressure relief valve is ok, replace balance shaft module assembly (Refer to 09 - Engine/Lubrication/PUMP, Engine Oil - Removal) .
After test is complete, remove test gauge (1) and fitting (2).
Install oil pressure sensor and electrical connector.
Remove oil pan (Refer to 09 - Engine/Lubrication/PAN, Oil - Removal)
Remove pressure regulating valve cap (2).
Remove pressure regulating valve spring (3) and valve (4).
When removing and installing the Balance Shaft/Oil Pump assembly in the vehicle, it is not necessary to align the plated links on the drive chain as long as the reference marks are created during the procedure.
Remove the oil pan (Refer to 09 - Engine/Lubrication/PAN, Oil/Removal)
Rotate the engine clockwise until the balance shaft/oil pump drive gear and the housing indicator are aligned.
NOTE: IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT THE CRANKSHAFT STAYS STATIONARY DURING THE FOLLOWING STEPS. DO NOT MOVE THE CRANKSHAFT UNTIL THE INSTALLATION PROCEDURE IS COMPLETED.
Clean the balance shaft/oil pump assembly drive gear with Mopar® brake cleaner or similar.
NOTE: Make sure the gear is clear of any oil to allow for marking.
If the balance shaft/oil pump assembly is being reused, mark the oil pump chain and the sprocket (1) to the module body (2) for reassembly.
Install one air-conditioning compressor bracket bolt into the left forward corner thread boss.
NOTE:
The bolt will provide a sturdy point to secure a tie strap to hold the tensioner in the compressed position.
Position a plastic tie strap (3) around the chain, tensioner (4) and bolt (2) that was previously installed.
Push the chain, guide and tensioner (1) to the compressed position.
Tighten the tie strap to hold the components together.
NOTE:
The tighter the strap, the more room for removal and installation.
Remove the balance shaft/oil pump assembly mounting bolts.
Remove assembly from the engine by tilting the rear of the balance shaft/oil pump assembly downward while lifting the drive gear out of the chain links.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION:
There are two different Balance Shaft Module (BSM) to engine block bolts used. 180 mm bolts with a lock-patch on the threads or 185 mm bolts without lock-patch. Do not reuse the 180 mm bolts. Always discard 180 mm bolts after removing. Failure to replace these bolts can result in engine damage. The 185 mm bolts are reusable. Install the same length bolts that were removed and use either four new 180 mm bolts or four 185 mm bolts.
The 185 mm (7.283 in.) length bolts must be checked for stretching. Check the bolts with a straight edge for necking (2). If the bolts are necked down, they must be replaced.
Clean the balance shaft/oil pump assembly mounting holes with Mopar® brake parts cleaner.
Align the marks on the balance shaft/oil pump assembly and drive sprocket.
With the rear of the balance shaft/oil pump assembly on a slight downward angle, position the gear into the chain links. Make sure the paint marks are aligned.
Pivot balance shaft/oil pump assembly assembly upwards and position on ladder frame.
Start balance shaft/oil pump assembly mounting bolts by hand.
NOTE:
Use a three step procedure when tightening balance shaft/oil pump assembly mounting bolts. For new 180 mm bolts, go to step 7. For 185 mm bolts, go to step 8.
Tighten new 180 mm balance shaft/oil pump assembly mounting bolts as follows:
Tighten to 15 N·m (11 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
Tighten to 33 N·m (24 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
Rotate bolts an additional 90° in the sequence shown.
Tighten 185 mm balance shaft/oil pump assembly mounting bolts as follows:
Tighten to 15 N·m (11 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
Tighten to 29 N·m (22 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
Rotate bolts an additional 90° in the sequence shown.
Double check the alignment marks to ensure the gear (1) and balance shaft/oil pump assembly indicator (2) is aligned.
Remove the tie strap (3).
Remove the bracket bolt (2).
Inspect that the tensioner (1) has fully extended and applied pressure to the guide and chain (4).
Install the oil pan (Refer to 09 - Engine/Lubrication/PAN, Oil/Installation) .
Fill engine with oil.
Start engine and check for leaks.
Joined
·
9,246 Posts
Glad I could help. You were in uncharted waters my friend. Not too many here would have attempted what you did, let alone finished with success. Most would have run to a dealer. I hope others will benefit from these instructions. If you took pics of your progress, post them. Real pics, not just line drawings would augment these instructions.
Joined
·
9,246 Posts
What exactly do you mean "synchronize"???? If you mean timing, use the search tool. It's been posted.
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