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my oil filters arrived, what a great way to spend the 4th, changing oil!

1) should you drain the oil and then change the filter? or change filter first, then change oll? or does it matter?
2) just checked owners manual in the glove box. no mention anywhere of how you read the dipstick after you put in new oil. ?????
remember when all cars gave you a little diagram that showed the dipstick and low, ok, high?
 

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my oil filters arrived, what a great way to spend the 4th, changing oil!

1) should you drain the oil and then change the filter? or change filter first, then change oll? or does it matter?
2) just checked owners manual in the glove box. no mention anywhere of how you read the dipstick after you put in new oil. ?????
remember when all cars gave you a little diagram that showed the dipstick and low, ok, high?
Remove the oil filter cap before removing the drain plug and replace it after you put the drain plug back in. The idea is the oil will drain out of the filter housing.
 

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Just a quick tip: If you crack open the filter housing slightly and then drain the oil from the pan, it releases the vacuum on the oil filter and drains most of it out through the pan. This eliminates the need for a towel and in my experience keeps a dryer engine bay :)
 

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Just a quick tip: If you crack open the filter housing slightly and then drain the oil from the pan, it releases the vacuum on the oil filter and drains most of it out through the pan. This eliminates the need for a towel and in my experience keeps a dryer engine bay :)
It will take some time to let this drain completely...
 

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2015 Dodge Dart Aero 1.4L oil change.

What year Dart do you have with your 1.4L engine?

I have a 2015 Dodge Dart Aero with a 1.4L engine with turbo. On my car it's clearly marked on the lower engine cover that you opened that this particular cover is for all models except the 1.4L engine and for the 1.4L engine you open the engine cover just to the rear of there.

I've changed my oil twice already. First time I was able to use a friend's pit in his shop, but the second time, {yesterday}, I learned that none of my floor jacks fits under the car to raise it up... and... I can't use my ramps because the car is too low. I guess I'm going to have to figure out a better way to do it.

For yesterday... just to get it done... I drove over a slight depression and the front end onto the pavement a bit so I had like a small shallow ditch under the car so I was able to slide one of my motorcycle floor jacks under it to raise it up enough to get my floor jack under it so I could raise the car for me to get under it.

RotaryWingUH1H

I just did the oil change for my 1.4L Dart and figured I'd take some photos for those who would like to try it themselves.

The tools you need:

1. A ratchet with 7mm, 10mm, 13mm, and 27mm socket wrenches, with extenders for the 27mm socket.
2. New oil filter.
3. 4 quarts of 5W40 oil.
4. A method to raise the car (i.e. ramps, jackstands, lifts, etc).
5. A torque wrench (optional, but recommended)

Let's begin.

Step 1. Run the engine until the oil is at normal temperature.

Step 2. Shut off the engine and pop the hood.

Step 3. With the 10mm socket, remove the two screws holding the engine cover (see circled items below) and remove the cover. It will resist a little as there is a ball joint towards the back of the cover acting as a third support.
View attachment 13479

Step 4. On the left side of the engine bay (reference inset photo), find the oil filter housing, circled in red. Place an oil absorbent cloth around the base of the housing and remove it with the 27mm socket. Set it aside for later.
View attachment 13480

Step 5. Raise and support the car.

Step 6. Crawl under the car and open the access door marked "Oil Drain Plug". Use the 7mm socket to remove the screw.
View attachment 13481
View attachment 13482

Step 7. I don't have a good picture for this one, but right inside the access door you will find the drain plug about where the red arrow points. Remove it with the 13mm socket, taking care to place a drain pan under the path of the oil (the drain plug is horizontal, so the oil may shoot backwards at first until enough is drained to drip straight down).
View attachment 13483

Step 8. Once the oil is drained (it will continue to drip for a bit), reinstall the drain plug and torque to 27 N-m. If you don't have a torque wrench, hand-tighten it and then give it a fraction of a turn with the ratchet. The goal is a snug fit without being tight; overtightening the drain plug could strip the threads.

Step 9. Close the oil drain plug cover and reinstall the screw with the 7mm ratchet.

Step 10. Lower the car.

Step 11. Remove the old filter and ring seal from the oil filter housing. Lightly lubricate the new ring seal in clean engine oil, then install the new seal and filter in the housing.

Step 12. Install the housing back onto the engine. Tighten with the 27mm socket to a torque of 25 N-m.

Step 13. Fill the engine with new oil. If some oil spills onto the engine, clean it up as best as you can with an oil absorbent cloth to minimize the smell of burning oil when the engine gets up to temperature.

Step 14. Clear the oil warning message in the following manner:
A. Turn the ignition to the RUN position (if keyless, hold the start button WITHOUT pressing any foot
pedal). DO NOT START THE ENGINE.
B. In the space of 10 seconds, fully press the gas pedal three times (gas all the way down, release,
repeat).
C. Turn off the car.

Why do this now? You'll start the engine shortly, and if you did it right the oil warning message will not display when you do so. If it still comes on, simply repeat the procedure until it doesn't.

What if you're doing the oil change on your own intervals and not by when the computer says? You should still do this procedure to reset the oil life monitor, otherwise the car will not know you did an oil change and will continue calculating the life of the oil you just changed out. Which means the warning message may come on at some point in the future when your oil doesn't need to be changed.

Will this be done for me if I take it to a shop? Depends. A dealer should do it if you brought it to them with the oil warning message on. A chain place like Jiffy Lube or an independent shop may not know how to do this procedure. If you brought it to them with the oil warning on and you get the car back without the oil warning, they did it for you. If you brought it to them on your own without waiting for the computer, or if the warning still displays, do it anyways.

Step 15. Start the engine. Check for warning lights and oil leaks.

Step 16. Shut off the engine. Check the dipstick, make sure the oil is at the correct level.

Step 17. Reinstall the engine cover.

Congratulations, you're done!
 

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@RotaryWingUH1H, "I've changed my oil twice already. First time I was able to use a friend's pit in his shop, but the second time, {yesterday}, I learned that none of my floor jacks fits under the car to raise it up... and... I can't use my ramps because the car is too low. I guess I'm going to have to figure out a better way to do it."

I noticed the floor jacks at the tire dealership when I was there a few months ago: they were VERY low profile. My floor jack isn't. I made a pair of ramps to get my car up a couple of inches. I nailed two scrap 2 x 4s together (2 x 6 would be even better)and cut at approximately 30 degrees. I nailed a short block of wood on the opposite end of the angle cut to stop the car from falling off the end. This gets the car high enough to get my floor jack under the car.
P1010762.jpg
...yes they are 'a couple of years old'
 

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So I know this is a really old post but I need assistance. Just did the oil change in my 1.4l and followed this guide exactly (other than mine no longer has the bottom cover with the access door) on all other vehicles I’ve done oil changes on, Ive had to take the oil cap off while draining it. I didn’t do that this time. (It also doesn’t mention doing that in this post) I pulled the oil filter housing out, jacked it up, removed the drain plug, and drained the oil until it was empty. Put the drain plug back, changed the filter and seal, put the oil filter and housing back in and tightened. Added 4 quarts of castrol edge 5w40 (none of our auto parts stores have much of choices for 5w40 unless it’s for a diesel) then I emptied the oil drain pan into the empty quart containers. Here’s where I have my problem. There’s only 2 quarts of used oil. Was I that low on oil? But the system never issued a warning and it never seemed too low on the dipstick. My dipstick isn’t the flat kind, so I feel like I’m not reading it correctly. But I’m thinking I might have TOO much oil in it if the other 2 quarts didn’t drain out because of me not taking off the oil cap.... ? please help
 
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