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Bump!

Awesome write up, going online to buy oil and filter this week. If anyone has found these on amazon for 1.4T manual, please post the product pages.

How many quarts????

Also, any tricks to catching the horizontal oil stream that shoots straight out? Any sure fire way to fully contain it with a tube or something to redirect the oil to a pan?
 

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@pkgmsu2000 -

My dealer performed the first two (2) oil & filter changes on my 1.4L MultiAir Turbo Dart for FREE !!! ... but I have performed the last five (5) oil changes myself:

Text Font

... using the PENNZOIL® Ultra EURO 5W-40 full synthetic motor oil and MOPAR® #68102241AA oil filter cartridges that I purchased via AMAZON:

Product Motor oil


Land vehicle Vehicle Car Automotive tire Tire

Each of the last five oil changes cost me a total of $39.82 ...

  • Parts: $35.98 [$32.22 (4 qts. 5W-40) - $6.67 (Pennzoil rebate) + $10.43 (filter cartridge)]
  • Shipping: $0.00 (Amazon Prime FREE shipping)
  • Tax: $3.84 (9% sales tax)
  • Labor: $0.00 (I work cheap! :))

If & when I'm no longer able to purchase the PENNZOIL® at such a discounted price, I'll most likely switch to AMSOIL® (perhaps via @m88s22) ... or maybe RED LINE® (since they sponsor several of my friends race cars).
 
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5,303 Posts
@pkgmsu2000 -

My dealer performed the first two (2) oil & filter changes on my 1.4L MultiAir Turbo Dart for FREE !!! ... but I have performed the last five (5) oil changes myself:


... using the PENNZOIL® Ultra EURO 5W-40 full synthetic motor oil and MOPAR® #68102241AA oil filter cartridges that I purchased via AMAZON:


Each of the last five oil changes cost me a total of $39.82 ...

  • Parts: $35.98 [$32.22 (4 qts. 5W-40) - $6.67 (Pennzoil rebate) + $10.43 (filter cartridge)]
  • Shipping: $0.00 (Amazon Prime FREE shipping)
  • Tax: $3.84 (9% sales tax)
  • Labor: $0.00 (I work cheap! :))

If & when I'm no longer able to purchase the PENNZOIL® at such a discounted price, I'll most likely switch to AMSOIL® (perhaps via @m88s22) ... or maybe RED LINE® (since they sponsor several of my friends race cars).
1) love the silver dart, sharp!

2) awesome post, I just bought 6 quarts for $41.28 with free amazon prime

3) i also have 2 free oil changes but the dealer doesn't have this oil and claim that they can't get it for me. My dealer kinda blows

4) where did you get the Ramps and other items needed to lift your car up? Amazon too?
 

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I have a question on Step 1 (seriously!)

I have always read this in owners and how-to manuals but wonder why we need to run the engine prior to changing the oil? My thinking is this: The object is to change the oil to get all the old oil (and crud) out right? So for the past 30 years of changing oil in my driveway I always put the car up on ramps (such that the oil plug slopes down) Friday night. All night long the old oil drips into the oil pan (like it should), in the AM I drain as per your instructions. While it drains I go inside and have my cereal (saving the beer for later in the day!). Then I proceed with your directions. THIS WAY, all the old oil and crud has drained into the pain all night long and is not freshly distributed up into the engine right before I want to get it out of there. I have never felt any ill-effects of doing it this way. Some cars I have driven new to 150,000+ miles with no problems. I don't think it is doing any harm to the engine as when it is first started with the fresh oil, it's as if it was first thing in the morning with the old oil lubrication-wise and it all has to get shot up into the engine at start-up anyway. SO - why start the engine and warm it up BEFORE changing the oil? Forum opinions?

PS: Excellent write-up and pictures though! Wish I had this resource thirty-years ago (pre-internet!)
If you are going to leave it over night to drain to the bottom of the engine, why wouldn't you just pull the drain plug and let it drain into the drain pan over night?
 

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If you are going to leave it over night to drain to the bottom of the engine, why wouldn't you just pull the drain plug and let it drain into the drain pan over night?
Yup, you could but I can't garage mine so it would be in the driveway and I would not sleep good knowing it was not buttoned up out there... :)
 

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I just did the oil change for my 1.4L Dart and figured I'd take some photos for those who would like to try it themselves.

The tools you need:

1. A ratchet with 7mm, 10mm, 13mm, and 27mm socket wrenches, with extenders for the 27mm socket.
2. New oil filter.
3. 4 quarts of 5W40 oil.
4. A method to raise the car (i.e. ramps, jackstands, lifts, etc).
5. A torque wrench (optional, but recommended)

Let's begin.

Step 1. Run the engine until the oil is at normal temperature.

Step 2. Shut off the engine and pop the hood.

Step 3. With the 10mm socket, remove the two screws holding the engine cover (see circled items below) and remove the cover. It will resist a little as there is a ball joint towards the back of the cover acting as a third support.
View attachment 13479

Step 4. On the left side of the engine bay (reference inset photo), find the oil filter housing, circled in red. Place an oil absorbent cloth around the base of the housing and remove it with the 27mm socket. Set it aside for later.
View attachment 13480

Step 5. Raise and support the car.

Step 6. Crawl under the car and open the access door marked "Oil Drain Plug". Use the 7mm socket to remove the screw.
View attachment 13481
View attachment 13482

Step 7. I don't have a good picture for this one, but right inside the access door you will find the drain plug about where the red arrow points. Remove it with the 13mm socket, taking care to place a drain pan under the path of the oil (the drain plug is horizontal, so the oil may shoot backwards at first until enough is drained to drip straight down).
View attachment 13483

Step 8. Once the oil is drained (it will continue to drip for a bit), reinstall the drain plug and torque to 27 N-m. If you don't have a torque wrench, hand-tighten it and then give it a fraction of a turn with the ratchet. The goal is a snug fit without being tight; overtightening the drain plug could strip the threads.

Step 9. Close the oil drain plug cover and reinstall the screw with the 7mm ratchet.

Step 10. Lower the car.

Step 11. Remove the old filter and ring seal from the oil filter housing. Lightly lubricate the new ring seal in clean engine oil, then install the new seal and filter in the housing.

Step 12. Install the housing back onto the engine. Tighten with the 27mm socket to a torque of 25 N-m.

Step 13. Fill the engine with new oil. If some oil spills onto the engine, clean it up as best as you can with an oil absorbent cloth to minimize the smell of burning oil when the engine gets up to temperature.

Step 14. Clear the oil warning message in the following manner:
A. Turn the ignition to the RUN position (if keyless, hold the start button WITHOUT pressing any foot
pedal). DO NOT START THE ENGINE.
B. In the space of 10 seconds, fully press the gas pedal three times (gas all the way down, release,
repeat).
C. Turn off the car.

Why do this now? You'll start the engine shortly, and if you did it right the oil warning message will not display when you do so. If it still comes on, simply repeat the procedure until it doesn't.

What if you're doing the oil change on your own intervals and not by when the computer says? You should still do this procedure to reset the oil life monitor, otherwise the car will not know you did an oil change and will continue calculating the life of the oil you just changed out. Which means the warning message may come on at some point in the future when your oil doesn't need to be changed.

Will this be done for me if I take it to a shop? Depends. A dealer should do it if you brought it to them with the oil warning message on. A chain place like Jiffy Lube or an independent shop may not know how to do this procedure. If you brought it to them with the oil warning on and you get the car back without the oil warning, they did it for you. If you brought it to them on your own without waiting for the computer, or if the warning still displays, do it anyways.

Step 15. Start the engine. Check for warning lights and oil leaks.

Step 16. Shut off the engine. Check the dipstick, make sure the oil is at the correct level.

Step 17. Reinstall the engine cover.

Congratulations, you're done!
Very good instructions. Changed my oil & filter today. In step 6, that looks to be the oil filter door (but not on the 1.4) Vehicle Car Automotive exterior Auto part Subcompact car

I was going to make the comment that you don't need the 7mm socket for the oil change door, but when I looked at the picture of the door it looks like the dealership left that bolt off. :disappointed: Vehicle Car

Yep, be ready when you take out the drain plug: as PelicanHazard says, the oil will shoot out horizontal.
My oil change indicator did not say to change the oil. 7000 miles, the oil was very dirty.
 
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