[Mjf6866]

looking for any write-ups on how to do this on the 1.4 turbo...can i get away with just removing the valve cover and getting at where the seals are or does it require removing rocker arms and stuff...reason I ask is on my old honda, it made you remove the rocker arm assembly and was a little tedious with the tightening sequence putting it back together.

any info or heads ups from anyone that did this themselves before i tear into it would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

 

[alpinegreenneon]

14 - Fuel System / Fuel Delivery, Gas / Standard Procedure

FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE PROCEDURE

WARNING:
The fuel system is under constant pressure even with engine off. Until the fuel pressure has been properly relieved from the system, do not attempt to open the fuel system. Do not smoke or use open flames/sparks when servicing the fuel system. Wear protective clothing and eye protection. Make sure the area in which the vehicle is being serviced is in a well ventilated area.


1.Remove fuel fill cap.

2.Remove lower rear seat cushion (Refer to 23 - Body/Seats/SEAT/Removal) .



3.Remove the fuel pump module cover (1).



4.Disconnect electrical connector (4) form fuel pump module.

5.Start and run engine until it stalls.

6.Attempt to restarting engine a few times until the engine will no longer start.

7.Turn ignition key to OFF position.

8.Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. If equipped with an Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS), disconnect the IBS connector first before disconnecting the negative battery cable.

9.Place a shop towel below and disconnect the fuel line quick-connect fittings at the fuel pump module, (Refer to 14 - Fuel System/Fuel Delivery/FITTING, Quick Connect - Standard Procedure) .


NOTE:
After servicing the fuel system, one or more Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) may have been stored in Powertrain Control Module (PCM) memory due to disconnecting fuel pump module circuit. A diagnostic scan tool must be used to erase a DTC.



(EDIT: Suggested exceptions to the FSM instructions:
It should be possible to remove the bolts and set the supported AC compressor to the side and not have to discharge the refrigerant.
You will want to replace the o-ring for the oil separator.
You obviously will want to replace the spark plug seals.
You can use gumout carb cleaner to remove RTV residue from surfaces instead of isopropyl alcohol.)

09 - Engine, 1.4L I4 16V Turbo / Cylinder Head / COVER(S), Cylinder Head / Removal

REMOVAL

1.Perform the fuel pressure release procedure (Refer to 14 - Fuel System/Fuel Delivery - Standard Procedure) .

2.Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.

3.Recover the refrigerant from the refrigerant system (Refer to 24 - Heating and Air Conditioning/Plumbing - Standard Procedure) .

4.Remove the engine cover (1).



5.Remove the air cleaner body (6) (Refer to 09 - Engine/Air Intake System/BODY, Air Cleaner - Removal) .



6.Disconnect the PCV hose (1) from the intake manifold.



7.Disconnect the vent hose (3) from the oil filler neck.

8.Remove three bolts (2) and remove the oil separator housing (4) from the cylinder head cover.

9.Disconnect the fuel vapor purge hose (3) from the intake manifold.



10.Open the hose retainer (1) and disconnect the fuel line (2) from the fuel rail (Refer to 14 - Fuel System/Fuel Delivery/FITTING, Quick Connect - Standard Procedure) .

11.Unlock and disconnect the IAT/MAP sensor electrical connector (3).



12.Unlock and disconnect the evaporative emissions purge solenoid electrical connector (1).



13.Unlock and disconnect the fuel injector wire harness electrical connector (2).

14.Unlock and disconnect the electrical connector (3) from the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) (4) and disengage the ETC harness from the clip (2) on the throttle body.



CAUTION:
When servicing components near the vacuum pump, avoid contact with the plastic nipple that connects the vacuum pump to the brake booster hose. It is possible to crack the plastic nipple resulting in a brake booster vacuum leak.

15.Disconnect the vacuum line from the vacuum pump (1).

 

[alpinegreenneon]

16.Remove two bolts (2), one nut (3) and reposition the oil separator housing bracket (1).



NOTE:
Number 1 cylinder ignition coil shown, all others similar.

17.Remove the ignition coils (1) (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8I - Ignition Control/COIL, Ignition - Removal) .



18.Remove the bolt (2) and the ground lug from the cylinder head cover.



19.Remove two bolts (3) and reposition the wire harness duct (1).

20.Raise and support the vehicle (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting - Standard Procedure) .

21.Remove the belly pan (Refer to 13 - Frame and Bumpers/Under Body Protection/BELLY PAN - Removal) .



22.Remove two bolts (4) and the right vertical brace (5).



23.Remove two screws (2) from the front wheelhouse splash shield.

24.Remove three screws (1) and the frame splash shield (3)
.
25.Remove the accessory drive belt (4) (Refer to 07 - Cooling/Accessory Drive/BELT, Serpentine - Removal) .



26.Remove the A/C compressor (1) (Refer to 24 - Heating and Air Conditioning/Plumbing/COMPRESSOR, A/C - Removal) .



27.Open the two wire harness retainers (1) and reposition the wire harness.



28.Remove six of the seven intake manifold flange bolts (1).



29.Lower the vehicle.

30.Remove the remaining intake manifold flange bolt (3), the intake manifold support bolt (2) and reposition the intake manifold (1).

 

[alpinegreenneon]

31.Remove and discard the four intake manifold seals (1).



32.Cover the open intake ports to prevent debris from entering the engine.

33.Remove the bolt (3) from the upper timing belt cover (1).



34.Remove twelve bolts (2), the fuel rail blocker (3) and the cylinder head cover (1).



35.Remove and discard the cylinder head cover gasket (1).



36.The spark plug tube seals (2) can be reused if not damaged.

CAUTION:
Do not use oil based liquids, wire brushes, abrasive wheels or metal scrapers to clean the engine gasket surfaces. Use only isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, along with plastic or wooden scrapers. Improper gasket surface preparation may result in engine fluid leakage.

37.Remove all residual sealant (1) from the variable valve actuator assembly, camshaft caps, camshaft housing and cylinder head cover mating surfaces (Refer to 09 - Engine - Standard Procedure)



38.If required, remove the bolt (3), oil filler neck lock (2) and the oil filler neck (1) from the cylinder head cover.



39.The oil filler neck O-ring (1) can be reused if not damaged.





09 - Engine, 1.4L I4 16V Turbo / Cylinder Head / COVER(S), Cylinder Head / Installation

INSTALLATION

1.If required, install a new oil filler neck O-ring (1).

2.If required, install the oil filler neck (1) to the cylinder head cover. Secure the oil filler neck (1) with the oil filler neck lock (2) and bolt (3) tightened to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.).


CAUTION:
When servicing components near the vacuum pump, avoid contact with the plastic nipple that connects the vacuum pump to the brake booster hose. It is possible to crack the plastic nipple resulting in a brake booster vacuum leak.


3.Install the cylinder head cover gasket (1).

4.The spark plug tube seals (2) can be reused if not damaged.

5.Clean the variable valve actuator assembly, camshaft caps, camshaft housing and cylinder head cover mating surfaces with isopropyl alcohol in preparation for sealant application.


CAUTION:
Engine assembly requires the use of a unique sealant that is compatible with engine oil. Using a sealant other than Mopar® Engine Sealant RTV Silicone Rubber Adhesive may result in engine fluid leakage.


CAUTION:
Following the application of Mopar® Engine Sealant RTV Silicone Rubber Adhesive to the gasket surfaces, the components must be assembled within 10 minutes and the attaching fasteners must be tightened to specification within the next 10 minutes. Prolonged exposure to the air prior to assembly may result in engine fluid leakage.


6.Apply a 2 to 3 mm wide bead of Mopar® Engine Sealant RTV Silicone Rubber Adhesive (1) to the six cylinder head cover T-joints as shown.



7.Install the cylinder head cover and fuel rail blocker (1) with twelve bolts. Tighten the twelve bolts in two steps following the sequence shown:
•Step 1: All to 5 N·m (44 in. lbs.).
•Step 2: All to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.).




8.Install the upper timing belt cover (1) with two bolts (2 and 3) tightened to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.).

9.Install four new intake manifold seals (1).

10.Loosely install an intake manifold flange bolt (3) and the support bolt (2) to hold the intake manifold in position.

11.Raise and support the vehicle (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting - Standard Procedure) .

12.Install the remaining six of the seven intake manifold flange bolts (1). Tighten all seven intake manifold flange bolts in the sequence shown to 15 N·m (11 ft. lbs.).



13.Position the wire harness and close the two wire harness retainers (1).

14.Lower the vehicle.

15.Tighten the intake manifold support bolt (2) to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.).

16.Install the A/C compressor (1) (Refer to 24 - Heating and Air Conditioning/Plumbing/COMPRESSOR, A/C - Installation) .

17.Install the accessory drive belt (4) (Refer to 07 - Cooling/Accessory Drive/BELT, Serpentine - Installation) .

18.Install the frame splash shield (3) with three screws (1).

19.Install two screws (2) to the front wheelhouse splash shield.

20.Install the right vertical brace (5) with two bolts (4) tightened to 45 N·m (33 ft. lbs.).

21.Install the belly pan (Refer to 13 - Frame and Bumpers/Under Body Protection/BELLY PAN - Installation) .

22.Install the wiring harness duct (1) to the cylinder head cover with two bolts (3) tightened to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.).

23.Install the ground lug (2) to the cylinder head cover and tighten the bolt (2) to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.).


NOTE:
Number 1 cylinder ignition coil shown, all others similar.


24.Install the ignition coils (1) (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8I - Ignition Control/COIL, Ignition - Installation) .

25.Install the oil separator housing bracket (1) with two bolts (2) and one nut (3). Tighten the three fasteners to 13 N·m (115 in. lbs.).

26.Connect the vacuum line to the vacuum pump (1).

27.Connect and lock the electrical connector (3) to the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) (4) and engage the ETC harness to the clip (2) on the throttle body.

28.Connect and lock the fuel injector wire harness electrical connector (2).

29.Connect and lock the evaporative emissions purge solenoid electrical connector (1).

30.Connect and lock the IAT/MAP sensor electrical connector (3).

31.Connect the fuel vapor purge hose (3) to the intake manifold.

32.Connect the fuel line (2) to the fuel rail and close the hose retainer (1) (Refer to 14 - Fuel System/Fuel Delivery/FITTING, Quick Connect - Standard Procedure) .

33.Install the oil separator housing (4) to the cylinder head cover with three bolts (2) tightened to 13 N·m (115 in. lbs.).

34.Connect the vent hose (3) to the oil filler neck.

35.Connect the PCV hose (1) to the intake manifold.

36.Install the air cleaner body (6) (Refer to 09 - Engine/Air Intake System/BODY, Air Cleaner - Installation) .

37.Evacuate and charge the refrigerant system (Refer to 24 - Heating and Air Conditioning/Plumbing - Standard Procedure) .

38.Install the negative battery cable and tighten nut to 5 N·m (45 in. lbs.).

39.Install the engine cover (1).

40.Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. Check cooling system for correct fluid level (Refer to 07 - Cooling - Standard Procedure)

 

[jsblanch]

Sweet mother of monkeys, that's a whole lot of steps to inspect and replace the spark plug tube seals!

 

[Mjf6866]

holy shit...why is this so involved!?

thanks

 

[Bullfrog]

agreed, seems a bit excessive to just replace seals. @alpinegreenneon did you include more information then needed or is that how its called out in the FSM?

 

[alpinegreenneon]

agreed, seems a bit excessive to just replace seals. @alpinegreenneon did you include more information then needed or is that how its called out in the FSM?

Other than the procedure to depressurize the fuel line which I included, that is what the FSM says for the R & I of the valve cover gasket. A lot of it is small details to make access easier. When replacing a gasket, you don't want to be be fighting stuff that's in the way or not letting the valve cover seat evenly. I do think that one should not have to discharge the AC and just leave the lines connected to the compressor which you can support out of the way. I have done that many times on Neons and even let the compressor hang freely on the lines with no problem. Stuff like the AC that is not in the FSM were my suggestions and noted as an EDIT in bold.
Some part numbers:
68145088AA valve cover gasket
68166329AA spark plug seals
4893446AB PCV separator O-Ring
68166408AA, Gasket-Intake Manifold
82300234AC Mopar Silicone RTV

 

[jsblanch]

agreed, seems a bit excessive to just replace seals. @alpinegreenneon did you include more information then needed or is that how its called out in the FSM?

I think it's because to get the valve cover off, you need to remove some components, and to remove those components, you need to remove other components, and so on, until you reach the ultimate conclusion that you cannot remove the valve cover on the 1.4T Dart without removing the aerodynamic belly pan. This is almost Ford Contour levels of overly clever engineering.

 

[PBMTMD]

It seems someone replaced the valve cover gasket and spark plug seals without a lot of the steps shown above and provided the following write-up. Comments?

http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/dodge-dart-1-4l-multiair-turbo/30836-valve-cover-removal-spark-plug-seal-replacement.html

 

[jsblanch]

agreed, seems a bit excessive to just replace seals. @alpinegreenneon did you include more information then needed or is that how its called out in the FSM?

I think it's because to get the valve cover off, you need to remove some components, and to remove those components, you need to remove other components, and so on, until you reach the ultimate conclusion that you cannot remove the valve cover on the 1.4T Dart without removing the aerodynamic belly pan. This is almost Ford Contour levels of overly clever engineering.

 

[alpinegreenneon]

When you are actually doing the procedure, you may find some things are not in the way. Perhaps, you don't need to remove the intake manifold or some of the other things mentioned. If so, let us know.

 

[Mjf6866]

It seems someone replaced the valve cover gasket and spark plug seals without a lot of the steps shown above and provided the following write-up. Comments?

http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/dodge-dart-1-4l-multiair-turbo/30836-valve-cover-removal-spark-plug-seal-replacement.html

thank you for this...makes it look doable in my driveway at least!

 

[PBMTMD]

thank you for this...makes it look doable in my driveway at least!

I was hoping that @alpinegreenneon (or at least someone that has used this writeup) would comment on this before you do it - it might help to have additional insights to whether this writeup could have unexpected (or unreported) problems. For example, it doesn't mention using the RTV sealant on the valve cover gasket that I know has been mentioned in this and other threads. I'm also curious because I replaced my Oil Separator Box o-ring with the Viton O-ring and still had the burning oil smell after hard braking and/or turns after the engine is warm and noticed oil in my spark plug wells when I last swapped plugs.

 

[PBMTMD]

thank you for this...makes it look doable in my driveway at least!

If you end up doing this, please let us know how it goes and any lessons learned! As I mentioned above, you might want to add the sealant at the points mentioned by AlpineGreenNeon to the procedures mentioned in the link I provided.

 

[jsblanch]

If you end up doing this, please let us know how it goes and any lessons learned! As I mentioned above, you might want to add the sealant at the points mentioned by AlpineGreenNeon to the procedures mentioned in the link I provided.

Yeah, well, you'd better add the RTV sealant where specified, if you don't want the engine to be leaking fluids. It should be pretty obvious where it's needed, though, because you will need to clean off the old RTV sealant before installing new gaskets/seals.

 

[wasaab]

Ill be doing mine next week, along with vacuum pump seal, o rings, and PCV Viton seal. I have had the burning oil smell for a while now at only 42k miles, its stinks so bad I don't drive the car right now until I fix it. I also get a random traction light from time to time which is due to a bad booster check valve 68053596AA which I also ordered and will be replacing at the same time. I ordered all the parts from TascaParts and should be getting them tomorrow. I took a look at everything and this looks very easy to do without going through all the steps the Mopar service manual calls for. I will take pictures and post when I do mine if it helps anyone. I also ordered the Mopar RTV sealant the manual calls for from Amazon for $9 shipped.

 

[wasaab]

Ill be doing mine next week, along with vacuum pump seal, o rings, and PCV Viton seal. I have had the burning oil smell for a while now at only 42k miles, its stinks so bad I don't drive the car right now until I fix it. I also get a random traction light from time to time which is due to a bad booster check valve 68053596AA which I also ordered and will be replacing at the same time. I ordered all the parts from TascaParts and should be getting them tomorrow. I took a look at everything and this looks very easy to do without going through all the steps the Mopar service manual calls for. I will take pictures and post when I do mine if it helps anyone. I also ordered the Mopar RTV sealant the manual calls for from Amazon for $9 shipped.

As promised here is the guide to how I fixed my burning oil smell by replacing the valve cover gasket, spark plug tube seals, and the vacuum booster pump gasket. Here is what you will need to carry out this repair. I bought my parts from Tascaparts.com but any Mopar parts site should had the same items.

You will need Valve cover gasket part# 68145088AA
Engine Valve Cover Washer Seal part# 68166329AA (you will need 4 of them as these are sold individually)
Vacuum pump gasket part# 68140726AC
Mopar RTV sealant from Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/Chrysler-Accessories-4883971AB-Silicone-Adhesive/dp/B007NQJ4NS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1525717756&sr=8-2&keywords=mopar+rtv

Step 1


Step 2


Step3


Step4


Step5


Step6



Step7



Step8



continued on next post...

 

[wasaab]

Step9

Pull the old valve cover gasket out by hand and clean with brake clean on a rag, the new valve cover seal goes in very easily and fits in a channel on the valve cover. You can't mess it up as it only goes on one way, also don't worry about the gasket falling out when putting the cover back in as the channel on the valve cover holds it in rather snug.

Step10



Step11
Put the valve cover back on and torque down accordingly.
Step 1: All to 5 N·m (44 in. lbs.).
Step 2: All to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.).



Step12


I posted too many pictures so it won't let me continue but for the pump you just put the new gasket and reattach the pump back to the head(no sealant is used on this part). Its very simple but if someone needs more direction on this let me know. Re-attach everything in reverse order and you are ready to test it all out. Hope this helps someone as the factory manual makes this process way too complicated!

 

[Mjf6866]

wow, thank you so much for the pictures and writeup! i plan on doing mine soon too...this will help immensely.