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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I think I am ready for round 2 on fixing my darn flashing odometer! I am starting from scratch and gathering all the information I have in hopes someone can perform a Sherlock and put all of the pieces together...

Let's start off with what is going on, and I promise am going to try and keep it short (but detailed)...
I had first noticed that my audio sounded extremely muffled, and upon trying to figure out what was going on, I noticed I had a flashing odometer... Great...
The first step I took was I had purchased AlfaOBD and an OBDLink MX Adapter.
Next thing I did was pulled the codes on my BCM, which are:
B162A - Left Low Beam Control (Circuit current below threshold)
B162E - Right Low Beam Control (Circuit current below threshold)
B2204 - ECU Configuration Mismatch (Not configured)
(pictures attached of all)
Next thing I did was performed a proxy alignment. Well actually I performed about 175,540 of them, but for the sake of it, I am going to start on #1. Performed a proxy alignment to try and fix the B2204 (the code causing the flashing odometer), but it did not seem to change anything.
The next thing I did was try and fix the first 2 codes which are coming from installing LED Headlights onto my car. Thinking these may be the cause of the flashing odometer, I ripped those puppies out and installed my old dull and boring headlights, and then did a Proxy Alignment and BAM! Nothing happened, so I put back in my LEDs.
Next thing I did was more research and came across this post: https://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/94137/dart-software-glitch. Upon checking my Dart, low and behold it was built before July 24th, 2012... So that was sorta a start...
Completely disregarding what that post had said, I figured I may as well try and swap out my BCM to see if it may fix anything. So after many painstaking hours, and receiving plenty of those nice cuts you can only get by reaching your hand into places your hand is not supposed to be! I finally got the new (used) BCM in, which did nothing... Seriously... Gave me all the same errors I already had, so I just put my OEM one back in.
Back to the drawing board again! I had came across a post (which I am unable to find the link to) saying that to clear codes in AlfaOBD, it had to be done in a special way, which is: Turn the key to the MAR position, clear the codes in AlfaOBD, take out the key, lock the doors using the Key Fab, and just wait... I had done that one night and made the first tiny bit of progress I had made since I had begun! I woke up the next morning and the WHOLE drive to work, my odometer was not flashing! My audio was still messed up, but hey I made a little progress!
But then upon getting back in my car after work is was flashing again... F... I mean darn... Tried the same process I had mentioned above but was not able to make it stop flashing again after that.
Next thing I did was contact a friend of a friend, who works at a dealership. He was able to give me a lot of information on what needs to be done, but alas I am unsure if AlfaOBD can do it all (yet). Here are a couple of things he has said:

"All modules and cars with the RA2 (not sure which one this is, I have the touchscreen but not the touchscreen with all the features) radio have to be at the latest update prior to doing a proxy alignment, along with the scan tool. After doing the proxy, go to the RFH Module, Misc Functions, BCM Immobilizer Replaced. If the scan tool instructs to do so, BCM Misc Functions, Proxy Alignment"

I then contacted the developer of AlfaOBD who had told me currently those functions are not available, but he will add them in the future.
A couple of weeks or so later, I had noticed there was a new function in the Radio Frequency HUB which was called "BCM Replaced" (picture attached). I have yet to try it as I am unsure what exactly it does, and can not afford to explode my car... I like it...
I have delayed taking it to a dealer since I trust NONE in my area, or the area around my area... I know when if I took it to one they would tell me my BCM is bad and I do not believe it is. The ONLY thing that is messed up is my audio (seriously! the one thing I would hate to lose the most!), and I believe if my BCM was bad a LOT more would be going wrong with my car... And I have been driving it for truthfully almost 3/4 of a year like this...

So there, that is what I have, what I have tried, and what I have been working with... If ANYONE has ideas, please feel free to say! I have also been told it could be something in my ECU or my Radio... But have yet to try anything with the 2...
 

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Your problems started with the muffled radio. I think you need to get the RA2 updated. See if the dealership friend would be willing since that would have to be done by a dealer tech with access to the updates.
The headlight codes are most likely from the LED headlights. The Ram forum people have a lot of posts about switching to LED lights. I looked at the Dart BCM car configuration changes in alfaOBD but did not see anything to reconfigure to LED headlights. There may be a resistor fix for that which people on this forum have done.
If you did not replace the BCM, don't play with the RFH options unless your dealer tech friend sees that it must be done after the radio update.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Your problems started with the muffled radio. I think you need to get the RA2 updated. See if the dealership friend would be willing since that would have to be done by a dealer tech with access to the updates.
The headlight codes are most likely from the LED headlights. The Ram forum people have a lot of posts about switching to LED lights. I looked at the Dart BCM car configuration changes in alfaOBD but did not see anything to reconfigure to LED headlights. There may be a resistor fix for that which people on this forum have done.
If you did not replace the BCM, don't play with the RFH options unless your dealer tech friend sees that it must be done after the radio update.
It looks like I may be able to update it on my own... I am going to check it out and see if I actually have an update.

It looks like an update for my Uconnect came out 1 month after I purchased my car... So there is no way it is updated then.
 

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People on this forum have done the UConnect updates. Sometimes it doesn't work. If you had to do the "BCM replaced" in the RFH section, you would need the 4 digit PIN. There is a PIN puller app or you get it from a dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
People on this forum have done the UConnect updates. Sometimes it doesn't work. If you had to do the "BCM replaced" in the RFH section, you would need the 4 digit PIN. There is a PIN puller app or you get it from a dealer.
Ok, so I have updated my radio successfully (which was about 4 years out of date), but it has not changed anything. I have spent the last hour trying to fix the headlight error message, since I figured I may as well try and get that fixed before trying to fix the BCM as that could very well be what is causing this whole mess. Read up on the ram forums and unfortunately there is no setting in the darts BCM like in the ram in alfaobd to change to led headlights... I have attached a couple pictures of the only things close. I am just trying to think of any possibily as to what would cause this, and since I got this error about a month after installing my LEDs (I know it's quite a bit of time but it's the only thing close), I am trying to think of those as a possibility to. It would also explain why the proxy does not work since the led error code gets thrown pretty much the whole time my car is started... Has anyone else successfully swapped there dart to leds? I am seriously debating if I want to take them out and try it without them for a while... it may be a start since I am getting nowhere as of now...

Edit:
Doing a little digging I was able to find another post of an individual having ALMOST the same issue as me. https://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/dodge-dart-electronics/50393-possible-blown-stock-amp-premium-stereo-system.html#/topics/50393
I have NOT replaced my battery recently, but I do remember that the day this all started was the day where i live had hit record low temperatures (like -40 low). My bluetooth IS also working just fine. Apart from those the audio/speaker problem is the exact same. Anyone know anything about what serious cold can do to mess a BCM up...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
People on this forum have done the UConnect updates. Sometimes it doesn't work. If you had to do the "BCM replaced" in the RFH section, you would need the 4 digit PIN. There is a PIN puller app or you get it from a dealer.
Screenshot_20190710-222006_AlfaOBD.jpg

Deciding to look through all my BCM settings, could this possibly be a fix? I decided to take some screenshots of all my settings and I noticed that the "Acoustic Configuration" is set to 6 speakers... my car has 10. I'm unsure of what the other settings are, as I haven't been back out to my car to check, or even what that setting does... I'll update this post after I take a look. Any ideas?
 

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Try it. You can always change it back. Copy your current configuration as explained on the Ram forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Try it. You can always change it back. Copy your current configuration as explained on the Ram forum.
Screenshot_20190711-202840_AlfaOBD.jpg Screenshot_20190711-202842_AlfaOBD.jpg Screenshot_20190711-203204_AlfaOBD.jpg Screenshot_20190711-203511_AlfaOBD.jpg

Looking through them again I also noticed theres an audio system type. I've searched for all the different options of both settings and haven't been able to find anything... I have tried both 12ch options which did nothing since the repair manual mentions the alpine system using a 12 channel amp
 

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Not everything listed in the pull downs pertains to the Dart. Ram folks have already determined that for the Ram. You definitely don't have just 6 speakers. Perhaps the problem is the amp. The PROXI's you have done may have switched the setting to 6 speakers to compensate. I wonder if anyone here with alfaOBD and a working 10 speaker audio system can check what settings that they have and post the result?

From the FSM:
"12 channel 506 watts amplifier located under the instrument panel to the right of the glove box"
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Not everything listed in the pull downs pertains to the Dart. Ram folks have already determined that for the Ram. You definitely don't have just 6 speakers. Perhaps the problem is the amp. The PROXI's you have done may have switched the setting to 6 speakers to compensate. I wonder if anyone here with alfaOBD and a working 10 speaker audio system can check what settings that they have and post the result?

From the FSM:
"12 channel 506 watts amplifier located under the instrument panel to the right of the glove box"
Ok this is the first progress I have gotten since working on this! Instead of going into my BCM, I decided to go Into my RADIO and I found this!
Now how do I fix it... i checked the service repair manual and typing in that code came up with nothing...
 

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Look under AMPLIFIER (AMP), Base Diagnosis and Testing

That code is not listed but there are similar codes B14***with open circuits.
 

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The FSM Diagnostics goes from Channel 10 to Channel 12, skipping Chanel 11. You should be able to find that description for another channel like:
B1460-13-CHANNEL 1 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT - CIRCUIT OPEN
B1465-13-CHANNEL 2 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT - CIRCUIT OPEN
B146A-13-CHANNEL 3 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT - CIRCUIT OPEN
B146F-13-CHANNEL 4 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT - CIRCUIT OPEN
B1474-13-CHANNEL 5 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT - CIRCUIT OPEN
B1479-13-CHANNEL 6 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT - CIRCUIT OPEN
B147E-13-CHANNEL 7 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT - CIRCUIT OPEN
B1483-13-CHANNEL 8 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT - CIRCUIT OPEN
B14B9-13-CHANNEL 9 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT - CIRCUIT OPEN
B14BE-13-CHANNEL 10 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT - CIRCUIT OPEN
B14C8-13-CHANNEL 12 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT - CIRCUIT OPEN

Just need to figure out which speaker is controlled by Channel 11
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
The FSM Diagnostics goes from Channel 10 to Channel 12, skipping Chanel 11. You should be able to find that description for another channel like:
B14C8-13-CHANNEL 12 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT - CIRCUIT OPEN
Ok, so since channel 11 isn't in the repair manual, I figured I would go through all the channels and see which one it could be.

Driver Dash Speaker is Channel 1
Center Dash Speaker is Channel 10
Passenger Dash Speaker is Channel 2
Front Driver Door Speaker is Channel 3
Front Passenger Door Speaker is Channel 4
Rear Driver Door Speaker is Channel 9
Rear Passenger Door Speaker is Channel 12
Driver Trunk Speaker is Channel 5
Subwoofer is Channel 7 (Channel 8 is also called "Subwoofer 2", but as far as I know there is no second subwoofer)
Passenger Trunk Speaker is Channel 6
Channel 11 is unknown as all the speakers are located on other channels...

I am going to try and clear the dcn in the amp tomorrow. I tried to tonight but judging by the repair manual I didnt do it the right way. When the guide says to "turn the ignition on" does that just mean to turn it to run or to turn the engine on?
 

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Found this in the Ram FSM. The Ram does not have a channel 12. There are two amplifiers available, an 8 channel, rated at 322 watts (7 channels are used) and a 12 channel (11 channels are used), rated at 506 watts. The Dart tweeters are on the instrument panel so it's not the same.
The ON position is the same as RUN.
Have you tried to listen at each speaker position to see if there is sound. If it has an open, there should be no sound.

28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics / AMPLIFIER (AMP)/ Diagnosis and Testing

B14C3-13-CHANNEL 11 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT - CIRCUIT OPEN


•When Monitored:
Amplifier Bus wake-up. Amplifier reset with scan tool.

•Set Condition:
The Amplifier detects an open condition on the speaker output circuit.


Possible Causes

RIGHT REAR TWEETER SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT OPEN
RIGHT REAR TWEETER SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT OPEN
RIGHT REAR TWEETER SPEAKER
AMPLIFIER


1.CHECK FOR AN INTERMITTENT CONDITION

1. Turn the ignition on.

2. With the scan tool, record and erase the Amplifier DTCs.

3. Cycle the ignition switch from on to off, wait five seconds and then back to on.

4. Turn the Radio on and set the volume to 20.

5. Adjust the speakers to the front and center.

6. With the scan tool, read the active Amplifier DTCs.

Does the scan tool display active: B14C3-13-CHANNEL 11 AUDIO SPEAKER OUTPUT - CIRCUIT OPEN?

Yes

•Go To 2

No

•Test complete, the condition or conditions that originally set this DTC are not present at this time. Using the wiring diagrams as a guide, check all related splices and connectors for signs of water intrusion, corrosion, pushed out or bent terminals and correct pin tension.
•Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) /Standard Procedure).



2.CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE RIGHT REAR SPEAKER

1. Turn the ignition off.

2. Disconnect the Right Rear Speaker harness connector.

3. Turn the ignition on.

4. Turn the radio on and turn the volume to 25.

5. Adjust the speakers to the rear and center.

6. With a voltmeter set to read in A/C voltage, measure the voltage of the Right Rear Speaker circuits in the Right Rear Speaker harness connector.

Is the voltage present greater than 1 volt?

Yes

•Replace the Right Rear Speaker in accordance with the Service Information.
•Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) /Standard Procedure).

No

•Go To 3



3.CHECK THE (X305) RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+) CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN

1. Turn the ignition off.

2. Disconnect the Amplifier C2 harness connector.

3. Measure the resistance of the (X305) Right Rear Speaker (+) circuit between the Amplifier C2 harness connector and the Right Rear Speaker harness connector.

Is the resistance below 2.0 Ohms?

Yes

•Go To 4

No

•Repair the (X305) Right Rear Speaker (+) circuit for an open.
•Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) /Standard Procedure).



4.CHECK THE (X395) RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-) CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN

1. Turn the ignition off.

2. Disconnect the Amplifier C2 harness connector.

3. Measure the resistance of the (X395) Right Rear Speaker (-) circuit between the Amplifier C2 harness connector and the Right Rear Speaker harness connector.

Is the resistance below 2.0 Ohms?

Yes

•Replace the Amplifier in accordance with the Service Information.
•Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) /Standard Procedure).

No

•Repair the (X395) Right Rear Speaker (-) circuit for an open.
•Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) /Standard Procedure).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, so the only option now is to rip apart my glovebox to see my amp and see exactly what channel 11 is even connected to...

After following the procedure mentioned in the service repair manual to remove the error code from my amp, I was able to successfully remove it, but after turning the car on and off a couple times it had reset itself and came back, which confirms the code isnt just being thrown for no reason.

I just now decided to check all the channels and my speakers and make sure everything is working correctly. I followed my guide above and alfaobd has a function that will mute a channel on the amp until the car is reset. I went around to every speaker, listened to it to make sure it has audio coming out of it, and why my ear is to the speaker I muted it and heard it go out. The only thing that really helped was it confirmed channel 7 and 8 are not made for 2 seperate subwoofers, both channels run to the 1 sub, and muting 1 of those channels only mutes part of the audio coming from the sub, which would mean 11 channels are used, and channel 11 is still unconfirmed to run to anything. After all 11 other channels were muted I had my volume maxed out and nothing was coming out of channel 11... but it wouldn't anyway if the circuit is open 😅 I will be taking apart my glovebox to get to my amp during the weekend, not sure if I wanna start tonight or not... i will let you know if i find anything out doing so.
 

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I have removed a glovebox at the junkyard. It's not too difficult, just need to find all the screws. You have the manual, so you should be able to figure it out. The STAR connectors under the glove box slide to one side and unclip. Be careful not to break the clips that are attached to the bottom of the glove box.

dartSTARconnector.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have removed a glovebox at the junkyard. It's not too difficult, just need to find all the screws. You have the manual, so you should be able to figure it out. The STAR connectors under the glove box slide to one side and unclip. Be careful not to break the clips that are attached to the bottom of the glove box.

View attachment 117968
I can not seem to figure out where this is located... I'm small enough to be able to fit myself right under there and see everything under the glove box, but I can not figure out what this is even an illustration of...
 

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You should see the STAR connectors after you remove the hush panel. There are a couple you tube video about removing a glove box on a Dart, but those are not following the FSM and a little destructive actually. But they give you an idea where the screws are.
 

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I can not seem to figure out where this is located... I'm small enough to be able to fit myself right under there and see everything under the glove box, but I can not figure out what this is even an illustration of...
I think there is also pictures of removing the glove box in the electrical wiki section.
 

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Hey, any luck figuring it out? I'm getting the same B2204 code on the BCM. I had that same channel 11 code on the amp module, but I was able to clear that out while leaving the door open.

I think I figured out where channel 11 is located. I cranked the radio up to max while muting all the other channels, and can hear a faint sound coming out of the center channel area in the dash.
 
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