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I recently swapped out my factory 2013 aero seats and steering wheel for 2013 limited heated seats and wheel. It was requested that i make a write up about it. Since i was unable to find any information at all regarding this swap, i assume i'm the first one crazy enough to try it.

I purchased a salvage 2013 dart limited on Copart. I won the auction for $625 and after copart fees, broker fees, money wiring fees, and sales tax the total was $1,221. If you want to know how the process for copart works, let me know and i'll walk you through it. It's simple and i was grateful i didn't attempt to do this at a junkyard. However, if you do wish to go the "you pull it" junkyard route, bring a full tool box, a couple bottles of water, a couple sandwiches, and get there the second they open.

The total job took 16-17 hours. Mostly spent tracing wires through the car. A lot of time was spent following the wrong wires and removing things that weren't required, so after reading this, it should only take someone half the time.

This writeup will only pertain to the 2013 model. I have read elsewhere that at least 2016 and maybe others have wiring in slightly different places. primarily the Comfort Seat and Wheel Module (CSWM) location. On mine, it was connected under the driver seat. I've read that on 2016 its under the passenger seat. Also, the seat bolts are different for other years. On the 2013 the bolts are T40 torx.

I did not take many pictures, but i will upload the ones i have. This is my first time doing a project this large without advanced knowledge of how the system operates, so i was more focused on not screwing up then actually documenting it.

Step 1)
Remove the seats. Make sure the vehicle battery is still connected as the driver seat is power and will need to move forward and back to get to the 4 torx bolts mounting it to the floor. This is the easiest part of the whole build. Move the seats forward, remove the two rear bolts (the one closest to the center of the car has a plastic cover that needs to be removed. it is held in place with a phillips head screw). Move the seats back and remove the front bolts. Tilt the seat backwards and remove the wiring harness under it. There is only one harness on each seat. Pull back on the blue harness release handle, and pull the harness apart. Remove the seat from the car being careful of the sharp edges on the seat track. There isn't a lot of room and they like to scratch the center console and steering wheel.

Now disconnect and isolate the negative battery terminal. Power is no longer needed for the remainder of this adventure.

The rear seat is a bit of a pain. there are 3 bolts on the front of the seat base. Remove them and lift up on the front of the seat. with the front of the seat lifted, shove it towards the rear of the car to unclip the rear retaining bracket. This shoving took a bit of time to get right, and is helpful to have a friend pushing on the other side at the same time. after it's unclipped, there are two airbag harnesses to unclip (one on each side). put a screwdriver under the retainer clip to pry it up, then disconnect the harness. Once wiring is disconnected, pull the seat base out of the car. With the seat base removed, you can see the bolts holding the seat back hinges to the floor. Remove them, and pull the seat back out of the car

Step 2)
Removing the steering wheel. With all the newfound room in the cabin, i'd suggest removing the steering wheel next.

Make sure the tires are straight and the wheel is perfectly straight.

This step isn't required if you only want the seats, however its removal will make dash removal easier a few steps later.

The wiring in the clock spring behind the wheel is missing two wires in the harness for the heat. While some may suggest to just remove the wheel and the clock spring, i found it to be MUCH easier to remove the entire steering column and assembly.
Remove the plastic dash panel under the wheel. It is held in with 3 screws. Two are under the panel on the left side of the dash by the door, and one is on the bottom of the panel in the foot well.
The screws are phillips head but you can also use a 7mm socket.
After screw removal, pull on the panel to pop out the remaining clips. Remove the wiring connectors behind it and remove the hood latch to get the panel completely out of the way.
Next, remove the two small torx screws in the plastic column housing under the wheel. I believe they are t20, but could be t15
once screws are removed, pull the rest of the plastic from around the column by tugging on it to pop the clips.
Behind the gas pedal, you will see the steering column connection. Remove the bolt connecting the linkage.
Under the steering wheel, recessed into the dash will be 4 bolts holding the column into the dash. Remove them making sure to hold onto the wheel with one hand once you're on the last bolt, as it will fall on your face. after all bolts are removed, lower the column and pull it out towards the rear of the car. wiggle the wheel back and forth while pulling to detach the gear linkage by the gas pedal.


Step 3)
Removing the Dash and Center Console.
Welcome to the first P.I.T.A. step of the project. The dash removal is an insanely in depth process. I'd waste an entire thread explaining its removal, so instead, I'm going to link to a video i found on youtube. The youtube creator is Robchicks Life. Go show him some love and subscribe. He's only currently got 7 subs, and the few dart videos he has so insanely informative! He's got 3 wrecked darts, and is turning them into two whole darts i believe.


Step 4)
Remove the trim panels along the door sills and under the dash.
All these panels are clipped into place. A pry tool and nimble fingers are all you need to remove them. If you need more in depth instructions, reach out to me. Under the panels you'll see a black chanel that houses the wiring. pop off the top of that with the pry tool to expose the wiring.

Step 5)
Wiring. Welcome to the BIGGEST P.I.T.A. of your day.
Start on the passenger side at the seat harness. Start removing all of the tape holding the wires together in the harness. The tape will become the source of your finger pain for days to come. There are hundreds of feet of tape wrapping around all wires you'll need to remove from this point out. If you need to use a knife to get the tape started, be super careful not to cut any of the wires!
Remove the tape from the passenger seat harness, to the door. With the wires exposed, there are 3 wires that need to be de-pinned and pulled out of the plug. The connector sides are marked A and B with pin numbers on each position. The 3 wires to pull are side A positions 6,7, and 8. Before removal, Put a piece of tape on each wire and write their position number on the tape to make installation easier in your car.
The de-pin process is rather simple. You can purchase a pin removal tool, or use a pick or small precision screw driver like i did.
De-pin process -
first remove the blue plastic retainer on the back of the connector between the wires. This piece simply clips on to each side of the connector.
On the face of the connector, find one of the pins you need to remove, and use the pick to press back the tiny clip inside that holds the pin in place. lightly pull on the wire, until the pin is fully removed. Do this process for all 3 wires.
Now you need to trace those 3 wires. They to under the back seat, up the driver side and into the driver seat harness. You'll have to remove all the tape holding them together the entire way, and remove the driver side trim pieces along the way.
Drivers side.
Remove all the tape and zip ties holding the wire loom in place along the door sill. Follow the 3 wires from the passenger side into the driver side connector. tape, mark position, and remove the pins side B 2-3-6.
On side A Tape, Mark, and remove pins 4-6-8-9
on side B Tape, Mark, and remove pins 1-4-5-9

At this point, the 3 wires from the pass seat are able to be removed from the car completely. The rest, need to be traced up the loom into the dash. remove all tape, zip ties, and panels that are left along the way.
the black wire is a ground, tied into a common bolt with other ground wires under the dash. either cut the wire as long as you can, or remove that bolt entirely.
The other wires will end up at a large connector in the center column, under the HVAC controls and in front of the shifter.
remove the connector, and tape, mark, and de-pin the wires you've just traced, and remove them from the car.

At this point, eat a sandwich. Your hands will be sore, knuckles likely bleeding, and finger tips feeling like they will fall off.

Now onto the dash loom. From the other end of the connector. start removing more tape. lots of it. expose all the wires in the dash from the connector, up into the main dash loom, over to the steering wheel wiring harness, back into the dash, into the fuse box hidden up in the dash next to the steering column, and the one main power wire that has an inline automatic curcuit breaker attached to it.
Tape, mark, and de-pin the coorisponding wires on that connector, from the ones you just removed on the other side.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Passenger side wiring without heat
20170410_093609.jpg

passenger side wiring with heat
20170410_094331.jpg

driver side wiring without heat
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Driver side wiring with heat
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20170410_112454.jpg

close up of the main connector in the dash under HVAC controls, with heat
20170410_134648.jpg
20170410_134656.jpg

De-pinning wires in the main connector in the dash.
20170415_160150.jpg
20170415_160211.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This is a picture many of you have already seen, but this is what it looks like after you remove all the tape off the wiring harnesses in the dash.
20170410_134804.jpg
The section just above the shifter is still taped, this is where i forgot to trace the white and blue twisted pair the first time i pulled all of the wiring. It is now untaped and just as crazy looking as the rest.
 

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@SUP3R thanks for the writeup. Looks like a huge PITA but i'm sure it was worth it once everything worked
 

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If you've made it this far, the rest is EASY!
You will not have to remove the dash, you will not have to untape anything, you might not even break a sweat!
Install time, two hours.

Disconnect negative battery terminal

Step 1)
Remove your seats.

So by now, you're an expert at this. I no longer have to go into extreme detail.
Remove your seats.

Step 2)
remove your steering column. see steps in previous post.

step 3)
remove the dash panel containing the HVAC controls, and detach the center console.

once you remove the hvac, remove the two screws holding the center console to the dash.
then remove the two bolts holding the rear of the center console. Pop up the shifter boot, and pop out the little change tray in front of it.
pop off the little panel in front of the parking brake. remove the two side panels in front of the center console, on the sides of the footwell.
now slide the console to the rear of the car. you do not need to remove it. this will expose the main wiring harness.

That's the extent of the demolition of your car.


step 4)
Wiring


now, go wire by wire starting at the driver harness.
plug in all the wires into the locations you've marked on the tape.
After you've put them all into place, tape them to the existing harness.
pop off your trim panels by the door, and continue to tape your new wires along the existing harness.
run them up into the dash, and use zip ties to attach them away from any and all moving parts.
connect the ground wire to the same wires in the dash that you removed it from previously.
run the other control wires across into the center and clip them into the main wiring plug.
the 3 remaining wires that go to the passenger seat can be run under the carpet near the center console, and out where the passenger harness pokes out of the carpet.
plug them in and tape them in place.

now, the wires from the other side of the main connecter need to be attached.
run the two power wires to the fuse box and plug them in. Don't forget to put the new 20 amp fuses in as well.
run the main red power wire to the same wire you clipped it from, under the BCM. strip the existing wire, and solder it into place.
run the two wires up and plug them into the steering wheel harness.
route the twisted pair to the hub under the glove box and plug it in.


Step 4)
install steering wheel.

install the steering wheel using the 4 bolts under the dash. ensure that the wheel is perfectly straight, and expand the column to connect the joint by the gas pedal. put in the bolt and tighten it. reconnect the plug on the right of the column.


step 5)
install the seats.

again self explanatory. start with the passenger seat, plug in the wiring harness, and bolt the seat into place
on the driver side, plug in the connector, and install the two exposed bolts that you can reach.
Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Now test the seat movement. if it doesn't work, either your power wire, or your ground wire are not connected properly.
if it slides, fasten the other two bolts.


step 6)
programming the bcm.

contact me directly if you have any issues with these steps and i can talk you through it.

OK now the fun part. So, you've done all this work.. but because our cars have insane computers, it has no idea your new heated seats exist yet.
if you're willing to do all this, and get this far, you need to purchase an OBDLink MX and the ALFAOBD app.
don't try and be cheap, and use a less expensive OBD connector. If you're willing to do mods like this to your car, you cannot sacrifice quality on the very last step!

connect the OBDLink to your obd2 port, and turn the key to the on position.
you'll now see your airbag light turn on, your odometer will be flashing, and your radio will not have the heated seat controls on it.


first, use alfa to connect to the airbag occupant classification module.
once connected, run the OCM system verification test.
when its complete, turn your key off then open and close your door.
wait until the system is completely shut down, and turn the key back into the on position.

second, use alfa to connect to the Body computer.
go into car configuration change.
select heated seats, and click front seats. then push start. after it says "complete"
select power seats, and click enable, then push start. after complete
select seat material, and choose leather. push start.
select heated steering wheel, click enable. push start.
select steering wheel material, choose leather. push start

Now, perform a PROXY alignment.
once complete, if any of the systems fail, which they may first time;
turn the key off, open and close the door, wait for the system to shut down completely,
turn the key back on, reconnect to the body computer, and redo the PROXY alignment.
continue this process until every one says passed. It took me 3 times.

step 7)
Put dash back together

now that you know everything works, you're safe to put everything back together.
slide the center console back into place and put the screws back in,
reinstall the HVAC
reinstall the steering wheel surround
reinstall all the door trim and any remaining dash trim.


Congratulations, you now have heated seats!:cool:

@SUP3R thanks for the writeup. Looks like a huge PITA but i'm sure it was worth it once everything worked
lets just say, my fingers still hurt.. but, even though it's been above 70 here since i've installed them, i still turn them on every day. i'm actually in shock that they work, and even more in shock that an app like ALFA even exists. haha
 

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Also I was checking out copart.ca and was wondering how I find out all the features of one of the wrecks, ie does it have a heated steering wheel, etc.

Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk
 

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Get the build sheet using the VIN. Every option will be listed.
To get any Chrysler build sheet go to this link, click on equipment listing and enter the VIN.
Dodge - Contact Us
 
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Alpine is correct.
that is the only way to know for sure what the car has, and exactly what i used.
Copart doesn't care about specifics, but you are allowed to go and inspect the car yourself any time they are open before the auction.
I do not have the wheel part number unfortunately.
I removed the whole column because just swapping the wheel won't work. you'll need to swap the clock spring and the wiring going to it as well.
 

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@SUP3R I would really like to hear about your experience with copart. I have signed up and have a bunch of questions for you, but hearing about your experience first will help a lot.

Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk
 

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@SUP3R I would really like to hear about your experience with copart. I have signed up and have a bunch of questions for you, but hearing about your experience first will help a lot.

Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk
Copart was a pain at first, but after knowing how it works, its not that bad. First thing to note is with a standard account, you can only buy cars marked "no license required". That is because some states require a licenced car business to purchase salvage cars.
If a car you want is on the normal car list, then you need a broker.
Brokers can be found on the broker list. I used AlpineAutoGallery .com for mine.
You pay them a refundable deposit (mine was 400) and they send you a buyer number and password.
find a car, bid on it, wire the money to alpine, go pick up the car.

It's a bit more in depth than that, but pm me if you have questions. Don't want to clog up this thread with copart info.
 

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@SUP3R I think I have found a steering column with the heated steering wheel for a great price but wanted to double check some things with you.

Do you have any further information about doing just the steering column? Pictures? Will additional wires have have to be run or will it be plug and play?

I have the heated seats and have already done the sales code and proxy.



Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk
 

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@SUP3R I think I have found a steering column with the heated steering wheel for a great price but wanted to double check some things with you.

Do you have any further information about doing just the steering column? Pictures? Will additional wires have have to be run or will it be plug and play?

I have the heated seats and have already done the sales code and proxy.



Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk
If your heated seats are factory, I don't know if your steering column is pre-wired or not.
Pop the dash panel off under the steering column, disconnect the plug attached to the column, and see if every hole in the connector has a wire. If the connector is full, then you're pre-wired. If it's missing 2 wires, you'll need to get those. They go from that connector to the main seat connector under the hvac controls.
If it's missing those wires, it may also be missing the wires from under the seat to that main connector as well.
I don't have any pics of that, but I may be able to take some. Give me a couple days to get them for ya. In the process of buying a house and don't have a lot of time to play with my cars.
 

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I've completely disassembled the steering wheel column. I can see the path for the heated steering wheel wires now. Tomorrow I'll be taking apart my steering wheel column in my car.


Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk
 

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Just be sure you disconnect the battery for a while before taking anything apart so the air bag doesn't decide to blow up in your face. Wire colors in the column can be different from wire colors on the steering wheel. Hopefully you have the mate to that connector.
 

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I do have the mate for the connector and about a foot of cable, until where they cut it.

Sorry which connection do you mean? The one going into the bottom of the clock spring?

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Ok so upon inspection, the cable (the cable that plugs into the steering column) from my car has the same amount of wires (12) in the same place as the steering column with the heated steering wheel.

I'm still trying to figure out how to remove the airbag from the steering wheel so I can inspect the wiring in my wheel. Any ideas?


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