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Hey guys. I just installed my sportlines. I measured my fender right before and imp 26.25in the front and 27.0in in the rear. It took me approx. 3.5 hours but I used power tools, a lift, and 2 friends.

First off my process will be a little different than most, but I highly recommend finding a buddy with a lift or hiring a shop for cheap because doing this on the ground would have been extremely more difficult and probably 5 hours worth. I’m not responsible for anything that goes wrong with your install or later effects with your dart, imp simply retelling how my night went.

First, Get the car lifted up and take the wheels off.

I started by:

1). unbolting the speed sensor in the knuckle with a 10mm socket.

View attachment 22559

2). Unbolt the tie rod end with an 18mm socket. The drive side removed easy, but the passenger I had to stick a t-40 in the end to isolate it.

View attachment 22544

3). Remove the sway bar link bolt with a 16mm socket.

View attachment 22543

4). Unclip the brake line and the speed sensor line from the strut

5). removed the bolt attaching the strut to the steering knuckle with a 18mm socket and hold the other side with a inverter torx 12, but I used a 11mm 12point socket

View attachment 22547

6). Remove the Ball joint with a 16mm socket and a 11mm 12point to hold it from spinning.

View attachment 22545

7). Pry the lower control arm away from the knuckle and release the ball joint from the knuckle. It takes some funny angles and awkward positions but I will come out

8). If on a lift, lower the car enough to reach the strut tower, and support the rotor and knuckle with a block of wood.

9). on the strut tower, remove the strut retaining Shark clips by separating it with a screwdriver.

View attachment 22548

10). If on a lift, raise the dart back up to access the strut.

THIS NEXT PART IS DANGEROUS. PLEASE TAKE CAUTION WHEN WORKING WITH SPRINGS!

11). Separate the Strut from the knuckle by pulling up on the strut and down on the knuckle. I sprayed it with Pb blaster and it makes it a lot easier to slide out

12). Take your spring compressor and compress the spring, with a 18mm socket remove the strut top mount and then slide the strut out of the compressor.

View attachment 22549

13). CAREFULLY LOOSEN THE SPRING! CAREFULLY!!!!

14). Assemble the Eibach boot and pad thingy (the proper word escapes me) by inserting the pad thingy through the bottom of the boot and with the flat piece being the top.

View attachment 22550

15). Compress the Eibach Spring and slide the strut in place. Slide the boot and pad thingy onto the strut shaft then secure the top with the 18mm nut. Remember to use the factor spring pads.

View attachment 22551

16). Once you have the strut assembled again loosen the spring and Install back on the car. Installation is straight forward; Make sure everything is torque to Eibach and Factory specs. Follow proper torque techniques when the car is lifted and when the car is compressing the suspension components.

17) For alignment of strut, make sure the top piece is aligned with the hole on the mount to the front hole of the tower.

18). Installation is opposite of disassemble, but those that need a detailed walk through, ill hold your hand!


Place the strut in the tower and finagle it to and shove it back in the knuckle.
Place the bolt through the strut and secure it to the knuckle with you 16mm socket and 12pt.

Work some DIY mechanic magic and get the ball joint back into the knuckle and reassemble the bolt in it with the 18mm socket. BE CAREFUL AND DON’T PINCH YOUR FINGERS.

Tighten the Tie rod, tighten the sway bar link.
Replace the retaining shark clips on top of the strut tower. Chrysler suggests replacing each time they are separated but I didn’t. Even though you should, I can’t control your work, but I’m telling you to get new ones!


For the Rear, it was quite a bit simpler.

1). While securely supported on Jack stands or on a lift, Compress the rear spring and remove.

2). Transfer the factory spring pads to the Eibach springs.

View attachment 22554

3). Decompress the factory spring. USE EXTREME CAUTION!

4). Compress the Eibach Spring, and slowly decompress it in place on the LCA. It took me a couple times to properly line up the spring in the mounting locations, but the end of the spring seats down in the LCA and will be obvious of the proper location. You can recompress the spring and rotate as needed. Be sure the top and bottom are seated properly and the pads are in place.


5). Place all your wheels back on the car, tighten your wheels down to factory specs but I did mine to 100ft/lbs.



This is my first ever write up, so I’m sure I have typos, grammatical errors, and awkwardly phrased sentences. Feel free to use this as a guide, but if you find a more simple approach please feel free to inform me and I can edit my write up or you can make your own as well. If there are any point I need to elaborate more on or any tips you can give me please help me out!

As a good note, check and retighten the suspension components after a couple weeks or about 3000 miles to make sure everything is functioning properly. Get an alignment and enjoy living the low life


Check us out on FB. Fb.com/builtmotorsports
Instagram jakehodge11 or dodgedartsatl
If you are local PM me and I can help you install dart parts of give better advice!
 

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Nice job and thorough. Maybe get this moved to the wiki section. welcome to the sportline family. Oh, and pics when it settles in.
 

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Great write-up!
 

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I'm having a ton of trouble getting the control arm out of the knuckle. Does anyone have any tips on how to remove. It would greatly help me I've been driving with the tears done for a week because I can seem to get the fronts done
 

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I'm having a ton of trouble getting the control arm out of the knuckle. Does anyone have any tips on how to remove. It would greatly help me I've been driving with the tears done for a week because I can seem to get the fronts done
Here is the service information from Chrysler:

02 - Front Suspension/Front/ARM, Lower Control/Removal

REMOVAL


NOTE:
Before proceeding, (Refer to 02 - Front Suspension/Front - Warning) .

1.Raise and support the vehicle(Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting - Standard Procedure) .

2.Remove the wheel mounting bolts, then the tire and wheel assembly.


3.Remove the pinch bolt nut (3) and pinch bolt from the knuckle.



NOTE:
Use care when separating the ball joint stud from the knuckle so the ball joint boot does not get cut.



4.Insert a pry bar (2) in the opening (1) between the control arm front mounting bolt and the front fascia support beam.

5.Separate the lower control arm from the knuckle by prying down with the pry bar (2).

6.Remove the fasteners (2) securing the lower bumper reinforcement (1) and front fascia support beams to the frame/front end module for the side of the vehicle the lower control arm is being removed from.

7.Remove the front fascia support beam (1) from the side of vehicle the lower control arm is being removed from.

8.Remove the front horizontal bolt (1) attaching the lower control arm to the front suspension crossmember.

9.Remove the nut (1) and rear vertical bolt (2) attaching the lower control arm to the front suspension crossmember.

10.Remove the lower control arm from the crossmember.

View attachment 48416 View attachment 48417 View attachment 48418 View attachment 48419 View attachment 48420 View attachment 48421

I numbered the pictures to go with corresponding step.

Hope it helps!!
 

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Threads like this need to be "Sticky" for everyone to have easier access to, instead of having to search through pages. Just a suggestions for any how to threads that were done correctly and have good information to pass along to other Dart owners.
 

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Replace the retaining shark clips on top of the strut tower. Chrysler suggests replacing each time they are separated but I didn’t. Even though you should, I can’t control your work, but I’m telling you to get new ones!
Yes these should be replaced every time you separate them!! You can pick them up at your local Mopar dealer they only cost apx $0.75 each (Price @ your dealer may differ) but if more then I would say $1.00 each, (find a better dealership)

Misfit
 

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Thank you for the walkthrough, it helped me greatly doing my kit. I put H&R springs on mine, the front took about 5 hrs and the rear, i litterally pulled the springs out by hand and pushed the new ones in. Question though, now when i hit some bumps i hear some clicking noise coming from the front end, any idea what this is? i cant seem to find it, i checked the shark clips and those are tight, we double checked everything we removed to make sure it was all tight before putting it back on the ground. the noise is driving me nuts
 

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Anyone have any extra tips for getting the strut tower assembly out of the lower control arm? Removed the pinch bolt and pried and beat and used PB Blaster and pried and beat some more... And nothing, came about half way and wouldn't come no more. So put it all back together...
 

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A buddy and I have done three sets now, got our time down to 2.75 hours front and rears. lol
 

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A buddy and I have done three sets now, got our time down to 2.75 hours front and rears. lol
and you posted this instead of any advice? Dick move bro :haha:

Anyone have any extra tips for getting the strut tower assembly out of the lower control arm? Removed the pinch bolt and pried and beat and used PB Blaster and pried and beat some more... And nothing, came about half way and wouldn't come no more.

So out it all back together...
have you looked at the first page of this thread? There's a diagram with the proper prying spot to help get the knuckle and control arm apart so you have enough room/play to get the strut out of the knuckle. If that prying spot doesn't work....get a buddy and a big mallet....then you spend lots of time swearing/prying and smacking the control arm down while someone pulls/prys up on the knuckle until you get them to separate.
 

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and you posted this instead of any advice? Dick move bro :haha: have you looked at the first page of this thread? There's a diagram with the proper prying spot to help get the knuckle and control arm apart so you have enough room/play to get the strut out of the knuckle. If that prying spot doesn't work....get a buddy and a big mallet....then you spend lots of time swearing/prying and smacking the control arm down while someone pulls/prys up on the knuckle until you get them to separate.
Yeah I definitely read that, that's why I said "extra" tips. Haha. We got that lower control arm pin out about half way and it wouldn't budge from there.

My buddy installed springs in his SRT4 awhile back and he did the same thing on my car that he did with his. Used a pry bar and kept pressure on it while one of us beat the control arm down.

I sprayed PB blaster on both sides and put the stuff back together. Hopefully with some drive time and the PB in there it'll loosen up a little bit.
 

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and you posted this instead of any advice? Dick move bro :haha:
You're a moron.... Simply stating a time, did I poke and prod at the guy? No. You posting "Dick move" makes you what you say. Leave it at that or if you want to be a child, post a reply.
 

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Anyone have any extra tips for getting the strut tower assembly out of the lower control arm? Removed the pinch bolt and pried and beat and used PB Blaster and pried and beat some more... And nothing, came about half way and wouldn't come no more. So put it all back together...
Keep the strut locked inlace under the hood, remove ball joint to spindle nut and bolt. Pry till they pop apart, jack up the spindle/strut and continue to pry. You may also need a 2LB hammer so you can beat on the control arm to coax the ball joint from the spindle.

Note*

If you have the strut/spindle jacked up, when the balljoint/control arm break free, the strut/spindle will swing out towards you. Use your foot to hold it still or just place your foot infront of the jack and it will stay still. Lower your jack.
 

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Keep the strut locked inlace under the hood, remove ball joint to spindle nut and bolt. Pry till they pop apart, jack up the spindle/strut and continue to pry. You may also need a 2LB hammer so you can beat on the control arm to coax the ball joint from the spindle. Note* If you have the strut/spindle jacked up, when the balljoint/control arm break free, the strut/spindle will swing out towards you. Use your foot to hold it still or just place your foot infront of the jack and it will stay still. Lower your jack.
Thank you very much. I will use this info.
 

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You're a moron.... Simply stating a time, did I poke and prod at the guy? No. You posting "Dick move" makes you what you say. Leave it at that or if you want to be a child, post a reply.
lmao......I forget how thin skinned everyone is on this board.....reminds me of all the current college students and their need for "safe spaces" from those "evil words"

let me clue you in on something here numbnuts..... That laughing face I posted at the end of my comment makes it pretty clear I'm kidding around....unless you have ZERO sense of humor. But I like that you managed to call me not one but two names and try to stifle any sort of reply to you getting butthurt.
 
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