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Discussion Starter #22
You are correct, BlueDemon - Amps are designed to dissipate heat in this manner; The more it is pushed the hotter it gets. In this case, the amp is pretty far overpowered for this scenario. Many people believe a lower powered amplifier will be safe from harming lesser components, but the opposite is true!! Lower powered amplifiers will be pushed harder, and therefore output more distortion, which is what really kills speakers.

This is a 500 watt amplifier - likely twice the needed power. In this case, the amp is barely pushing what it could really do, as the all of the speakers in this install are quite efficient. Another alternative to this would be to mount it to the speaker enclosure. I did not so this, so I could easily remove the speaker for storage space or to use with one of my other systems.

You might not want to mount your amps like that. When amps are mounted upside down...the heat rises into the board instead of through the heat sinks and through the top. This could be a factor why your previous amp took a crap on you. Just food for thought. I'm currently building an amp rack for mine so I can mount it upright but still attach it to the decklid.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
I took it to my buddy to help with the springs, as I didn't want to lose any appendages if the springs released on me. I have not done any of this kind of work, but this is one of my favorite mods. It's like this is how the car was meant to feel from the factory. Below is my baby on the lift getting her treatment. I highly recommend New Star Transmission, if you are in the Chicagoland area.
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The rotors were previously painted, but not removed to do so. The next time I have these off to replace the brakes or wheels I will be re painting those bad boys,
Here is after the Eibach Springs installed:
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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Next thing I ordered was the Forge Blow off valve - not a biggie, but sounds pretty cool!
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I haven't done much work under the hood before this car, so this was a step up for me. Super easy!
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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Next up, I messed with pinstriping tape on the wheels. I thought I like it at first, but got sick of it. It brought out the fact that the wheels are only 17" - not too sexy. I eventually removed this.
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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Now Dodge didn't pay me SHIT to drive it's vehicles...did they pay you? Well, then I'm not in the mood to advertise them for free! I removed all of the Dodge badges for a cleaner look. The Multiair turbo badge was saved for later use inside. The 5 letters of D-O-D-G-E were replaced with those of my name: Y-O-D-E-R.
 

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Now Dodge didn't pay me SHIT to drive it's vehicles...did they pay you? Well, then I'm not in the mood to advertise them for free! I removed all of the Dodge badges for a cleaner look. The Multiair turbo badge was saved for later use inside. The 5 letters of D-O-D-G-E were replaced with those of my name: Y-O-D-E-R.
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Lol...I don't think that is the right context for that analogy. Everyone knows you are driving a dodge...so in a way you are advertising for them just by driving the car...most people know it's a dodge.

Also I find this funny you don't want people to know what you drive...but you want everyone to know you bought it at Berwyn Kia...lol

That would have been the first thing off my car personally
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Next up was to knock out a few things, since I have to take apart the entire front end - with the Aero panels, it was a bit of a pain, especially with the car lowered. I replaced the silver headlights with Black Eagle Eyes, and wired LED fog lights that switch to turn signals (yellow) when activated. They run as the car is running via the fuse block, and switch to yellow turn signals as used. I also replaced the license plate holders.

 

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Discussion Starter #31
I like to sit far back in the seat, and with my right foot comfortably on the gas, I felt the end of the clutch path was a bit too far back. I modified the pedal slightly, using a full pedal replacement kit, and doubling up on the front end, then modifying the connectors. I used longer bolts from a hardware store and made sure they were super secured. IT brings the clutch up about 1/2 inch - not a lot, but I like where it's at now.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Next up is the Raizin Voltage Stabilizer - this smoothes out small variations in voltage, and also monitors battery voltage under the hood. It gives an LCD readout, and alerts if there is a battery issue. The small cables that came with it were fine for functionality, but since I added third party items that draw voltage (Amplifier, interior LEDs, exterior LED's, etc) I wanted more support.

In addition to this small controller box, i added large 0/1 Awg grounding wires all under the hood, and connecting to the fuse block, as well as grounding the audio components in the trunk. I used the wires that came with the kit, and also created/soldered my own using bulk wire and connectors from our shop. The connections were heavily soldered for extra rigidity and support. This connected virtually everything under the hood and supported it's grounds. You have to be very careful, as the engine gets super hot, so the cable must be run in specific places to avoid melting.





 

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Discussion Starter #34
I hadn't explained this before, but the craziness with this vehicle goes way back...You see, I have a music and technology company called Horse-Drawn Productions, and has been around since 1998. We currently have a company truck used for live sound, sound installations, band tours, etc. The truck also doubles as a giant billboard for the company.



So now it is time to add the graphics to the Dart! I helped my graphic designer come up with something eye catching, yet not overpowering, such as a full vehicle wrap. I wanted it to show off, yet people can use google, so no need for Phone, website, etc. That may be too tacky (yeah, like putting your NAME on the back isn't ultra tacky enough!)






 

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Discussion Starter #36
I thought I had installed a true CAI - but my mechanic/buddy told me I am an idiot - well not in so many words. I have the K & N typhoon intake, which sounds pretty freakin' awesome, but I wasn't seeing the gains I thought I would with it. It doesn't really cool it enough. It is safer, living in Chicago, from the water - but who wants to be safe?

I want more power and more MPG's! Here is the mod, although looking back at it, I may go with a true CAI, as this seems to be mostly a sound improvement. MPG barely changed, and the little it did go up was likely me learning the gearbox more efficiently.
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
As if I don't stick out enough with this ride - I need more! Underbody LED lights...oh man, here we go!
The transmitter is wireless, so no need for another line through the firewall- everything on the box tucked under the hood can be changed remotely. The thing has about 18 patterns - in orange, of course!


With the car lowered, and the Aero package panels underneath, adding them to the front would have surely killed them after a Chicago winter, so I put the front one behind the grill - Knight Rider Style!
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
Whoa! I LOVE the fog light bezel mod!!!! Can you elaborate on that (or point me to where you did)??? That's the EXACT look I want on my Aero!
Sure - it was a bit of a pain, as I said you have to remove the entire fascia, including the front Aero paneling underneath. The whole assembly then lifts off of the car. You can find this info on youtube - search Dodge Dart Headlight replacement - you'll fine a few.

The lights I used are from SiriusLed. **THESE**

There are three wires: one for the +12v white, one for +12v yellow, and a ground. Connect the white +12v line directly to the battery (fused) or find a switchable fuse and use one of those "add a fuse" parts from Amazon. The yellow power and ground were connected to the turn signal circuit. When power is sent to the turn signals, it switches to yellow, and flashes in sync with the turn signal. Be sure to leave enough slack in the cable after the splice so you will be able to change bulbs later, when they burn out.

I used a super strong epoxy to connect the LED to the strip next to the fog light. Mine didn't have the factory fogs, so it was not hard. You need to drill a small 3/8" hole on the inside of the strip so the light can peek through from the inside, where the wires are. I chose to leave the factory silver bezel/trim in place, and used the top side of it as a glueing surface.

The adhesive bonds in 5 minutes, so you have to stand there like a jackass and hold it tightly in place, as it will want to slide off, or rise up off the trim. The LED can be trimmed as needed, and doesn't affect the light, so I rounded/tapered one end so it sat flush with the trim. The other (wire) end can go back through the hole and be hidden, so it has a clean look to it.

Be sure to leave enough slack, so if the fascia has to be removed again, you won't rip the wire connecting it to the headlights. It comes with a removable connector, so it can easily be detached. I'm guessing removing the whole thing will be a bit of a pain, but the led should last a few years, and it has been completely waterproof so far.

The problem is, it makes my headlights look yellow and sickly! I've got HID's going in the headlights later this week. My good friend at New Star Transmission does them for super cheap - and they look fantastic!! No flickering - these guys are pros, and are very trustworthy people. He's only charging me $42 for the set!
 
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