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Discussion Starter · #301 · (Edited)
Getting things wrapped up for the big Midwest Dart meet - Just a few last thread updates, before I close up this build thread. Some minor updates - I wired in a 3-way switch in the trunk. This powers the spinning subwoofer grill, LEDs in the trunk, and the orange El Wire outlining the subwoofer. I can help if anyone wants to do this - the switch is on-off-on. The first on is constant (for car shows, etc) the off is, well, off; the (lower) on is switched ignition power.
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Finally, since I got the hood, there is a vent, so I can show light through it. I put the white engine lights on a separate switch with constant power, so I can turn these on from inside the engine bay.

off:


on:


New hood with demon eyes, hash stripes removed:

 

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2015 Dodge Dart Aero 1.4T
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SO i went ahead and washed an waxed my car last night for the meet... today it rains... go figure right? I guess ill have to do it all over again on thursday...
 

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FOUND IT, NEVERMIND!!! POST CAN BE DELETED!
@yodamusic, I really like the treatment of the headlights, you call them "Demon Eyes" did you do that yourself, was it a kit?
I think that color would look amazing on my CPP rallye.
do share! please.
 

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This was a fun installation!! Burned the crap out of my hand on the downpipe - the front part of my shifter linkage cable broke off. Jammed it into third a bit too hard on the third honk, popped the linkage right off! Put it back, but it kept falling off, so I ordered another one. Can't wait for this scar.



edited to remove street racing reference - street racing is not promoted or allowed as a discussion topic here. - clolarte
 

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Discussion Starter · #307 ·
is the shift linkage something an aftermarket upgrade would improve?
Only if they could do it without using plastic. Both of mine ended up breaking, but once again, it was the dealership's fault. They likely stress-cracked it when they replaced my master and slave cylinder, making it weak. It eventually gave out.
 

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The WOT box is pretty awesome, launch control and full boost no lift shift is where its at. Have one on my NSRT-4
 

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Discussion Starter · #309 · (Edited)
WOT BOX INSTALLATION HOW-TO:

What is a wot box? What does it do? Why?

WOT Box - N2MB Racing
Launch Control
Launch Control - what is it?
Anti-lag System

Answer: Why not?

Enough with the reading, Yoder, give me the juice!! Lol, here we go:

First of all, I run a Unichip Q4, which uses a harness that connects to the PCM, basically inserting itself between the PCM and the car. This made my install quite easy, as I could tap into all of the needed wires from within my harness, without any cutting, splicing, or modifying of the factory wires, except for one. Below is the cryptic instructions I received from their customer service, upon asking if it would work. There were mixed reviews on what would work, what wouldn't work, and how to do it, as I reached out to several people who had done it before on other social media sites, and I now know the full details of this box.

The colors in the chart refer to the colors on the wot box. The one thing that may be different is the coil output wire, which may be black or orange, depending on the revision harness you receive. This is the basic pinouts from their website:


All of the wires tap into the lines in question, except for the ignition coils, which I'll get to in a minute. I solder for a living, basically, so I'm pretty quick at it - I used a technique where I scrape the top layer off of one side of a wire, using a razor blade. You run the blade carefully down the side of the wire, basically stripping one side of the wire. You can make several passes to give you 1/4" or so of bare wire, such as this (the actual wire won’t break so easily, as the crappy wire in the pic did - doesn’t matter, though, as the solder will solidify it) I did this quickly for these pics, but it's easy to get perfect with no broken wires, with a little practice. (Yes, you can just use wire taps, but I make every connection under my hood waterproof, and wire taps look like sh!t) Next, add a small amount of solder flux to the exposed wire. Then, add your solder to the bare wire. This is very easy using the flux ,as it forces the solder to melt away any hanging rubber and seal perfectly to the wire:


The connection is then covered with liquid electrical tape:



Be sure to tin the new wire as well, so when you make the connection they bond. If wires are soldered properly, the bond will be far stronger than the wire. I've tested this in the past, when a client refused to pay in full for a studio install, so I ripped my connections out of the wall, and the solder held in place while the wires broke. Anyway, we need to tap into the wires below. You can see the installation notes they sent match up to the PCM pinouts, as I verified each one, just to be sure. We need pins for ground (1,2,4) clutch (84) Accelerator Pedal Position (83) and injectors (3) going to the colors mentioned above. I was able to easily do this, by tapping into the Unichip harness. There's not much to see in the pic, as the wires were tapped inside of the sheath, and put back together.


The last part of the pinout instructions above, in red, is very cryptic. This is what it means - you need to interrupt power to all 4 ignition coils at once. Some users spliced into the four wires at the engine block, but this seems like trouble, to me. Instead, there is a brown/yellow wire coming directly out of Fuse #16 in the engine bay. If you pull the fuse block up a bit, you can get to this wire and cut it. I went the extra step, and soldered a waterproof connector here. This way, the whole thing, including Unichip, can be quickly removed. When not in use, the male/female connectors complete the circuit as usual. When they are plugged into the lines to the wot box, it gives the wot box power, and completes the circuit. This was a bit of extra work, but makes for a clean installation, and can be removed to repair, go to the dealership, etc. The red line goes to the fues, which gives the box 12V+ power, the orange (or 2nd black) goes out to the four coils. You can confirm this with a multi-meter.

These are the waterproof connectors, and I also added liquid electrical tape to every connection, for added safety.


Both the wot box and the Unichip fit nicely in the fuse box - at the bottom you can kind of see the waterproof connectors inserted to the coils:


Finished installation:


The voltages had to be adjusted to work with the Dart. Our throttle peaks @ 1.95V, so you have to drop the APP voltage from 3.0 down to 1.75, and the other settings should look like this:
 

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Discussion Starter · #310 ·
Hood Pins Installed - A local car tech suggested to keep my new carbon fiber hood looking good for years to come, I should secure it with hood pins. This will keep it from cracking over time, and a safety net from the hood latch separating from the carbon and snapping up during extreme driving. Less than a week later, the clearcoat on the CF started to get a crack near the hood latch. I immediately ordered hood pins, including gaskets, so no metal would be touching the carb fiber. The hood needs to be re-clear coated in 1-2 years, so no biggie, but I wanted to ensure it stays this way.




 

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Discussion Starter · #313 ·
2017 Updates!

I haven't been on much, recently - but I've been a bit busy, both on and off the road. Here are the latest updates of the Dartlene saga:

Break-in' the law! 20% tint upfront, 5% around the back.




Followed the advice from some great reviews - My left ballast for the HID's went out. I traced them down to a Chinese company, and was $20 to replace - half the cost of the cheap kit, so I upgraded to the Xenon-Vision kit. With the discount form this site, it was $80.00 shipped. IN addition, I realized my Eagle Eye headlights convert the socket to an H11. They sent me the H11 at no additional cost - great customer service. I do, however, get a "high beam out" error on every startup, FYI.





I would rub, occasionally, with the family in the car and the trunk full. Someone on FB pointed out it was rubbing on the rear tabs, connecting the bumper to the rear quarter panel. They suggested using a diamond tipped dremel bit, which I did not have. I used some Amish skill, and hammered that bad boy down. I don't think I'll ever rub, now.



Finally, I experimented with some thick washers, simulating spacers. I really don't think I can go any wider, but it does look good. No rub here, but I was unable to compress the springs enough to tell. This is 5/8":

 

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2015 Dodge Dart Aero 1.4T
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You are getting the error message because those HIDs dont have Canbus ballasts to power them correctly. I think in that case you will need a wiring harness... I have an extra if you want it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #316 ·
You are getting the error message because those HIDs dont have Canbus ballasts to power them correctly. I think in that case you will need a wiring harness... I have an extra if you want it!
They are Canbust ballasts - I seem to be the only one with errors, but only on high beam They did come with an extra set of wires in the harness, to jump from the factory connector, but mine reached right to the box, so I didn't use them. Is that what you mean by wiring harness?
 

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2015 Dodge Dart Aero 1.4T
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Eurocompulsion Water Meth Injection Kit? Check. Now I just have to find time to install it! As usual, picked it up used from a local Chicagoland Darts member - thanks, Nico! My Unichip already has a tune built for it, so...
EC water meth injection kit by ericnyoder, on Flickr

Water Meth Kit Parts by ericnyoder, on Flickr
So where you gonna install this to? I know the port in the TB spacer is a prime spot but then you lose the spot for your boost gauge!

They are Canbust ballasts - I seem to be the only one with errors, but only on high beam They did come with an extra set of wires in the harness, to jump from the factory connector, but mine reached right to the box, so I didn't use them. Is that what you mean by wiring harness?
I would say yes, but im not sure... The ones that I have came with a wiring harness that attaches to the battery and then a capacitor before the lights... but I found that it was useless due to the CANbus ballasts... But did you reverse one of the connectors? I know that with the HIDs they run opposite polarity and have to have on connector flipped to work completely correct!
 

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Discussion Starter · #318 ·
So where you gonna install this to? I know the port in the TB spacer is a prime spot but then you lose the spot for your boost gauge!



I would say yes, but im not sure... The ones that I have came with a wiring harness that attaches to the battery and then a capacitor before the lights... but I found that it was useless due to the CANbus ballasts... But did you reverse one of the connectors? I know that with the HIDs they run opposite polarity and have to have on connector flipped to work completely correct!
This installs in the trunk, and I will use the throttle body spacer, I just have to add a "T" fitting and bring them both in there. I doubled checked and it won't affect readings, as the pressure will be the same with and without the T. The HID's are fine, really, I barely notice, but it is odd I am the only one with errors. Lol. If they are plugged din reversed, they do not fire at all. I may the wire adapter piece to see if it changes anything.
 

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2015 Dodge Dart Aero 1.4T
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This installs in the trunk, and I will use the throttle body spacer, I just have to add a "T" fitting and bring them both in there. I doubled checked and it won't affect readings, as the pressure will be the same with and without the T. The HID's are fine, really, I barely notice, but it is odd I am the only one with errors. Lol. If they are plugged din reversed, they do not fire at all. I may the wire adapter piece to see if it changes anything.
Hmmm, thats really crazy! I wonder why your getting the errors then! But with the T fitting are you sure that there will be no water/meth getting into the hose that goes to your boost gauge? I know when people tapped the PCV to intake manifold line, they had issues with the blow-by oil getting into the vacuum line and causing problems with their gauges!
 

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2016 Dodge Dart GT, 2 4 automatic, Torred
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Love your car brother.

2017 Updates!

I haven't been on much, recently - but I've been a bit busy, both on and off the road. Here are the latest updates of the Dartlene saga:

Break-in' the law! 20% tint upfront, 5% around the back.




Followed the advice from some great reviews - My left ballast for the HID's went out. I traced them down to a Chinese company, and was $20 to replace - half the cost of the cheap kit, so I upgraded to the Xenon-Vision kit. With the discount form this site, it was $80.00 shipped. IN addition, I realized my Eagle Eye headlights convert the socket to an H11. They sent me the H11 at no additional cost - great customer service. I do, however, get a "high beam out" error on every startup, FYI.





I would rub, occasionally, with the family in the car and the trunk full. Someone on FB pointed out it was rubbing on the rear tabs, connecting the bumper to the rear quarter panel. They suggested using a diamond tipped dremel bit, which I did not have. I used some Amish skill, and hammered that bad boy down. I don't think I'll ever rub, now.



Finally, I experimented with some thick washers, simulating spacers. I really don't think I can go any wider, but it does look good. No rub here, but I was unable to compress the springs enough to tell. This is 5/8":

Just absolutely wicked!
 
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