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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, about 2 weeks ago i was coming up to a red light and my car just shut off, I looked at the fuel pump fuse, etc, tried to start it again and it started up. I scanned it and no codes were present. Fast forward to about 30 minutes ago, i got to work and was sitting in my car waiting to go in when the car just died, cranked just no start, I scanned the car and finally two codes came up, U1110 and U1120. I had to go into work so i couldn’t mess with it but i have my tools with me. Anyone have any ideas what the codes mean? I’ve tried to look them up and got multiple answers from different websites.

Thanks in advance
 

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Since you have no other DTCs, it could be something shorted and shut everything down while you were coasting 5 seconds. Look for harness rub throughs that could have shorted signals and shut the engine down. If you have alfaOBD, check all modules, not just the PCM.

28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics / MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM), / Diagnosis and Testing

U1110-LOST VEHICLE SPEED MESSAGE

Theory of Operation

The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) receives the vehicle speed signal over the CAN C bus from the Anti-lock Brake Module.


•When Monitored:
With the ignition on, and battery voltage above 10.38 volts.

•Set Condition:
The PCM does not receive a vehicle speed signal from the Anti-Lock Brake Module over the CAN C bus for a duration of 4.8 seconds.

POSSIBLE CAUSES

CAN C BUS CIRCUIT OPEN OR SHORTED
ANTI-LOCK BRAKE (ABS) MODULE
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)

Always perform the Pre-Diagnostic Troubleshooting procedure before proceeding. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).

1.ACTIVE DTC

NOTE: Diagnose and repair any Lost Communication or CAN C BUS DTCs before continuing with this diagnostic procedure.

1. Ignition on, engine not running.

2. With a scan tool, select View DTCs.

Is the status Active for this DTC?

Yes

•Go To 2

No

•Perform the INTERMITTENT CONDITION diagnostic procedure. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).


2.CHECK OTHER MODULES FOR LOST VEHICLE SPEED MESSAGE DTCS

1. With a scan tool, check if any other modules have a Lost Vehicle Speed Message DTC present.

Were any Lost Vehicle Speed Message DTCs present in any other modules?

Yes

•Replace and program the Anti-Lock Brake Module (ABS) in accordance with the Service Information.
•Perform the ABS VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Antilock Brake (ABS) - Standard Procedure).

No

•Replace and program the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) in accordance with the Service Information.
•Perform the PCM VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).


28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics / MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM), / Diagnosis and Testing

U1120-LOST WHEEL DISTANCE MESSAGE

Theory of Operation

The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) receives the vehicle speed signal over the CAN C bus from the Anti-lock Brake Module.

•When Monitored:
With the ignition on for more than 2.0 seconds, battery voltage between 6.98 volts and 15.75 volts.

•Set Condition:
The Powertrain Control module (PCM) does not receive a message for the wheel distance traveled from the Anti-Lock Brake Module over the CAN C bus for a duration of 0.4 seconds.

POSSIBLE CAUSES

CAN C BUS CIRCUIT OPEN OR SHORTED
ANTI-LOCK BRAKE (ABS) MODULE
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)

Always perform the Pre-Diagnostic Troubleshooting procedure before proceeding. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).

1.ACTIVE DTC

NOTE: Diagnose and repair any Lost Communication or CAN C BUS DTCs before continuing with this diagnostic procedure.

1. Ignition on, engine not running.

2. With a scan tool, select View DTCs.

Is the status Active for this DTC?

Yes

•Go To 2

No

•Perform the INTERMITTENT CONDITION diagnostic procedure. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).


2.CHECK OTHER MODULES FOR LOST VEHICLE SPEED MESSAGE DTCS

1. With a scan tool, check if any other modules have a Lost Vehicle Speed Message or wheel distance traveled DTC present.

Were any Lost Vehicle Speed Message or wheel distance traveled DTCs present in any other modules?

Yes

•Replace and program the Anti-Lock Brake Module (ABS) in accordance with the Service Information.
•Perform the ABS VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Antilock Brake (ABS) - Standard Procedure).

No

•Replace and program the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) in accordance with the Service Information.
•Perform the PCM VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Since you have no other DTCs, it could be something shorted and shut everything down while you were coasting 5 seconds. Look for harness rub throughs that could have shorted signals and shut the engine down. If you have alfaOBD, check all modules, not just the PCM.

28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics / MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM), / Diagnosis and Testing

U1110-LOST VEHICLE SPEED MESSAGE

Theory of Operation

The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) receives the vehicle speed signal over the CAN C bus from the Anti-lock Brake Module.


•When Monitored:
With the ignition on, and battery voltage above 10.38 volts.

•Set Condition:
The PCM does not receive a vehicle speed signal from the Anti-Lock Brake Module over the CAN C bus for a duration of 4.8 seconds.

POSSIBLE CAUSES

CAN C BUS CIRCUIT OPEN OR SHORTED
ANTI-LOCK BRAKE (ABS) MODULE
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)

Always perform the Pre-Diagnostic Troubleshooting procedure before proceeding. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).

1.ACTIVE DTC

NOTE: Diagnose and repair any Lost Communication or CAN C BUS DTCs before continuing with this diagnostic procedure.

1. Ignition on, engine not running.

2. With a scan tool, select View DTCs.

Is the status Active for this DTC?

Yes

•Go To 2

No

•Perform the INTERMITTENT CONDITION diagnostic procedure. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).


2.CHECK OTHER MODULES FOR LOST VEHICLE SPEED MESSAGE DTCS

1. With a scan tool, check if any other modules have a Lost Vehicle Speed Message DTC present.

Were any Lost Vehicle Speed Message DTCs present in any other modules?

Yes

•Replace and program the Anti-Lock Brake Module (ABS) in accordance with the Service Information.
•Perform the ABS VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Antilock Brake (ABS) - Standard Procedure).

No

•Replace and program the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) in accordance with the Service Information.
•Perform the PCM VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).


28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics / MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM), / Diagnosis and Testing

U1120-LOST WHEEL DISTANCE MESSAGE

Theory of Operation

The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) receives the vehicle speed signal over the CAN C bus from the Anti-lock Brake Module.

•When Monitored:
With the ignition on for more than 2.0 seconds, battery voltage between 6.98 volts and 15.75 volts.

•Set Condition:
The Powertrain Control module (PCM) does not receive a message for the wheel distance traveled from the Anti-Lock Brake Module over the CAN C bus for a duration of 0.4 seconds.

POSSIBLE CAUSES

CAN C BUS CIRCUIT OPEN OR SHORTED
ANTI-LOCK BRAKE (ABS) MODULE
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)

Always perform the Pre-Diagnostic Troubleshooting procedure before proceeding. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).

1.ACTIVE DTC

NOTE: Diagnose and repair any Lost Communication or CAN C BUS DTCs before continuing with this diagnostic procedure.

1. Ignition on, engine not running.

2. With a scan tool, select View DTCs.

Is the status Active for this DTC?

Yes

•Go To 2

No

•Perform the INTERMITTENT CONDITION diagnostic procedure. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).


2.CHECK OTHER MODULES FOR LOST VEHICLE SPEED MESSAGE DTCS

1. With a scan tool, check if any other modules have a Lost Vehicle Speed Message or wheel distance traveled DTC present.

Were any Lost Vehicle Speed Message or wheel distance traveled DTCs present in any other modules?

Yes

•Replace and program the Anti-Lock Brake Module (ABS) in accordance with the Service Information.
•Perform the ABS VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Antilock Brake (ABS) - Standard Procedure).

No

•Replace and program the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) in accordance with the Service Information.
•Perform the PCM VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).
I just took a little break to go mess with it and it still wasn’t starting until I unplugged the connector next to the fuse box, blew air inside the connector and replugged it in. Not sure what that connector is called but i believe it goes to the coil packs and some other stuff. However, it started now, i’m unsure how that plug is becoming disconnected in a way.
 

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Pic of the connector?
Use dielectric silicone grease in the connector if you suspect an intermittent connection.
 

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That is the connector for the engine harness to the PDC. That being intermittent could shut everything down.
I have no image pointing specifically to that connector but this one does show the entire 2.4 engine harness and on the right side, you can see that connector by the PDC. It's called the inline dash engine connector if you want to look at the pinout on the Mopar connector site.
Human body Font Screenshot Circle Slope
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That is the connector for the engine harness to the PDC. That being intermittent could shut everything down.
I have no image pointing specifically to that connector but this one does show the entire 2.4 engine harness and on the right side, you can see that connector by the PDC. It's called the inline dash engine connector if you want to look at the pinout on the Mopar connector site.
View attachment 129834
So how would you go about preventing this from happening in the future? Just clean it good?
 

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If the connector lock tab is not damaged and there is no corrosion on the terminals, the connector might not be the problem. Dielectric grease prevents water from entering and causing corrosion. You should hear a click when it's together correctly. Wiggle the wires while it's running to see if that duplicates the problem. A wire can be broken under the insulation especially near the connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If the connector lock tab is not damaged and there is no corrosion on the terminals, the connector might not be the problem. Dielectric grease prevents water from entering and causing corrosion. You should hear a click when it's together correctly. Wiggle the wires while it's running to see if that duplicates the problem. A wire can be broken under the insulation especially near the connector.
Alright, im gonna cut back the harness to see if maybe something has a cut in it.

I was driving home last night and it cut off again while going down the highway and just the battery light was showing, no CEL. I sat there for a while to wait for my friend since we were driving together but then i started it and it started right up. I’m not sure what’s going on with it. I’m gonna pull on the harnesses while it’s running when I get home to see where the problem is. I just hate there is no CEL or any error messages.
 

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I had a kind of similar switch... car died at a red light wouldn't turn over sat blocking traffic waving people on after 45 mins it somehow started but I only got about a 1/4 mile real rough idle and no compression I could only go 5mph then if I let off gas dead.
Well my 2 nuts on the negative battery side closest to the terminal were really loose I guess but at that time were missing so my mechanic said it's the alternator spot which had no nut so you had 0 charge and that effects everything. Then he put in a new under car ground wire after removing original haven't had any issues except trying to get smog done but I just need my air/fuel ratio adjusted to let my new downstream o2 sensor function but I have to do a drive cycle and I don't know anyone who has a dyno...
So....
I'm not sure if eutoyunr would work or if I truly need it dynoed....
Since there is no where on surface or back alleys anywhere around me to do a drive cycle that has that much open area to coast and not tap break...
Also my oil change indicator hasn't been reset since I don't know when and one of my ture sensors in the pass/rear is intermittent its usually dashes but when light is out iys all good but its more off than on I think I n need a flash but I refuse to go to dealer to have pcm flashed and told my car isn't stock and I need a new cat that was one-third that sent me on this journey then a rebuilt engine with racing and hardened inards performance hoses piping tubing pumps radiator new turbo head basically the engine is brand new refurbished and everything in engine bay is brand new and my car is saying needs drive cycle
So I'm like wtf...
Let me know what you find on this...(your topic in question)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I had a kind of similar switch... car died at a red light wouldn't turn over sat blocking traffic waving people on after 45 mins it somehow started but I only got about a 1/4 mile real rough idle and no compression I could only go 5mph then if I let off gas dead.
Well my 2 nuts on the negative battery side closest to the terminal were really loose I guess but at that time were missing so my mechanic said it's the alternator spot which had no nut so you had 0 charge and that effects everything. Then he put in a new under car ground wire after removing original haven't had any issues except trying to get smog done but I just need my air/fuel ratio adjusted to let my new downstream o2 sensor function but I have to do a drive cycle and I don't know anyone who has a dyno...
So....
I'm not sure if eutoyunr would work or if I truly need it dynoed....
Since there is no where on surface or back alleys anywhere around me to do a drive cycle that has that much open area to coast and not tap break...
Also my oil change indicator hasn't been reset since I don't know when and one of my ture sensors in the pass/rear is intermittent its usually dashes but when light is out iys all good but its more off than on I think I n need a flash but I refuse to go to dealer to have pcm flashed and told my car isn't stock and I need a new cat that was one-third that sent me on this journey then a rebuilt engine with racing and hardened inards performance hoses piping tubing pumps radiator new turbo head basically the engine is brand new refurbished and everything in engine bay is brand new and my car is saying needs drive cycle
So I'm like wtf...
Let me know what you find on this...(your topic in question)
I was sitting in the walmart pickup area waiting for my order when it just died, it would crank but no start. I got out, unplugged the plug and reconnected it and bam it started. I’m thinking there is something wrong with the connector but i’m so confused on what’s causing it. I don’t think it’s disconnecting because it’s still clicked in. Maybe a wire is lose inside of the connector.
 

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It's either the connector terminals or a broken intermittent wire. When it's running, try to wiggle the wiring on each side of the connector to see if you can get it to shut down. Once you have some idea of which side, you can try disassembling the connector. Sometimes a terminal inside the connector gets pushed or bent. Also sometimes a wire breaks right where the terminal is attached to a wire. You might want to visit your local self serve junkyard for a spare connector with wiring at each end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's either the connector terminals or a broken intermittent wire. When it's running, try to wiggle the wiring on each side of the connector to see if you can get it to shut down. Once you have some idea of which side, you can try disassembling the connector. Sometimes a terminal inside the connector gets pushed or bent. Also sometimes a wire breaks right where the terminal is attached to a wire. You might want to visit your local self serve junkyard for a spare connector with wiring at each end.
The connector I mentioned before has a little play in it and when I pull and wiggle them apart without releasing the locking tab the car will sometimes bog down but won't die. I'm gonna try an see if I can depin the connector and maybe repin it with a new stripped end of wire. Worst case I'll find a used connector and repin it myself.
 
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