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In an attempt to help future members and random google searches for this problem I have attempted to put together a complete how to on replacing the clutch slave cylinder. As some of you may know the slave cylinder is housed INSIDE the transmission housing, and not on the outside of the case. It is my hope that the information compiled in this guide will help the DIY guy outside of their warranty to complete this task.


This wiki is for informational purposes only and as such you use this at your own risk

As far as i know and the material reviewed, this is for ALL engines regardless of the header label on the shop manual
I reviewed both the 1.4 and 2.0 sent to me and they were identical.




WHAT are we trying to replace?

The clutch release bearing is considered a "wear item" and therefore may not be covered under the "3-Year/36,000-Mile (bumper-to-bumper) Basic Limited Warranty" ... nor the "5-Year/100,000-Mile Powertrain Limited Warranty"... unless it can be determined that a faulty slave / master cylinder caused the bearing to wear out prematurely.

NOTE: The bearing (MOPAR part #68166658AA) lists for $258.95 ... though they are available online for as low as $168 (+ S&H).
(as of 9-24-14)

Part # 11 below
i2302347.jpg

Actual picture of part:
51879d1435758724-clutch-pedal-issues-stuck-down-floor-image-1323938772.jpg

WHY are we trying to replace this?
This WIKI will be used as a guide to replace the slave cylinder that causes the clutch petal to stay on the floor.
http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/dodg...own-floor.html

******NOTE********
This WIKI will NOT cover the MASTER CLUTCH CYLINDER replacement (Part # 5 in diagram above)

HOWEVER, this WIKI will have the bleed procedure needed if that master cylinder is replaced.

This WIKI was born out of this thread:
http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/dodg...placement.html


Transmission Removal
2.0 trans removal.jpg


Slave Cylinder Removal and install
Slaveinstallremoval.jpg

Transmission Reinstall
2.0 trans install.jpg


Clutch Bleed Procedure
41472d1410791484-maintenance-procedures-dart-clutch-bleed-.1.png
41469d1410791363-maintenance-procedures-dart-clutch-blled-1.png
41471d1410791390-maintenance-procedures-dart-clutch-bleed-3.png

Torque Specs


DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs. New bolt per use
Backup Lamp Switch 38 28 –
Clutch cover-to-Flywheel Bolts 25 18 –
Differential Ring Gear-to-Carrier Bolts 83 61 – X
Flywheel-to-Crankshaft Bolts 160 118 –
Gear Shaft Rear Bearing Retention Bolt 110 81 –
Input Shaft Rear Bearing Retention Bolt 56 41 –
Lower Mount Bracket- to-Transmission Bolts 105 77 –
Pivot Bracket-to-Transmission Bolt 147 108 –


Rear Transmission Mount Bracket-Lower Bolts 20 15 –
Rear Transmission MountBracket-Through Bolt 110 81 –
Reverse Idler Gear Bolt 10 – 89
Shift Cable Bracket-to-case Bolts 20 15 –
Shift Lever Assembly-to-Case Bolts 20 15 –
Shifter Assembly Mounting Nuts 7 – 61
Slave Cylinder-to-Bell Housing Bolts 10 – 88
Transmission Case-to-Bell Housing Bolts 32 24 –
Transmission Drain/Fill Plug 25 18 –
Transaxle-to-engine Bolts 50 37 –
Transaxle to Engine Stud Nut 60 44 –
 

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I'm to the rebuilding process using just the info from this forum. Thank you for the help so far. If anyone can translate the torque specs for the rebuild I would really appreciate it. If already broken one bolt off into my flywheel trying to torque it to 18 ft. Lbs...
 

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I just got verification that at the very least, the clutch to flywheel torque spec isn't right for 1.4l 6speed manual. Clutch to flywheel should only be 12ft lbs. I've broken and stretched at least 4 (brand new) bolts trying to get them to 18 lbs.
125904

My concern is that if the first torque spec is off, will they all be off? This is the first step of my reassembly and I'm hoping the rest can go smoother.
 

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Are your bolts from the dealer or the hardware store? I did find this under clutch specs:
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Are your bolts from the dealer or the hardware store? I did find this under clutch specs:
View attachment 125905
Thank you, this is helpful. Hopefully someone can post a full list of the torque specs for the 1.4l.
I unfortunately had no luck finding the exact bolts, but the replacements (hardware store A2-70) were fine with only 12ft lbs.
These have a rating of 700nm, vs. 1035nm that the stock 10.9 bolts are. I don't feel concerned now that I have the proper spec for this specific bolt.
 

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is there a printable pdf version i can get somewhere?? super helpful thanks for this guide saving me big $$$
 

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FCA no longer has printed manuals and the digital ones are in .xml format not .pdf.
 
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ohhh ok thanks bc when i printed them they were like 1”x11”. i think i’ll be able to print screen shots from mobile to follow along with the video on youtube from salarysthatwrench. thanks for the quick reply. any tips on this job would be great. i’m removed everything and am figuring how to bend these hub nuts to be able to spin them. do you think putting in a lightweight flywheel while i am doing the clutch would make a substantial difference in throttle response? 2.0 6spd 13 sxt
 

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I use a chisel to cut each side of the stakes, them needle nose pliers to break it off. Then clean it up with a dremel disc. FSM says to use new hub nuts but I reuse them. I use a torque wrench 148 ft lbs.
126177
 
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