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***25/10/2015 UPDATE****
After the proper amount of research i would not recommend these any longer. This guide can still be used as a how to for end link replacements. I recommend going with a company that's been around for a while. even NASCAR uses them.
http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/dodge-dart-builds/14611-youngsmith53-aya-build-thread-87.html#post422035

more supporting evidence that these are not up to par.
http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/dodge-dart-builds/14611-youngsmith53-aya-build-thread-88.html#post422799

***7/21/2015 UPDATE****
So i have not had this issue yet but im only running the fronts but i though i would put a link here to some more information on these end links:
http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/dodge-dart-suspension-chassis/26739-possible-sway-end-link-blow-out-shocks.html




So i ordered the Bwoody end link kit from ebay, on Tuesday night and they arrived this morning before 11 am! SCORE!

2015-04-03 11.29.52.jpg

Dont mind the dog in the picture, one was very excited, probably though it was bark box day. So to say they are beefy is an understatement! Like others have said the difference between them and oem is just ridiculous.

42440d1412815367-bwoody-sway-bar-links-rearlinks.jpg
Credit for pic @kx2gonzalez

[placeholder for oem measurement pics]


Here are a few more with measurements and also with a quarter for reference.
2015-04-03 11.31.48.jpg
2015-04-03 11.31.57.jpg
2015-04-03 11.32.24.jpg
2015-04-03 12.31.11.jpg
2015-04-03 12.31.57.jpg


1.) Put on safety glasses, jack up your vehicle.

2.) remove wheel

3.) add jackstands

4.)you will need 2 diffrent size wrenches/sockets for the top and bottom oem ones.
Top: 5/8
2015-04-03 12.57.44.jpg
Bottom: 15mm
2015-04-03 12.57.49.jpg

5.) you will notice when the car is jacked up there is undo load on the bar and that it is somewhat jammed in there at an angle.
2015-04-03 12.55.36.jpg
Angle is tried to be shown here, it was pointing straight down and not coming out.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I had to pre load the suspension on that side to make it correct, i grabbed a 2nd jack and jacked up under the ball joint. i staged this picture after i was done to give you an idea. the hockey puck was centered when i did this for real but i didn't get a picture of how/where i jacked up at.
2015-04-03 12.54.46.jpg

now with the load off the endlinks you will have an easier time removing them but this also gives way to a new problem. the mounting bolt wants to spin in the housing. so you may have to use a pair of vice grips to keep it from spinning when taking the nuts off.
2015-04-03 12.55.11.jpg

6.) remove the old end link, bottom first then the top side.

7.) with the suspension still compressed install the new links. Make sure to get the top on and started first then the bottom. you have to watch for the brake line and the ABS wire.
ABS Wire
2015-04-03 13.01.22.jpg

Brake line
2015-04-03 13.01.26.jpg

8.) tighten with 14mm wrench to 45ft-lb torque spec. information on spec was supplied in the box, once tourqed to spec you can unload the suspension.
2015-04-03 12.59.08.jpg

9,) installed!
2015-04-03 13.13.34.jpg

10.) put your wheel back on and do opposite side.

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Afterthoughts and observations:

The bwoody kits came with anti seize already in the ball joint link. i think they used a copper based one.
I have no idea why the OEM links had different sized top and bottom bolts.

Sadly this is what it looks like when you buy base model cars:
2015-04-03 13.28.57.jpg

as you can see that hole is empty and i do not have a rear sway bar, the install of the rear will be the same as the front. I hope that this helped someone and if you have any questions let me know.
 

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You sure went to a lot of trouble to replace those front links. All I did was set the front on jack stands and left the wheels on. To replace, I just turned the steering wheel to give me access to the one I was changing. Then connect the top first and a little hand pressure on the sway bar to hook up the bottom end. The OEM top nut is smaller because of that bracket it is recessed in side of. Gives you room to use a box end wrench. Did you pull both off before you installed the new ones? Oh yeah, and the studs for the old links take a 5 mm (maybe a 7) allen wrench to keep the stud from turning. The instructions told you about that.
 

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I was rotating my tires as well so I had the wheels off anyhow. Plus how did you get your tourqe wrench in there with the wheels on?
 

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Great posts and pics! I'm subscribing. So, how does the dart drive with your new goodies? These are on my wish list but I don't see many reviews of them here. I need you guys to sell me :)
 

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I was rotating my tires as well so I had the wheels off anyhow. Plus how did you get your tourqe wrench in there with the wheels on?
Didn't have any trouble at all with the torque wrench using a shallow socket and an open end wrench to hold the stud from turning. There was plenty of room. The trick is, you only use the torque wrench to check the final torque on the nut, not tighten it down with the torque wrench.
 

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Nice writeup, and wow, those suckers are huge! I wish I could afford them. Did you remove the end links on both sides at the same time? I've replaced end links on other vehicles before and never had to load the suspension like you did to get the old ones out or the new ones in, but I've always done them one side at a time. Or maybe the Dart's just different. Also, as previously mentioned, if you look at the end of the stud for the OEM end link, you will see a hex socket. You are supposed to use the correct size Allen key on this to keep it from spinning while you loosen the nut. Other designs are similar to the Bwoody, where you use a wrench to keep everything from moving.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Great posts and pics! I'm subscribing. So, how does the dart drive with your new goodies? These are on my wish list but I don't see many reviews of them here. I need you guys to sell me :)
Still in the testing phase, it was raining last night while i was out so i didnt have good road surfaces to get a feel for them. I would imagine it would greatly decrease the body roll, definitely very beefy. I i could pair these up with some sort of active force feedback steering im sure you would feel the difference. If anything they will be nice for when i need to change my shocks as they have a meaty flat spot on the back instead of that stupid allen key on the stud. should be a breeze to take them off and swap struts.

As for selling you on them, i doubt they will ever have to be replaced dude to how the link is built. its a ball and socket design. i put some silicone paste around them as well to keep water and dirt form getting into them, but like i said the selling point is ease of removal for strut replacement. you will notice a difference when you are 'spirited' driving that the front end feels firmer and you can tuck it into a turn a bit more.

As for affordability, maybe ask bwoody for the ebay deal but i remember him saying that they did not sell very well so they may be out of them and not making more. couldnt hurt to ask. 149$ shipped was worth it for front and rears.


Nice writeup, and wow, those suckers are huge! I wish I could afford them. Did you remove the end links on both sides at the same time? I've replaced end links on other vehicles before and never had to load the suspension like you did to get the old ones out or the new ones in, but I've always done them one side at a time. Or maybe the Dart's just different. Also, as previously mentioned, if you look at the end of the stud for the OEM end link, you will see a hex socket. You are supposed to use the correct size Allen key on this to keep it from spinning while you loosen the nut. Other designs are similar to the Bwoody, where you use a wrench to keep everything from moving.
No i removed them one side at a time. I just found it easier with ZERO binding on them so i pre loaded the suspension. Its just the way i did them that worked for me. I know MOOG end links have flat's on them for a wrench as well. these are the first end links that i ever saw the integrated hex bolt in the stud.
 

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Great write up @Bullfrog... I'm hoping BWoody throws a few more of those up on eBay... any idea if you are going to put more up for sale @[email protected]?
 

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$149 shipped sounds like a steal, is that deal gone?
It was on eBay... Not sure of BWoody will be putting them back up there. I'm hoping so since I want to get a set for Aya soon.
 

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$149 shipped sounds like a steal, is that deal gone?
Yeah, like youngsmith53 said, they had them on ebay. maybe if you call them really nice like and say you found a fantastic write up and liked the look they may cut you a deal. never hurts to call and ask.
 

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Hey man, for the same price, just go directly to their website and order the Progress sway bar also if you don't have it already. They sell it for $179.99.
 
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