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For reference I've got a 2014 2.4L Automatic GT, and have about 52000 miles on it. I'm not the original owner, and bought it with about 45,000 miles on it. Nothing alarming on the carfax, and seemed to have had the normal maintenance done along the way. I test drove another Dart near me, and that one felt the same as this one, with a rough idle while stopped, and a slight vibration here and there while driving. So when I drove this one, I wasn't surprised at the shaking, plus I had read and posted here last year before I bought this GT, so I knew what to expect.

So, I know these cars have had issues with the engine mounts, and I started there. I got all 3 Deyeme Racing engine mounts shipped to me this week. After 2 days of sweating to death I got them in. All three OEM mounts were completely shot, the worse being the one under the car as others have said; see pics for new vs. old below. I torqued the bolts to the specs thanks to this thread: https://www.dodge-dart.org/threads/install-of-deyeme-racing-side-mounts-motor-trans.8661/

The first start up felt better, and the vibrations seemed minimal. After driving it for about 10 minutes it warmed up and got progressively worse. The whole car shook pretty badly between 25-40MPH while keeping a constant speed, almost like being on a rumble strip for lack of a description. It will stop shaking when it is given enough gas to make it downshift, or when manually downshifted. And when at a stop light the car was shaking pretty bad as well.

The next day, I cleaned up the throttle body the best I could. I also took the drop-in K&N air filter out, cleaned it and re-oiled it. Doing this did nothing as I suspected, but one less thing to rule out none the less.

I then ordered new NGK spark plugs (changed them out less then a year ago BTW) and new NGK ignition coils. I installed them today and that made a pretty big difference, but it still didn't feel right, so I tried spraying a can of Seafoam directly into the throttle body while the car was running. This made a slight difference and made it smooth out a little more.

So where I'm at now is it feels nice and smooth so long as it isn't between 25-40MPH at a constant speed. There was a vibration in that speed range before the new mounts while driving, but it was barely noticeable. It does feel better over all, but when it starts vibrating/shaking now it sounds like a drone noise from a poor exhaust setup, obviously it isn't, it's just vibrating that bad. When sitting in Park, idle, and in Drive while sitting still there is very little vibrating going on. Weirdly, putting it reverse while sitting still starts shaking the car like it did before changing out the mounts. Basically it is doing the exact opposite of what it was doing before I did all this. My wife took it out tonight for a bit and she said "Are you kidding me? I'm not driving it again until it's fixed."

I'm out of ideas, and sick of working on this problem. The whole reason I switched out the crappy OEM mounts was to get rid of the shaking it was doing at stop lights and what not, not make it 3x worse while driving it down the road now. Could it just be a break in period with these mounts, and they'll soften up a bit and the vibrations/shaking will minimize, or do I have something I missed going on?

The metal piece in the molding in the pictures here, moved without any effort by hand. There was really nothing left of these mounts, and I'm surprised they lasted this long. If you look close the black molding is missing completely in spots on the old mounts. Ignore my Dad, it was a long 2 days, and we were happy it was the last mount LOL!

New vs. old:


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There is an engine centering procedure for when you replace mounts.
See this thread:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well crap, I wish I saw this before I did everything, this is undoubtedly the problem.

Thanks for the info!

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Was that the problem?
Well after following the other thread procedure to center the engine it is still vibrating and shaking the whole car. So in kinda hoping because the engine mounts are really stiff compared to the broken ones I pulled out, that they need to be broken in some.

To date I've changed the spark plugs, ignition coils, seafoamed the gas tank and throttle body, cleaned the air intake and air filter, and obviously got the engine mounts changed, and I'm sure I missed a thing or two. I'm also thinking of having the timing chain looked at next, but I'm kinda running out of things to look at.

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If you are not getting fault codes, the PCM sees nothing wrong. The Deyeme racing mounts are stiff and will likely stay stiff for a long time.
The timing chain should be good for at least 300k miles.
 

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I'm not getting any codes so I've been good there. And yes I'm pretty sure the timing chain is fine, I just mentioned it because it's the only thing aside from the mounts I can think that I haven't messed with of as of now. It is running fine, it just vibrates the car really bad like I had mentioned in my 1st post here. The rest of the things I have changed out are preventive maintenance items anyway so no loss there.

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Have you considered taking it to a dealer or mechanic shop to have it diagnosed? Throwing money at it doesn't seem to be working for you. Just a thought.
 

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I'm done working on it, I just wanted to know if I missed anything obvious here. The spark plugs and ignition coils are good for at least another 50k, the K&N drop-in air filter should be good for few months to a year, and the Seafoam was cheap. Everything I did is preventive maintenance that would have been done at some point anyway. Obviously, the engine mounts were really bad, and had to come out no matter what, I just didn't expect the vibration from the new firm ones.

Reason I pointed all that out is for the price I paid for everything it is almost the same price just for a diagnostic. That was the 1st thing I was going to do until I found out how much it was. I already knew the engine mounts were bad, so i just went ahead and did them. The rest I did because I wanted to see if anything made it better or not. Plus I also don't have to worry about changing anything out or cleaning anything for a long while now.



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At least you know when you take it in what doesn't need to be done. If they tell any of them do then you know they're not telling the truth.
 

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Well after following the other thread procedure to center the engine it is still vibrating and shaking the whole car. So in kinda hoping because the engine mounts are really stiff compared to the broken ones I pulled out, that they need to be broken in some.
Did you happen to get the firm mounts from Travis at Deyeme racing? I believe even the flex ones are much more firm than stock.

I hope this does not get upset at Deyeme Racing, but it's due to the new mounts. Here is a post from him directly.

They'll settle in after a while, but you'll always know you have solid mounts when you're sitting at idle with the A/C going.
And some others from another user on the same thread
Loosened and re-tightened the rear mount bolt. Motor didnt move much, but I also think I may have had the bolt too right, it was pinching the bushing a bit. Vibes are down a bit too, probably due in part to them getting broken in.

Another thought. The worst of the vibrations occur around 8-1000 rpm. If a tune solution could change your idle to like 1100 you'd never even feel them. Still when driving there is very little noticable vibration.
Thought I would throw this out as well, I had left the engine cover off after mount install. I didn't think it would make such a big difference in sound but MAN when I put it back on and it quieted down a lot.
Pretty much, the stock ones are for comfort. They are loose and all they are is soft rubber. Exactly why they were blown out on your car. His are polyurethane, so they are very strong, stiff, and will probably last the life of the car. I only have the rear trans mount in, and I can tell the extra vibrations when I start the car and the AC was left on. Oh it shakes! However, once the car warms up it goes away, at least in my case. My friend replaced all 3 mounts on his Dart and this is why I say it's your new mounts. Because his car vibrated a lot too. Which makes sense right, you went from soft mounts (well they were worn out) and now you have much stiffer ones. The vibrations from the engine will travel more through those mounts vs being absorbed by them. As the above quotes mention, as they break in though should settle down, but I don't think you will ever experience zero vibrations after the upgrade. Just wanted to chime in and let you know that you're not crazy, it's more than likely nothing else with the car. Who knows maybe there is, but those mounts will cause what you're experiencing. It should DRIVE better, however. That could also be a break in thing. I just re read your post and thought it was primarily at idle. Continue to drive it, and even drive it a little harder than normal. See if things settle down, if not let us know!

I just asked my buddy who had it on his car and he said it wasn't too bad during driving, so there might be something else. Possibly check if the bolts can be adjusted like Nepo said in his quote that he thought he had the bolt too tight. Everything is meant to move, so it's possible you have something too tight somewhere.
 

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Did you happen to get the firm mounts from Travis at Deyeme racing? I believe even the flex ones are much more firm than stock.

I hope this does not get upset at Deyeme Racing, but it's due to the new mounts. Here is a post from him directly.



And some others from another user on the same thread



Pretty much, the stock ones are for comfort. They are loose and all they are is soft rubber. Exactly why they were blown out on your car. His are polyurethane, so they are very strong, stiff, and will probably last the life of the car. I only have the rear trans mount in, and I can tell the extra vibrations when I start the car and the AC was left on. Oh it shakes! However, once the car warms up it goes away, at least in my case. My friend replaced all 3 mounts on his Dart and this is why I say it's your new mounts. Because his car vibrated a lot too. Which makes sense right, you went from soft mounts (well they were worn out) and now you have much stiffer ones. The vibrations from the engine will travel more through those mounts vs being absorbed by them. As the above quotes mention, as they break in though should settle down, but I don't think you will ever experience zero vibrations after the upgrade. Just wanted to chime in and let you know that you're not crazy, it's more than likely nothing else with the car. Who knows maybe there is, but those mounts will cause what you're experiencing. It should DRIVE better, however. That could also be a break in thing. I just re read your post and thought it was primarily at idle. Continue to drive it, and even drive it a little harder than normal. See if things settle down, if not let us know!

I just asked my buddy who had it on his car and he said it wasn't too bad during driving, so there might be something else. Possibly check if the bolts can be adjusted like Nepo said in his quote that he thought he had the bolt too tight. Everything is meant to move, so it's possible you have something too tight somewhere.
Thanks for the reply!

I was 95% sure it was the mounts, as the RPM ranges where it vibrates are at the same places before I replaced them, but are a lot more noticeable now, and obviously feels differently due to the firmer polyurethane. It is really apparent above 25 and below 45 when at a stead speed. That also is a lower RPM range when it's at a steady speed, and isn't noticeable at all if it is still accelerating.

Like the posts from that thread, it sounds what I suspected that it is really firm compared to what I had, causing the vibrating to be more noticeable. I'm guessing if Dodge had these mounts from the start, they would have tuned it out.

I got their flex firmness, so I'm glad I didn't get the firmer ones. I did loosen all the bolts to center the engine the last time, and when I tightened everything it was to factory specs. Because the factory mounts are different than the aftermarket mounts, they are probably too tight to those OEM specifications? Maybe when I get some time I'll crawl under the car again and loosen up the bottom mount.

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I had a dealer replace mine long before I had heard about Deyeme. Mine make no noise at all. Granted they might go bad long before the Deyeme's would but the next time I'll buy them from the dealer and install them myself.
 

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I keep coins in the little area below the HVAC controls. When in reverse with A/C on, the coins all start clanging against each other. My wife said "what the heck is wrong with your car?"....I just laughed.

And the cold weather will make it worse...
 

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Thanks for the reply!

I was 95% sure it was the mounts, as the RPM ranges where it vibrates are at the same places before I replaced them, but are a lot more noticeable now, and obviously feels differently due to the firmer polyurethane. It is really apparent above 25 and below 45 when at a stead speed. That also is a lower RPM range when it's at a steady speed, and isn't noticeable at all if it is still accelerating.

Like the posts from that thread, it sounds what I suspected that it is really firm compared to what I had, causing the vibrating to be more noticeable. I'm guessing if Dodge had these mounts from the start, they would have tuned it out.

I got their flex firmness, so I'm glad I didn't get the firmer ones. I did loosen all the bolts to center the engine the last time, and when I tightened everything it was to factory specs. Because the factory mounts are different than the aftermarket mounts, they are probably too tight to those OEM specifications? Maybe when I get some time I'll crawl under the car again and loosen up the bottom mount.

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Yeah it sure sounds like it, but I feel like for the flex ones, it sounds a bit harsh for them still. My buddy says they were rough for the first couple thousand miles though. So It might not be a short break in... lol But he said after that he barely noticed them. He had the firms though, so your experience might be different.

I don't want to say loosen less than factory specs, as that might be bad. But that idea might be something worth trying and just driving around the block or for a short period.
 

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I keep coins in the little area below the HVAC controls. When in reverse with A/C on, the coins all start clanging against each other. My wife said "what the heck is wrong with your car?"....I just laughed.

And the cold weather will make it worse...
LOL, I had coins there too, and I just took them out of the car because of that, much quieter now!

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Yeah it sure sounds like it, but I feel like for the flex ones, it sounds a bit harsh for them still. My buddy says they were rough for the first couple thousand miles though. So It might not be a short break in... lol But he said after that he barely noticed them. He had the firms though, so your experience might be different.

I don't want to say loosen less than factory specs, as that might be bad. But that idea might be something worth trying and just driving around the block or for a short period.
So I did get under there this morning and loosened the transaxle and crossmember bolts by 20ftlbs. Maybe I'm imagining it but it seems to be much better in idle. It is still vibrating at the same areas driving but it seems to be at a slightly lesser extent. Thought about losing the 2 side mounts a little, but I really don't think those will help much, plus I don't want everything too loose.

Maybe I'll get lucky too in a couple of thousand miles with it settling down some.

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