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Discussion Starter #1
So this happen a few times but didn't think anything of it as it was not that bad. Go to give the car gas and then you can hear the car start to slow then it kicks back on.

So today was the big thing that bothers me. Was pulling out of a parking lot and gave the car gas and then it feels like the car was going to stall then it came back on and off and on and off...and when this happen i also saw the odometer flicker like it was going to shut off. Before bring it in to Dodge and telling them its random i want to give them an idea of what it could be.
 

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Codes?
 

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You did not mention which engine you have. If this is a 2.4, oil level is a known issue. It's so easy to check oil level, don't assume anything. You need to take responsibility for such a basic service, especially if you have a 2.4.
Given the spotty dealer cooperation with intermittent problems, you really help yourself if you invest in a OBDLink MX bluetooth dongle and the alfaOBD app to help diagnose an issue. Dealers seem to like to disregard a problem if they can't duplicate it. The more info you have, the chances of resolving the problem are just that much better. The alfaOBD app can get codes from all the modules not just P codes like almost every other app.
 

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Could it be the cold? Mine has been getting easier to stall since it’s so bitterly cold outside...


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Could it be the cold? Mine has been getting easier to stall since it’s so bitterly cold outside...


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Honestly, yes... I would stalling could be much easier as when its bitter cold out everything in the transmission moves slower and engages differently. Im sure you've felt it while driving. I know earlier this morning that I had a similar issue. It was about -3 out here in IL and when I first engaged first gear that the clutch either slipped or I spun the tires due to the way the clutch engages when its super cold.
 

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Up here in NW Wisconsin, it's been much colder, around 15-20 below most mornings. My Neon has a problem the first few minutes, can't even put it in drive without stalling unless I rev it a little. Then once it gets moving the trans doesn't want to upshift. The Darts don't seem to complain even a little. We have 2.0 engines. I wonder if it's the MultiAir on the 2.4 and 1.4? There are engine oil and coolant temp sensors on these engines so you would think the PCMs should be able to compensate for almost anything. If it's only the bitter cold that causes this, maybe it's not worth worrying about. I don't worry about the Neon, it's been doing that for 20 years.
 

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Up here in NW Wisconsin, it's been much colder, around 15-20 below most mornings. My Neon has a problem the first few minutes, can't even put it in drive without stalling unless I rev it a little. Then once it gets moving the trans doesn't want to upshift. The Darts don't seem to complain even a little. We have 2.0 engines. I wonder if it's the MultiAir on the 2.4 and 1.4? There are engine oil and coolant temp sensors on these engines so you would think the PCMs should be able to compensate for almost anything. If it's only the bitter cold that causes this, maybe it's not worth worrying about. I don't worry about the Neon, it's been doing that for 20 years.
My DDCT doesn't like the cold, but the engine runs fine, and I've driven it at colder than -30 degrees Celsius. It shifts slowly, and hold higher RPMs than it otherwise would, but I attribute that to the fact that the shift mechanism and at least one of the clutches uses hydraulic fluid to actuate, and at cold temperatures the fluid is likely less... fluid. I've never had a stall, but the car feels super-stiff for the first several minutes of driving (the suspension also seems to be "California dreaming", so to speak, because it's harsh and clunky at first). Unfortunately, no amount of idling will warm up the transmission significantly, it just had to be driven to warm it up. Needless to say, I try to be super-gentle and smooth with it.

My 2014 Grand Caravan doesn't seem to care about the weather. Whether its a sweltering 40 degrees C or -40, it's pretty much the same. It always sucks, to be sure, but it sucks in consistent ways.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes I have the 2.4. so it just happen again today but I have been noticing it happing mostly when taken turns like turning onto the highway. That's what happen today was turning to go onto the highway but this time my RPM went down all the way then few seconds later battery light came on...any ideas. Also I will invest in the OBD link as I am almost done paying this car off and plan on keeping it. But any ideas about this?
 

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Did you check the oil level on the dipstick? It's possible whoever changed your oil did not put in the correct amount.
Another possibility, when you turn, the engine moves a little on it's mounts. If an engine harness has been rubbing against a metal edge, a wire in the harness could be shorting just when it rubs the chafed wire. Follow the engine harness and reroute if possible areas that are close to metal.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Did you check the oil level on the dipstick? It's possible whoever changed your oil did not put in the correct amount.
Another possibility, when you turn, the engine moves a little on it's mounts. If an engine harness has been rubbing against a metal edge, a wire in the harness could be shorting just when it rubs the chafed wire. Follow the engine harness and reroute if possible areas that are close to metal.
No but I plan on checking it in the AM and will report back.

Also going to order this tonight.

https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-426101-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional/dp/B006NZTZLQ

This the right one? Anything else I need for it?
 

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My aero does this if it's too cold outside and I don't let it warm up a bit. I just start it and sit there for about 5 minutes giving a little rev every now and then, nothing crazy just a little vroom. I even thought it may have been the battery so I got a deep cycle gel battery for marine and cold weather specifically (think optima) to no avail. Just let it warm up and profit. I would still upgrade the battery though. These new deep cycle gel batts are great and uber reliable.
 

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That is the correct bluetooth dongle. You still need the alfaOBD app from Playstore.
Holy shit the app is 49$ wow! Just bought the dongle should get it by Wednesday! Once i get it i can plug it in and see what my car tells me? Also still waiting to check the oil...I live on a hill so its hard for me to do it first thing...Going to have to wait till morning when i am at work to check the oil levels and i will let you know. How many hours should i wait to check the oil...I know doing it in the morning is the best time but can't do it at home.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Checked out yesterday and it was fine. Any other ideas? What would turn the battery light on? Other then the battery? I am going to get that tested as well to rule that out.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So i got the OBD Link and i have installed it. Going to be buying the APP for the phone today. What are the big difference between the Demo and full? Also after i get it install anything i should do at first?
 

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I believe the demo only works for 15 minutes and excludes certain functions. There is a bit of a learning curve because the app is not similar to others like Torque and BlueDriver. You may not get everything you want to do in 15 minutes. First things you want to do is check all the modules for codes. Not all codes set the Check Engine Light.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I believe the demo only works for 15 minutes and excludes certain functions. There is a bit of a learning curve because the app is not similar to others like Torque and BlueDriver. You may not get everything you want to do in 15 minutes. First things you want to do is check all the modules for codes. Not all codes set the Check Engine Light.
Ok going to try that now and i will report back!
 
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