Hey everyone. Just joined so I could come here for help to see if I can figure out the issue before giving up and putting it in the shop. I have a 2013 Dodge Dart Limited with the 1.4l turbo 6 speed manual. About two months ago or so, I was driving and all of a sudden I felt this hiccup happen - went from driving normal to absolutely no power. Even with my foot to the floor I was slowly decreasing in speed. The check engine light then came on. I pulled over, turned the car off and popped the hood. Nothing seemed wrong. So I went and started the car again, and the car went back to driving okay again, albeit there was considerably less power/acceleration, but it still got up to highway speed somewhat fine. I checked the light code and it came up as a turbo underboost code. So I started doing some research, and learned this is a somewhat common issue with these. I saw, on this forum actually, the culprit was the vacuum boost solenoid (I think that’s what it’s called) it’s what has the vacuum lines from the turbo hooked into it. So I ordered a new one to replace it. In the meantime, I serviced the whole turbo. The turbo itself still works perfect mechanically, so that was fine. I noticed the wastegate arm was a little loose so I tightened it up just a bit. Replaced all the vacuum lines and hoses. Etc. Then the solenoid came in. So I put the new actuator on, excited to finally have my car back at 100% and - fart noise the same issue was happening. Every time the car dies and I feel it lose the power, I just have to throw it in neutral (thank god it’s a standard) turn the car off, wait a second then turn it back on, and it “corrects” it (although like I said it still only has about maybe 50% of its power) and I just have to be careful not to use too much throttle otherwise it’ll trigger it again and again. I can still get into high rpm’s, everything else works perfectly fine. It’s just this one issue. I noticed a valve at the base of the turbo that seemed to stick a little bit, but doesn’t make sense how turning the car on and off again would fix that so idk. And dodge doesn’t sell that valve separately, they said I’d have to replace the entire turbo system, which I really don’t want to do. So I think it’s an electrical issue but I don’t know. It doesn’t make sense to me and I don’t know where to go from here. Help? Much appreciated everyone.