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My 2013 Dodge Dart sxt I think the Brake calibers getting stuck because car slow down quick. I just idk if the calibers need to get replaced. And idk if cover warranted

Updated it only get stuck went I got the parking brake on and the calibers getting stuck
 

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If the calipers are locking up with the parking brake on it's possible the cable itself is jammed in the cable's sleeve. I'd advise you have a buddy work the parking brake on and off while you inspect the calipers from under the vehicle (or with wheels off, whichever is easiest for you). You'll see if one side or the other sticks more; from there I'd remove the cables from the caliper linkage itself and see if you can freely move the cables in their sleeves with the parking brake released - if one is jammed (or both) you'll know to change the cable(s). If all your cables move freely, the mechanism for the parking brake is seized on your caliper(s), and they'll need to be replaced. I don't imagine a 2013 would still be covered, generally calipers are considered wear items and have a limited warranty in my understanding. If you don't go OEM, be sure to get a warranty with your replacement caliper, as I personally have had to replace brand new jobber calipers on Caravans at work for the same reason I replaced them in the first place after just a few short months.

If you have any more questions feel free to respond to this post or message me personally. I, as well as many others here, would be more than happy to assist however we can! Keep me posted with any developments!
 

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I am late to the party, but this happened to me. Had to replace the passenger side rear brake caliper, it was the parking brake mechanism failing in the caliper. JC Whitney had the part, 80 bucks + 80 for core. The cable is likely not the culprit, its likely the stupid rotating style parking brake they used...
 

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This just happened to me today. Rear passenger side is slowing the car down creating major heat. its at the dealership now.
 

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This just happened to me today. Rear passenger side is slowing the car down creating major heat. its at the dealership now.
I had this same issue.. what I found was that its the kick-back spring for the e-brake... It starts to seize after time and weathering... if you hit it with PB blaster or penetrating spray it will loosen up and pull back on the cable.
 

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I had this same issue.. what I found was that its the kick-back spring for the e-brake... It starts to seize after time and weathering... if you hit it with PB blaster or penetrating spray it will loosen up and pull back on the cable.
Funny you should mention this... I'm currently waiting on a rear left caliper from Chrysler (2mo backorder at the moment) because mine didn't jam, but the spring itself has lost some of its tension so it only releases about half way. Tried all kinds of penetrants and lubricants, always moves super smooth. Channel-lock pliers on that bad boy and I can move it through the whole range, no stiffness. But if you let it go, it comes off half way and stays partially stuck. Haven't touched my parking brake since I found out and am now worried my right side will seize from lack of movement or my cables will call it quits. GG FCA.
 

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Funny you should mention this... I'm currently waiting on a rear left caliper from Chrysler (2mo backorder at the moment) because mine didn't jam, but the spring itself has lost some of its tension so it only releases about half way. Tried all kinds of penetrants and lubricants, always moves super smooth. Channel-lock pliers on that bad boy and I can move it through the whole range, no stiffness. But if you let it go, it comes off half way and stays partially stuck. Haven't touched my parking brake since I found out and am now worried my right side will seize from lack of movement or my cables will call it quits. GG FCA.
Gotcha... but on another note, i decided to tear into this right caliper this last weekend... Heres what I found.

1. There is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING wrong with the e-brake cable itself... I took the cable hook off the caliper and was able to EASILY move it back and forth within the housing...

2. The part where the "kick-back" spring is attached to is the culprit in my case... The part that is supposed to move back and forth with the spring and get pulled by the cable is seized... I literally have to hit it with a hammer to get it to move...

3. This part is attached and built INTERNALLY into the caliper, so trying to get a replacement part is null and void...

4. I have purchased a "used" rear right caliper off a wrecked dart and will be receiving it tomorrow... I will be doing an install of the new caliper on the car this weekend...

If the caliper is good then I should not have any issues... if not then i am sending it back and ordering a brand new one.

I will take some pictures and show everything that I do so everyone can see what im talking about and what they'll need to do to fix this issue!
 

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I am currently uploading the video for everyone... the new caliper has completely fixed the e-brake sticking issue!!!

Here is my little video!
 

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I had this same issue.. what I found was that its the kick-back spring for the e-brake... It starts to seize after time and weathering... if you hit it with PB blaster or penetrating spray it will loosen up and pull back on the cable.
Mine was NOT the spring, it was definitely the internal shaft that was gummed up, not a speck of rust or corrosion anywhere on the spring. I might even end up re-using the spring if my replacement caliper ever gets here and the spring on it is in lesser shape. Since I'll still have the old caliper, I might try to dismantle it and post some pictures sometime.
 

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Well add me to the list of sticking calipers. My driver side rear this morning locked up on me. I have the DDCT but still use the parking brake to take the stress off the transmission. Ill be taking the brakes apart after the shop closes for the day and see if its the spring or internal to the caliper. Little tip for anyone that has this happen. With the brakes cool to the touch you can reach your hand up there and in most cases move the lever the parking brake cable attaches to and be on your way until you use the parking brake again. Thats how I was able to make it into work this morning without catching my brakes on fire!
 

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Well add me to the list of sticking calipers. My driver side rear this morning locked up on me. I have the DDCT but still use the parking brake to take the stress off the transmission. Ill be taking the brakes apart after the shop closes for the day and see if its the spring or internal to the caliper. Little tip for anyone that has this happen. With the brakes cool to the touch you can reach your hand up there and in most cases move the lever the parking brake cable attaches to and be on your way until you use the parking brake again. Thats how I was able to make it into work this morning without catching my brakes on fire!
This is a must for anyone having an issue. I had to do this a few times until I got fed up and just parked in first gear. If it's still tough, a few taps of a hammer or a good grip with some channel-lock pliers do the job nicely to unstick the cable. At worst you can always disconnect the cable too, but there isn't enough slack in the cable to actually rotate it off of the lever without removing the caliper itself.
My caliper was still on B/O from Chrysler when I canceled it so I dunno about anyone else, but I snagged a reman from my local NAPA (for a HELL of a lot more money, mind you) within three hours of placing my order.
 

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Re: Parking brake cable removal


but all i hear is

and



ITS NOT DAMN ROCKET SCIENCE PEOPLE... the cable its snapped into the bracket, in 2 places. thats it!


pop the spring off using a screw driver. then engage the parking brake. notice on the bracket there are 2 "windows" on the parking brake cable itself there are 2 tabs that need pressed in, but you may have to rotate the cable to get the tabs to appear in the windows. use 2 screwdrivers push the tabs in while pulling the cable backwards out of the bracket. you can get one side done and work the other side and pull. thats how you do it with 2 hands. once its free you can work it out of the bracket since your not fighting the spring and take it off the caliper. the eye hook is a little bit of a pain but its doable.

Yes unbolting the caliper makes it easier but i just get tired of everyone saying that removing the parking brake is a pain in the arse. its not its really simple.
 

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Well, this "simple" swap-out just got a whole lot more complicated for me.

IMG_0037.jpg

See anything missing? The rotor got so hot that not only did it overheat my paint job and peel off the paint, it also expanded so much that 4 of the 5 bolts holding it in place had their heads snapped off!

And secondly, the stupid allen-head bolts attaching the caliper that I was to replace are positioned so the end of my allen wrench ends in the middle of the rear spring, making it virtually impossible for me to break the bolts loose.


IMG_0040-2.jpg

So I'm waving my white flag on this now, I'm not buying more tools for a 1-time job. I'm not losing an entire weekend on a brake job that should only take an hour. Going back to where I bought the car for a warranty claim.
 

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Well, this "simple" swap-out just got a whole lot more complicated for me.

View attachment 72890

See anything missing? The rotor got so hot that not only did it overheat my paint job and peel off the paint, it also expanded so much that 4 of the 5 bolts holding it in place had their heads snapped off!

And secondly, the stupid allen-head bolts attaching the caliper that I was to replace are positioned so the end of my allen wrench ends in the middle of the rear spring, making it virtually impossible for me to break the bolts loose.


View attachment 72898

So I'm waving my white flag on this now, I'm not buying more tools for a 1-time job. I'm not losing an entire weekend on a brake job that should only take an hour. Going back to where I bought the car for a warranty claim.
Did you compress the piston when you replaced the caliper? also, you can buy a simple allen wrench socket for like $3... then you can break those loose no problem!
 

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Did you compress the piston when you replaced the caliper? also, you can buy a simple allen wrench socket for like $3... then you can break those loose no problem!
I didn't replace the caliper, I didn't replace the rotor. I just looked at the situation and ...



Let's also not forget that I'd need to buy a bolt extractor, and new bolts for the rotor.

btw, Still can't figure out how the piston compresses without rotating on the brake pad. Either with the emergency brake or normal braking. There's that pin on the back of the brake pad that stops the piston from rotating....what's up with that?
 

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so you snaped 4 of your 5 lug studs off in the wheel hub? holy crap! there are diagrams on google that show how the parking brake and rear calipers of this type work, where the fluid goes and everything.

there are even special alen head sockets you can get to use a regular ratchet. you can get them at the auto parts store, under 5 bucks.

you will not use a screw extractor you will take the 3 bolts out and replace the hub. at this point your going to trade time for money.
 
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