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Whats wrong with double clutching and how is it a bad habit? I find that the transmission shifts much smoother when doing so and you get less back and forth head throw in doing so. My understanding of double clutching means that you engage the clutch into neutral, let out and engage again from neutral into next gear. Is this not correct? Also I don't see anything wrong with downshifting as long as you match the rev, or rev match as they call it. Fyi I have almost 70,000 miles on my original clutch, I'm tuned and I have never had any slip whatsoever. Don't get it twisted I know how to baby a manual transaxle :haha:
I always thought double clutching was taking two (or more) tries with the pedal to get the car moving from a stop. It's a lack of technique. Your definition of double clutching shouldn't cause any extra wear, though you would put more cycles on the clutch master cylinder, which is a weak point for the Dart.

I had a seemingly experienced performance-type driver tell me once that you shouldn't spend a lot of time with the transmission out of gear when the car is moving. I suppose the reason was to be able to react with either acceleration or braking suddenly if needed. Then again, the same guy sold me a car with a fake smog test. I don't know, on my F-100 three speed, it wasn't always practical to stay in gear. For the Dart 6-speed, it's certainly practical because of the many overlapping gears, but every downshift puts wear on the clutch if you don't match speeds (which I rarely get perfect). So I'm just going to coast to a stop in future, with the car out of gear.

When I was young, I had a year driving a 5-speed Mitsubishi pickup for auto parts delivery. I was probably a little faster on the draw, and I certainly didn't care about the future life of that truck, so I got to where I would only ever use the clutch to get into 1st. For all the other shifts, I could just match the speeds and jam the shifter. I don't think it hurt the truck much, since I did get pretty good at it. I have not tried doing this on my Dart. I am definitely with you on trying to baby the transaxle; I'll do my best!
 

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I am having the issue with no clutch feeling that originally started this post. Before I start trying to bleed the system, I need to know is it possible to get to everything from the top of the car? Or do I need to jack up the car to get to the bleed valve from underneath? I am okay with removing the battery, fuse box, and whatever else to make room from the top
 

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I am having the issue with no clutch feeling that originally started this post. Before I start trying to bleed the system, I need to know is it possible to get to everything from the top of the car? Or do I need to jack up the car to get to the bleed valve from underneath? I am okay with removing the battery, fuse box, and whatever else to make room from the top
The last time i bleed the system i did it through the drivers wheel well. i suppose you could do it from top.
 

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To remove the battery tray, you still need to lift the vehicle and at least partially remove the drivers side wheel well splash shield.
 

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I went with the clutch delay valve delete kit, and tried bleeding the system. The master isn't pulling fluid from the reservoir, so I'm 90% sure it's the master cylinder and not a bad CDV valve or air in the lines. If it was just air I should be able to bleed it out. I will call the dealership tomorrow. Anyone know of other sources besides the wilwood conversion or the dealership? Autozone/O'Rileys/Advance don't have them.
 
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