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the other morning i got in my car and the clutch pedal was almost to the floor and my dart would not go into gear I have a feeling its the clutch master cylinder but I want to know if anyone has any other suggestions on brands that way we dont have this problem again it seems to be a common occurrence with the OEM clutch MC thats comes in the car
 

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I've been searching for an aftermarket replacement clutch master cylinder for the last few days myself. I have yet to find one anywhere for a 2014 Dart Aero 1.4L
 

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I had mine replaced under warranty at 67000km back in September 2014. Today, it failed again. The issue, if you’re not aware, is that the clutch master cylinder is made of plastic and the plastic (and internal seals) fail prematurely because of the hydraulic fluid eating away at the cheap plastic. I doubt the seals themselves are faulty, other than the plastic around them degrading not allowing the seals to seal properly. Unfortunately for me, that part is currently out of stock in the Chrysler warehouse in Toronto (I’m in Canada) and is backordered by at least two weeks...and it failed on my 3 hours from home.
 

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Got a call from the dealership today that they finally got the car in to diagnose what I alr day knew was a leaking cmc. Tech said there was low fluid and some air in the lines. They have the car mobile at the moment, and have ordered a new cmc...but the warehouse here in Toronto is showing a -1 condition. The service manager mentioned this afternoon that the cmc for the Dart is a vin specific key in order at the moment and that he thinks that is because Chrysler may be “investigating” all the failing cmc’s that are appearing. I don’t really know though.
What I’m after at the moment is detailed instructions, from anyone who can provide them, on how to bleed the clutch system as the dealership says the car is mobile, but that the leaking cmc may not get me the 3 hours from where it is to where I live. I’d like to get it home if they can’t get the part in and have the car repaired by the weekend so it’s at least not so far away and my local shop can deal with it. (Mostly so I don’t have to inconvenience anyone to come pick up the car 3 hours away when it is ready). If anyone can provide those instructions to me...it would be appreciated. I looked on YouTube but only found generic instructions. I’m sure it wouldn’t be too different from what I found but Dart specific would be better. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.
 

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The procedure has been described in the instructions for installing the Deyeme CDV delete.
https://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/deyeme-racing/29948-new-item-pf1cdvdlkt-2013-2016-dart-mtx-clutch-delay-valve-delete-kit.html

This is from the FSM

06 - Clutch / Standard Procedure

STANDARD PROCEDURE - BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT


MANUAL BLEEDING

NOTE: A helper is required to perform this procedure.

1.Verify fluid level in clutch/brake master cylinder. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary. Leave cap off.

2.Raise and support the vehicle.

3.Remove the belly pan, if equipped.

4.Remove the cap from the nipple (1) on top of the clutch slave cylinder union (4).

dartclutchbleed1.jpg

NOTE: Do not allow clutch/brake fluid reservoir to run dry while bleeding the clutch. If the reservoir runs dry during this procedure, It must be refilled and the process must be repeated.

5.Have a helper depress and hold the clutch pedal to the floor.

NOTE: Verify the helper understands not release the clutch pedal from the floor until the technician closes the bleed port and signals the helper to cycle the clutch pedal to avoid inadvertently drawing air back into the system.

6.Connect a length of transparent tubing (1) to the bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder union. Insert the lower end of the transparent tube (1) into a clean container to catch the flow (4).

dartclutchbleed2.jpg

7.Press downward on the retainer clip (2) holding the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder union while pulling outward on the hydraulic hose (3) to open the bleeder flow (4). This allows the line to pop out about 1/8 in (3 mm) which opens the bleeder. Any air in the system will escape at this time.

8.Push the line (3) inward until the clip (2) snaps in place to stop the bleeder flow.

9.Repeat steps 5 through 8 at least fifteen times or until air bubbles are no longer visible in the transparent tube (1).

10.Slowly actuate the clutch pedal and perform ten up/down cycles.

11.Apply the brakes. Start engine and verify clutch operation and pedal feel. If the clutch pedal feels fine and the transaxle can be easily shifted from neutral to any gear, the clutch is operating correctly. If pedal still feels spongy or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system, most likely at the master cylinder.

12. Remove the transparent tube (1) from the nipple on the slave cylinder union.

13.Install the belly pan, if removed.

14.Remove the support and lower the vehicle.

15.Top off the clutch/brake master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
 

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Thank you kindly good Sir. I was actually just coming back to say I had just found the exact thread/procedure you outlined. I do thank you though for such a detailed write up. I guess I just didn’t go far enough, or use the correct search parameters when I asked google. Much respect and thanks to you.
 

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Towed the car home a couple weekends ago, had my mechanic here order the part for me so we can do the job ourselves. Still waiting on the part. Not supposed to come in until August 29th now.
 

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Sounds like I’ll be waiting longer now. I called as the cmc was to be delivered to the dealership today (last I was told) and now I’m being told it won’t arrive until September 7th...at the earliest. That’ll be 5 weeks I’ve been without the Dart due to waiting for this damned part! ????
 

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Any update? Just posted a thread a couple days ago because the clutch fluid seeped out of my system from somewhere. I drove it around for about 3 hours, parked it, when I came out the fluid was low and the pedal was on the floor. I topped her off and she is some how fine. I was going to call the dealer tomorrow about the same issue but i cannot be without my car for weeks on end!
 

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It's possible the brake fluid is ending up in the bellhousing if it's leaking from the slave cylinder. That could be messing up the clutch lining. Another possibility is that it's filling up the brake booster. Eventually if you keep topping it up, it may be obvious.

dartclutchhydraulics.jpg

1. brake master cylinder
2. clutch master cylinder
3. slave cylinder/tob
 

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No update yet. I’m still waiting to see if the part actually arrives Friday. (The 7th). That’s a really great picture though showing how everything is connected. Thanks!

I was hoping someone may have the FSM how to for changing the cmc? I’m thinking of attempting it myself (my mechanic and I are having scheduling issues) and the “how to” would be fantastic to have. I have the part about bleeding the clutch, and I’m assuming changing the cmc is pretty straight forward but step by step instructions would be fantastic.
 

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06 - Clutch / CYLINDER, Clutch Master / Removal

CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER


1.Disconnect the clutch master cylinder rod (1) from the clutch pedal assembly.

dartcmc1.jpg

2.Raise and support the vehicle.

3.Remove the high pressure line clip (1) and disconnect the high pressure line (2) from the master cylinder and plug both openings.

dartcmc2.jpg

4.Move the supply hose clamp (1) and remove the supply hose (2) from the brake master cylinder and plug both openings.

dartcmc3.jpg

5.Remove the clutch master cylinder nuts (1).

dartcmc4.jpg

6.Remove the clutch master cylinder (1) from the vehicle.

dartcmc5.jpg



06 - Clutch / CYLINDER, Clutch Master / Installation

CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER


1. Install the clutch master cylinder (1) in the vehicle.

dartcmc5.jpg

2.Install the clutch master cylinder nuts (1) and tighten to 17 N·m or 150 In. Lbs.

dartcmc4.jpg

3.Install the clutch master cylinder supply hose (2) and install the clamp (1).

dartcmc3.jpg

4.Install the clutch master cylinder high pressure line (2) and clip (1).

dartcmc2.jpg

5.Remove the support and lower the vehicle.

6.Connect the clutch master cylinder rod (1) to the clutch pedal assembly.

dartcmc1.jpg

7.Bleed the clutch hydraulic circuit (Refer to 06 - Clutch - Standard Procedure) .
 

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September 7th update:
I called to check on the status of my cmc arrival last night after work. I’m told now that it has been delayed AGAIN and the new eta is September 17th. At this point I have to try very hard to find the humour in the situation. It’s difficult though. Assuming the part arrives when stated (this time), I’ll be going on 8 weeks without the Dart by the time it’s back on the road.
I just can’t understand what the issue is causing the delays. One would think that Chrysler would be on the phone, daily by this point, with the supplier trying to come to some sort of resolution and get all the parts into the waiting cars...
 

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At this point in the wait, I’m going to source a part from a wreckers and use that part until it fails too. Maybe by the time the wreckers part fails Chrysler will be able to deliver the new part I ordered to me.
 

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If this is self service junkyard with a manual trans Dart, I would get the whole trans with the slave cylinder and clutch. I was at a junkyard in Kansas City a couple weeks ago and the cmc was already pulled, but the whole trans and clutch were still there. It was the Muncie yard. I did not have enough time to pull all the stuff I thought I would ever need.
 

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Unfortunately, this particular yard is several hours away from me (about 6 hours). I’m not able to “pick and pull” or I would pull many many parts to use as spares. This yard just lists one in their inventory.
 

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I called the garage today to ask if my cmc is still coming on the 17th...it actually showed up yesterday. It’s now at my home and I’ll be getting the car to the garage (with the part) first thing in the am. I was told they’ll try to do it tomorrow, but if not tomorrow...Friday for sure. (That’s 7 weeks since the cmc failed on August 3rd.)

Hopefully the clutch and slave weren’t damaged by leaking fluid throughout this wait.
 
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