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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings Everyone?

While browsing thru my storage shed I came across a pair of 4" 3way speakers new in the box that I had bought many years ago and never used.
My SXT has the Uconnect 8.4 (no nav or satellite) with the standard 6 speaker setup.
I'm wondering how difficult it would be to connect these speakers to the existing wiring.
Does anyone know if the factory wiring includes speaker hookups in the trunk somewhere (would exist for the 9 speaker alpine system) that I could hook into for mounting to the rear deck?
I've read elsewhere in the forums that people adding amps have used the wiring in the back doors.
Also these speakers are 4 ohm resistance. Does anyone know if 4 ohm speakers can be safely used with the standard Uconnect sound system or are the other factory speakers a difference resistance (8 ohms)??
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for that valuable info starscream5000! That elimates one issue. Now its simply a wiring decision. If I must access the speaker wiring in the back doors then that will also give me the opportunity to add some accent lighting to my rear interior.
 

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My Sub and Amp was tapped into my rear drivers side door.
 

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From the reading I have done, the amp for the 6 speaker setup is not the same as the Alpine system. As such, it only has 6 outputs instead of the 10 the Alpine system has. Basically, even if the wiring is present, it won't be hooked up to anything on either end. I would suggest adding an amp, about 100 watts would be plenty, using a line level converter hooked up to the rear door speakers. A 100 watt amp can be powered easily enough from a 14 AWG power wire. Conveniently, there is actually already a wire run from the engine bay to the trunk for the trailer wiring package and I believe its 14 AWG, might possibly be 12 AWG even.

It could be that all of this is irrelevant though since the stock Alpine's meant to mount there are a 3.5" speaker, not 4". I have seen some 3.5" speakers that require the same size hole as some 4" speakers though, so its possible yours will still fit. If not, you might have to trim the holes a bit, if you want to.

Another thing to add. I'm not sure how much you know about speakers and amps, but I'm throwing this out there so nobody fries their stock amp trying to add speakers. An amp is usually designed to work within a specific impedance range. The speakers are usually matched to the lower end of this range. For car audio, this is usually 4 ohms for all aftermarket systems and more recent stock systems. Home audio is usually 8 ohms. I won't get into why there is a difference here. An interesting thing happens though when you start to add speakers to the same output of an amp. For example, a single cone stock speaker works at an impedance of 4 ohms. The amp is happy with this as it was designed to work with this. If you add a second speaker to the same output, say a 4 ohm speaker, the impedance will do one of two things based on how you wire it.

Option A is to wire it in parallel. The two 4 ohm speakers will be seen to the amp as having a single impedance of only 2 ohms. This is very bad for an amp not designed to run at 2 ohms. Less resistance (impedance in this case) means more current going to the speakers. More current being produced by the amp means more heat. Heat is the death of any electronic item. This setup will work for a short time, but will slowly fry some of the internals.

Option B is to wire it in series. The two 4 ohm speakers will be seen to the amp as having a single impedance of 8 ohms now. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, unless you like your music to have a bit of volume to it. Doubling the impedance will have the effect of roughly halving the power the amp is capable of driving to the speakers, making them approximately half as loud. This likely won't damage the amp if you don't exceed the original power input, but trying to drive the amp too hard to achieve the same volume level as before will damage it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Led86 your input is invaluable, thank you very much.
I do understand how impedance works and I was thinking of (obviously the easiest) adding and wiring the new speakers in parallel but was concerned about the effect on the stock amp.
I also agree with your prediction on the factory wiring (if it exists) not being connected to anything at the amp.
You are also correct on the factory speaker holes in the rear deck and i've checked and my speakers will fit perfectly.
So I've been thinking now of adding an amp. You say there's a wire for the trailer connector? Where do I look exactly to connect? What color?
What I wouldn't give for a full schematic of the dart!
In any case, obviously I will have to access the wiring in the back doors.
Any advice on the easiest way to safely disassemble the rear door panels?
Regards to All.
 

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Led86 your input is invaluable, thank you very much. I do understand how impedance works and I was thinking of (obviously the easiest) adding and wiring the new speakers in parallel but was concerned about the effect on the stock amp. I also agree with your prediction on the factory wiring (if it exists) not being connected to anything at the amp. You are also correct on the factory speaker holes in the rear deck and i've checked and my speakers will fit perfectly. So I've been thinking now of adding an amp. You say there's a wire for the trailer connector? Where do I look exactly to connect? What color? What I wouldn't give for a full schematic of the dart! In any case, obviously I will have to access the wiring in the back doors. Any advice on the easiest way to safely disassemble the rear door panels? Regards to All.
Here is a link to get the wiring schematic

https://techauthorityonlinedemo.extra.chrysler.com/service/repair/wiring/view/classic.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you RedDragon. I had tried that link from other discussions in this forum and it has always said "no results found" after I entered my vehicle info, but this link works perfectly!
On a side note, the wiring diagram for the mirrors is very interesting. Dodge had told me Heated mirrors cannot be added to the SXT as the car's electronics do not support it.
However, as I suspected, the rear window defrost and heated mirrors use the same circuit and control relay from the BCM. Only difference is with heated mirrors there is an extra fuse (10 amp) in the PDC under the hood.
I will investigate this further by seeing if I can add the 10 amp fuse and then check to see if power is available at pin 10 at the mirror electrical connectors with the rear defroster turned on.
 

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Thank you RedDragon. I had tried that link from other discussions in this forum and it has always said "no results found" after I entered my vehicle info, but this link works perfectly!
On a side note, the wiring diagram for the mirrors is very interesting. Dodge had told me Heated mirrors cannot be added to the SXT as the car's electronics do not support it.
However, as I suspected, the rear window defrost and heated mirrors use the same circuit and control relay from the BCM. Only difference is with heated mirrors there is an extra fuse (10 amp) in the PDC under the hood.
I will investigate this further by seeing if I can add the 10 amp fuse and then check to see if power is available at pin 10 at the mirror electrical connectors with the rear defroster turned on.
Hey did you manage to get the wiring figured out for an amp? If needed I can dig out the instructions from the trailer wiring kit I have and scan it in.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No I haven't even been in the trunk as its minus 30 degress Celsius here. But I would appreciate a scan of your trailer wiring schematic.
 

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From the reading I have done, the amp for the 6 speaker setup is not the same as the Alpine system. As such, it only has 6 outputs instead of the 10 the Alpine system has. Basically, even if the wiring is present, it won't be hooked up to anything on either end. I would suggest adding an amp, about 100 watts would be plenty, using a line level converter hooked up to the rear door speakers. A 100 watt amp can be powered easily enough from a 14 AWG power wire. Conveniently, there is actually already a wire run from the engine bay to the trunk for the trailer wiring package and I believe its 14 AWG, might possibly be 12 AWG even.

It could be that all of this is irrelevant though since the stock Alpine's meant to mount there are a 3.5" speaker, not 4". I have seen some 3.5" speakers that require the same size hole as some 4" speakers though, so its possible yours will still fit. If not, you might have to trim the holes a bit, if you want to.

Another thing to add. I'm not sure how much you know about speakers and amps, but I'm throwing this out there so nobody fries their stock amp trying to add speakers. An amp is usually designed to work within a specific impedance range. The speakers are usually matched to the lower end of this range. For car audio, this is usually 4 ohms for all aftermarket systems and more recent stock systems. Home audio is usually 8 ohms. I won't get into why there is a difference here. An interesting thing happens though when you start to add speakers to the same output of an amp. For example, a single cone stock speaker works at an impedance of 4 ohms. The amp is happy with this as it was designed to work with this. If you add a second speaker to the same output, say a 4 ohm speaker, the impedance will do one of two things based on how you wire it.

Option A is to wire it in parallel. The two 4 ohm speakers will be seen to the amp as having a single impedance of only 2 ohms. This is very bad for an amp not designed to run at 2 ohms. Less resistance (impedance in this case) means more current going to the speakers. More current being produced by the amp means more heat. Heat is the death of any electronic item. This setup will work for a short time, but will slowly fry some of the internals.

Option B is to wire it in series. The two 4 ohm speakers will be seen to the amp as having a single impedance of 8 ohms now. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, unless you like your music to have a bit of volume to it. Doubling the impedance will have the effect of roughly halving the power the amp is capable of driving to the speakers, making them approximately half as loud. This likely won't damage the amp if you don't exceed the original power input, but trying to drive the amp too hard to achieve the same volume level as before will damage it.
can u explain why i cant tap the back speaker wires for the back dash i read ur post and it kind of makes sense to me but looking at the wiring diagram for the front speakers the front door speakers look to be tapped into the dash speakers im confused could u please hel clarify
 

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can u explain why i cant tap the back speaker wires for the back dash i read ur post and it kind of makes sense to me but looking at the wiring diagram for the front speakers the front door speakers look to be tapped into the dash speakers im confused could u please hel clarify
This has to do with electrical load. Lower speaker impedance (in simple terms can be thought of as resistance) means more current for the same voltage. Voltage output from the amp will remain constant for a given volume level but the amperage will be higher for a 4 ohm resistance vs an 8 ohm resistance. So, lets say all the stock speakers are 4 ohms. That means if the amp is putting out 10 volts for a given volume level, the speaker will essentially be drawing 2.5 amps. If we reduce the resistance to 2 ohms at the same volume level, the speaker will be drawing 5 amps. Going the other way, if we increase resistance to 8 ohms, the speaker will be drawing 1.25 amps.

This is all important because the amplifier is not capable to supply more than a certain amount of amperage, based on the components used. On a 4 ohm speaker, the amplifier will be fine at say the 10 volt output, but when you connect two 4 ohm speakers in parallel (for a 2 ohm load as explained before) the amplifier will be putting out the same 10 volts but a much higher amperage which could be beyond the limitations of the amplifier, but the sound won't be twice as loud (harder to explain this and I don't fully understand the mechanics behind this part of it).

To answer the question about why the Dash speakers are able to be connected to the door speakers, the designers of the system have probably been very careful to maintain a reasonable resistance that allows the amplifier to work within its limits. The door speakers are likely the same for all versions of the Dart, but the dash speakers will not be the same 4 ohm resistance as connecting these in series or parallel will result in either a blown amplifier at loud volume or subpar performance of the speakers. The designers would have to choose speakers that are a higher impedance for the dash likely to get a resulting overall impedance from the door and dash speaker pair that is compatible with the amplifier.

The other possibility is that the amplifier has actually been designed differently for the 6 speaker systems vs the 4 speaker to allow for a lower, or higher, impedance. I would see this as unlikely though as it would be more expensive than just having the dash speakers custom made to meet the performance specs of the amplifier.

With all this in mind, I am making the assumption that someone were to use off the shelf aftermarket speakers in the rear deck. I would suspect that one could just put a couple of Dart dash speakers in the rear deck with them spliced into the rear doors, which would work if the amplifier is in fact the same for both 4 and 6 speaker systems.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I completely agree with led86 on his assessment of the darts design and probable dash speakers in the reardeck in parrelel with the rear door speakers. Excellent post.
On the mirror question, I'm very curious as well and I really want open up my driver front door (properly and damage free) to test my suspicions that all the circuitry exists to simply replace and plug in new heated mirrors with the led turn signal and courtesy puddle leds. Im waiting until I've decided exactly which accent lighting I want to add to my interior door panels to dissaemble the door and test the wiring. Will definitely let you all know my results.
 

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how hard to swap mirrors?
 

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how hard to swap mirrors?
I've done the swap. It is simple. 3 bolts and the electrical connection per mirror. The puddle lamps and heat are plug and play. The blinkers however need a wire added to work. (I'll be looking into this more come spring, as I'm in Michigan and don't have a garage to pull my door panels off in...)
Any other questions please see the thread "adding heated mirrors" (sorry, not sure how to link it from the phone app...)

"Yesterday don't mean shit, cause tomorrow's the day that you have to face!"
 

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I am going to attempt this very soon I plan to line in to a 4 channel amp bridge two channels to a sub and use the other two for the rear deck. I have no diagrams or instructions so I am going rogue on this one.
 

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