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I've been having a problem, where my AC is MUCH colder while I am driving. When I am idling, the AC is cooler than the air outside, but it's significantly warmer than it was when I was driving. Has anyone else experienced this? It really sucks for city driving on hot summer days.
 

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@mackpine do you have a 1.4t, 2.0 or 2.4 also are you DDCT, Power-tech or Manual? Please supply us with the needed drivetrain data and we'll help ya out/understand as much as possible... :)
 

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@mackpine -

You never filled out your user profile ... so we don't know what Dart model & engine you have ... or what geographic location you live in (dry or humid climate) ... so it will be a bit difficult to diagnose your AC issues.


EDIT: I see from some of your earlier posts that you live in eastern Canada ... and have a 1.4L MultiAir Turbo equipped Dart.



At any rate, I have a 2013 Dodge Dart LIMITED with the 1.4L MultiAir Turbo engine and the "Dual Zone Auto Temp Control" Air Conditioning option ... and even when it's over 95°F outside, my A/C [set on "MAX A/C"& the fan at 7 ("full blast")]:

57ChryslerDart's MAX AC settings on a hot day.JPG

... will "freeze" the driver & the front seat passenger ... whether I'm idling or cruising on the freeway at 70 mph.

Note however that my fuel economy really suffers when the A/C is on (i.e., that little 1.4L has to work extra hard to drive the A/C compressor).
 

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i know it's not addressing the problem but have you tried using the recirculation button?
 

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Your best bet is to go get a thermometer and put it in your vents and do some data logging on temps to better give your mechanic an understanding of what its doing.
 

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Firstly...the compressor is run by the motor, meaning the higher the RPMs the faster the compressor will spin.
Second... the condenser (AC equivalent to a radiator) works much better when there is airflow going through it, meaning the refrigerant will condense more completely resulting in better "cooling" upon vaporization

It's normal to have an automotive AC system run slightly warmer while at idle due to these facts :)
 

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Firstly...the compressor is run by the motor, meaning the higher the RPMs the faster the compressor will spin.
Second... the condenser (AC equivalent to a radiator) works much better when there is airflow going through it, meaning the refrigerant will condense more completely resulting in better "cooling" upon vaporization

It's normal to have an automotive AC system run slightly warmer while at idle due to these facts :)
This is right on the money.
 

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Hi: This thread is almost a year old, but my Dart is doing something similar. At first it was plenty cold for the driver, and passenger, but late last summer it changed, to the point where the passenger side blew warmer air than driver's side. The dealer applied a software update, and now neither side will keep up when outside temps are above 65 degrees F, Yes, 65 degrees...

This is on a 2015 GT Auto, with climate set to sync, recirc or outside air, and climate temp set to LO with all vents fully open.

I was in a carpool last summer, and my carpool buddies have verified the issues.

we are all IT professionals, so screens and settings do not scare us. LOL
 

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While this is just my opinion, but I don't like to run A/C until it's at least 70 F outside temp. Only exception is when due point is above 60.

Anyway. @wkand, is your problem similar to OP's where the issue is more or less during idle and stop light traffic? If that is the case, I'd consider that to be fairly normal (at least to a point).

Now, due to the fact that these cars engine bays run MUCH hotter than the cars of the past, this is also something that can eat up an A/C system in a car fast. Some tips and tricks to help everyone out: If you are running your A/C, turn it OFF about a mile before you park your car. Reason why: When you initially turn off your car, the temp in the engine bay will actually go up significantly before it will start going down due to the fact that your car is now parked and air is not running through the bay like it was when driving. A/C systems rely on high pressure, and tight fittings in thin aluminum lines. If you shut the car off while the A/C compressor is running, you could easily (due to the extra engine bay heat) go well above what the fittings were meant to hold, and create a leak in the system.

Personally, I won't even run my A/C when doing in town driving if I can avoid it.
@wkand: If your problem is during all driving conditions, you're probably low on refrigerant. I'd take it to a proper shop, have them check the system, and if it needs to have some refrigerant added, they will add some that contains a dye. If there is a leak, they should be able to detect where it is and help you fix it.

I'm one of those types that believes a shade tree mechanic should not work on A/C systems due to Federal laws that regulate the chemicals. Always have it check out by a professional who has the proper tools.

Though I'm not against figuring out what the issue is, having the shop evacuate the system, and then repairing the flawed part. That's something I've done a few times to save a few $.
 

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Thanks for the reply!!

I live in Everett Washington, 25 miles north of Seattle. We are getting very hot weather (for us) the last 5 years or so. As a kid here 50 years ago, if you did not have AC, you did not suffer much, LOL. Might be 2 weeks all summer in the 80's. Now it is 3-4 months solid. Fairly high humidity too.

1) I at first only had an issue with the AC on the passenger side being 7 degrees warmer than the drivers side. Two local dealers said that is normal since 6 other Darts on his lot did the same thing. Since that time the dealer has done several software updates, unrelated to the AC issue. The last update claimed to affect it,. and made it worse

2) The AC has become inoperable under all conditions. I only have 5K total miles on this rig, so back to the dealer it goes!!

I have tried two local dealers for the first issue, as well as FCA in Michigan, and neither can give me a constructive answer on the first issue. They all said there is not factory fix for it therefore it MUST be "normal". Yet my brother's 2013 Charger does not do this. One of the dealer reps said this is common on all newer cars. Don't think that's true either. I have a 2013 Chev Impala, that will freeze your fingers solid if that's what you want.

Regarding outside temps, i went to a picnic last weekend, Temp was 90 degrees F. The AC in my Dart was blowing warm air.

I agree it could be a system charge issue, but it is still under warranty, so I'm not touching it.

My 1994 Ford Ranger AC has never been touched, has 150K miles, driven in all sorts of conditions, and still blows very cold air.

My former 2001 Buick Regal also had no AC issues at 100K miles, until the compressor completely gave out. I was told that it was a continuous run type compressor with no pressure cycling.

My reason for posting here was not to try to diagnose or fix it myself, but only to get other's experiences with similar issues that I might be able to pass to the dealer. Agree that fixing auto AC requires a license, and evacuation facilities.

Thanks!!
 

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Forgot to answer the following:

Anyway. @wkand , is your problem similar to OP's where the issue is more or less during idle and stop light traffic? If that is the case, I'd consider that to be fairly normal (at least to a point).

Agree, I expect less performance from AC at slow speeds. Most of my driving is 45 MPH and above. I am surrounded by freeways and state highways.

There are some things about the design of the AC that make sense, like the relative small size of thee condenser coil. That reduces the heat load on the engine.

Also it appears one of the SW updates cuts out the AC when engine temps get above 130 or so, so maybe that is exposing the real problem, where it is a low charge, or failing compressor.
 

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I would guess it's a low charge.

I've heard a few BMW people complain about the temp difference from driver side to passenger side, though honestly, I can not figure out why/how that happens. So far that one is beyond me. However, most of them have said that recharging the system fixed the problem.

I would go to your local dealership and push them to check the system for refrigerant, and re fill it. Hopefully they will do the right thing.
 

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I would guess it's a low charge.

I've heard a few BMW people complain about the temp difference from driver side to passenger side, though honestly, I can not figure out why/how that happens. So far that one is beyond me. However, most of them have said that recharging the system fixed the problem.

I would go to your local dealership and push them to check the system for refrigerant, and re fill it. Hopefully they will do the right thing.
OK, thanks for the insights, especially the Bimmer thought. i have a friend who is into Bimmers, interesting to see what he has to say.

It especially seems like a compressor/low charge issue since it is not cold under any conditions now. I would also want them to check for leaks since the car only has 6K total miles on it...
 

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Any respectful shop that does A/C checks for leaks before and after putting in refrigerant. The machines they use will recycle the stuff that was in the system, capture it, then put a vacuum on the system for about an hour to see if the fittings will hold. If the system passes the test, the machine will allow the A/C system to be filled. So, yeah, it shouldn't be difficult for them to figure out what is going on. However, the dealership may not have the A/C tools, as some don't. The reason they may be giving you a hard time is because they sublet out their A/C work to a local shop, and will have to pay that shop to have your car looked at, regardless if it's a warranty claim or not.
 

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Yes, you are right about some dealers farming out AC work. I forgot about that. I had another AC issue with a car years ago, and a dealer sent me to a small shop.
 

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Woooo Hooooo!!!!!

Had an appt at the dealer today to look at the AC again. I recommended that they look at system charge. I don't think they really paid much attention to my recommendation, BUT they DID check system charge, which was low (surprise, surprise, surprise!)

Turns out the fitting at the compressor was loose, and most of the refrigerant had leaked out. They corrected the loose fitting, recharged the system, and it now blows 42 degree air out of BOTH right and left climate zones!!

So, the answer that sometimes new cars are not equal temp out of both zones is officially declared bullshrimp....

I intend to follow up with FCA on this.

Thanks for all the help everyone!!
 

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See one issue I have been fighting with the dealership is on my 2016 Dodge Dart GT, if I have the Max AC on as well as the sync button on and I try to use the touchscreen to adjust the temperature, it will drop back down to the low setting from whatever setting I originally put it to, the dealership keeps telling me im confusing the car, but the owners manual basically states that if its in max AC and you change the temperature, it will turn off the Max AC but keep it at the setting I selected. Is anyone else having issues with this ?
 

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Off the top of my head I think this is how my car behaves as well. When I have max AC on and I touch anything it will revert to the previously used setting before I turned max AC on. This may be a discrepancy between the software that controls the system and the documentation. I will try to remember to try this out when I get in my car this afternoon.
 
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