How did this end up so far? Still have the issue, did you ever look into wiring/connectors?
My issue, I start my car, fan starts, 45 seconds later it kicks into the actual speed that it is set too, and then stays at the speed unless I stop for food/gas/etc where I am shutting my car off and then back on...
Have replaced resistor module with no difference other than my 2 lowest settings work now, they did not before.
Sound similar to what you have/had going on?
RANT THAT HAS DETAILS:
Of course, I tried my hand at it. This ain't rocket science. It's plug and play modules and connectors all over this car. I ordered a blower motor, blower motor control module, and the HVAC system controller module from Lakeland CDJR in Florida. They have the best prices. I replaced the blower motor, blower module, and the HVAC controller that is hidden behind the A/C controls in the center stack. Grrrrrrr. I have AlfaOBD so the proxy alignment was a snap.
All of these failed so I started with the dealer and they replaced the under hood relay/fuses (which I missed), and blower motor to the tune of $1,100, criminals. But that did get the blower working. When I got back home the check engine light came back on. I took the car back three more times and each time they fed me a boat load of BS. They told me that I did not use OEM parts. I said I most certainly did use OEM because I bought them from Lakeland CDJR. I showed him the boxes and the receipts. He literally said to me, "Yeah, your gonna have to get OEM parts in there." I said, "Hello? Are you really this obtuse. We just discussed this." He replied, "Yeah buddy, get OEM parts in their and that should solve your problem." I do not like this crook.
Took the car home and broke everything down and confirmed that each and every part was OEM. The Dodge symbol is embedded in virtually all OEM parts. I took pictures, put it all back together and went back to the dealer. This time they said it was my BATTERY. Yeah it seems my battery which starts perfectly BTW, is the problem. They stated that when you start the car, the voltage on the battery drops to 10v and THAT is what is triggering the blower motor fault code and triggering a check engine light. "That drop to 10v is what is triggering a blower motor code? Not low oil pressure, or tire pressure, or brake system issues. It has to be the blower motor at exactly this point in time. I looked him in the face and told him I couldn't believe the stuff being slung by this dealer."
Never EVER have I been to a good CDJR dealership. I've tried them in ritzy neighborhoods and regular city neighborhoods from two states and they all sucked. They are all criminals. Now Toyota, there is a fine experience! Wife recently bought a Corolla H/B in that wild blue color you see everywhere. The service they provide is superlative. At any Toyota dealer we have been two, in
two different states. My next ride is a Yota.
RANT OFF
So, I got a recommendation to go to a mechanics shop and for a around $450 they worked on it, and the check engine light stayed off for a few days but came back on. Their policy states that if you have to come back for the same issue, there are ZERO labor charges with the exception of parts. These are high end techs who work on Porsche, Maserati, Lambo's etc. They will buy the parts, install them and test. If they don't work they send them back. They replaced everything I replaced and CDJR replaced. None of this worked.
They told me what kind of high end cars that they work on but that "they have NEVER seen anything like this". The owner insists I give him the time to figure it out. It appears that they do not like defeat, especially on this car. They've had the car in their possession for 2+ months now. They check in with me every Friday. LOL I
f they can wrench on a Countach they are more then welcome to work on it as long as they want to free of charge. Luckily I'm retired, I have access to another car so these high end mechanics are MORE than welcome to keep trying their hand at fixing it. Here is what I have learned from them so far.
Anything related to that fan can be easy or truly a nightmare. Check these things...
1. Check and or replace the relays in the under hood power distribution center (PDC) for the blower motor. There is a chart on the inside of the lid.
Maxi Fuse - F07
Maxi Fuse - F83
Relay - T30
I may have missed a relay, look the lid over carefully for other blower motor relays. The T30 and it's socket may look burnt. Just replace all three, however, if it is burnt the contacts may need to be cleaned and that's not easy. Another area of concern is the actual PDC itself. The part that holds all of the relays and fuses, they don't make that anymore. It's to the junk yard you go. They replaced my PDC from a junk yard that actually had less miles on it. That didn't work.
2. I see that you replaced the resistor, awesome, now replace the blower motor itself if you have not done so. Between the blower, blower module, and relays/fuses it may just solve your problem. Don't worry about the HVAC controller at this point. Always disconnect battery before working.
That is all I know at this point. I will come back with an update if and when they figure it out. Good luck!
