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Just the ones that look like eyelets. Blue is used on any wire end connector or eyelet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Just the ones that look like eyelets. Blue is used on any wire end connector or eyelet.
what would be the best route to go about getting to the grounds? is this under the middle console? should i put it on a lift if it's under the car?

We just started it up and the HVAC and steering wheel controls wasnt working. We then drove down the road a little ways and everything started working.

the same U0164 and U0402 (the lost connection to steering wheel code) was on and I cleared it.
 

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The grounds are likely accessible under the console or under the center stack, just follow the harness. So many things seem to be intermittently losing connections, it almost has to be grounds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
The grounds are likely accessible under the console or under the center stack, just follow the harness. So many things seem to be intermittently losing connections, it almost has to be grounds.
May I ask what voltage should the car have when it's running? I think I may be starting to notice a trend. When it's 13.5- it starts having issues. HVAC going out, radio restarting constantly. When it's 13.5+ it seems to go away.
 

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It could be because of a smoother RPM and less vibration at faster engine speeds. The alternator charging voltage is controlled by the PCM but at lower RPMs, less than 13.5 volts may be all it can do. The fact that your alternator is charging above 13 volts is a good thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
It could be because of a smoother RPM and less vibration at faster engine speeds. The alternator charging voltage is controlled by the PCM but at lower RPMs, less than 13.5 volts may be all it can do. The fact that your alternator is charging above 13 volts is a good thing.
Hmm okay. I am documenting everything. It may have to go to the dealership to see if it's a BCM issue. I'm going to try and check the grounds before then. I just have to find time. Car issues are so frustrating. Especially when it's something like this!
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
It could be because of a smoother RPM and less vibration at faster engine speeds. The alternator charging voltage is controlled by the PCM but at lower RPMs, less than 13.5 volts may be all it can do. The fact that your alternator is charging above 13 volts is a good thing.
So, I called Crutchfield today to get some expert advice on a wiring situation we have in our radio. We have this plug in our radio Axxess XSVI-6523-NAV Wiring Interface Connect a new stereo and retain Retained Accessory Power in select 2013-up Ram 1500 models without the factory touchscreen display at Crutchfield.

The car had the same radio go out 3 times before within a 4 year span...really it was more like the last 2 years.

Anyways, we pulled the radio out yesterday to look for the ground wire in behind the radio. We did not see any, but we got to fooling around with the wiring harness. We THINK we noticed that everytime we smacked on that Axxess box that the "open door" message would flicker/come on (NOTE: we did have the door open, but the message would go away after the door being open for so long, everytime it was hit the message would come back up). Crutchfield told us that it could be because of that box. That box is the "king" of power when it comes to the radio. That in return that box could be causing issues else where in the car as well. Too much power, too little power causing the computer to over work/under work i guess is how i took it? It seems when the radio restarts, the battery light comes on, and then it triggers issues with the lights and stuff.

We are going to try and test that box sometime today. That's easier than taking everything out of the middle of the car and checking for a ground right now. If it's not the box, then we will be checking the ground before taking it to Dodge. I know i'm probably very redundant, but I am trying to log all the issues that's going on right now so other people can look back on this thread and hopefully get something out of my jumbled mess.

I do appreciate your continuous help on this. It's really helped me get my gears turning on what it potentially could be. It's gotten me to look up youtube videos on how to test things, and read many articles on here over the similar problems. All in all, you've been a big help.
 

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Hmmm, Darts don't seem to like aftermarket stuff. Look at all the problems people have with LED conversions.
 

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This is a lengthy post about issues...So, hopefully I can make sense.

My fiance stated that about a month ago her car was acting weird. Sluggish on start up. The usual cluster light/o'meters flickering. Around this time her radio went out...again..for the 3rd time. It's a kenwood DNX692. We've had 2 of the same radios. Both have went out. They just don't turn on anymore. I thought it was weird that this happened around the same time.


Last week, she got in her car to leave for work and it wouldn't start. I later jumped the car off and took it to o'rileys. They checked the battery and the alternator and said everything was good...the battery was just low. That same day I took out the radio because we had a new JVC on the way. I put the car on a battery charger while I was taking the radio out. I drove the car to her work later and it worked fine. Later we rode back to the house and the battery light came on again.

Day 2: The next morning she went to work and the battery light was on again. This time her blinkers stopped working. So, I go get it and put it on the charger to sit over night.

Day 3: I crank the car and everything seems really good. No battery light. No flickering or anything.

Day 5: A day has passed without issues. Her radio came in so I install it. This project probably took me 3 or so hours. I tested the radio out of the dash. I had to crank the car to check the reverse camera. Everything checked out fine. I then took the key out of the car. I noticed while I was putting the radio in the dash, the dash lights was flickering on and off saying "door open". The door was open, but it kept coming up and then turning off. The key was out of the car.

Anyways, I continue. I start the car with the radio fully in. Everything is working with the radio, and the flickering didn't happen again.

Day 6: My fiance goes to meet up with some people to go shopping. She leaves her car. On the way to the meet up, her battery light comes on. The radio started acting weird. Her steering wheel controls stopped working. The radio turned itself off and back on. Once it restarted, the battery light went away and her steering wheel buttons started working.

Later that night/now: She goes to leave the meet up and come home. The car cranks fine, but the battery light is on, the engine light is on, and the heat didn't blow anything at all. Her cluster lights where dim, there was no bright or running light indicators on. The blinker lights also did not come up on her dash. She felt that she also had to push the gas and the break peddle extra hard just to work.

I ran a code reader on her car when she got here. It gave me a "error". We was standing outside of the car talking, and the dash lights where flickering and the radio was on without the key being in the ignition.

Here is some side notes: A few months ago her heat stopped blowing (no battery lights or anything), just heat stopped working. I checked fuses and everything. I eventually took the blower moter out from under the middle part of her dash at the floor (i cant remember what the name of the part was). I hot wired it to another battery and it instantly started turning, so I knew the motor worked. I put it back in the car and bam it started working again. No issues with the heat since today.

Last note, everything I went to put some type of jumper cables on the car whether it was jumping the car off that one time or every time I have put the battery charger on the battery, it has sparked. So the car is still drawing power from somewhere.

I don't think it has anything to do with the radio. Not that I don't think i could of messed up, it's just I followed the wiring from before. Same color to same color. I didn't have to make any of my own decisions lol. I believe it has something to do with the battery. I was told that the battery's on the dart are good for about 2-3 years. She has never replaced her battery before. I just hope it something like that and not the computer.

My father believes it is the computer going bad. He thinks since the tester came back with error, that it shouldn't do that. Plus we already went to O'Rileys to get it checked. If it is the "computer"...which would it be? I just read something a Body Control Module (BCM)? Not sure, but it sounds like that would be computer that went out sense that deals with the electronics of the car.


UPDATE #1 (Still the night of last above): The battery charger was light up with "full charge", so i unplugged it. I have checked all the fuses that have anything to do with the BCM and the ECM. All was fine. I also plugged in a little cigarette lighter device that test the battery and the alternator. I wasn't able to crank the vehicle due to people sleeping in the house and I was in the basement, but the first time I went down there and tested it just on "acc" it read 11.5v then it moved to 11.8v..showing "med" in strength. I went down there a little later and tested again and I got 12.3v. While my father and I was doing this, he noticed that the ground cable next to the battery at the end that was attached to the side of the car looked a little corroded. I took a picture of it, but realized that it didn't save so I will get a picture of it tomorrow. We are going to take the it off, sand the painted bolt that dodge put on there, and see how bad the corrosion is. Sadly, it seems that we are in a long phase of trail and error until we can get to the root of the problem. Here's to hoping it's just the ground cable.

Update #2: I figured out the HVAC issue. There was no fuse in F83?!?!?! How did it just disappear? lol. It worked yesterday morning, but not last night. I have no idea where the fuse went.
Now to the battery.. My father has some fancy code reader. It checks the battery and the alternator. It had me turn the lights on and off, crank the car 3 times, and then it gave me a status. It told me the battery was bad. I just took it to O'Rileys Monday of last week. I tested the battery 4 more times just to verify and I took the reader to another car to see if it changed the status (the other battery was good). I got bad on all test. The alternator tested fine. I also had another reader in the DC outlet. It was registering 14V when the car was on, and would hover around 12.5v but drop below the threshold with the car just on run.

I plan on going to O'Rileys to get a fuse for the HVAC and having them test the battery again.
I also sanded the corrosion off he cable and nut of the ground wire. It wasn't alot, but there was some.

Update #3: I got a fuse and put it in. The heater is working good now. O'Riley's confirmed that the battery was bad. I got a new battery. My fiance was leaving the house and her car started acting a weird again. The battery light would flash on the dash and then go away. The A/C lights, thermostat knob, and the other would go on and off. The radio was turning on and off as well (Here is a video of the issue: video-1612760822). A engine code was on as well.

I plugged in a code reader. I got the code U0164 (lost communication with HVAC Module). This code came up after I erased it. Not sure why this code is coming up and only this code? The heater is working.
Anyways, I also ran the battery tester. The battery came back good. I also ran a alternator tester and it came back good. After I did that test, the battery light went away and appeared to be running normal now. Could it be because it just needed some juice because it's a new battery...has to get settle in in a sense? She drove it home and she said everything appeared fine. She sat in the car to make sure everything turned off.

Side note: i believe there was a stored u0420 code as well? but I believe we cleared it, and never came back.

Update #4:
oday it worked fine. To work, to the gym, to our house we are remodeling, but on the way home from that house the heater stopped working and the battery light was on. The dash was flickering as well.
I plugged up the reader when we got home and got the u0164 code (lost connection to HVAC Module). I cleared the code..and i just for whatever reason revved up the engine to 2000RPMs. The battery light went away, the cluster light up brighter and heater started working.

Update #5: Everything started up fine. She is on her way to get me to go to a appointment. She said that mid driver her radio went out and her battery light came on. The battery light is blinking on and off and when it does it takes the heater/air lights with it. The heater its self is working.

thanks everyone


Thanks everyone for reading all of this. I appreciate all the help.
I worked for a dealership installing GPS systems on the cars for sale for easy retrieval upon repossession and if they are installed wrong or on any dodge vehicle this is exactly what would happen. Search under the dash for a small black box wired into the ignition switch or fuse box. Usually has small blinking light. To they are hooked up to a constant 12v source and will drain the battery as well as make everything else whacky. I can only imagine how many people are dealing with such a horrible headache. Hope this helps
 

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These cars love electrical issues. Get in there. Look for exposed wires, wrap them. Double up grounds. It's more wire issues than part issues most of time. I bought a used harness. Wrapped it all up to make more durable and last longer, than you swap them, and do the same to to one you took out. The connectors lose connection strength. The insulation on wires, dry up and catch then fall off leaving exposed wires. These things runs hot. So wires don't hold up to good. I'm on 3rd battery and this one has outlasted the other 2 together. I find that with my car, when you're thinking a component failed, check the wiring. Save time and money.
2016 Dart RALLYE 2.0l, 205,000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Hello everyone! It's been about a month since all the issues started. I believe about 2 weeks ago we fixed it. I've held off on giving a update to make sure that it is fixed, but after about 2 weeks I believe it's okay to go ahead and post. We had a major snow storm last week, and the car cranked fine in the very very very cold weather.

Anyways, here is the update.

There was a "Park" white wire that was tied into the BCM area and ran right under the cluster to the radio harness. It was installed by a radio place who the dodge dealership uses. That wire was nicked and had bare wire exposed.

The Axxis power control box was also intermitting. If you turned it one way you would lose your voltage and if you turned it another way you would get your voltage back. We was having issues around where the plug in was. We believe it was plug/wire end rather than the box itself. This is the part I am talking about (Axxess XSVI-6523-NAV Wiring Interface Connect a new stereo and retain Retained Accessory Power in select 2013-up Ram 1500 models without the factory touchscreen display at Crutchfield). We taped the box and the wire up in a way that would not lose connection. I did order another harness but haven't put it on yet since we've got the one in it working for now...plus I'm not looking forward to having to splice the wires all over again :D.


I hope that me updating the thread can help someone else out in the future. This was definitely a challenge to figure out, but was very easy once we knew what it was.

I took some pictures of what I am talking about, but they're not the best.
127274

(This is the white/park wire going into the BCM)

127275

(BCM+White Wire again)

127276

(This is above the steering/behind the steering wheel looking down angle. The electric tape is where the nick was).

127277

(This is the Axxis box that was intermitting).
127278

(You can see the Axxis box in the bottom right of the picture).
 

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This is a lengthy post about issues...So, hopefully I can make sense.

My fiance stated that about a month ago her car was acting weird. Sluggish on start up. The usual cluster light/o'meters flickering. Around this time her radio went out...again..for the 3rd time. It's a kenwood DNX692. We've had 2 of the same radios. Both have went out. They just don't turn on anymore. I thought it was weird that this happened around the same time.


Last week, she got in her car to leave for work and it wouldn't start. I later jumped the car off and took it to o'rileys. They checked the battery and the alternator and said everything was good...the battery was just low. That same day I took out the radio because we had a new JVC on the way. I put the car on a battery charger while I was taking the radio out. I drove the car to her work later and it worked fine. Later we rode back to the house and the battery light came on again.

Day 2: The next morning she went to work and the battery light was on again. This time her blinkers stopped working. So, I go get it and put it on the charger to sit over night.

Day 3: I crank the car and everything seems really good. No battery light. No flickering or anything.

Day 5: A day has passed without issues. Her radio came in so I install it. This project probably took me 3 or so hours. I tested the radio out of the dash. I had to crank the car to check the reverse camera. Everything checked out fine. I then took the key out of the car. I noticed while I was putting the radio in the dash, the dash lights was flickering on and off saying "door open". The door was open, but it kept coming up and then turning off. The key was out of the car.

Anyways, I continue. I start the car with the radio fully in. Everything is working with the radio, and the flickering didn't happen again.

Day 6: My fiance goes to meet up with some people to go shopping. She leaves her car. On the way to the meet up, her battery light comes on. The radio started acting weird. Her steering wheel controls stopped working. The radio turned itself off and back on. Once it restarted, the battery light went away and her steering wheel buttons started working.

Later that night/now: She goes to leave the meet up and come home. The car cranks fine, but the battery light is on, the engine light is on, and the heat didn't blow anything at all. Her cluster lights where dim, there was no bright or running light indicators on. The blinker lights also did not come up on her dash. She felt that she also had to push the gas and the break peddle extra hard just to work.

I ran a code reader on her car when she got here. It gave me a "error". We was standing outside of the car talking, and the dash lights where flickering and the radio was on without the key being in the ignition.

Here is some side notes: A few months ago her heat stopped blowing (no battery lights or anything), just heat stopped working. I checked fuses and everything. I eventually took the blower moter out from under the middle part of her dash at the floor (i cant remember what the name of the part was). I hot wired it to another battery and it instantly started turning, so I knew the motor worked. I put it back in the car and bam it started working again. No issues with the heat since today.

Last note, everything I went to put some type of jumper cables on the car whether it was jumping the car off that one time or every time I have put the battery charger on the battery, it has sparked. So the car is still drawing power from somewhere.

I don't think it has anything to do with the radio. Not that I don't think i could of messed up, it's just I followed the wiring from before. Same color to same color. I didn't have to make any of my own decisions lol. I believe it has something to do with the battery. I was told that the battery's on the dart are good for about 2-3 years. She has never replaced her battery before. I just hope it something like that and not the computer.

My father believes it is the computer going bad. He thinks since the tester came back with error, that it shouldn't do that. Plus we already went to O'Rileys to get it checked. If it is the "computer"...which would it be? I just read something a Body Control Module (BCM)? Not sure, but it sounds like that would be computer that went out sense that deals with the electronics of the car.


UPDATE #1 (Still the night of last above): The battery charger was light up with "full charge", so i unplugged it. I have checked all the fuses that have anything to do with the BCM and the ECM. All was fine. I also plugged in a little cigarette lighter device that test the battery and the alternator. I wasn't able to crank the vehicle due to people sleeping in the house and I was in the basement, but the first time I went down there and tested it just on "acc" it read 11.5v then it moved to 11.8v..showing "med" in strength. I went down there a little later and tested again and I got 12.3v. While my father and I was doing this, he noticed that the ground cable next to the battery at the end that was attached to the side of the car looked a little corroded. I took a picture of it, but realized that it didn't save so I will get a picture of it tomorrow. We are going to take the it off, sand the painted bolt that dodge put on there, and see how bad the corrosion is. Sadly, it seems that we are in a long phase of trail and error until we can get to the root of the problem. Here's to hoping it's just the ground cable.

Update #2: I figured out the HVAC issue. There was no fuse in F83?!?!?! How did it just disappear? lol. It worked yesterday morning, but not last night. I have no idea where the fuse went.
Now to the battery.. My father has some fancy code reader. It checks the battery and the alternator. It had me turn the lights on and off, crank the car 3 times, and then it gave me a status. It told me the battery was bad. I just took it to O'Rileys Monday of last week. I tested the battery 4 more times just to verify and I took the reader to another car to see if it changed the status (the other battery was good). I got bad on all test. The alternator tested fine. I also had another reader in the DC outlet. It was registering 14V when the car was on, and would hover around 12.5v but drop below the threshold with the car just on run.

I plan on going to O'Rileys to get a fuse for the HVAC and having them test the battery again.
I also sanded the corrosion off he cable and nut of the ground wire. It wasn't alot, but there was some.

Update #3: I got a fuse and put it in. The heater is working good now. O'Riley's confirmed that the battery was bad. I got a new battery. My fiance was leaving the house and her car started acting a weird again. The battery light would flash on the dash and then go away. The A/C lights, thermostat knob, and the other would go on and off. The radio was turning on and off as well (Here is a video of the issue: video-1612760822). A engine code was on as well.

I plugged in a code reader. I got the code U0164 (lost communication with HVAC Module). This code came up after I erased it. Not sure why this code is coming up and only this code? The heater is working.
Anyways, I also ran the battery tester. The battery came back good. I also ran a alternator tester and it came back good. After I did that test, the battery light went away and appeared to be running normal now. Could it be because it just needed some juice because it's a new battery...has to get settle in in a sense? She drove it home and she said everything appeared fine. She sat in the car to make sure everything turned off.

Side note: i believe there was a stored u0420 code as well? but I believe we cleared it, and never came back.

Update #4:
oday it worked fine. To work, to the gym, to our house we are remodeling, but on the way home from that house the heater stopped working and the battery light was on. The dash was flickering as well.
I plugged up the reader when we got home and got the u0164 code (lost connection to HVAC Module). I cleared the code..and i just for whatever reason revved up the engine to 2000RPMs. The battery light went away, the cluster light up brighter and heater started working.

Update #5: Everything started up fine. She is on her way to get me to go to a appointment. She said that mid driver her radio went out and her battery light came on. The battery light is blinking on and off and when it does it takes the heater/air lights with it. The heater its self is working.

thanks everyone


Thanks everyone for reading all of this. I appreciate all the help.
I had an extremely weird incident. As I was driving on a highway doing about 60-65 the engine sort of ‘cut out’ off and on numerous times and all the start up lights were blinking at the same time. The dealer disconnected some sort of sensor and it never happened again. The service agent said the battery was bad, it went dead several times overnight when it was cold outside.
 

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I have a problem with my car, I need your help.
I am writing from Ukraine with the help of a translator.
The car was brought from the USA, I rode it for half a year, but then a problem arose.
The scanner shows error U0164. The problem is that the machine lives its own life. The music turns off, the heater and stove open / turn off, the climate control flickers and does not respond to touch, the engine and battery periodically burn on the dashboard. I do not know what is the reason, please tell me who had this and what it could be?
 

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Hello everyone! It's been about a month since all the issues started. I believe about 2 weeks ago we fixed it. I've held off on giving a update to make sure that it is fixed, but after about 2 weeks I believe it's okay to go ahead and post. We had a major snow storm last week, and the car cranked fine in the very very very cold weather.

Anyways, here is the update.

There was a "Park" white wire that was tied into the BCM area and ran right under the cluster to the radio harness. It was installed by a radio place who the dodge dealership uses. That wire was nicked and had bare wire exposed.

The Axxis power control box was also intermitting. If you turned it one way you would lose your voltage and if you turned it another way you would get your voltage back. We was having issues around where the plug in was. We believe it was plug/wire end rather than the box itself. This is the part I am talking about (Axxess XSVI-6523-NAV Wiring Interface Connect a new stereo and retain Retained Accessory Power in select 2013-up Ram 1500 models without the factory touchscreen display at Crutchfield). We taped the box and the wire up in a way that would not lose connection. I did order another harness but haven't put it on yet since we've got the one in it working for now...plus I'm not looking forward to having to splice the wires all over again :D.


I hope that me updating the thread can help someone else out in the future. This was definitely a challenge to figure out, but was very easy once we knew what it was.

I took some pictures of what I am talking about, but they're not the best. View attachment 127274
(This is the white/park wire going into the BCM)

View attachment 127275
(BCM+White Wire again)

View attachment 127276
(This is above the steering/behind the steering wheel looking down angle. The electric tape is where the nick was).

View attachment 127277
(This is the Axxis box that was intermitting).
View attachment 127278
(You can see the Axxis box in the bottom right of the picture).
I have a problem with my car, I need your help.
I am writing from Ukraine with the help of a translator.
The car was brought from the USA, I rode it for half a year, but then a problem arose.
The scanner shows error U0164. The problem is that the machine lives its own life. The music turns off, the heater and stove open / turn off, the climate control flickers and does not respond to touch, the engine and battery periodically burn on the dashboard. I do not know what is the reason, please tell me who had this and what it could be?
 

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28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics / MODULE, Body Control (BCM) / Diagnosis and Testing

U0164-87-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH HVAC CONTROL MODULE - MISSING MESSAGE

Theory of Operation

The primary communication network between electronic control modules is the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus system. The Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus allows all electronic modules connected to the bus to share information with each other. Regardless of whether a message originates from a module on the higher speed CAN C (500K) Bus or on the lower speed bus, CAN Interior High Speed (IHS) (125K) Bus, the message structure and layout is similar, which allows the Body Control Module (BCM) to process and transfer messages between the CAN buses. The BCM stores Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) for certain bus network faults on the CAN C (500K) Bus and CAN IHS (125K) Bus.

The CAN bus modules are connected in parallel to the two-wire bus using a twisted pair, where the wires are wrapped around each other to provide shielding from unwanted electromagnetic induction, thus preventing interference with the relatively low voltage signals being carried through them. While the CAN bus is operating (active), one of the bus wires will carry a higher voltage and is referred to as the CAN High or CAN bus (+) wire, while the other bus wire will carry a lower voltage and is referred to as the CAN Low or CAN bus (-) wire.

For additional information on the communication network and star connector locations, (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8E - Electronic Control Modules/COMMUNICATION - Description) .

•When Monitored:
With the ignition on for at least five seconds.

Battery voltage between 10 and 16 volts.

Body Control Module (BCM) is configured correctly.

•Set Condition:
Bus messages not received from the HVAC Control Module for approximately two to five seconds.

Possible Causes

CAN IHS BUS (125K) (+) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
CAN IHS BUS (125K) (-) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
DTCS RELATED TO BATTERY VOLTAGE, IGNITION, OR VIN MESSAGES
BCM NOT CONFIGURED CORRECTLY
HVAC POWER AND GROUND
HVAC CONTROL MODULE
MODULE THAT SET THE DTC

Diagnostic Test

1.VERIFY DTC IS ACTIVE

NOTE: Make sure the battery voltage is between 10 and 16 volts before proceeding.

1. With the scan tool, read active DTCs.

Is this DTC active?

Yes

•Go To 2

No

•(Refer to 29 - Non-DTC Diagnostics/Communication - Diagnosis and Testing) and perform the Stored Lost Communication DTC diagnostic procedure.


2.CHECK FOR ANY OF THE FOLLOWING ACTIVE DTCS

1. With the scan tool, read active DTCs from all modules.

NOTE: Check for BCM configuration, CAN Interior Bus hardware electrical, VIN Missing/Mismatch, battery or ignition related DTCs.

Does the scan tool display any active DTCs to the conditions listed above?

Yes

•Go to and perform the appropriate diagnostic procedure.

No

•Go To 3


3.VERIFY THE HVAC MODULE IS ACTIVE ON THE BUS

1. Turn the ignition on.

2. With the scan tool, verify the HVAC Module is active on the bus.

Is the HVAC Module active on the bus?

Yes

•Go To 4

No

•(Refer to 29 - Non-DTC Diagnostics/Communication - Diagnosis and Testing) and perform the NO RESPONSE FROM HVAC MODULE diagnostic procedure.


4.CHECK FOR ADDITIONAL COMMUNICATION RELATED DTCS

1. With the scan tool, read all the DTCs.

Is there more than one module with active DTCs “Logged Against” the HVAC Module?

Yes

•Replace/update the HVAC Module in accordance with the Service Information. (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8E - Electronic Control Modules/MODULE, A/C and Heater/Removal) .
•Perform the HVAC MODULE VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/HVAC - Standard Procedure) .

No

•Go To 5


5.CLEAR DTC IN MODULE SETTING FAULT

1. With the scan tool, select the module setting the DTC against the HVAC Module.

2. Clear active DTCs.

Is this DTC still active?

Yes

•Replace/update the module that set this DTC in accordance with the Service Information.
•Perform the appropriate verification test for the module being replaced. If there is no verification test for the associated module perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure).

No

•Go To 6


6.CYCLE IGNITION

1. Cycle the ignition from RUN to OFF three times ending with the key in the RUN position.

Does this DTC become active?

Yes

•Go To 7

No

•The condition is not present at this time. Using the wiring diagrams as a guide, check all related splices and connectors for signs of water intrusion, corrosion, pushed out or bent terminals, and correct pin tension.
•Perform the appropriate verification test for the module. If there is no verification test for the associated module perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure).


7.CHECK FOR ADDITIONAL LOST COMMUNICATION FAULTS

1. With the scan tool, view the modules.

Does the BCM and other CAN IHS BUS modules show Lost Communication with the remaining CAN IHS BUS modules?

Yes

•Go To 8

No

•Replace/update the module that set this DTC in accordance with the Service Information.
•Perform the appropriate verification test for the module being replaced. If there is no verification test for the associated module perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure).


8.CHECK THE CAN IHS BUS (125K) (+) CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO VOLTAGE

1. Measure the voltage between the (D157) CAN IHS Bus (125K) (+) circuit and ground.

Is the voltage above 5.0 volts?
Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Schematic

Yes

•Repair the short to voltage in the CAN IHS Bus (125K) (+) circuit. The short to voltage is present in one of the CAN IHS Bus (125K) (+) circuits. Use the Star Connectors to isolate portions of the CAN IHS Bus (125K) (+) in order to locate the concern.
•Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure).

No

•Go To 9


9.CHECK THE CAN IHS BUS (125K) (-) CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND

1. Turn the ignition off.

2. Measure the resistance between ground and the (D158) CAN IHS Bus (125K) (-) circuit.

Is the resistance below 10k Ohms?
Rectangle Font Parallel Slope Engineering

Yes

•Repair the short to ground in the CAN IHS Bus (125K) (-) circuit. The short to ground is present in one of the CAN IHS Bus (125K) (-) circuits. Use the Star Connectors to isolate portions of the CAN IHS Bus (125K) (-) in order to locate the concern.
•Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure).

No

•Replace/update the module that set this DTC in accordance with the Service Information.
•Perform the appropriate verification test for the module being replaced. If there is no verification test for the associated module perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure).
 
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