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My parking break has stopped working for the most part. If I'm on flat it will stay put but I can push it by hand to get it rolling. I never felt anything break. When I pull it there is no feeling in the lever. I was wondering if there is a adjustment that I can look at or am I gunna have to replace the brake line? Thanks
 

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My parking break has stopped working for the most part. If I'm on flat it will stay put but I can push it by hand to get it rolling. I never felt anything break. When I pull it there is no feeling in the lever. I was wondering if there is a adjustment that I can look at or am I gunna have to replace the brake line? Thanks
Check the cables on the rear calipers and see what you're dealing with. Either if those cables or loose, worn, or broken. I find it really hard to believe that both cables would be gone already on a 16. So the issue might be in the hand brake itself. There is ways to adjust it, but you need to remove the entire center console to get under there to do it (I believe). You can probably youtube dodge dart center console removal and see how that is done.

You need to find the root to the issue first before we can really help. All we can do is throw out suggestions like above, but no sense at throwing parts at something if you don't know what is actually causing it.
 

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covered.
 

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covered.
That will work for a parking brake that won't release, but I don't know if it will help for a parking brake that won't engage. You'll be happy to know that I will soon be updating your thread with my results. I finally ordered replacement pads and rotors (the Brakemotive slotted and drilled ones), and I already have the rear caliper rebuild kits, hardware kits, and snap-ring pliers. I even have a rotor-puller, which makes pulling rusted-on rotors a lot easier. I meant to do the Dart's brakes this spring, but I had to replace the control arm, and then my Grand Caravan came out of nowhere to ransack my bank account with its sudden demand for new brakes and then a blown power-steering rack that nearly caused my wife to lose control and go into a tree. So I can finally get to my Dart's brakes and my rotors and pads are in Canada and should get here tomorrow or Thursday.

I will say, I do miss managing my life by bicycle sometimes. Not only is it good exercise, but the maintenance is way easier and cheaper. There is no part I can't replace in under an hour on my bike (I have all of the specialty tools required for the parts used on my bike, and not cheap ones). And I don't need an impact gun and rotor puller to exert several tons of force to get the brake rotors off!
 

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05 - Brakes / Brakes, Base / Parking Brake / Standard Procedure

STANDARD PROCEDURE - PARKING BRAKE ADJUSTMENT

1.With the use of a Trim Stick C-4755 or equivalent, remove the console rear end cap bezel (1) from the console (2).

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2.Place the parking brake handle in the completely lowered position.

3.Back the adjuster nut (1) off until there is no tension on the parking brake cable.

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4.Tighten the adjuster nut (1) until tension begins to be felt on the cables.

5.Look under vehicle and ensure that the parking brake actuating lever (1) has not lifted off of the parking brake stop (2) on both sides of the vehicle.

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6.If lever is off of the stop, it will be necessary to go back inside the vehicle and loosen the adjuster nut.

7.Once there is tension on the parking brake cables and both actuating levers are still on their resting tabs, actuate the parking brake to ensure that it is functioning properly.

8.Install the center console end cap.
 

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@alpinegreenneon I am having a strange issue where either my caliper's parking brake assembly is bad, or one of the cables to the driver side has more tension than the passenger side. I actually just replaced all 4 calipers. They are all Powerstop calipers with new power stop pads all done within the last 4 months. Rears were done in May, fronts were literally done last weekend. The rears were replaced because my driver side parking brake was dragging. It would not release the brake onto the stop all the way, and that one side was extremely hot. I inspected them and took a video of each side, and it seems as if they both travel approx the same length, just the driver side is not hitting the stop. I remember on the one I replaced, it barely moved at all when I released the parking brake.

In the above pictures I noticed that you can loosen the adjuster nut, but that would be for both cables at the same time? Is it possible for one to get stretched or unadjusted from the other side? I mean I don't think that would be out of the question to happen. I am just hoping that is the case, because I just replaced these calipers with the most expensive ones from Rock Auto, and I am probably a few weeks out of their "warranty" from power stop. I know they take refurb cores and replace whatever, and rebuild them, but since this is doing the exact same thing my old one did, I would really find it hard to believe that it's the brand new caliper and more related to the cable causing this issue. Is there any information on replacing the cables entirely if I do need to go that route?

Thank you!
 

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There may be two possibilities here. A cable can bind internally and not fully release. The other possibility is that the flexible brake line is collapsing internally or is restricted and not allowing the piston to return. Neons had the problem with the flex line and many calipers got replaced when it was the flex line causing the problem.
The cables can be replaced but before you replace them, disconnect each end and see if the cable moves freely in it's sheath. If it turns out the cable doesn't seem bound up, then look at replacing the flex lines.
If the flex lines have a bracket that wraps around the rubber, consider taking a large screwdriver and opening up the part that wraps around the hose. If there is enough rust inside that part that wraps around the hose, it can constrict the lumen of the hose and not allow fluid to return when you take your foot off the brake.

Here is the cable removal procedure if you need it:

05 - Brakes / Brakes, Base / Parking Brake / CABLE, Parking Brake / Removal

REMOVAL

CAUTION:
Use only Mopar® Brake Fluid DOT 3 Motor Vehicle or equivalent from a tightly sealed container. Do not use petroleum-based fluid because seal damage in the brake system will result.

CAUTION:
Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces. If brake fluid is spilled on any painted surfaces, wash it off immediately with water.

CAUTION:
Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol, motor oil, transmission fluid, or any fluid containing mineral oil to clean system components. These fluids damage rubber cups and seals.

CAUTION:
During service procedures, grease or any other foreign material must be kept off the caliper assembly, brake linings, brake rotor and external surfaces of the hub.

CAUTION:
When handling the brake rotor and caliper, be careful to avoid damaging the brake rotor and caliper, and scratching or nicking the brake shoe lining.

NOTE:
The procedure below applies to either of the two parking brake cables.


1.Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable from its post on the battery.

2.Block the tire and wheel assemblies so the vehicle does not move once the vehicle parking brake lever is released.

3.Remove the floor console (Refer to 23 - Body/Interior/CONSOLE, Floor - Removal) .

4.Release and lower the parking brake lever (5).

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5.Loosen the adjusting nut (4) on the equalizer output cable and disconnect the brake actuation cables from the equalizer.

6.Remove the parking brake cables from the parking brake cable equalizer (3).

7.Raise and support the vehicle (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting - Standard Procedure) .

8.Remove parking brake cable from each mounting bracket.

9.Disconnect brake cable end (2) from caliper bracket and slide brake cable through bracket.

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10.Remove parking brake cable from vehicle.
 

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@alpinegreenneon turns out it was the Power Stop caliper. Took the wheel off and the cable has slack, and the only way the parking brake spring goes to the stopper is if I grab some pliers and pull it closed. This is highly frustrating because this is the exact issue my old one had, so that is why I assumed it was the cables and not the brand new power stop caliper. Especially since they only have a 3 month warranty on them and it's just over 4 months now...

I emailed them my frustration to see if they will still honor it. Or at least provide a discounted one. Especially since I just replaced the front calipers as well, including all 4 power stop brake pads.

Update: they just emailed me back saying they are actually covered for 3 years! Working with them now on how to get my replacement. They were FAST on response. And even asked if the pads were damaged, and would replace those too. I mean it's still early in this process, but so far I am very impressed and highly recommend.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So last night I got under my car and had my wife pull the break. The driver side break cable is not moving at the rear at all. But the passenger side appeared to be working fine.
 

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The best way to be sure is to disconnect the cable at both ends and see if it binds when you try to pull the cable in it's sheath. If it moves freely disconnected, then the problem is the caliper.
 

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So last night I got under my car and had my wife pull the break. The driver side break cable is not moving at the rear at all. But the passenger side appeared to be working fine.
If the parking brake isn't moving on one side but the other side works, the cable that isn't moving has likely either become disconnected at handle or has snapped. If the caliper was the problem, you wouldn't be able to pull the handle up.
 

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If the parking brake isn't moving on one side but the other side works, the cable that isn't moving has likely either become disconnected at handle or has snapped. If the caliper was the problem, you wouldn't be able to pull the handle up.
I would agree with this. In my case, the cable pulls both sides up to lock, but on one side the caliper does not return to it's rest position. I got under there and I am able to pull the calipers parking brake arm down to the stopper with pliers, but that's the only way. I sprayed it with WD40, pulled it down and up a few times and no change. I inspected the cable on the caliper and it has play in it when I have the parking brake down. I can feel there is not a lot of tension on it when the caliper should be down in it's resting position. I thought it might be my cable that was the issue, but after seeing that, I was convinced the cable was not the reason the caliper was not returning. I would have expected the cable to be fully taught with full tension on the caliper but that was not the case. Frustrating that this happened with my new Power Stop calipers, however, I emailed them and they informed me that the calipers were under their 3 year warranty, and immediately sent out a new PAIR of them. No serious questions asked, just address and proof of purchase. Free shipping and return shipping.

While I was frustrated, and RockAuto said their warranty was only 90 days, I am VERY impressed with their customer service and absolutely have taken care of me up to this point. I emailed them Friday about this, and I will be getting the new calipers tomorrow. They said the set I bought (powdercoated in Red) only comes in pairs, so they just sent two new ones even though my issue is just one. If anyone needs a caliper, I highly recommend them. Sure it's annoying that I need to replace this one, but the quickness and respect they have given me to address the issue really shows. Nothing is perfect, and when a company is quick to makes things right, that earns more respect than just buying the parts. There's one thing to be like oh yeah I bought those calipers - they work, pretty happy with them. But to have to contact their team and not have to go out of my way at all other than sending an initial email of the problem, and seeing how well they take care of their customers is where the consumer really feels like they are taken care of. Even if it was an issue that caused it.
 

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I would agree with this. In my case, the cable pulls both sides up to lock, but on one side the caliper does not return to it's rest position. I got under there and I am able to pull the calipers parking brake arm down to the stopper with pliers, but that's the only way. I sprayed it with WD40, pulled it down and up a few times and no change. I inspected the cable on the caliper and it has play in it when I have the parking brake down. I can feel there is not a lot of tension on it when the caliper should be down in it's resting position. I thought it might be my cable that was the issue, but after seeing that, I was convinced the cable was not the reason the caliper was not returning. I would have expected the cable to be fully taught with full tension on the caliper but that was not the case. Frustrating that this happened with my new Power Stop calipers, however, I emailed them and they informed me that the calipers were under their 3 year warranty, and immediately sent out a new PAIR of them. No serious questions asked, just address and proof of purchase. Free shipping and return shipping.

While I was frustrated, and RockAuto said their warranty was only 90 days, I am VERY impressed with their customer service and absolutely have taken care of me up to this point. I emailed them Friday about this, and I will be getting the new calipers tomorrow. They said the set I bought (powdercoated in Red) only comes in pairs, so they just sent two new ones even though my issue is just one. If anyone needs a caliper, I highly recommend them. Sure it's annoying that I need to replace this one, but the quickness and respect they have given me to address the issue really shows. Nothing is perfect, and when a company is quick to makes things right, that earns more respect than just buying the parts. There's one thing to be like oh yeah I bought those calipers - they work, pretty happy with them. But to have to contact their team and not have to go out of my way at all other than sending an initial email of the problem, and seeing how well they take care of their customers is where the consumer really feels like they are taken care of. Even if it was an issue that caused it.
Eh, things go wrong sometimes, but at least the caliper didn't seize completely, and it's good to hear that RockAuto has customer service to match their excellent prices and fast shipping. They're my go-to for most non-performance/OEM-equivalent parts. I just can't beat their prices locally (or with Canadian online retail), even with FedEx shipping costs (which are surprisingly reasonable). Everything I've ordered I've received in less than a week. They aren't as sexy as some other vendors, but I think RockAuto is my favorite "supporting vendor" on the forums.
 

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Eh, things go wrong sometimes, but at least the caliper didn't seize completely, and it's good to hear that RockAuto has customer service to match their excellent prices and fast shipping. They're my go-to for most non-performance/OEM-equivalent parts. I just can't beat their prices locally (or with Canadian online retail), even with FedEx shipping costs (which are surprisingly reasonable). Everything I've ordered I've received in less than a week. They aren't as sexy as some other vendors, but I think RockAuto is my favorite "supporting vendor" on the forums.
I did not even contact RockAuto. I went directly to Power Stop. Rock Autos site actually was incorrect on the warranty information and said it was out of manufacture warranty.
 
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