[NORCAL50]

So I'm doing an ATF change this weekend on the 6F24 trans. I hear there's a fluid level check plug on the transmission towards the rear of the trans ~ right under the throttle body but straight down to the transmission. From above or below it looks impossible to get to, but I can see it from above. How might one get access to it? The wheel well? (Cries in plastic clips breaking)

So this leads me to my next question; What temperature is the ATF supposed to be at in order to drain the excess out the front, through the ~1.5" dia. black plastic overflow cap?

I did it at 60k and just put the same amount back in, but this time I want to actually check my fluid level.

 

[alpinegreenneon]

Have you removed the belly pan? If you want to remove the wheel well splash shield, lube the plastic fasteners with WD40 or PbBlaster first and they will not break.
Have you watched the you tube videos? Do you have the level checking tool? Search eBay for CTA1017 if you don't have it.

 

[Srtified]

Have you removed the belly pan? If you want to remove the wheel well splash shield, lube the plastic fasteners with WD40 or PbBlaster first and they will not break.
Have you watched the you tube videos? Do you have the level checking tool? Search eBay for CTA1017 if you don't have it.
View attachment 129065

NO PBBLASTER...it will attack the plastic and destroy it over time. I would ONLY use Hyundai transmission fluid in this transmission and if your doing it yourself and you don't have the measuring stick, make careful note of the temperature and amount of fluid that come out of the transmission and replace with the same amount at as close to the same temperature as you can. Millimeters difference in fluid level in this transmission are crucial!!!

As Alpine says, watch the videos and pay attention!!!

 

[NORCAL50]

Have you removed the belly pan? If you want to remove the wheel well splash shield, lube the plastic fasteners with WD40 or PbBlaster first and they will not break.
Have you watched the you tube videos? Do you have the level checking tool? Search eBay for CTA1017 if you don't have it.

I have the scantool that can read trans fluid temp, I have that table printed out, and I have the CTA1017 tool. I just want to avoid dealing with the tool even though I have it, b/c it's such a PITA to get to the check port.

NO PBBLASTER...it will attack the plastic and destroy it over time. I would ONLY use Hyundai transmission fluid in this transmission and if your doing it yourself and you don't have the measuring stick, make careful note of the temperature and amount of fluid that come out of the transmission and replace with the same amount at as close to the same temperature as you can. Millimeters difference in fluid level in this transmission are crucial!!!

As Alpine says, watch the videos and pay attention!!!

I'm using Valvoline MaxLife ATF, it is compatible, and if it isn't, my transmission has ran flawlessly on it for the past 60k miles. I suppose if the fluid overflow at the front of the transmission is useless I'll just measure it and put it back in; but it's really disheartening that it's so hard to get to the check port.

Also @everyone, how to measure how level the car is? I'd prefer not to have to drive it, my air compressor (I have a pneumatic ATF pump), floor jack, and jack stands down to o'rileys to get a level spot. I have a semi level gravel driveway, and I put planks under my jacks, but I'd like to get the car perfectly level.

 

[NORCAL50]

So far what I've done (Transmission):

Sub-Frame? It's the support going across ~underneath the front driver and passenger seats.

Also door jambs are roughly level front to back, meaning the bubbles inside the lines. I think you're supposed to be within something like 1 degree front to back?

They all agree so I think that's the best I'm gonna get for leveling the car, but let me know if this is incorrect.

 

[NORCAL50]

Update: OMG THE FLUID CHECK PORT IS SO EASY TO GET TO.

I think last time it was b/c I was too lazy to take the bottom scrape fabric bs off. It has since all fallen off. Car much easier to work on now. Lol. Thanks guys. I'll just use the check port.

Update #2: Just checked it, the level was at 26.0mm @100F before I did anything, so at temp maybe it's a tad high. Also not sure how I'm not supposed to burn myself when I for realsies check the ATF at temp, but this will be fun

Update #3: Anyone happen to know the torque specs for the ATF drain plug? Won't bother with the check port, no getting a torque wrench in there lol.

 

[alpinegreenneon]

Fluid Drain Plug 40 N·m 30 Ft. Lbs.

 

[NORCAL50]

Thank you, have torqued drain to 30ft.lbs.

Final update: Drained 3.5 quarts, then filled w/ ~3.5 quarts to 24mm @ 123.2F (50.5C).

She runs SO much better. While this may be compounded with the fresh air filter, NGK Ruthenium plugs, PCV valve, valve cover gasket, oil and coolant all during the same week... I can no longer hear rattling sounds at idle, no longer feel vibrations shifting from P > D, no longer jerky when downshifting during hard breaking, shifting is smooth as butter again during hard acceleration, throttle response is much better, and overall just sounds much better.

Max ATF temp was 193 after driving it for 20 minutes w/ stop and go + 3x 0 to 70 pulls. Afterwards, let it cruise at 45MPH and it dropped down to 181F. So she runs pretty cool too.

Thanks for all the help everyone!

P.S. Welding gloves help for not burning yourself on everything checking the ATF level (Catalytic converter will literally be an inch or so from your arm).