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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone I have been working on my Dodge Dart and now it’s at 152k miles. Found a few issues that I fixed sensors and a pvc valve issue but got a scanner read done and wanted to know if this read is a good or bad one? I have a vaccum leak and code P219A which is what I am trying to fix. I had ran over something on the highway I couldn’t move out of the way for and the bolts from the manifold to the exhaust broke with 1 still attached with the two pieces slightly off not loose. Is it the reason for that leak? Before running this test I had drove my car to work and back which is 2 miles each way. Also here is the picture of the obd2 reader how does it look? Thanks!
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I already posted the diagnostic tree in your previous post.

That diagnostic is from the Factory Service Manual. Follow that and you might fix it. It says nothing about exhaust leaks but you should fix that also. Those bolts are pressed in. You can drill them out and use regular hardened bolts and nuts or try to find the splined bolts from 2nd gen Neons 6503767 and nuts 6104716AA.
 

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If spark advance was a problem, you would have a different code. Most likely the PCM is trying to compensate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I ran the diagnostics test. There was no misfire and I had changed my oxygen sensors a few months ago. So what I found was the possible leak is coming from the intake manifold. When I went under the car I found this, aswell as on the catalytic converter. Can anyone tell me if that’s possible? Puddy and tape fill the cracks for the intake gap and catalytic converter? Pics posted below
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Junkyard time for another intake manifold. You will need a new cat. Whatever you ran over did some damage.

To find your previous thread, click on your screen name and then click latest activity. You don't need to keep starting new threads for the same problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Does it make any sense to try and seal the crack on the manifold with heat temp silicone? Or is that a waste of time?


Junkyard time for another intake manifold. You will need a new cat. Whatever you ran over did some damage.

To find your previous thread, click on your screen name and then click latest activity. You don't need to keep starting new threads for the same problem.
 

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The problem is that fuel vapor and temperature changes will eventually make it leak again. You should be able to find an intake manifold at a self serve junkyard. I have actually seen several already pulled and left behind after someone pulls a head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok gotcha. I just need to pass smog so I might do that temporally. Also the vvt solenoids for the exhaust and intake manifold. Is there a how to somewhere to change? The one behind bank one looks like just a bolt holds it in. If I unscrew it will just come out and input the new one in?

The problem is that fuel vapor and temperature changes will eventually make it leak again. You should be able to find an intake manifold at a self serve junkyard. I have actually seen several already pulled and left behind after someone pulls a head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Also what kind of sensors are on the engine near the exhaust manifold from facing on the engine at the top that have 2 small heatshield infront of them. 1 infront of bank 1 and bank 4. Those camshaft sensors?
 

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Camshaft sensors are on the transmission side (cylinder 4) of the engine front and back. VVT solenoids are on the timing chain side (cylinder1) of the engine front and back.
There is just one bolt for the VVT solenoids. One is in front on the exhaust manifold side and the other is in back on the intake manifold side of the engine.

2.0L VVT solenoid
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The exhaust CMP sensor is on your right mounted to the head as you look at the engine. It has a small heat shield. The exhaust cam VVT solenoid is on your left and does not have a heat shield. The part on the left that has a heat shield is the ignition noise capacitor. It's too cold to go out and remove the engine cover and take pics but you really should look at fixing the intake manifold crack before running to the parts store for things that don't normally cause a problem. Code P219A is for an air fuel ratio imbalance so a cracked manifold should be your number 1 priority.
It is just one bolt for the VVT solenoid and there is nothing to align. The intake VVT requires removal of the intake manifold to get access to it. Torque for that bolt is 12 N·m (9 ft. lbs.).
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have watched plenty of videos on how to take off the intake manifold but they all have the engine already out of the car. Is that the only way to do so? I don’t have a full car lift but I can put it up on jack’s.
 

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The procedure to remove the intake manifold off is not easy. I haven't had a reason to remove one but from reading what is suggested in the factory service manual, it might be easier to remove it attached to the head. The FSM wants you to remove the crossmember with the steering rack so you can pull it out from underneath. I can post the procedure, but it will take a while to copy it all.
 

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09 - Engine, 2.0L DOHC / Manifolds / MANIFOLD, Intake / Removal

REMOVAL

WARNING:
Release fuel system pressure before servicing system components. Service vehicles in well ventilated areas and avoid ignition sources. Never smoke while servicing the vehicle.

1.Perform fuel system pressure release procedure before attempting any repairs (Refer to 14 - Fuel System/Fuel Delivery - Standard Procedure) .

2.Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.

3.Remove the resonator assembly (Refer to 09 - Engine, Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner/Removal)

4.Using a steering wheel holder, lock the steering wheel in place to keep it from rotating. This keeps the clockspring in the proper orientation.

5.Remove the steering column lower coupler pinch bolt (3) and separate the column (2) from the steering gear (4).
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6.Disconnect the vapor line (2) at the purge vapor solenoid end of the line.
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7.Remove the NVH foam pad (3) prior to disconnecting the fuel line (1).

8.To remove the foam pad, cut the pad along the score line (1). Make sure care is taken to not make contact with any other components while cutting the pad. Do not cut beyond the line. Remove the pad from the fuel rail once split.
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9.Unplug the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) connector.

10.Unplug the purge solenoid.

11.Remove the throttle body bracket bolts (3), loosen the nuts (2). Allow the throttle body bracket bolts to remain with the intake manifold.
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12.Disconnect the fuel injector electrical connectors (1).
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13.Disconnect fuel line at rail (3).

14.Remove the two bolts at the fuel rail (2).

15.Remove the throttle body bolts (1) and nut (2) then remove the throttle body assembly (3).
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16.Raise and support the vehicle.

17.Remove the front suspension crossmember (Refer to 13 - Frame and Bumpers/Frame/CROSSMEMBER, Front Suspension/Removal) .

18.Remove the four screws that secure the intake manifold silencer to the manifold (1).
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19.Remove the intake manifold silencer assembly.

20.Remove the two nuts (1), the bolt (2) and the intake manifold lower bracket (3).
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21.Remove wiring harness retainer from the intake manifold eyelets (1).
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22.Unplug the three hose connectors (3).

23.Unplug the MAP sensor connector (2).

24.Remove intake manifold retaining bolts (2) and nuts (1).
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25.Remove intake manifold through the bottom of the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So awesome. Thank you so much for posting. While I am going to do that and get a new intake manifold I did get a good obd 2 scanner finally figured out how to use it and i ran some diagnostics and found something other then the vaccum leak. This test I ran on the bank one fuel system monitor and reads running high. Does that mean my fuel filter or ? What part should I look at replacing or getting to help with that? Pic below
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That's likely because the PCM is compensating.
 
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