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I've replaced the blower motor and the blower motor resistor but still have a check engine light and occasionally it will go out. Also occasionally the blower motor may work on when I'm calling for heat but never when I'm calling for AC. The OBD code from the auto parts store are always the same saying there's probably something wrong with the blower motor circuit. Possibly loose or corroded connections? What else could be the problem? Does anyone have good knowledge how to check things so I can possibly find the problem? South Carolina in the summertime is hell. Two more payments on this piece of junk will give me some relief financially but I'm tired of dumping money into this. I know how to use a multimeter. Please, anyone have any good knowledge where I can start? Thank you.
 

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Try a self serve junkyard for the HVAC control unit. Intermittent is usually wiring or a connector. To test a wire for continuity, you disconnect each end from the circuit and touch each probe to each end. Any high or infinite resistance is an open. Wiggle the connector as you test. Unwound paper clips or pins will fit into female terminals. The most common location for an open is right at the connector. Looking at a wire or connector does nothing since the open is under the insulation.
 
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I was an electrician in the Air Force. I can test with an ohm meter. I tap on the fuse box, the blower motor comes on. Bumps in the road will sometimes turn it off. I've looked at the bottom side of the fuse box. Where a relay sits, part of the underside is enclosed and there's no way to stick a probe to test for an open (continuity) or to visually inspect for loose pins/connector. I hope I'm on the right track. There might be another component in the fuse box that's related and could be the issue. The little brown wire I'm pointing to goes to one of the relay pins, not sure which one yet. Hot outside, about 100° with humidity
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