Dodge Dart Forum banner

21 - 40 of 43 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,621 Posts
@Exitus04, Just wanted to say THANK YOU, my e-brake started getting stuck a couple of days ago just like what's described in this thread and after using your pics and following the instructions (one person engaging/disengaging e-brake while holding button and me spraying the heck out of the e-brake mechanism on both sides) both sides now engage/disengage perfectly and my e-brake feels nice and tight!
Of course! Im glad that everything is working for you! I am still having issues with mine but i think its due to me adjusting the "T" at the lever... I have just been too lazy to screw around with it again...LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
Of course! Im glad that everything is working for you! I am still having issues with mine but i think its due to me adjusting the "T" at the lever... I have just been too lazy to screw around with it again...LOL
Ahh that sucks, I was going to do that at first but thankfully came across your post.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
238 Posts
After changing my rear hubs, rotors, and pads there was still no e-brake.
I loaded up the rear spring assembly with grease and adjusted the tension it slowly began to start to work.
After driving a short distance I tested the e-brakes while in motion..
The e-brake worked however, one spring held tension and the other released thus locking the e-brake on only one wheel.
Short while later I was able to release it though it returned to its previous state in which handle would be tight but there would be no brake engagement.
Tonight I will try and resolve this issue.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,621 Posts
After changing my rear hubs, rotors, and pads there was still no e-brake.
I loaded up the rear spring assembly with grease and adjusted the tension it slowly began to start to work.
After driving a short distance I tested the e-brakes while in motion..
The e-brake worked however, one spring held tension and the other released thus locking the e-brake on only one wheel.
Short while later I was able to release it though it returned to its previous state in which handle would be tight but there would be no brake engagement.
Tonight I will try and resolve this issue.
Let me know what you find... i have been having the same issue!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
238 Posts
So here is what I found:

** NOTE : Right click and "Open in new tab or page" with the images..
I think the board does not like hosting photos with Google .. ----

This make no sense the coil spring wraps around and rests on a nut?
Why is there no bearing to coil around?

Passenger side:

Passenger side:


Oh.. and this is the result .
Perhaps this is why my E-brake does not work?

Drivers side:

Drivers side:


The bad spring is super tight which would explain why my E-brake lever is tight.
Bad Spring:







Can someone take detailed pictures of their perfect working E-brake spring?
I am interested to see if something is missing with my brakes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
238 Posts
Go figure..

Recall Number
13V124000
Recall Date
04/03/2013
Component
PARKING BRAKE
Summary
Chrysler Group LLC (Chrysler) is recalling certain model year 2013 Dodge Dart vehicles manufactured on November 27, 2012. Some vehicles may have been built with incorrect rear brake calipers, which could result in an inoperable parking brake.
Consequence
If the parking brake is inoperable, the vehicle could roll when parked increasing the risk of a crash.
What Owners Should Do
Chrysler will notify owners, and dealers will replace the affected brake calipers, free of charge. The recall began on April 29, 2013. Owners may contact Chrysler at 1-800-247-9753. Chrysler's recall campaign number is N21.

Read more at https://www.cars.com/recalls/dodge-dart-2013/#Vp6D7f1LjXQmTxLZ.99
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
238 Posts
Well.. The local dodge dealership played dumb dumb "we never heard of that", and claimed that the "Recall did not exist".. So I contacted Chryslers phone # as listed in the post above and low and behold it does exist. The way it works is like this:
Recalls are deemed by the NHTSA not the auto manufacture.
Basically if the problem is something that causes the vehicle to not be safe for the road then the NHTSA steps in and tells the manufacture to either fix it or the vehicle loses it right to be sold.
So.. The service rep jackass at my dealership, FX Caprara of Watertown, NY told me this morning that I could essentially buy a new caliper.. I was pretty pissed off, and thats when I returned home and called the Chrysler phone # and found out that it does indeed exist. They however, wanted me to drop off my vehicle and leave it with the nasty liars at the dealership. Not happening.
So I tore into the problem myself.
Here is what I discovered..
You can fix it.
It is not corrosion.(well not yet anyways..)
Super coating that spring with WD40 or equivalent is not helping the problem.
It is a matter of a rubber dust / grease boot that fails to do what it supposed to do.
Mine was filled with what appeared to be sand or dirt.
I cleaned, greased, and re-assembled everything.
My E-brake works again.
Brake Spring remove.jpg
Brake Spring remove-3.jpg
Brake Spring remove-2.jpg
Brake Spring remove-4.jpg

Use WD40 with a scrub brush to remove rust, clean the rubber bushing inside and out, clean the rotating surface, reassemble, and for extra measure fill the inside of the rubber seal with white lithium grease, or bearing grease.

Enjoy your E-Brake again.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,890 Posts
the spring in that first picture was not installed correctly. all of the hoops should be sitting on the bolt. Also its super easy to remove the cable from the bracket, you have to line up the window and use 2 screwdrivers to unlock it from the bracket. I think better then ripping half the car appart to get to ebrake handle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
238 Posts
the spring in that first picture was not installed correctly. all of the hoops should be sitting on the bolt.
Actually, that is what happens when the caliper armature is stuck and not disengaging the e-brake.
Thus resulting in driver beast mode vs. e-brake handle = caliper death spring
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
I had this problem with the Right-Rear. Was able to push the rubber seal away from its landing (behind the spring and bracket) and spray some LPS-1 ( WD-40 or whatever flavor you have) inside. Took the spring off and worked it back and forth for about 30 seconds and it is now completely free like new. Do not know if it will last but we will see. Might do this as regular maintenance when I swap my winter/summer tires in spring and fall. The guy that designed the rubber boot should be shot. 36,000 miles Rallye 1.4.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
20190629_151850.jpg 20190629_151850.jpg 20190629_151850.jpg


Just to say that today i had to adjust the e brake cable. My situation started as the caliper staying locked on the driver side even when the e brake was disengaged. A friend and I replaced the caliper and then the other side began to do the exact same thing.
Knowing it was an e brake cable issue this weekend I took the whole console of my car out to see if I could physically see the issue. Once I did the passenger cable wasnt releasing tension. Fiddling ensued.
The moral here is that the calipers have that section that holds the e brake cable and in that assembly the e brake cable arm has a ratchet mechanism inside. To get that cable to tighten up after you get good tension on the cable you have to put the car in reverse and go like 3-5 mph and slam the brakes. The ratchet will tighten enough on that e brake arm that when you lift off the e brake handle I will release enough tension to let the caliper release fully. It is a trail and error process with many reverse brake slams to get feeling just right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
NOPE! They do not sell the spring by itself.... You HAVE to buy the whole caliper assembly...



Please do! Make sure to take your time and really load on that penetrating spray!
The best thing to use is a waterproof silicone lubricant after you break them free.. WD40 makes a real good one that you can get at autozone or advanced auto parts
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Well.. The local dodge dealership played dumb dumb "we never heard of that", and claimed that the "Recall did not exist".. So I contacted Chryslers phone # as listed in the post above and low and behold it does exist. The way it works is like this:
Recalls are deemed by the NHTSA not the auto manufacture.
Basically if the problem is something that causes the vehicle to not be safe for the road then the NHTSA steps in and tells the manufacture to either fix it or the vehicle loses it right to be sold.
So.. The service rep jackass at my dealership, FX Caprara of Watertown, NY told me this morning that I could essentially buy a new caliper.. I was pretty pissed off, and thats when I returned home and called the Chrysler phone # and found out that it does indeed exist. They however, wanted me to drop off my vehicle and leave it with the nasty liars at the dealership. Not happening.
So I tore into the problem myself.
Here is what I discovered..
You can fix it.
It is not corrosion.(well not yet anyways..)
Super coating that spring with WD40 or equivalent is not helping the problem.
It is a matter of a rubber dust / grease boot that fails to do what it supposed to do.
Mine was filled with what appeared to be sand or dirt.
I cleaned, greased, and re-assembled everything.
My E-brake works again.
View attachment 71810
View attachment 71818
View attachment 71826
View attachment 71834

Use WD40 with a scrub brush to remove rust, clean the rubber bushing inside and out, clean the rotating surface, reassemble, and for extra measure fill the inside of the rubber seal with white lithium grease, or bearing grease.

Enjoy your E-Brake again.
Thank you... I did this with my car and for added measure add some bearing grease inside of the rubber boots at the hand brakes area. This will keep dust out and we'll lubricated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Do you think it’s possible to change the caliper and e-brake so your not dealing with this dumb design they have on here
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,628 Posts
It would be really difficult to find something that would fit and would cost at least 3 times as much.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chtsta

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,239 Posts
Do you think it’s possible to change the caliper and e-brake so your not dealing with this dumb design they have on here
You could look at the Chrysler 200 or Jeep Cherokee. I know somebody here did a "poor man's big brake kit" on the front brakes by swapping in the 2-piston calipers from a Cherokee. They're the most likely to be even remotely compatible with the Dart, since they were based on the same platform. That said, they both use an electric e-brake, so good look retrofitting that into a Dart.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
😩well thank you guys for the advice looks like I’m just gonna have to deal with needing to spray these damn springs down every so often
What a terrible design
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,239 Posts
😩well thank you guys for the advice looks like I’m just gonna have to deal with needing to spray these damn springs down every so often
What a terrible design
No, you're going to have to periodically rebuild the rear calipers. Spraying the springs is pointless, they don't actually do a whole lot. The problem is that gunk gets inside the caliper from the rear side and causes the shaft for the parking brake to bind and jam inside the mechanism. You have to rebuild the caliper to clean it out, and if it's corroded like one of mine was, it might fail again in a few months (like mine did), in which case you need to replace the caliper. The motto of the Dart should be "That's a pretty neat idea, but too bad about the botched execution of it."
 
21 - 40 of 43 Posts
Top