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It may be the play they detect is the ball joint because that it is integral to the control arm. It is not a separate part that can be pressed out.
The ball joint stud is almost two inches long. The first inch is easy, the rest almost takes two people leaning on it. Pry on anything that looks solid. There was a you tube on replacing the cv joint axle. See if you can find that.
I wasted a couple hours on the pry method and got nowhere. Just gouged up the aluminum control arm. What worked for me: get yourself an old time pickle fork (ball joint separator) and hammer it in between the ball joint and the steering knuckle. Don't pry, just hammer it straight in. When you get the ball joint to move a quarter inch or so, then put in a big open end wrench between the pickle fork and the bottom of the steering knuckle, then hammer again to get the next quarter inch of movement. I finally needed about three wrenches' worth to get the joint apart, but it worked. The first one I did, since I tried prying first, I tore up the boot pretty good, and it can't be replaced. The second one, just hammering, the boot came through ok. Putting them back together, lube the new ball joint shaft generously with axle grease and it will go in once lined up. Make sure it's all the way in so you can get the bolt back in place. Good luck.
 

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Well, I replaced the control arm. I guess it's not the worst thing I've ever done, but man, that ball joint is a pain to get out. First, the pinch bolt was rather reluctant to be pulled out of the knuckle. I had to hammer it out, and even needed to use a punch to get it all the way out. Then I had to extract the ball joint. I tried the pry bar technique, but all that did was bend a solid steel 36" pry bar. There's just no way to get enough leverage in the right place for that technique to work. But thanks to @PDJennings I was able to use a pickle fork and a couple of wrenches to pound and pry it out. The only other challenging part was getting the horizontal mount of the new control arm into place. Because you have to put the rear mount in first, the front mount is not 100% aligned with its slot, so it wouldn't go in. I ended up using a scissor jack to basically press it in. It actually lifted the car off one of the jackstands a bit before popping into place. The new ball joint was surprisingly easy to install. It slid about halfway in on its own, and I used the scissor jack again on the control arm to press it in the rest of the way. The control arm I purchased (the "Mevotech" brand from Rock Auto) came with a new pinch bolt, and I reused the other fasteners.

Oh yeah, about those e-Torx bolts: I loathe whoever thought they were a good idea almost as much as I loathe the bolts. Torx is great for recessed screw heads, but as a bolt head it leaves much to be desired.

EDIT: I almost forgot, after getting it all back together, everything runs smoothly, but I definitely need an alignment. The steering wheel's "perfectly straight" point is now a bit to the left of centered.
 

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The crossmember does not come off. Are you not seeing the pics? I checked my android phone and my PC and the pics show up fine. The install uses the same pics as the removal just in reverse order.. The torque specs are on the last pic.

Here is the install with pics.
02 - Front Suspension / Front / ARM, Lower Control / Installation

INSTALLATION

1.Install the lower control arm in the front suspension crossmember.

2.Install a NEW rear bolt (2) and NEW nut (1) to attach the lower control arm to the crossmember but do not tighten to specification at this time.

View attachment 98809

3.Install a NEW front bolt (1) attaching the lower control arm to the crossmember.

View attachment 98817

4.Lower the vehicle and install a floor jack under the control arm. Raise the jack until the lower control arm is at ride height and tighten the following bolts to the proper (Torque Specifications) :
•Front Lower Control Arm Horizontal Bolt (1).
•Rear Lower Control Arm Vertical Bolt.

5.Raise the vehicle back up to the original position.

6.Install the front fascia support beam (1) that was removed.

View attachment 98825

7. Install the fasteners (2) securing the lower bumper reinforcement (1) to the frame/front end module for the side of the vehicle the lower control arm was removed from. Tighten the fasteners to the proper (Torque Specifications).

View attachment 98833

8.Install the crossmember to fascia support beam bracket and install the four retaining bolts (1) and tighten to the proper (Torque Specifications).

View attachment 98841

9.Install the lower ball joint in the knuckle.

WARNING:
Make sure lower control arm ball joint stud is fully inserted into knuckle before pinch bolt is inserted into knuckle. Only ball joint stud rubber boot should be visible below the knuckle; stud should not be visible. Failure to fully and properly insert ball joint stud could lead to wheel separation and loss of mobility and could result in personal injury and/or death.

10.Install a NEW pinch bolt and NEW nut (3) and tighten to the proper (Torque Specifications)

View attachment 98849

11.Install the wheel and tire assembly (Refer to 22 - Tires and Wheels/Installation)

12.Lower the vehicle.

View attachment 98785
Just wanted to thank you for having this information. I replaced the passenger side control arm assembly in my gravel driveway. Took a little over 2 and a half hours.
I was able to do it only using my floor jack and some stands. (And tools obviously)
Again, thank you for having this available.
Next stop, a thread on replacing the front struts 😂
 

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Next stop, a thread on replacing the front struts 😂
Hard part is the lower ball joint stud.
 

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So looking at the instructions, it appears you do you not need to disconnect the outer tie rod from the knuckle? Just break the lower ball joint away from the steering knuckle and then just unbolt and remove the control arm?
 

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You do need to separate the outer tie rod from the knuckle.
 
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