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Discussion Starter #3
I have the 6 speed manual. As far as highest mileage, that is why I mentioned wantsum?. A few months back, he was ahead of me and was hoping he can update us where he is at now. We both have long commutes, so the miles add up quickly. On this forum, I think we are the 2 highest mileage darts.
 

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@m88s22 -

Congrats on the milestone!

You and @wantsum? are way ahead of me (i.e., I'll be breaking the 150,000 mile milestone this weekend).


... and before you ask ... YES, I already changed my timing belt :D ... I was going to do it myself, but didn't want to chance voiding my "Chrysler Maximum Care Lifetime Warranty", so I had my local CJDR dealership perform the work.

They replaced the:

  • timing belt (MOPAR part #: 4893467AA)
  • belt tensioner (MOPAR part #: 892695AC)
  • serpentine belt (MOPAR part #: 4627697AA)
  • water pump (MOPAR part #: 4892713AC)
  • turbo water return hose/tube (MOPAR part #: 4893037AD)
... and used an aerosol "parts cleaner" (MOPAR part #: 68065197AC) ... for a grand total of $1556.57 [parts: $463.68; tax: $42.89; labor: $1050.00].
 

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Discussion Starter #5
... and before you ask ... YES, I already changed my timing belt :D

I was going to do it myself, but didn't want to chance voiding my "Chrysler Maximum Care Lifetime Warranty", so I had my local CJDR dealership perform the work.

They replaced the timing belt (MOPAR part #: 4893467AA), belt tensioner (MOPAR part #: 892695AC), serpentine belt (MOPAR part #: 4627697AA), water pump (MOPAR part #: 4892713AC), & turbo water return hose/tube (MOPAR part #: 4893037AD) ... plus used am aerosol "parts cleaner" (MOPAR part #: 68065197AC) ... for a grand total of $1556.57 [parts: $463.68; tax: $42.89; labor: $1050.00].
Wow...your dealer was way cheaper than mine was. Mine wanted almost $2800 for it. Got the parts from Rockauto for like $150 and took it to a local shop I trust. Grand total for everything was around $700
 

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... Got the parts from Rockauto for like $150 ...
Wow! ... That's a great discount on parts! ... I think the dealership charged me $150 (+ 9.25% sales tax) for just the "Genuine Mopar" water pump! :(
 

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I have the 6 speed manual. As far as highest mileage, that is why I mentioned wantsum?. A few months back, he was ahead of me and was hoping he can update us where he is at now. We both have long commutes, so the miles add up quickly. On this forum, I think we are the 2 highest mileage darts.
Still on the original clutch?

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Still on the original clutch?

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Yup. Still original clutch. And brakes. However, I am about to replace the brakes in the next week or two. I'm in the process of piecing my SRT-4 back together, which I will hopefully be finished tomorrow. That has kept my garage occupied for awhile now. Then, the Dart needs an oil change, tire rotation, and new brakes.
 

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... Still original clutch. And brakes. ...
Me too! ... Still the original clutch disc, pressure plate, & clutch slave cylinder/release bearing (though my clutch master cylinder was replaced under warranty @ ~61K miles) ... and still the original brake pads (though my front & rear rotors were replaced @ ~78K).
 

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Meant to share this last week on monday when it happened, but got totally sidetracked. Rolled 175,000 miles. Not sure where @wantsum? is at now. I know you were ahead of me not too long ago.

View attachment 104369


I don't frequent the forum much. I'm at 182k and change as of today. be over 183k by Friday.
For those wondering I have a SE with the 2L and a manual trans. I honestly run the living snot out of the car all the time. It got 2000 miles put on it at Tail of the dragon and surrounding roads this summer. Enough to turn all 4 rotors purple. so its not babied.

Oil changes every 5k. Plugs every 50k.Trans fluid every 100k. I'll be changing the coolant at 200k.

all that's been done outside of maintenance.... 1 front and 1 rear wheel bearing. both front control arms ( ball joint failures ). It will be needing its 3rd set of brakes very soon. just went back to new OEM suspension and wheels from BC's and 18's

I have however started running into issues with it. I've got a 2nd gear noise in the trans. clutch is tired. clutch pedal return spring broke 10k(?) ago and I've been running with out it. Everything rattles. everything.

however, engine neither leaks or burns a drop of oil and runs quiet. Its been a fantastic car, driven very hard, and never left me stranded. When I have a major failure ( I'm thinking trans ) I wont be fixing it. ill be moving on. while its been a great car, its probably the least favorite car I've ever owned.
 

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I don't frequent the forum much. I'm at 182k and change as of today. be over 183k by Friday.
For those wondering I have a SE with the 2L and a manual trans. I honestly run the living snot out of the car all the time. It got 2000 miles put on it at Tail of the dragon and surrounding roads this summer. Enough to turn all 4 rotors purple. so its not babied.

Oil changes every 5k. Plugs every 50k.Trans fluid every 100k. I'll be changing the coolant at 200k.

all that's been done outside of maintenance.... 1 front and 1 rear wheel bearing. both front control arms ( ball joint failures ). It will be needing its 3rd set of brakes very soon. just went back to new OEM suspension and wheels from BC's and 18's

I have however started running into issues with it. I've got a 2nd gear noise in the trans. clutch is tired. clutch peddle return spring broke 10k(?) ago and I've been running with out it. Everything rattles. everything.

however, engine neither leaks or burns a drop of oil and runs quiet. Its been a fantastic car, driven very hard, and never left me stranded. When I have a major failure ( I'm thinking trans ) I wont be fixing it. ill be moving on. while its been a great car, its probably the least favorite car I've ever owned.
How's driving without the clutch return spring? Do you have to help the pedal back up?
 

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How's driving without the clutch return spring? Do you have to help the pedal back up?
the hydraulic pressure returns the pedal fine. over night the peddle will fall about half way. I just pull it up with my foot once and its good to go. I would replace it, but its nearly impossible to get anything short of toddler hands into that area. until it becomes an issue it will continue to be missing!
 

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the hydraulic pressure returns the pedal fine. over night the peddle will fall about half way. I just pull it up with my foot once and its good to go. I would replace it, but its nearly impossible to get anything short of toddler hands into that area. until it becomes an issue it will continue to be missing!
It ain't broken, until it's broken...
 

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its been known to cause clutch failure but if your still on your original clutch, i guess the biggest diff is your commute is long highway driving so you dont shift as much as a in town daily driver. Same for the brakes.
Constant stop and go will always separate the 20K clutch from the 100K plus clutch.
 

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I have a 16 2.0l 6 speed MT with 67,000 on the ticker. I live in Las Vegas, here there is a traffic light every 50 ft. lol. Stop and go is an understatement when it comes to the amount of abuse the car takes. Im still on the original clutch and brakes, but there is a vibration in my pedal so new rotors and pads are probably coming in the near future. As far as the clutch goes i do a lot of spirited driving and the clutch isn't slipping, but doesn't have the same grabbing power as my car did when it was brand new. I've been interested in the CDV kit but i assumed you couldn't really reach it without pulling the trans.
 
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