Rear cntrl arm bushing replace
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    Rear cntrl arm bushing replace

    This is a discussion on Rear cntrl arm bushing replace within the Dodge Dart Suspension - Chassis forums, part of the Dodge Dart Garage - The Mopar Zone category; Replacing rear control arm bushing and having little trouble. Does anyone know what all has to be done to remove and replace or service info ...

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    Thread: Rear cntrl arm bushing replace

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      Rear cntrl arm bushing replace

      Replacing rear control arm bushing and having little trouble. Does anyone know what all has to be done to remove and replace or service info for it would be a lifesaver

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      First be absolutely sure you have a bushing problem. According to online parts diagrams, the bushing is not a separate part. You have to get the whole control arm.

      17 - Rear Suspension / ARM, Lower Control / Removal

      REMOVAL

      1.Raise and support the vehicle (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting/Standard Procedure)

      2.Remove the wheel mounting bolts then the tire and wheel assembly.

      3.While holding the lower stud stationary, remove the lower stabilizer link nut (1) and separate the link from the lower control arm.

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      NOTE: Mark the location of the lower mounting bolt (1) with a grease pencil or equivalent to mark the position to help during installation and rear wheel alignment.

      4. Remove the lower mounting bolt (1) from the lower transversal link (2).

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      5.Support the lower control arm with a jack stand or equivalent.

      6.Remove the lower shock bolt (2) and separate the shock (1) from the lower transversal link and remove the lower transversal link from the lower control arm.

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      7.Remove the upper transversal link (2) nut (1) and bolt (3) from the lower control arm.

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      8.Separate the upper transversal link (2) from the lower control arm.

      9.Remove the upper transversal link mounting bolt (2) and remove the link from the vehicle.

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      10.Slowly lower the jack stand or equivalent and remove the rear spring (1) from the vehicle.

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      11.Remove the brake hose bracket bolt (1) from the lower control arm and remove the bracket from the lower control arm.

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      12.Remove the park brake cable bolt from the front of the lower control arm and separate the cable from the control arm.

      13.Remove the caliper and rotor (Refer to 05 - Brakes, Base/Hydraulic/Mechanical/ROTOR, Brake/Removal)

      14.On vehicles equipped with antilock brakes, remove the screw (1) securing the wheel speed sensor to the hub. Remove the sensor head from the hub
      Remove the hub and bearing bolts (2) and remove the hub and bearing from the lower control arm.

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      15.Mark the location of the front mounting bolts with a paint marker or equivalent. The marked location will be used during installation to make sure the rear alignment is not changed.

      16.Remove the front mounting bolts (1) from the lower control arm and remove the lower control arm (2) from the vehicle.

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      Last edited by alpinegreenneon; 06-13-2019 at 05:35 AM.
      jsblanch likes this.
      -Case

      16 Dart SXT 2.0 TorRed stock
      16 Dart SE 2.0 Laser Blue Pearl stock
      98 Sport Coupe DOHC Alpine Green ATX stock
      95 NYG ACR Coupe (restored)
      18 Ram 1500 3.6 4x4 Std Cab Delmonico Red stock


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      I'll send you some pics to be sure, but when I used pry bar to check bushing it had a lot of play. I was able to get just the bushing and it came in yesterday. It's made by mevotech and part nunber was MS254100. Yeah I did have a little trouble finding one though and the complete trailing arm was $500 plus. I was thinking that I could use a ball joint press to remove old one and install new one while its still on the vehicle but wanted to ask what your opinion would be. I do know my way around cars pretty well. Ive never worked in a shop or actual dealership but I am ASE certified and completed associates in aautomotive technology, but in auto mechanics most stuff requires hands on and doing the work cause you cant really get the true knowledge out of a txt book then a year down the road do the work no problem. I sure do thank you for all the help and time I know it takes away from your day though for reals.

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      I'm not sure if you saw the reply in different post but my rear end did a lot of bouncing around for awhile because tires were scalloped on insde tread. Most likely git that way from my neglect of rotating tires at correct intervals which I never did. One thing ill be doing from now on no doubt about that. Lol

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      You should try to keep the same topic in one post instead of starting new ones. If you click on your screen name, you will see your previous posts.
      If you have access to a shop press, you should be able to figure out how to press it out if it's possible. The control arm is aluminum and it's possible FCA made it impossible. You might find a replacement in good condition at a self serve junkyard from a wrecked Dart.
      If alignment was correct, you should not see scalloping of tires. When you get this replaced, get a 4 wheel alignment. Or look at you tubes how to do it yourself with tape measure, string, and a level.
      -Case

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      16 Dart SE 2.0 Laser Blue Pearl stock
      98 Sport Coupe DOHC Alpine Green ATX stock
      95 NYG ACR Coupe (restored)
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      Yeah I'm still learning to correctly navigate and use forum. This is the first one ive used and didn't realize starting new threads and not replying on existing. I apologize for the confusion with scattered posts.

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