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    Hi ho hi ho it's back to the dealer I go

    This is a discussion on Hi ho hi ho it's back to the dealer I go within the Dodge Dart Mechanical Problems forums, part of the Dodge Dart Forum - Pit Row category; I don't know if anyone else has experienced these issues, but I've made an appointment for Friday (5/1/15): 1. Exhaust smell coming through vent. Mostly ...

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    Thread: Hi ho hi ho it's back to the dealer I go

    1. #1
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      Hi ho hi ho it's back to the dealer I go

      I don't know if anyone else has experienced these issues, but I've made an appointment for Friday (5/1/15):

      1. Exhaust smell coming through vent. Mostly when a cold start and have the heat on...
      2. Slight "pulsing" with acceleration mostly in lower gears when hitting power band
      3. Significant body sway under REAL hard breaking as I noticed last night when a deer ran across the road.
      4. Rear window not optically smooth. When I look in the rear-view mirror through the the rear window, it's almost like the glass is slightly "melted". That's the only way I can explain it...

      I'm not upset about any of these issues and as this isn't my 1st new car, I expect that adjustments need to be made. After all, that's really what the 3/36 warranty is for. I'm just hoping to get a consensus from the group if there are common issues with resolutions I should mention to them. I think I recall seeing something about exhaust gaskets being pinched and/or missing and many threads about "preboost", but don't know if they are all related or not.

      2014 Dart Aero 1.4l turbo manual nearing 2k miles

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      You should test drive other new Darts and see if they are all the same as you are experiencing. If so, its normal (except for the exhaust smell in your cabin).




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      I thought about that, but there aren't any new ones with a stick. It's a small, local dealer and they only have 4 Darts on the lot all together lol Eh, in any event, I'm having them check things out on Friday. I just didn't know if if there were any common issues...

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      I think the rear window is like you describe on every Dart made. My 2013 Rallye is like that as well. The exhaust smell isn't normal, and without experiencing it, it's hard to tell if 2 and 3 are normal Dart quirkiness or a problem.

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      Quote Originally Posted by l33tDad View Post
      I don't know if anyone else has experienced these issues, but I've made an appointment for Friday (5/1/15):

      1. Exhaust smell coming through vent. Mostly when a cold start and have the heat on...
      2. Slight "pulsing" with acceleration mostly in lower gears when hitting power band
      3. Significant body sway under REAL hard breaking as I noticed last night when a deer ran across the road.
      4. Rear window not optically smooth. When I look in the rear-view mirror through the the rear window, it's almost like the glass is slightly "melted". That's the only way I can explain it...

      I'm not upset about any of these issues and as this isn't my 1st new car, I expect that adjustments need to be made. After all, that's really what the 3/36 warranty is for. I'm just hoping to get a consensus from the group if there are common issues with resolutions I should mention to them. I think I recall seeing something about exhaust gaskets being pinched and/or missing and many threads about "preboost", but don't know if they are all related or not.

      2014 Dart Aero 1.4l turbo manual nearing 2k miles
      My dart does #2, and that is only because the engine and the oil are not fully warm... that is what my good buddy (mechanic) told me, he said turbos are very temperamental when it comes to getting into the power band when still cold, thats why he will warm his car up before he drives even if its 95 degrees and humid...
      FOR P0299 CODE: REPLACE YOUR BOOST SOLENOID EITHER VIA THE DEALER OR OEM REPLACEMENT...

      1 of 81 BUILT IDENTICAL

      Mods:
      - MPx Intercooler Pipes
      - Custom Built 3" SRI w/ K&N cone filter
      - Stock Wastegate Adjustment (8mm)
      - RRM Lightweight Pulley
      - DRP Race Dump
      - AEM Boost Gauge
      - CravenSpeed TB Spacer
      - ECS Tuning Catch Can on the line from the PCV to the intake manifold
      - 17"x 7" Konig Control Matte Black Rims
      - BF-Goodrich G-Force Sport COMP-2 tires
      - Black Bezel Headlight Swap
      - RRM Ultimate Stage 3 Tune
      - Drilled & Slotted Brake Rotors
      - Cravenspeed Short Throw Shifter
      - XenonSupply 6000K HID headlights
      - Progress Rear Sway Bar
      - Energy Bushings
      - Moog Front & Rear End Links
      - Deyeme Flex Rear Engine Mount
      - Deyeme CDV Delete
      - HPSI Silicone Vacuum Hose Kit
      - Red Plasti-Dipped Crosshair, Fog light accents & "Mouth" grille
      - AGS Assembly Removal
      - Bosch Alfa Romeo 4C CoilPacks
      - 27" x 7" x 2.5" Upgraded FMIC
      - RRM Hi-Flow Cat Downpipe
      - PTP Turbo Blanket
      - Heat Wrapped Cold Intercooler Pipe
      - Weathertech In-channel Air/rain Deflectors
      - Squadra Sportiva Carbon Nero S shift knob
      - Moog Front Wheel Bearings
      - Oracle Red Halos
      - Forge Atmospheric BOV
      SOON TO COME: MTD Cam, Exhaust Manifold, Turbo & Tune

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      Quote Originally Posted by Exitus04 View Post
      My dart does #2, and that is only because the engine and the oil are not fully warm... that is what my good buddy (mechanic) told me, he said turbos are very temperamental when it comes to getting into the power band when still cold, thats why he will warm his car up before he drives even if its 95 degrees and humid...
      I have driven my car 3x since getting it without letting it warm up. I always prime the engine for like 4 seconds, turn over, and wait the 30secs-1 minute for revs to drop to 1200 before moving. And then I don't do any WOT unless the 2nd light on the oil temp (TFT) is up and coolant above 140°.
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      Quote Originally Posted by undfeatable View Post
      I have driven my car 3x since getting it without letting it warm up. I always prime the engine for like 4 seconds, turn over, and wait the 30secs-1 minute for revs to drop to 1200 before moving. And then I don't do any WOT unless the 2nd light on the oil temp (TFT) is up and coolant above 140°.
      That's definitely the correct way of doing it, but even at 1200rpm that's not full warm idle for our car. My buddies car idles at that cause he has racing cams and it has to idle higher to keep them moving. Have you noticed where your car idles after you drive around for a little while and it's completely warm?

      Sent from my HTC M9 using DodgeDart
      FOR P0299 CODE: REPLACE YOUR BOOST SOLENOID EITHER VIA THE DEALER OR OEM REPLACEMENT...

      1 of 81 BUILT IDENTICAL

      Mods:
      - MPx Intercooler Pipes
      - Custom Built 3" SRI w/ K&N cone filter
      - Stock Wastegate Adjustment (8mm)
      - RRM Lightweight Pulley
      - DRP Race Dump
      - AEM Boost Gauge
      - CravenSpeed TB Spacer
      - ECS Tuning Catch Can on the line from the PCV to the intake manifold
      - 17"x 7" Konig Control Matte Black Rims
      - BF-Goodrich G-Force Sport COMP-2 tires
      - Black Bezel Headlight Swap
      - RRM Ultimate Stage 3 Tune
      - Drilled & Slotted Brake Rotors
      - Cravenspeed Short Throw Shifter
      - XenonSupply 6000K HID headlights
      - Progress Rear Sway Bar
      - Energy Bushings
      - Moog Front & Rear End Links
      - Deyeme Flex Rear Engine Mount
      - Deyeme CDV Delete
      - HPSI Silicone Vacuum Hose Kit
      - Red Plasti-Dipped Crosshair, Fog light accents & "Mouth" grille
      - AGS Assembly Removal
      - Bosch Alfa Romeo 4C CoilPacks
      - 27" x 7" x 2.5" Upgraded FMIC
      - RRM Hi-Flow Cat Downpipe
      - PTP Turbo Blanket
      - Heat Wrapped Cold Intercooler Pipe
      - Weathertech In-channel Air/rain Deflectors
      - Squadra Sportiva Carbon Nero S shift knob
      - Moog Front Wheel Bearings
      - Oracle Red Halos
      - Forge Atmospheric BOV
      SOON TO COME: MTD Cam, Exhaust Manifold, Turbo & Tune

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      A stick or auto will show you all you need to know about those things you are noticing.




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      Maybe I'll see if they'll let me bomb around a little on Friday in a new or program Dart just to compare. This is my 3rd vehicle from them, they like to make me happy lol

      As for warming up, I always go out in the AM, start it up, come back inside and then gather my laptop and whatever I need at work. It's usually warming up for 4 or 5 minutes before I jump in and go. When the engine is cold any other time, I start it then take care of whatever I need which could be putting groceries in the back or whatever. I know the worst thing anyone can do with a vehicle is take off with a cold engine and I try to avoid whenever possible

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      Quote Originally Posted by l33tDad View Post
      Maybe I'll see if they'll let me bomb around a little on Friday in a new or program Dart just to compare. This is my 3rd vehicle from them, they like to make me happy lol

      As for warming up, I always go out in the AM, start it up, come back inside and then gather my laptop and whatever I need at work. It's usually warming up for 4 or 5 minutes before I jump in and go. When the engine is cold any other time, I start it then take care of whatever I need which could be putting groceries in the back or whatever. I know the worst thing anyone can do with a vehicle is take off with a cold engine and I try to avoid whenever possible
      Of course, i do the same thing! but is the pulsing only happening at first? or does it constantly happen?
      FOR P0299 CODE: REPLACE YOUR BOOST SOLENOID EITHER VIA THE DEALER OR OEM REPLACEMENT...

      1 of 81 BUILT IDENTICAL

      Mods:
      - MPx Intercooler Pipes
      - Custom Built 3" SRI w/ K&N cone filter
      - Stock Wastegate Adjustment (8mm)
      - RRM Lightweight Pulley
      - DRP Race Dump
      - AEM Boost Gauge
      - CravenSpeed TB Spacer
      - ECS Tuning Catch Can on the line from the PCV to the intake manifold
      - 17"x 7" Konig Control Matte Black Rims
      - BF-Goodrich G-Force Sport COMP-2 tires
      - Black Bezel Headlight Swap
      - RRM Ultimate Stage 3 Tune
      - Drilled & Slotted Brake Rotors
      - Cravenspeed Short Throw Shifter
      - XenonSupply 6000K HID headlights
      - Progress Rear Sway Bar
      - Energy Bushings
      - Moog Front & Rear End Links
      - Deyeme Flex Rear Engine Mount
      - Deyeme CDV Delete
      - HPSI Silicone Vacuum Hose Kit
      - Red Plasti-Dipped Crosshair, Fog light accents & "Mouth" grille
      - AGS Assembly Removal
      - Bosch Alfa Romeo 4C CoilPacks
      - 27" x 7" x 2.5" Upgraded FMIC
      - RRM Hi-Flow Cat Downpipe
      - PTP Turbo Blanket
      - Heat Wrapped Cold Intercooler Pipe
      - Weathertech In-channel Air/rain Deflectors
      - Squadra Sportiva Carbon Nero S shift knob
      - Moog Front Wheel Bearings
      - Oracle Red Halos
      - Forge Atmospheric BOV
      SOON TO COME: MTD Cam, Exhaust Manifold, Turbo & Tune

     

     
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