follow craven speeds instructions for removing the center console:

https://docs.google.com/a/cravenspe...m/a/cravenspeed.com/document/d/1rRy5TGJFdfOtaRaxGs8exMwvvWOTNmpXH9VG1rh54VI/pub


once you have the center console out you should see something like this:

there will be an adjuster nut that you can tighten up the slack.


How many miles are on your car?

 

Hey thank you so much man I appreciate it and thank you for the pics that helps out a whole lot and as for my miles I'm sorry to say I'm 52k ? But I have to drive about 40 miles to and from work each day and I thought I needed to go through the middle console I was hoping for an easier way lol

 

before you go tearing the center console out, have you checked your rear brake pads to make sure they are not excessively worn>?

 

I will be doing a rear brake pad and rotor change either tomorrow or this weekend... I am having some e-brake issues as well. I will be checking the cables and the kick-back spring (idk the correct name for it lol) to see if its getting stuck or if maybe i have been yanking on the e-brake handle too hard and need to adjust the cables... Will advise!

 

Ya the rear break pads were the first thing I checked actually I usually check them every time I do a Tire Ro I'm pretty OCD over my Dart it's a little rediculous and as For Exitus04 your gonna have to do an adjustment on your E-Brake especially when you put on new pads and rotors but good luck on those man I haven't had to change my brakes on mine yet so keep us posted on how it goes

 

The cables can strech over time. i know they are steel but they do get streched.

 

Yes, this is exactly what I think have done from pulling too hard on the e-brake when parking...

 

Absolutely anything can get worn down over time and even faster if not taken care of properly but I think I'm gonna try to work on my E-Brake today hopefully things go smoothly

 

I finally took apart my whole middle console and was able to adjust my E-Brake which it needed I have pics I just don't know how to post them haha

 

http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/new-member-introduction-site-assistance/29826-how-add-photos.html

 

Hmmm.. dodge no longer sell the e-brake.
A revised part must be in the works.
Cable stretch on a 2013 is not normal, its a manufacturing or design flaw.

 

what part number are looking to get or say is not available?

 

In reply to my previous statements on this thread... When I did my rear rotor and pads change i found the culprit! There are springs attached to the rear calipers that are meant to pull the brake cable for the e-brake back and make the calipers release. I have a 2015 dart and I have already started having issues with those springs... What i had to do was, spray the WHOLE moving mechanism with penetrating spray both on the springs(all moving parts) and the cable jacket. Then I had my father pull of the e-brake handle while holding the button, so it wouldnt lock in place. While he would pull up and the handle, I would pull back down on the spring assembly working the penetrating spray into the moving parts and cable jacket.

It seemed to free the cable up much better and make the springs actually spring back into place!

So, here is a picture from under my car... (It is supposed to be of the awesome Moog endlinks and progress sway bar but you can see what im talking about there) If you see the coil on the back of the caliper (its a vertical gold-ish coil)... that is the kick-back spring I am talking about... They do NOT hold up well to the cold or the spray they put on the ground to prevent ice... Im thinking this is why i have been having issues with it only after a year...

 

In reply to my previous statements on this thread... When I did my rear rotor and pads change i found the culprit! There are springs attached to the rear calipers that are meant to pull the brake cable for the e-brake back and make the calipers release. I have a 2015 dart and I have already started having issues with those springs... What i had to do was, spray the WHOLE moving mechanism with penetrating spray both on the springs(all moving parts) and the cable jacket. Then I had my father pull of the e-brake handle while holding the button, so it wouldnt lock in place. While he would pull up and the handle, I would pull back down on the spring assembly working the penetrating spray into the moving parts and cable jacket.

It seemed to free the cable up much better and make the springs actually spring back into place!

So, here is a picture from under my car... (It is supposed to be of the awesome Moog endlinks and progress sway bar but you can see what im talking about there) If you see the coil on the back of the caliper (its a vertical gold-ish coil)... that is the kick-back spring I am talking about... They do NOT hold up well to the cold or the spray they put on the ground to prevent ice... Im thinking this is why i have been having issues with it only after a year...
View attachment 61086

Well that makes sense..
Car manufacturing is nothing new to Chrysler or Fiat, so shame on them both for allowing something as simple as this get by.

As far as the part #
2013 Dodge Dart park brake lever & cables, front - MoparPartsGiant.com

Strangely searching just that part # some sites indicate that as the cable.

 

I see the spring in this diagram however, I do not see a replacement part # for that spring..
2013 Dodge Dart brakes, rear, disc - MoparPartsGiant.com

 

NOPE! They do not sell the spring by itself.... You HAVE to buy the whole caliper assembly...

I am going to try this. My passenger e-brake sticks. I need to pry it back down on the stops.

Please do! Make sure to take your time and really load on that penetrating spray!

 

1SX90DX9AE has been discontinued its been superseded.

1SX90DX9AJ
2014 DODGE Dart SE 2.0L I4 DOHC, 6-Spd C635 Manual Park Brake Lever and Cables, Front

 

@Exitus04, Just wanted to say THANK YOU, my e-brake started getting stuck a couple of days ago just like what's described in this thread and after using your pics and following the instructions (one person engaging/disengaging e-brake while holding button and me spraying the heck out of the e-brake mechanism on both sides) both sides now engage/disengage perfectly and my e-brake feels nice and tight!

 

Of course! Im glad that everything is working for you! I am still having issues with mine but i think its due to me adjusting the "T" at the lever... I have just been too lazy to screw around with it again...LOL

 

After changing my rear hubs, rotors, and pads there was still no e-brake.
I loaded up the rear spring assembly with grease and adjusted the tension it slowly began to start to work.
After driving a short distance I tested the e-brakes while in motion..
The e-brake worked however, one spring held tension and the other released thus locking the e-brake on only one wheel.
Short while later I was able to release it though it returned to its previous state in which handle would be tight but there would be no brake engagement.
Tonight I will try and resolve this issue.

 

Let me know what you find... i have been having the same issue!

 

So here is what I found:

** NOTE : Right click and "Open in new tab or page" with the images..
I think the board does not like hosting photos with Google .. ----

This make no sense the coil spring wraps around and rests on a nut?
Why is there no bearing to coil around?

Passenger side:

Passenger side:

Oh.. and this is the result .
Perhaps this is why my E-brake does not work?

Drivers side:

Drivers side:

The bad spring is super tight which would explain why my E-brake lever is tight.
Bad Spring:

Can someone take detailed pictures of their perfect working E-brake spring?
I am interested to see if something is missing with my brakes.

 

Go figure..

Recall Number
13V124000
Recall Date
04/03/2013
Component
PARKING BRAKE
Summary
Chrysler Group LLC (Chrysler) is recalling certain model year 2013 Dodge Dart vehicles manufactured on November 27, 2012. Some vehicles may have been built with incorrect rear brake calipers, which could result in an inoperable parking brake.
Consequence
If the parking brake is inoperable, the vehicle could roll when parked increasing the risk of a crash.
What Owners Should Do
Chrysler will notify owners, and dealers will replace the affected brake calipers, free of charge. The recall began on April 29, 2013. Owners may contact Chrysler at 1-800-247-9753. Chrysler's recall campaign number is N21.

Read more at https://www.cars.com/recalls/dodge-dart-2013/#Vp6D7f1LjXQmTxLZ.99

 

Well.. The local dodge dealership played dumb dumb "we never heard of that", and claimed that the "Recall did not exist".. So I contacted Chryslers phone # as listed in the post above and low and behold it does exist. The way it works is like this:
Recalls are deemed by the NHTSA not the auto manufacture.
Basically if the problem is something that causes the vehicle to not be safe for the road then the NHTSA steps in and tells the manufacture to either fix it or the vehicle loses it right to be sold.
So.. The service rep jackass at my dealership, FX Caprara of Watertown, NY told me this morning that I could essentially buy a new caliper.. I was pretty pissed off, and thats when I returned home and called the Chrysler phone # and found out that it does indeed exist. They however, wanted me to drop off my vehicle and leave it with the nasty liars at the dealership. Not happening.
So I tore into the problem myself.
Here is what I discovered..
You can fix it.
It is not corrosion.(well not yet anyways..)
Super coating that spring with WD40 or equivalent is not helping the problem.
It is a matter of a rubber dust / grease boot that fails to do what it supposed to do.
Mine was filled with what appeared to be sand or dirt.
I cleaned, greased, and re-assembled everything.
My E-brake works again.

Use WD40 with a scrub brush to remove rust, clean the rubber bushing inside and out, clean the rotating surface, reassemble, and for extra measure fill the inside of the rubber seal with white lithium grease, or bearing grease.

Enjoy your E-Brake again.

 

Well.. The local dodge dealership played dumb dumb "we never heard of that", and claimed that the "Recall did not exist".. So I contacted Chryslers phone # as listed in the post above and low and behold it does exist. The way it works is like this:
Recalls are deemed by the NHTSA not the auto manufacture.
Basically if the problem is something that causes the vehicle to not be safe for the road then the NHTSA steps in and tells the manufacture to either fix it or the vehicle loses it right to be sold.
So.. The service rep jackass at my dealership, FX Caprara of Watertown, NY told me this morning that I could essentially buy a new caliper.. I was pretty pissed off, and thats when I returned home and called the Chrysler phone # and found out that it does indeed exist. They however, wanted me to drop off my vehicle and leave it with the nasty liars at the dealership. Not happening.
So I tore into the problem myself.
Here is what I discovered..
You can fix it.
It is not corrosion.(well not yet anyways..)
Super coating that spring with WD40 or equivalent is not helping the problem.
It is a matter of a rubber dust / grease boot that fails to do what it supposed to do.
Mine was filled with what appeared to be sand or dirt.
I cleaned, greased, and re-assembled everything.
My E-brake works again.
View attachment 71810
View attachment 71818
View attachment 71826
View attachment 71834

Use WD40 with a scrub brush to remove rust, clean the rubber bushing inside and out, clean the rotating surface, reassemble, and for extra measure fill the inside of the rubber seal with white lithium grease, or bearing grease.

Enjoy your E-Brake again.

Thank you... I did this with my car and for added measure add some bearing grease inside of the rubber boots at the hand brakes area. This will keep dust out and we'll lubricated.

 

@captaingowa, thanks for the info.

 

the spring in that first picture was not installed correctly. all of the hoops should be sitting on the bolt. Also its super easy to remove the cable from the bracket, you have to line up the window and use 2 screwdrivers to unlock it from the bracket. I think better then ripping half the car appart to get to ebrake handle.

 

the spring in that first picture was not installed correctly. all of the hoops should be sitting on the bolt.

Actually, that is what happens when the caliper armature is stuck and not disengaging the e-brake.
Thus resulting in driver beast mode vs. e-brake handle = caliper death spring

 

I had this problem with the Right-Rear. Was able to push the rubber seal away from its landing (behind the spring and bracket) and spray some LPS-1 ( WD-40 or whatever flavor you have) inside. Took the spring off and worked it back and forth for about 30 seconds and it is now completely free like new. Do not know if it will last but we will see. Might do this as regular maintenance when I swap my winter/summer tires in spring and fall. The guy that designed the rubber boot should be shot. 36,000 miles Rallye 1.4.

 

Just to say that today i had to adjust the e brake cable. My situation started as the caliper staying locked on the driver side even when the e brake was disengaged. A friend and I replaced the caliper and then the other side began to do the exact same thing.
Knowing it was an e brake cable issue this weekend I took the whole console of my car out to see if I could physically see the issue. Once I did the passenger cable wasnt releasing tension. Fiddling ensued.
The moral here is that the calipers have that section that holds the e brake cable and in that assembly the e brake cable arm has a ratchet mechanism inside. To get that cable to tighten up after you get good tension on the cable you have to put the car in reverse and go like 3-5 mph and slam the brakes. The ratchet will tighten enough on that e brake arm that when you lift off the e brake handle I will release enough tension to let the caliper release fully. It is a trail and error process with many reverse brake slams to get feeling just right.

 

View attachment 117872 View attachment 117872 View attachment 117872


Just to say that today i had to adjust the e brake cable. My situation started as the caliper staying locked on the driver side even when the e brake was disengaged. A friend and I replaced the caliper and then the other side began to do the exact same thing.
Knowing it was an e brake cable issue this weekend I took the whole console of my car out to see if I could physically see the issue. Once I did the passenger cable wasnt releasing tension. Fiddling ensued.
The moral here is that the calipers have that section that holds the e brake cable and in that assembly the e brake cable arm has a ratchet mechanism inside. To get that cable to tighten up after you get good tension on the cable you have to put the car in reverse and go like 3-5 mph and slam the brakes. The ratchet will tighten enough on that e brake arm that when you lift off the e brake handle I will release enough tension to let the caliper release fully. It is a trail and error process with many reverse brake slams to get feeling just right.

More pictures. Check out the huge gap that the adjustment nut had to take up.

 

Do you think it’s possible to change the caliper and e-brake so your not dealing with this dumb design they have on here

 

You could look at the Chrysler 200 or Jeep Cherokee. I know somebody here did a "poor man's big brake kit" on the front brakes by swapping in the 2-piston calipers from a Cherokee. They're the most likely to be even remotely compatible with the Dart, since they were based on the same platform. That said, they both use an electric e-brake, so good look retrofitting that into a Dart.

 

Have a different system for the e-brake

 

It would be really difficult to find something that would fit and would cost at least 3 times as much.

 

😩well thank you guys for the advice looks like I’m just gonna have to deal with needing to spray these damn springs down every so often
What a terrible design

 

No, you're going to have to periodically rebuild the rear calipers. Spraying the springs is pointless, they don't actually do a whole lot. The problem is that gunk gets inside the caliper from the rear side and causes the shaft for the parking brake to bind and jam inside the mechanism. You have to rebuild the caliper to clean it out, and if it's corroded like one of mine was, it might fail again in a few months (like mine did), in which case you need to replace the caliper. The motto of the Dart should be "That's a pretty neat idea, but too bad about the botched execution of it."