Initial Review/Unboxing Xenon-Vision HIDs...
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    Initial Review/Unboxing Xenon-Vision HIDs...

    This is a discussion on Initial Review/Unboxing Xenon-Vision HIDs... within the Dodge Dart Lighting forums, part of the Dodge Dart Garage - The Mopar Zone category; LINK: http://www.xenonvisionhid.com/ Part 1 I will first off by stating this actually won't be going in my car. More of my friends dart due to ...

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      Initial Review/Unboxing Xenon-Vision HIDs...

      LINK: http://www.xenonvisionhid.com/

      Part 1

      I will first off by stating this actually won't be going in my car. More of my friends dart due to me having stock D3S HIDs in my new dart. That doesn't mean I cannot keep a good eye on them after install, and be able to get tons of pics! So the package came in the mail today. Typical 2 day USPS shipping, which is amazing for companies. Try ordering from DDM Tuning (another HID company) and see how long your package takes. Considering it comes straight from China, literally. The packaging was great. I probably don't need to review these things, but if you've seen how some companies pack their crap (*cough* DDM *cough*) and considering that there are expensive electronics and fragile bulbs inside, its a good note to take.
        Spoiler: Part 1 Wall of Pics 

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      Overall packing was fantastic. Only thing I could recommend differently is the casing around the bulbs. I noticed mine were loose/not around the bulb base entirely when I opened it. While the bulbs themselves are inside Styrofoam, I think something could be added to keep the plastic casing entirely on the bulb unless taken off by the customer. The locking fins on the base of the bulb do a okay job at holding it, but I have seen others also place like a Styrofoam ring around the base too to keep that casing entirely stuck on.


      Next I got into the kit, and honestly, I am very impressed. The build quality of the wiring, the connectors, the ballasts, everything is top notch. I'll be honest I was ready to hammer on anything I found sub par (like as simple as the bulb casing), but I really like this kit. The ballast seems to be an all aluminum case, with a great finish. And when they say slim ballasts, they mean SLIM ballasts. I just used a basic ruler, so nothing crazy exact but they came in with Height a little over 8.5 inches, length at 7 inches and the width at a whopping 1 whole inch. These things can fit just about anywhere. I mentioned the wiring before, the wires from the ballasts are a cross weaved possibly nylon fabric along all the connectors. On the amp connector side is a similar site to the TRS connector setup. Not sure if this is a new standard in amp connectors, but it's very similar to one of the leaders in the HID business. On the OEM connector side we also have a good site. There is a box in the middle of the wiring with the words "smart" on them. Essentially go to my Original HID thread from TRS, and look at their canbus harness that plugs into their ballast. Let me know what you think. I am assuming, that inside that box will be your capacitors and resistors and other components that make the car happy when it comes to CANbus error free happy systems. A lot of ballasts will have them built into the ballast, some are done outside to make the ballasts smaller and easier to mount. And of course on the back of the ballast it shows CANBUS ballast. Which is what you want to see.

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      The .org only allows you to post so many pics per post. So I will continue this with future posts so my pics all show up.
      Last edited by Cntrollerfanboy; 04-19-2018 at 06:05 AM.
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      Part 2...

        Spoiler: Wall of Pics 2 
      The rest of the unboxing I noticed they also gave some mounting brackets. Bolts or 3M tape if you prefer.

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      The cool thing I noticed, which was an idea of mine prior all this, they actually include a grounding wire for the mounting plate! I've always had a hunch that maybe the error message in the cold was due to the previous ballasts casing (typically aluminum or other metals) being the cause of issues when they get cold. I always thought to maybe ground the actual case, but there was never anywhere to mount it to. This is a pretty cool idea and I will test this with and without the plate and see how it goes.

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      The only downside to the bracket (which you don't need to use btw) is it was pretty rough machined metal. Which I can totally understand. Most companies charge extra for them typically, and it's not an essential or typically used part. I honestly have never used mounting brackets. I however will have the perfect spot for these, and will show that during my install portion. The way the bracket is designed makes it perfect for a simple easy place of mounting. No take or bolts needed! But for extra support I will probably use the tape too. Also I found that the bracket didn't hold the ballast all that well inside it. It holds, but I could see some spirited driving or bumps knock it loose if mounted in the vertical position. Which I won't be doing, but there are some other very good mounting spots on this car that are vertical if people want to take that route. My suggestion is that maybe another small 3M tape pad is provided to stick the ballast to the mount. My methods will actually involve putting the ballast in the reverse direction of the picture shown on the mount. I want to use the triangular portion to wedge into a slit inside the fender wells. Also I said the metal was kind of rough, and i mean just on the edges. Not like I cut my finger lightly handling it, but it did feel like a sharp edge almost all the way around. Just an observation.

      And lastly the bulbs. Casing was already covered, but honestly looks like a TRS brand bulb. Similar high quality wire mesh, same braided nylon on the wires themselves. Bulb is branded as 9012 specific, so should fit our cars perfectly (2013-2015). 2016's use 9005 FYI for anything buying.

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      Last thing to do is install... coming soon to a .org near you.
      Last edited by Cntrollerfanboy; 10-23-2016 at 05:30 PM. Reason: added info and pics
      Looking for HIDs? Xenon-Vision install click HERE




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      Part 3...

      Install day was yesterday. I finally got everything in, and the verdict... Everything works great! Install was simple, and even with taking all the pictures for the install it probably only took me an hour of my time.

      First pic October 22nd, 6:49pm. Last pic taken October 22nd, 7:29pm.

      Okay let's beggin...
        Spoiler: Wall of Pics 3 

      I first started by taking a pic of the XK Glow 76W LED headlights that were originally in the test car. They were pretty good with not throwing errors, but light output in my opinion was, subpar. I did not happen to get a pic of the lights on the road, but it was not fully dark yet when I started the install.
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      Getting into the install, it first starts off with getting to the headlights. The next two pictures show where the you will need to get to in order to access the headlight.

      Remove the access panel in the fender well
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      Remove the cap from the back of the headlight. It's a quarter left turn to remove. Once inside the stock bulb is in there, also give it a quarter turn to the left and take out the bulb, then disconnect the socket connected to it.
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      With the cap removed, you will need to drill a hole in cap to fit the wires through it. I stole these pics from my other HID thread. As I didn't have my drill tool to drill the holes. I am going to install the caps later today.

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      Once the light is removed and you have your new HID bulb ready inside the cap, then we can install it into the housing now. When installing, you almost have to go in blind. Unless you remove the tire, you cannot really see where you are going. Be very careful during this step. The bulb is obviously very fragile, along with the return wire on it. You don't want to break your bulb before it's even installed. By best suggestion is pop your head in there and get a feel where you are going. Maybe get some sort of light source and shine it directly into the headlight so you can easily see the hole that you need to put the bulb in. Once you understand that, the second hardest part is making sure you can lock the bulb in. The way the bulbs are designed, it's like an elbow. You want the base of the bulb (where the wires come out of) to be pointing almost directly to the right because you then want to turn it to the right for a quarter turn. The next two pics will show what the inside of the housing looks like, and what it looks like when the HID bulb is fully locked in.

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      Once the bulb is installed, you want to look for the bright blue male end of wire that comes with the bulb. This is the OEM input plug. You will take the socket that you removed from the stock light bulb, and insert it into this blue plug.
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      This is the OEM wire. Another important step is make sure the positive (green) wire goes to the blue wire of blue socket from the HID bulb. Plug clicks and locks into the socket, but the blue socket has locking tabs on both ends. So it can go both ways. Just keep it consistent starting here, and it will make your life a lot easier because when you plug it into the ballast, the ballast has a + and - on it you will need to match up. If it's backwards it simply won't turn on.
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      Last edited by Cntrollerfanboy; 10-23-2016 at 05:31 PM. Reason: added
      McLabia likes this.
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      Part 4...

        Spoiler: Wall of Pics 4 
      Now to get to the ballast installation. I took a pic of what the entire system will look like (on one side).

      In the pic the ballast has one female end socket, and then it has two small AMP connectors. Going back to the post above with the bulb installation, you have a male end side of the plug that the OEM plug went into, then you have the same two AMP connectors. I think you can see where this is going. Those go to each other!
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      My personal chose of ballast location is here. It's a slit in the engine bay fenders, and if you use the provided mounting brackets, you can slide the triangular end into this slit and it's going to stay put. I forgot to take a picture of the ground wire for the mounting bracket. This may not even be necessary but I did it anyways. If you put the ballasts here, you will see the L shaped bracket that is right above the ballast. There is a nice 10mm bolt through that bracket, simply remove that bolt, and put the ground there. I have used that bolt for many grounds before and is a very good one. You can even see it in the pictures below.
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      Once your ballasts are in place, you want the route the wires down to where your bulbs are. If you're stock the only issue you might run into is the air box. If you have a CAI then this will not be an issue. I was able to fit the big block AMP connectors down there by removing the coolant hose out of it's little hook and then pushed all the wires down there, then replaced the coolant hose into it's loop. On the driver side, just pass it down behind the battery. The cool thing I didn't know is that there are LEDs inside the ballast connector that show that they are receiving power. This is a cool feature, and will help in trouble shooting if something is not working. If your ballast gets power but your light is not on, then the issue is your bulb. This would have been VERY helpful to me earlier in the day. I was helping my friend with his HIDs on his 200. 3/4 of his lights did not work. One was just a bulb, the other two was a ballast was shorting out and causing the relay fuse to blow, killing both lights. But back to the topic at hand...

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      I took a pic comparing the new HIDs (right) and previous LEDs (left). What you can notice is the HID has a very intense "hot spot" right in the center. If you look at stock lights up against a wall you notice the same thing. This is the DISTANCE of light output. Seeing further out, and directly in front of you is the main point of light that you want out of the headlights. Adding HIDs (or high powered LEDs which is actually what I use) to the fog lights will give you that outside light as well. So for overall best lighting, upgrading both headlights and fogs (if you have them) are your best bet. The LEDs did a good job, but I just felt the light didn't go as far and was bright up to a point and then just abruptly stopped.

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      Last three pics are with both HIDs (only headlights on) on the garage and on the road. Low beam, then high beam on the road.

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      Last edited by Cntrollerfanboy; 10-23-2016 at 05:32 PM. Reason: added
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      Part 5

      Everything is updated. I would really like to thank @Xenon-Vision for letting me try these out. I will be honest, I was very skeptical when they showed up. But after getting my hands on these, and trying them out I am more than impressed. It hasn't gotten to below freezing temps yet, but overall I would have to say these matched if not superior quality to my initial go to HID source, theretrofitsource. I will further update with any issues that might come up
      Last edited by Cntrollerfanboy; 10-23-2016 at 03:26 PM.
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      Looking for the install part. I'm not a fan of aftermarket HID install which is often a pain in the *** and didn't do mine so far but if the kit is an easy install and error free I might do it.
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      Very interesting because Ohio is cold and most of the time issue came with colder temperature.

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      looking forward to the results.
      will most likely make the switch if they go error free in the cold.
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      Looks legit!

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      Still getting around to install. Don't worry @Xenon-Vision I will get the rest of the review up very soon! Just with tests on the horizon, and my fathers birthday this weekend, I haven't had a lot of time to do much.
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