2013 1.4L Turbo Front Lower Control Arm Removal Problem - Page 2
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    2013 1.4L Turbo Front Lower Control Arm Removal Problem

    This is a discussion on 2013 1.4L Turbo Front Lower Control Arm Removal Problem within the Dodge Dart General Discussion forums, part of the Dodge Dart Forum - Dodge Dart Discussion category; Step 4 is just to have the horizontal and vertical bolts torqued at ride height. You could estimate that height and just use your floor ...

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    Thread: 2013 1.4L Turbo Front Lower Control Arm Removal Problem

    1. #11
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      Step 4 is just to have the horizontal and vertical bolts torqued at ride height. You could estimate that height and just use your floor jack to get it approximate. Step 9 and 10 is where the ball joint stud is installed. It's going to take a pry bar to get the stud in after those bolts are torqued. I have not done this myself on a Dart yet.
      A Neon has a similar lower control arm and I have done those several times and the horizontal and vertical bolts are torqued to 120 ft lbs but not at ride height. It does require a pry bar to then get the ball joint stud in. On a Neon, the only thing tightened at ride height is the sway bar bolts.
      -Case

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      Thanks


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      So I managed to put both arms on. It was a project to get them in but once in the rest was smooth. Thanks.


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    5. #14
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      You are welcome. Glad I could help. Having the right info is essential to be able to do a project like this yourself.
      -Case

      16 Dart SXT 2.0 TorRed stock
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      Quote Originally Posted by Scramboogalot View Post
      So I managed to put both arms on. It was a project to get them in but once in the rest was smooth. Thanks.


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      Did you re-use the bolts or replace them since the directions said to install new ones?

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      Quote Originally Posted by Javelin3o4 View Post
      Did you re-use the bolts or replace them since the directions said to install new ones?
      Same ones it had.


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      Hey @alpinegreenneon - Do you know the specs of new bolts/nuts that are needed to replace a control arm? I need to replace mine on the right side.

    9. #18
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      You can email Benny to get the part numbers.
      [email protected]

      I would stay with oem bolts/nuts. The FSM does say to use NEW bolts/nuts. You will need a nice long pipe to lever out the ball joint stud. Always fun when I try to do this at the junkyard.


      The torques are listed here:
      Name:  dartfrontsusptorques.jpg
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      -Case

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      Quote Originally Posted by alpinegreenneon View Post
      You can email Benny to get the part numbers.
      [email protected]

      I would stay with oem bolts/nuts. The FSM does say to use NEW bolts/nuts. You will need a nice long pipe to lever out the ball joint stud. Always fun when I try to do this at the junkyard.


      The torques are listed here:
      One more question. How does one detect "play" in the control arm? Jacked up or on the ground, both the left and right side control arms seem rock solid to me, but the reason the shop gave for not being able to do an alignment yesterday was because there is play in the right front control arm. There are no steering issues, no clunking noises, and the car rides as well as it ever has with its brand new tires. I'm 99.999% sure they aren't scamming me, because they recommended that I look at other less expensive options and they were cool when 10 minutes later I said I had already ordered the part and would replace it myself. Plus, they're basically refusing easy money, because they're basically charging an hour's labor for an alignment that likely takes less than half an hour. They don't even need to look up the specs for the Dart, since I left them sitting on the passenger seat. There are no steering issues, no clunking noises, and the car rides as well as it ever has with its brand new tires.

      Actually, I have a second question, just to be sure I understand how the ball joint stud is pried out of the knuckle. The pry bar is wedged in between the front crossmember and the front bolt/bushing with the shaft resting on top of the control arm, and then you apply pressure downward toward the ground so that the shaft of the pry bar is pressing down on the top of the control arm. Is that correct? And then I assume you do the reverse to press the new ball joint stud into the knuckle. I'm gonna need a better pry bar, and some steel pipe.

    11. #20
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      It may be the play they detect is the ball joint because that it is integral to the control arm. It is not a separate part that can be pressed out.
      The ball joint stud is almost two inches long. The first inch is easy, the rest almost takes two people leaning on it. Pry on anything that looks solid. There was a you tube on replacing the cv joint axle. See if you can find that.
      jsblanch likes this.
      -Case

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      98 Sport Coupe DOHC Alpine Green ATX stock
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