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Javelin3o4's Speaker Swap.

18K views 28 replies 11 participants last post by  Javelin3o4 
#1 ·
Got some speakers to put in,

Doors: Kicker KS693
Dash: KA35

I also have a 8" Kicker sub coming on Tuesday, hoping it fits but if it doesnt not too huge of a deal.

The door pods (or plastic that the speaker mounts to needed alot of triming to make them fit, but I got one in and it sounds really good.

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#9 ·
Got the front doors and the dash done, the rear doors will have to wait til later next week. The dremel attachment that holds the sanding wheel decided to grenade so I have to get a new one to put the rear door speakers in. Dash speakers just drop in without any mods.

View attachment 40981
What is required to remove the Dash Speakers? Looks like you just popped-off the face-plate, or does the dash need to be removed? A wider angle lens would reveal more in the photo.
 
#5 ·
Most speakers will fit the rear basket. The mounting depth on those KS's are 3 3/16 so you should have a problem fitting those right into the rear doors.

So what amp is powering these kickers? Also, did you use a wiring harness for all your speakers or did you just cut off the existing harness and bare wire connect it?
 
#8 ·
I put the KS in all around also. The rear did need a little trimming but not as much as the front. I also put 3/8 weather stripping on the backside perimeter of each speaker to bump it out just a bit, you just have to be careful to tighten all screws evenly and not warp the speaker frame. These speakers sound spectacular and have plenty of power off the factory system (which I believe is Alpine made), I rarely turn mine up past 21. listening to 320 kbps Mp3s also makes a HUGE difference, I had to update my entire music libray... I'm putting a sub in the rear deck in a few weeks too, let me know if the kicker fits right in.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Got the rear speakers in today, it did requre some trimming to get the speaker to fit in the hole in the door, depth isnt too much of an issue because it doesnt have the plastic for the speaker magnet to hit but the opening just had to be opened up a little wider.

Also got the Kicer Comp 8 sub in aswell, that dropped in, had to use two speed clips though since the speaker holes didnt line up with the holes from the factory.


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#17 · (Edited)
The stock cover went back on so you can't tell by looking in the car. There are some sensors or something as well on top like right. Behind the trunk light. I didn't put 3.5" in the rear deck.

I have,

6x9 in all four doors
3.5" in dash
8" sub in the rear deck.

Put my 6 button evic switch. In as well, so hopefully everything goes well at the dealer tomorrow for the tft swap.
 
#18 ·
Got my amp today , just need to figure out where I want to stash it. I was wondering if anyone ever tried to put a aftermarket amp where the factory Alpine amp would be? Otherwise I'm thinking long bolts through the top of the rear deck, to keep it up and out of the way, maybe behind panel or something, definitely not mounting it to the back of the seat. Nice thing with this amp is it does come with brackets to mount it vertical if needed.

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#19 ·
Got everything mounted up. The rear deck is defiantly a bit flimsy so if you like that hard slapping ghetto bass be prepared to hear alot of rattling, I got my turned to where you can tell the sub is there, hear it on good bass notes and can cause the rear view to vibrate really good without hearing a bunch of panel rattle.

I know the amp shouldn't be mounted upside down, but I must have went to lowes and home depot several times trying to find bolts that were completely threaded that were the right length and diameter, with no luck I ended up mounting it upside down. The amp does have small openings on the bottom and there is a good 1.5-2" gap for air flow so I think it will be ok. I just need to dremel off the excess length on that bolt on the left.

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#22 · (Edited)
#24 ·
Anybody know how to remove the front door covers without breaking anything?
 
#25 ·
The door panels are really really hard to get off the first time you take them off. Best option would be if you had a panel tool, but a long one preferably one made of metal. I had a short plastic one and the clips were so tight that the panel tool would bend. Basically just take the cover off behind the door handle, remove 1 screw and 1 bolt. Remove the rubber peice inside the door pull below the window switch, another screw. Then pop out the window switch bezel its only held in by clips. Pull out the little plastic trinagle plastic in the corner of the door panel. Then ones you get a corner of the door panel free just pull it pretty hard to pop the clips. Some may stay in the door but shouldnt break the panel, just remove those and place them back on the door panel. Then once you got the door panel off the door, pull the door handle and you should be able to push it off the door panel. Disconnect the wire for the fuel button, and then disconnect the harness from the window switch.
 
#28 · (Edited)
The sub is designed to also work as a free air sub which is important when finding a sub to put there. I actually have the gain on the amp down pretty good, maybe only up 1/4 of the way, but on certain songs with certain bass tones its enough to feel the rumble in the seats and shake all the mirrors on the car.
 
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