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    getting ready to replace spark plug well seals...has anyone done this on their own?

    This is a discussion on getting ready to replace spark plug well seals...has anyone done this on their own? within the Dodge Dart 1.4L MultiAir Turbo forums, part of the Dodge Dart Garage - The Mopar Zone category; Originally Posted by Bullfrog agreed, seems a bit excessive to just replace seals. @ alpinegreenneon did you include more information then needed or is that ...

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    Thread: getting ready to replace spark plug well seals...has anyone done this on their own?

    1. #11
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      Quote Originally Posted by Bullfrog View Post
      agreed, seems a bit excessive to just replace seals. @alpinegreenneon did you include more information then needed or is that how its called out in the FSM?
      I think it's because to get the valve cover off, you need to remove some components, and to remove those components, you need to remove other components, and so on, until you reach the ultimate conclusion that you cannot remove the valve cover on the 1.4T Dart without removing the aerodynamic belly pan. This is almost Ford Contour levels of overly clever engineering.

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      When you are actually doing the procedure, you may find some things are not in the way. Perhaps, you don't need to remove the intake manifold or some of the other things mentioned. If so, let us know.
      -Case

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    3. #13
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      Quote Originally Posted by PBMTMD View Post
      It seems someone replaced the valve cover gasket and spark plug seals without a lot of the steps shown above and provided the following write-up. Comments?

      https://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/dodg...placement.html
      thank you for this...makes it look doable in my driveway at least!

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      Quote Originally Posted by Mjf6866 View Post
      thank you for this...makes it look doable in my driveway at least!
      I was hoping that @alpinegreenneon (or at least someone that has used this writeup) would comment on this before you do it - it might help to have additional insights to whether this writeup could have unexpected (or unreported) problems. For example, it doesn't mention using the RTV sealant on the valve cover gasket that I know has been mentioned in this and other threads. I'm also curious because I replaced my Oil Separator Box o-ring with the Viton O-ring and still had the burning oil smell after hard braking and/or turns after the engine is warm and noticed oil in my spark plug wells when I last swapped plugs.

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      Quote Originally Posted by Mjf6866 View Post
      thank you for this...makes it look doable in my driveway at least!
      If you end up doing this, please let us know how it goes and any lessons learned! As I mentioned above, you might want to add the sealant at the points mentioned by AlpineGreenNeon to the procedures mentioned in the link I provided.

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      Quote Originally Posted by PBMTMD View Post
      If you end up doing this, please let us know how it goes and any lessons learned! As I mentioned above, you might want to add the sealant at the points mentioned by AlpineGreenNeon to the procedures mentioned in the link I provided.
      Yeah, well, you'd better add the RTV sealant where specified, if you don't want the engine to be leaking fluids. It should be pretty obvious where it's needed, though, because you will need to clean off the old RTV sealant before installing new gaskets/seals.

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      Ill be doing mine next week, along with vacuum pump seal, o rings, and PCV Viton seal. I have had the burning oil smell for a while now at only 42k miles, its stinks so bad I don't drive the car right now until I fix it. I also get a random traction light from time to time which is due to a bad booster check valve 68053596AA which I also ordered and will be replacing at the same time. I ordered all the parts from TascaParts and should be getting them tomorrow. I took a look at everything and this looks very easy to do without going through all the steps the Mopar service manual calls for. I will take pictures and post when I do mine if it helps anyone. I also ordered the Mopar RTV sealant the manual calls for from Amazon for $9 shipped.

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      Quote Originally Posted by wasaab View Post
      Ill be doing mine next week, along with vacuum pump seal, o rings, and PCV Viton seal. I have had the burning oil smell for a while now at only 42k miles, its stinks so bad I don't drive the car right now until I fix it. I also get a random traction light from time to time which is due to a bad booster check valve 68053596AA which I also ordered and will be replacing at the same time. I ordered all the parts from TascaParts and should be getting them tomorrow. I took a look at everything and this looks very easy to do without going through all the steps the Mopar service manual calls for. I will take pictures and post when I do mine if it helps anyone. I also ordered the Mopar RTV sealant the manual calls for from Amazon for $9 shipped.
      As promised here is the guide to how I fixed my burning oil smell by replacing the valve cover gasket, spark plug tube seals, and the vacuum booster pump gasket. Here is what you will need to carry out this repair. I bought my parts from Tascaparts.com but any Mopar parts site should had the same items.

      You will need Valve cover gasket part# 68145088AA
      Engine Valve Cover Washer Seal part# 68166329AA (you will need 4 of them as these are sold individually)
      Vacuum pump gasket part# 68140726AC
      Mopar RTV sealant from Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/Chrysler-Acce...ords=mopar+rtv

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      continued on next post...
      Last edited by wasaab; 05-07-2018 at 01:33 PM.
      Bullfrog and '13Mopar315 like this.

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      Step9
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      Pull the old valve cover gasket out by hand and clean with brake clean on a rag, the new valve cover seal goes in very easily and fits in a channel on the valve cover. You can't mess it up as it only goes on one way, also don't worry about the gasket falling out when putting the cover back in as the channel on the valve cover holds it in rather snug.

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      Step11
      Put the valve cover back on and torque down accordingly.
      Step 1: All to 5 N·m (44 in. lbs.).
      Step 2: All to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.).
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      I posted too many pictures so it won't let me continue but for the pump you just put the new gasket and reattach the pump back to the head(no sealant is used on this part). Its very simple but if someone needs more direction on this let me know. Re-attach everything in reverse order and you are ready to test it all out. Hope this helps someone as the factory manual makes this process way too complicated!
      Last edited by wasaab; 05-09-2018 at 05:15 PM.

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      wow, thank you so much for the pictures and writeup! i plan on doing mine soon too...this will help immensely.

     

     
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