Review thread and thanks to Deyeme: short shift, rod, rear mount, and CDV Delete kit - Page 6
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    Review thread and thanks to Deyeme: short shift, rod, rear mount, and CDV Delete kit

    This is a discussion on Review thread and thanks to Deyeme: short shift, rod, rear mount, and CDV Delete kit within the Deyeme Racing forums, part of the Vendors category; If I reduce that pic about to 75% and measure the length, it's about 40 mm just like the Neon stud. Your shop should be ...

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    Thread: Review thread and thanks to Deyeme: short shift, rod, rear mount, and CDV Delete kit

    1. #51
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      If I reduce that pic about to 75% and measure the length, it's about 40 mm just like the Neon stud. Your shop should be able to heat the stud and then hammer it out. It should be just like removing and installing a lug stud for a wheel. Let us know how it goes. It would be great if the Neon stud works since this is likely going to be a common problem as the Darts age.
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    2. #52
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      Quote Originally Posted by alpinegreenneon View Post
      If I reduce that pic about to 75% and measure the length, it's about 40 mm just like the Neon stud. Your shop should be able to heat the stud and then hammer it out. It should be just like removing and installing a lug stud for a wheel. Let us know how it goes. It would be great if the Neon stud works since this is likely going to be a common problem as the Darts age.
      Agreed and I'm hopeful that will be the ticket. Since it is my cousin's shop I'll be able to take pictures and video so I'll have all the low down on what happens. Side note I cannot wait to get this damn mount replaced.. my shifter had ended up all Willy nilly.. the slop in it is almost unbearable at this point and there is just no quick shifting anymore and I have realized it is in direct proportion to how bad the mount is getting. It started with a little slop, followed by notchiness and clickyness in shifting. Now it's just horrible. But a shadow of what it was some 7 months ago when I first test drove dartanyion.. the mount alone should make it much better. The arm and rod should pretty much bring it right on home. And the cdv delete will make it a dream. It will be so nice to put it in gear from a stop and not have to wait for the torque to calm down to move the engine and trans to the right angle to short into second easily again..

      I'm going to make it a point to do some video of the shifting before and after in hopes that someone in the future who starts having these symptoms can just go ahead and nip it in the bud. It's an atrocity that a car with only 37000 miles needs 3/4 the shift linkage replaced just to make it work, and with these parts at least I should never have this problem again.
      Last edited by Dartanyion; 02-17-2019 at 09:21 PM.
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    3. #53
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      *****Update*****

      I got the mount installed finally! You know what? Use a ratcheting closed box wrench.. You don't have to take the exhaust off if you do. If I would have realized that, I wouldn't have tried to unbolt it (and snap a stud). I still have to replace that stud. There wasn't enough time at the shop before closing for them to fix it, but.. Here's my findings:

      Shifting is a bit easier than it was. There is still a very 'clicky' feeling to the shifter, but I can much easier go into gears. Next up is the rod and arm. Then the CDV delete. Hoping to get the rod and arm done this weekend. I feel like that will solve the clickyness (or just verify that I need a new shift cable which would suck..) but hoping this will cure it all. Then the CDV for the icing on the cake

      My Deyeme mount had to be tapped into place. The clearance was much tighter than stock (as we have seen many here explain), but putting the car on a rack, and with a box ended wrench and another wrench for leverage, the tech got the old mount out like butter.. Funny how you can do something so easily when you have the right tools.. It doesn't have that pop feel when you let off the gas (probably the mount bumping the bottom of the car), but the feedback is much more. Not intolerable. Maybe I should have went with the flex mount, but meh. I'm just happy it's going to stay in the right place. It does feel more like race car at this point
      Last edited by Dartanyion; 02-22-2019 at 12:20 AM.
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    5. #54
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      In the FSM instructions to replace the mount, it says nothing about having to undo the exhaust.
      -Case

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    6. #55
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      Quote Originally Posted by alpinegreenneon View Post
      In the FSM instructions to replace the mount, it says nothing about having to undo the exhaust.
      Yeah and if you have a 12 point ratcheting box wrench, then you are exactly right but per deyeme instructions which I'm not knocking them for, and using an inverted star socket, there's no way to get the socket on the bolts with the exhaust in the way. So no choice with that setup except to unbolt the exhaust from the catalytic converter..
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      Deyeme Short shift arm
      Deyeme ice blue shift rod
      Deyeme ice blue Firm Rear Trans Mount
      Kenda Kaiser KR-20s (Front)
      Metal blue valve stem caps
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    7. #56
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      Annnndddd! Phase 2 is completed! I installed the short shifter arm and rod tonight! Took me about an hour ish. It was actually super easy!.. well.. at least after I took the ECU off the battery holder.. if you are going to do this, don't worry about the battery box or taking the ECU+ plastic piece off. There are 3 bolts holding the ECU+plastic piece to the battery tray and if you just unbolt the ECU from the plastic piece instead, it's going to give you just what you need.

      After removing the nut from the shift arm, I just used an open end wrench underneath and pulled up and then down and the arm popped right off. For the rod, basically the same thing. Took me about 30 minutes to get the battery side and ECU off, 5 minutes to get the old shift rod and arm off, and then about 10 more minutes to get the deyeme rod and arm on and that's only because I had the arm in the wrong position initially and luckily I tested shifting before putting everything back together because the shifter was basically stuck in third in the cabin. After moving it where it needed to be, verifying shifting before snugging down the shift arm nut, reinstall of the ECU, and the battery took all of about 15 minutes. I have it in the shortest position (oem shift stalk) and wow what a difference!!! I still have some weird slop (has to be shift cable or a bushing) but no more missing shifts!! It's crisp! And I am enjoying the hell out of it. Next up will be the last stage, which is the CDV delete but that's going to be a week or so before embarking on that one.. sorry guys but didn't get any pics or video tonight either because it was just me.. and I needed the flashlight on my phone to see under the hood. I did it in my garage but I need to invest in one of those light headbands or something! I may end up moving it to the middle shift position but I'm going to just try it in the shortest for a week. Either way I am absolutely happy with it!! And I have yet to install my go fast sticker and hash marks but that will be another something in the next two weeks or so.
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    8. #57
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      That slop you're still getting I think is under the console. The CDV Delete will do for the clutch what the other stuff has done for the shifter, making it feel like it should have all along! When you buy brake fluid, it's better to get more, smaller, containers rather than one large one (unless you have a lot of vehicles you plan on doing brake work on soon) since brake fluid is hygroscopic and shouldn't be kept open for a long time. And for those thinking on the shift control rod and arm, do what @Dartanyion said about using an open end wrench or something to pry the rod off the ball, rather than trying to "pull" it straight off (usually the first instinct). There's a metal ring inside there designed to tighten as it separates, preventing it from coming apart. Our stainless steel version uses special locking pins instead.
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    9. #58
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      Quote Originally Posted by DeyemeRacing View Post
      That slop you're still getting I think is under the console. The CDV Delete will do for the clutch what the other stuff has done for the shifter, making it feel like it should have all along! When you buy brake fluid, it's better to get more, smaller, containers rather than one large one (unless you have a lot of vehicles you plan on doing brake work on soon) since brake fluid is hygroscopic and shouldn't be kept open for a long time. And for those thinking on the shift control rod and arm, do what @Dartanyion said about using an open end wrench or something to pry the rod off the ball, rather than trying to "pull" it straight off (usually the first instinct). There's a metal ring inside there designed to tighten as it separates, preventing it from coming apart. Our stainless steel version uses special locking pins instead.
      Yeah on the slop I'm thinking the same but I'm not sure where?? This slop I'm talking about started when I was trying out 0-60 times, and I ended up yanking it in between the 2nd and 4th gate on accident. At first I thought shift rod bushing but after I pulled it out to put the new one in, it looks perfectly fine.. No weirdness at all in the bushing. But it's slop"to the right" like here is the best way I can explain it..

      If you are in neutral, if you move the shifter to the left, it has that tension you can feel knowing it's moving other parts. When moving to the right there is a little slop there where there is not much tension at all and then you feel the tension as normal.. it hasn't caused any issues other than an annoyance of it being there. I made a video a while back where I pulled the accent piece and shift boot off to see if there was any slack in the shifter assembly in the cab or damage to it from me doing that but reviewing the video there was none to be found.
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      Chrome door handle covers

    10. #59
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      I finally did it..

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      Two things right off hand
      #1 I'm outta shape like hell and need to work out
      #2 this is all over one of the best mods I have installed.
      #3 I'll be adding more detail but it's hella easier than I thought and I have found a way to install it flawlessly without time consuming bleeding of the clutch, minimal mess and best of all I did it myself and needed no ones help. More to come soon.
      Last edited by Dartanyion; 04-14-2019 at 06:19 PM.
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      Deyeme Short shift arm
      Deyeme ice blue shift rod
      Deyeme ice blue Firm Rear Trans Mount
      Kenda Kaiser KR-20s (Front)
      Metal blue valve stem caps
      Chrome door handle covers

    11. #60
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      Sorry for the lateness on this wanted to give a little info on the installation.

      #1. Purchase a mighty vac or a cheap equivalent. I bought one for $25 off amazon and will post the link when I have a chance.

      #2. When you remove the CDV line, loosen the nuts on the left end but don't remove the line there yet. Keep the cap on the brake fluid resivour as well. The clip on the right side can be pulled just enough to take that end off. You will have to work it a little to get it out but since it still has the other end connected it will not leak very much. Put a rag on the right end, and then a rag near the left end or under it to catch the brake fluid and remove the cdv making sure to keep it lower so the fluid that does come out goes right into the rag. Once that's done, install the CDV delete line in reverse order.

      #3 Now unscrew the cap for the brake fluid.

      #4, instead of using a catch can and plastic bottle for the brake fluid to bleed the clutch, connect the mightyvac to the bleed nipple. Pull a suction on the line. Don't go crazy just about half the suction on the needle reading.

      #5. Push down the clip and pop out the clutch hose. I had a hard time getting it to pop out but found I had to push down on the clip and to the side to sort of cock it and allow the hose to pop out. Once you do this the mightyvac does all the work. You should see a little bit of air come through and then a slow movement of brake fluid. Once the ugly fluid clears out, push the line back in, pump the clutch a few times (make sure your not running low on brake fluid in the reservour) and then repeat the bleed process. This was just to try to make sure you have cleaner fluid in the slave cylinder. Once that is done, push the clutch hose back in and your done. Unhook the mightyvac, reinstall the wheel well and tire and your ready to tear up the town.

      As a side note, I bled my brakes first before doing the CDV delete to ensure I had clean fluid everywhere. I used right under a quart of brake fluid. Something I observed though is that my front brake fluid was dirty as hell coming out but the backs were only a little dirty at first and then cleared up so I don't think I drained ALL of it out but definitely the bad stuff and also used the mighty vac for that and pulling all the old fluid out of the reservior before starting anything and filling with new fluid. I have not had any problems. I just pumped the brakes a good 10 times before I started the car, then cranked and pumped another good 5 times till the pedal felt stiff and of course testing the brakes as best I could before moving the car. As far as the clutch, I pumped it a few times but it felt good even at the first pump of it.

      Any questions on this just let me know!

      Here's the action video!
      Last edited by Dartanyion; 04-17-2019 at 06:06 AM.
      Mods:
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      Deyeme Short shift arm
      Deyeme ice blue shift rod
      Deyeme ice blue Firm Rear Trans Mount
      Kenda Kaiser KR-20s (Front)
      Metal blue valve stem caps
      Chrome door handle covers

     

     
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