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    Review thread and thanks to Deyeme: short shift, rod, rear mount, and CDV Delete kit

    This is a discussion on Review thread and thanks to Deyeme: short shift, rod, rear mount, and CDV Delete kit within the Deyeme Racing forums, part of the Vendors category; Originally Posted by Dartanyion Yeah it is weird.. I ran all around the tiny Town closest to me and here is what I have found: ...

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    Thread: Review thread and thanks to Deyeme: short shift, rod, rear mount, and CDV Delete kit

    1. #21
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      Review thread and thanks to Deyeme: short shift, rod, rear mount, and CDV Delete kit

      Quote Originally Posted by Dartanyion View Post
      Yeah it is weird..

      I ran all around the tiny Town closest to me and here is what I have found:

      Advance Auto Parts - worthless.. no inverted torx sockets at all, only dot 3 fluid to be had except house brand dot4.. even the dot 3 was more generic brands.. also no one man brake bleeders.

      AutoZone - had inverted torx sockets (star sockets) but only one kit that went from E8 to E16. Didn't include E20. Also only had pintosin dot4, generic brand Dot4, and Brembo Dot4. Had a brake bleeder kit but the one was the tiny $8 job, and the other was $40!!(on their website they sell it for $30?)

      Just to try it, checked the Home Depot but they had zero inverted sockets so.. Looks like I might as well mosey down to the Harbor Freight a few towns away next week and order my DOT4 off of Amazon.
      You can make your own one man bleeder using an old water bottle, plastic tubing and a zip tie. Check out the video by chisfix. I did this in the summer when I redid all my brakes. It worked perfectly

      Edit. I just realized you were using it for the CDV delete Install. It may not work as well but check it out if there’s no affordable bleeders nearby
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      Quote Originally Posted by josh16 View Post
      You can make your own one man bleeder using an old water bottle, plastic tubing and a zip tie. Check out the video by chisfix. I did this in the summer when I redid all my brakes. It worked perfectly

      Edit. I just realized you were using it for the CDV delete Install. It may not work as well but check it out if there’s no affordable bleeders nearby
      Yeah. It's looking like this is going to be %100 amazon.. Reason being, I can order this stuff now and get it just as cheap (and more options) than even harbor freight. And I can actually get a warranty on the brake bleeder kit for like $1
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    3. #23
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      Quote Originally Posted by Dartanyion View Post
      Yeah. It's looking like this is going to be %100 amazon.. Reason being, I can order this stuff now and get it just as cheap (and more options) than even harbor freight. And I can actually get a warranty on the brake bleeder kit for like $1
      Got all my parts in for the jerb!!!

      Here's WTB
      *I would hold off on the pump until I test it out and use it for the brakes, etc. Just taking out of the box, putting my finger on the end and pumping it, it held pressure alright, but I don't know if this thing is going to last yet and I'm definitely using some teflon tape on the fittings and what not. Stay tuned for that. For the inverted star set, it looks to be good quality believe it or not. At least they feel more quality than a lot of tools I have used in the past but then, depends on if it breaks while you use it!

      HFS (R 2 in 1 Brake Bleeder & Vacuum Pump Test Tuner Tool Kit: $19.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
      EOHM 12Pcs E Torx Star Female Bit Socket Set 1/2"/3/8"/1/4" Drive E4 -E20: $10.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
      ATE 706202 Original TYP 200 Racing Quality DOT 4 Brake Fluid - 1 Liter: $13.42 (x2 cause I just wanted to make sure I had enough) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

      Name:  fluidsntools.jpg
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      ****ALSO!!!****

      About using the brake bleeder.. I know how to bleed the brakes with it but was curious if I could/should use it to bleed the clutch. I read in another part of the forum that you should use a power bleeder but from the reservoir? How does that work or am I mis-understanding?

      Here's the instruction gracefully ripped from one of @alpinegreenneon 's posts:

        Spoiler: Directions for power bleeding 
      Quote Originally Posted by alpinegreenneon View Post
      POWER BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

      1.Remove reservoir cap and connect bleeder cap to clutch/brake fluid reservoir.

      NOTE:
      Use Bleeder Cap/Modified reservoir cap adapter Snap-on/Bluepoint YA8925 or equivalent.

      2.Connect power bleeding machine to bleeder cap.

      NOTE: Use Service Filling Machine/Brake power bleeder or equivalent.

      3.Service filling machine should be pressurized between 2.0 and 2.5 bar (29 - 36 PSI).

      4.Raise vehicle on a suitable hoist.

      5. Remove the belly pan, if equipped.

      6.Remove the dust cover from the nipple (1) on the hydraulic slave cylinder union (4).

      Attachment 88785

      7.Connect a length of transparent tubing (1) to the bleeder nipple. Insert the open end of the transparent tube (1) into a clean container to ketch the fluid flow (4) during bleeding procedure.

      Attachment 88793

      8.Turn ON the power bleeding machine.

      NOTE: While bleeding the system, do not allow the clutch fluid reservoir to completely to run dry. If this happens, refill the clutch fluid reservoir, and repeat the procedure.

      9.Press downward on the retainer clip (2) holding the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder union while pulling outward on the hydraulic hose (3) to open the bleeder flow (4). This allows the line to pop out about 1/8 in (3 mm) which opens the bleeder. Any air in the system will escape at this time.

      10.Allow fluid to flow (4) out of bleed port until no air bubbles are visible in the transparent tube (1).

      11.Push the line (3) inward until the clip (2) snaps in place to stop the bleeder flow.

      12.If necessary, lower the vehicle.

      13.Slowly actuate the clutch pedal FIFTEEN up/down cycles.

      14.If necessary, hoist the vehicle.

      15.Repeat steps 9 through 11 to verify air is NOT trapped in the system.

      16.Turn OFF power bleeder machine.

      17.If necessary, lower the vehicle.

      18.Apply brakes. Start engine and verify clutch operation and pedal feel. If the clutch pedal feels fine and the transaxle can be easily shifted from neutral to any gear, the clutch is operating correctly. If pedal still feels spongy or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped in the system.

      19.If clutch function is normal, disconnect bleeder machine and install reservoir cap.

      20.If necessary, hoist the vehicle.

      21. Remove the transparent tube (1) from the nipple on the slave cylinder union and install the dust cover.

      22.Install the belly pan, if removed.

      23.Lower the vehicle.

      Link to Travis' instructions:
      Deyeme Racing- Chrysler PF1 Clutch Action Upgrade Kit Installation



      But if you put a vacuum pump on the reservoir, doesn't that SUCK fluid out? And if that is the case, then wouldn't you need the clean fluid in the catch bottle connected to the bleed nipple to be sucked into the system? Or is this specifically for just air bubble removal?

      The way I was thinking it is to empty the old fluid from the clutch reservoir, fill with new there, connect the brake bleeder/vacuum pump to the bleed nipple, pull a vacuum with it, press the clip and pop out the fluid hose, which will allow the pump to pump fluid out of the system. Do it for a short amount of time, then press the fluid hose back in place to seal it, then add fluid to the reservoir, pump the clutch once to release old fluid in the master cylinder, and continue the process until you know it's clean fluid throughout. Or is this just bad thinking? I may very well not be able to have help on this so any info is appreciated.

      Update - OK. So evidently a 'power bleeder' uses pressure (psi) to push new fluid through the system, whereas a vacuum brake bleeder pulls a suction (BAR) thereby pulling fluid out.. (into a bottle such as the one that came with my vacuum brake bleeder) So... It SOUNDS like it should work.. Anyone here have any thoughts on that?
      Last edited by Dartanyion; 02-08-2019 at 11:55 AM.
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    5. #24
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      Well here's an update... I tried to replace the rear mount today and when attempting to remove the catalytic converter nuts, the first one I tried to get off broke off the damn bolt that's welded into the cat... I don't have pb blaster so I'm afraid to try to get the other nut off since if that broke too not only would I have a giant exhaust leak but would also have to find a cat... And I don't have 600 available to me at the moment so.. maybe next week
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      Quote Originally Posted by Dartanyion View Post
      Well here's an update... I tried to replace the rear mount today and when attempting to remove the catalytic converter nuts, the first one I tried to get off broke off the damn bolt that's welded into the cat... I don't have pb blaster so I'm afraid to try to get the other nut off since if that broke too not only would I have a giant exhaust leak but would also have to find a cat... And I don't have 600 available to me at the moment so.. maybe next week
      The same thing happened to me when I did mine. The stud is pressed in. If you heat it up you can knock it out and replace it with a standard bolt and nut. I did that and had no leaks
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      Quote Originally Posted by josh16 View Post
      The same thing happened to me when I did mine. The stud is pressed in. If you heat it up you can knock it out and replace it with a standard bolt and nut. I did that and had no leaks
      Awesome man thanks! I will have to wait till next week but it's good to know it's pressed in and not welded on.

      Oh also left my aero shield off.. and evidently I don't know who or why but at some point a Dodge mechanic decided to remove all the access panels and didn't replace them so.. lots of good thats doing lol. I'll put it back on one I'm done with everything
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      Quote Originally Posted by Dartanyion View Post
      Awesome man thanks! I will have to wait till next week but it's good to know it's pressed in and not welded on.

      Oh also left my aero shield off.. and evidently I don't know who or why but at some point a Dodge mechanic decided to remove all the access panels and didn't replace them so.. lots of good thats doing lol. I'll put it back on one I'm done with everything
      Check out this thread. I posted how I fixed mine. If you have any other questions PM me and I’ll do my best to help
      Threaded stud from cat to flex pipe

      https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...0&share_type=t
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      Quote Originally Posted by Dartanyion View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by josh16 View Post
      The same thing happened to me when I did mine. The stud is pressed in. If you heat it up you can knock it out and replace it with a standard bolt and nut. I did that and had no leaks
      Awesome man thanks! I will have to wait till next week but it's good to know it's pressed in and not welded on.

      Oh also left my aero shield off.. and evidently I don't know who or why but at some point a Dodge mechanic decided to remove all the access panels and didn't replace them so.. lots of good thats doing lol. I'll put it back on one I'm done with everything
      That may not be entirely true. I was driving down the 1 one morning heading to work following another white dart where I saw the oil or filter door/panel fly off for almost no reason. I thought about signaling her and telling her about it but decided to let it go...

      I removed my doors a while back and when I did my rear mount also decided to just leave the entire shield off, because well I really don't want to have to remove it again for the next part to replace and more airflow I guess.

      So far, no damage or water issues and it's been a few months though I will say if I threw my injen intake back in I might actually get cold air this time. Water will be a problem of course...
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      Quote Originally Posted by Parabolaralus View Post
      That may not be entirely true. I was driving down the 1 one morning heading to work following another white dart where I saw the oil or filter door/panel fly off for almost no reason. I thought about signaling her and telling her about it but decided to let it go...

      I removed my doors a while back and when I did my rear mount also decided to just leave the entire shield off, because well I really don't want to have to remove it again for the next part to replace and more airflow I guess.

      So far, no damage or water issues and it's been a few months though I will say if I threw my injen intake back in I might actually get cold air this time. Water will be a problem of course...
      Good point.. but with the access panels off, is it really making any differences saying on? Does anyone know if Mopar sells individual hatch openings for it? Probably not I would guess but worth a chance. I never saw them in schematic before
      Last edited by Dartanyion; 02-11-2019 at 07:39 AM.
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    11. #30
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      I don't usually read the threads on doing mods. But I stumbled upon this one. All I can say is that you guys have alot of guts being able to dive into this stuff . I don't have the knowledge and/or ability. But even if I did, I don't think I'd have the courage !! My hat's off to you!!!
      ​Take Me To Your Leader

     

     
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