Review thread and thanks to Deyeme: short shift, rod, rear mount, and CDV Delete kit - Page 2
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    Review thread and thanks to Deyeme: short shift, rod, rear mount, and CDV Delete kit

    This is a discussion on Review thread and thanks to Deyeme: short shift, rod, rear mount, and CDV Delete kit within the Deyeme Racing forums, part of the Vendors category; https://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/dey...tml#post360123...

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    Thread: Review thread and thanks to Deyeme: short shift, rod, rear mount, and CDV Delete kit

    1. #11
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      Is the rear motor mount supposed to be off-center like that?

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      Quote Originally Posted by jsblanch View Post
      Is the rear motor mount supposed to be off-center like that?
      It's just an optical illusion because the poly blend doesn't overlap as much on the right side and the picture was taken at an angle. It is centered properly as far as I can tell anyway lol.
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    5. #14
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      Yea, the mount really isn't off-center. It's probably the way the blue poly absorbed the camera flash, or a bit of black rubber over the aluminum edge. That color doesn't really look quite that dark in person. The mounts we make are made from brand new parts, so the thru-bolt portion is always in the correct position. The molds are also made using a brand new mount. In the case of the rear mount, we built up over thru-bolt insert with clay for making the "master" to make the mold from.
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      Quote Originally Posted by DeyemeRacing View Post
      Yea, the mount really isn't off-center. It's probably the way the blue poly absorbed the camera flash, or a bit of black rubber over the aluminum edge. That color doesn't really look quite that dark in person. The mounts we make are made from brand new parts, so the thru-bolt portion is always in the correct position. The molds are also made using a brand new mount. In the case of the rear mount, we built up over thru-bolt insert with clay for making the "master" to make the mold from.
      I can attest it's not that dark in person. It's still darker than say the ice blue hoses on the shift rod and CDV delete, but yeah. My phone camera is crap :P


      **BTW** hoping to put at least everything but the CDV on by this coming Saturday. I'll let you all know.

      Also another big question I need answered before I start this journey..

      For the brake fluid, how much should I purchase for this? I am going to bleed the brakes as well. I want this to be clear of any old fluid. 24oz? a quart? a gallon? Lol. I know a gallon would be pretty overkill, but just want to know from someone who has done the cdv and bled the brake system as well (and removed the old fluid from the reservoirs as well) how much fluid they used for it.
      Last edited by Dartanyion; 01-30-2019 at 11:38 AM.
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      Quote Originally Posted by Dartanyion View Post
      I can attest it's not that dark in person. It's still darker than say the ice blue hoses on the shift rod and CDV delete, but yeah. My phone camera is crap :P


      **BTW** hoping to put at least everything but the CDV on by this coming Saturday. I'll let you all know.

      Also another big question I need answered before I start this journey..

      For the brake fluid, how much should I purchase for this? I am going to bleed the brakes as well. I want this to be clear of any old fluid. 24oz? a quart? a gallon? Lol. I know a gallon would be pretty overkill, but just want to know from someone who has done the cdv and bled the brake system as well (and removed the old fluid from the reservoirs as well) how much fluid they used for it.
      Quart should get it done.

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      I know Mom usually says to watch the unit price and buy in bulk. That's great for a jar of olives, but not so much for brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means once it's been opened, it has a pretty brief shelf life. They even make the reservoirs transparent now so you don't have to open them to check the level. So, it's better to buy more small containers of brake fluid than one big container.
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      Quote Originally Posted by DeyemeRacing View Post
      I know Mom usually says to watch the unit price and buy in bulk. That's great for a jar of olives, but not so much for brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means once it's been opened, it has a pretty brief shelf life. They even make the reservoirs transparent now so you don't have to open them to check the level. So, it's better to buy more small containers of brake fluid than one big container.
      That does make sense. I have been reading about the differences between the DOT 3,4, and 5.1. I was initially wanting to go to 5.1 for the higher boil temps but I have also been noting in random car threads (not here) that they went to DOT 5.1 and all of a sudden their seals started leaking. Not sure if the 5.1 fluid is just thinner and thus allowing it to leak where it would not usually.. And yes. I know to never ever ever try to go to DOT5. But I also have wondered about a few people here who, after replacing their clutch master, their slave cylinder took a dump very shortly or right afterward. Even though it's impossible to know, I wonder if they were trying to go to DOT 5.1 and that's what did it. In reality it's not supposed to harm anything. After reading hundreds of posts around the web, 5.1 is compatible with 3 and 4. You could mix them all together if you wanted sans Dot 5, just that your boil temp would be closer to 3 in the end instead of what it's supposed to be.

      But after all that reading I just kinda realized I should just stay with DOT 4. And in particular, I am trying to figure out if I should get Castrol DOT 4 (that @alpinegreenneon suggested), ATE TYP 200 Dot 4 (That at least a few members here run), or Brembo DOT4..

      The Castrol DOT 4 is $14.00 /LTR and can be ordered through Walmart or Amazon and probably found in a local parts house.
      ATE can't be purchased locally $13.26/LTR on Amazon (no smaller bottles)
      Brembo DOT 4 is $11.99/ .5LTR at a local Autozone

      Soooo.. Yeah. I have to figure this out lol. I'm going to look for the Castrol, and TBH I have no idea of the Brembo one is just market fluff but seems to have good reviews everywhere. ATE I know some members here run it and it's a great price (best price really out of the 3). There are also LV (Low Viscosity) versions of these but I don't know if that would be good in the clutch system. I may sound pretty dramatic about all this, but I just want to make sure I don't screw up the system. Brake system? Meh it's fine. Clutch system? That's where I get worried.
      Last edited by Dartanyion; 01-31-2019 at 04:11 PM.
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    10. #19
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      With the Castrol DOT4, I notice less of a color change compared to previous fluids I used. It tends to stay clearer, not so brown. The color changes because of rust from the steel brake lines and calipers reacting with the water that brake fluid absorbs. The Castrol is supposed to be low moisture absorption so less water. If you replace what's in the reservoir every couple years, you should be safe. Eventually most of the original DOT3 gets to be DOT4. I have rebuilt calipers and am amazed how rusty the fluid is in them. I doubt that could be avoided just because of the nature of brake fluid being so hydroscopic.
      I buy the quart size since I have 5 vehicles. If you close the cap tight, I don't see what difference it makes compared to what happens in the master cylinder.
      I used to be able to find the Castrol easily, but now it seems no one near me has it so I get it online.
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    11. #20
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      Quote Originally Posted by alpinegreenneon View Post
      With the Castrol DOT4, I notice less of a color change compared to previous fluids I used. It tends to stay clearer, not so brown. The color changes because of rust from the steel brake lines and calipers reacting with the water that brake fluid absorbs. The Castrol is supposed to be low moisture absorption so less water. If you replace what's in the reservoir every couple years, you should be safe. Eventually most of the original DOT3 gets to be DOT4. I have rebuilt calipers and am amazed how rusty the fluid is in them. I doubt that could be avoided just because of the nature of brake fluid being so hydroscopic.
      I buy the quart size since I have 5 vehicles. If you close the cap tight, I don't see what difference it makes compared to what happens in the master cylinder.
      I used to be able to find the Castrol easily, but now it seems no one near me has it so I get it online.
      Yeah it is weird..

      I ran all around the tiny Town closest to me and here is what I have found:

      Advance Auto Parts - worthless.. no inverted torx sockets at all, only dot 3 fluid to be had except house brand dot4.. even the dot 3 was more generic brands.. also no one man brake bleeders.

      AutoZone - had inverted torx sockets (star sockets) but only one kit that went from E8 to E16. Didn't include E20. Also only had pintosin dot4, generic brand Dot4, and Brembo Dot4. Had a brake bleeder kit but the one was the tiny $8 job, and the other was $40!!(on their website they sell it for $30?)

      Just to try it, checked the Home Depot but they had zero inverted sockets so.. Looks like I might as well mosey down to the Harbor Freight a few towns away next week and order my DOT4 off of Amazon.
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      Deyeme ice blue Firm Rear Trans Mount
      Kenda Kaiser KR-20s (Front)
      Metal blue valve stem caps
      Chrome door handle covers

     

     
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