new item: PF1MTSLNKA: Manual Trans Shift Control Arm - shorter shift throw made easy - Page 6
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    new item: PF1MTSLNKA: Manual Trans Shift Control Arm - shorter shift throw made easy

    This is a discussion on new item: PF1MTSLNKA: Manual Trans Shift Control Arm - shorter shift throw made easy within the Deyeme Racing forums, part of the Vendors category; Originally Posted by Dartanyion Did you ever get it installed? Also... ***DRUM ROLL*** I just took the plunge and ordered the Rear Trans Mount, CDV ...

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    Thread: new item: PF1MTSLNKA: Manual Trans Shift Control Arm - shorter shift throw made easy

    1. #51
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      Quote Originally Posted by Dartanyion View Post
      Did you ever get it installed?

      Also... ***DRUM ROLL***

      I just took the plunge and ordered the Rear Trans Mount, CDV Delete kit, the DMR Control Rod, AND the Short Shifter Arm. I'm so excited!!! Like.. This is big for me. I have worked on cars for years and years, but NOTHING I have ever done was anything to improve anything on a car except for the fact that it was broke.. Well I know that pretty much all of these parts are to fix what was broke from the factory on the Dart. lol. But still this is the first performance mods I have ever installed and I am soo soo psyched!

      For the CDV, does anyone have a preference on a good brake fluid to use? Preferably something that wont fry easy in the brake system to give the clutch system more longetivity, but also isn't $75 a bottle? (being dramatic but dodge is so damn high on anything).
      Nice! You will love it. It will be like driving a different car. Just use any DOT4 fluid and you'll be fine.
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    2. #52
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      Quote Originally Posted by alpinegreenneon View Post
      I use a MityVac to suck out (as much as possible) the old fluid in the master cylinder and replace it with this.
      Which MityVac do you have? I can't splurge on it but it would be super nice to be able to do it myself because it's a little hard to rely on anyone else to be there to help me (and help me the correct way)..

      I found this one on Amazon but wasn't sure if it was 'good enough' for the job or not. I could definitely find it handy for the future.
      https://www.amazon.com/MV8000-Automo...ustomerReviews
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    3. #53
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      That MityVac will work just fine. As long as it has the plastic container to hold the fluid you remove. You still need to be careful.
      A turkey baster will also work but you might end up spilling brake fluid on paint possibly causing damage.
      -Case

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    5. #54
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      Quote Originally Posted by alpinegreenneon View Post
      That MityVac will work just fine. As long as it has the plastic container to hold the fluid you remove. You still need to be careful.
      A turkey baster will also work but you might end up spilling brake fluid on paint possibly causing damage.
      I'm not really worried about the turkey baster method though I believe that's a good one as well. I just didn't want to buy a worthless product. They have a good handfull of kits on Amazon for as low as $19 and even ones with bad reviews as high as $120 but it seems you have about a 1/3rd chance of these kits working right out of the box by the way the reviews are.. Either it works great, works about two times and then breaks, or doesn't work at all out of the box. I have at least 3 rolls of plumbers tape so rolling what needs to be in teflon tape is not even an issue. It's the stuff like orings that disentigrate when the fluid hits it (hmm.. sounds familiar :P ) or things internally with the pumps are just broken new in box.
      Last edited by Dartanyion; 01-18-2019 at 01:42 PM.
      Mods:
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      Deyeme ice blue shift rod
      Deyeme ice blue Firm Rear Trans Mount
      Kenda Kaiser KR-20s (Front)
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    6. #55
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      Maybe look for a used older version on eBay? I have one that's at least 40 years old.
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      -Case

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    7. #56
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      Quote Originally Posted by alpinegreenneon View Post
      Maybe look for a used older version on eBay? I have one that's at least 40 years old.
      You know that might just be the ticket because I came across a lot of reviews on Amazon staying they replaced their 20+ year old one with a similar new model and it just basically fell apart as soon as they tried to use the new one. I guess the old adage ' they don't make em like they used to' definitely applies here unless your willing to drop $150+ on it..
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    8. #57
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      is 04-03-2019: Installed Genuine
      Mopar Pedal Kit Manual Part
      Number: 82214197
       

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      Finally got the shift control arm and rod completely installed today. Word to the wise, if you car is stored outside, do not even attempt if weather is hovering around freezing. Control rod will not want to give up.

      If I am being honest, this was one of the most frustrating mods I made to my Dart GT. It has nothing to do with the Deyeme product(s) (which I think are great), but more towards the confined spaced to work in. I have a GT and the only item I removed, while performing this installation, was the neutral gate. Did not remove any other items (maybe that is why I had more trouble).

      I recommend using PB Blaster and an 11mm open end wrench to work the old rod off. Mine did not want to let go and it was very frustrating. After a few days working on it and muscling it, they just sort of popped off. It's as if someone was looking down at me and said, "eh, I've had enough torturing him with this, I am just going to let these fall off". I believe releasing the connection on the rod furthest from the front of the vehicle (not on the control arm) is tough to get just right. You have to get the wrench in at just the right angle and it almost popped off a little bit at a time. I actually swung the arm the opposite way so I did not have the shaft pointing away from we. This is when I was finally able to make some real progress.


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      The control arm is press fit on, so just take care getting it out. You will need a decent length extension, or a couple of regular extensions, to get to the nut on the stud. It is on there pretty good. I once again used PB Blaster and let it soak for a bit. I used a thin scrapper I have with a screwdriver handle to wedge under it and break the press fit. Once that was done, I just did some light, careful tapping with a tack hammer. No problem. I cleaned everything up, put a deep socket on my extension that would go around the stud, and then tapped on the new control with a rubber mallet (in the same position to old arm was attached at). Once it was started, I used some blue threadlocker and tightened it up, making sure everything was nice and flush.



      The new control rod was a quick install. I was initially afraid of dropping the clip needed to secure each end, but took the time to find a good position to work in and it only took me about 5 minutes total. I was very cognizant of the fact that I was holding a small clip while doing this. Did not and try to take a shortcut or do something that I was unsure if I could fit my hand into a position, or that the clip was not 100% secure in my grasp.

      Anyway, completely installed and have in the shortest throw position. It is like having a new gear box. The tension in neutral is still good going left or right. It does seem that second gear takes a bit more force to get into than before. not sure if that is just me, or the loss of a few inches of leverage on the arm makes it a bit tougher in the second gear position. It is nothing I'm concerned or unhappy with, just my observation.

      I am very happy with this and once again would recommend to anyone with a manual. Now I just got to get used to letting of the clutch a bit sooner with these quicker gear shifts. Thank you for everyone who assisted me with (especially @Dartanyion who answered a few specific questions for me) and Deyeme for supporting the Dart platform with quality products.

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      Last edited by Mass_Paul; 03-22-2019 at 10:56 AM. Reason: Added OEM Control Rod Wrench Removal Pictures
      DeyemeRacing and Dartanyion like this.
      Mass_Paul
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    9. #58
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      Dat red rod tho. Looks clean man! I need to take a picture of mine when I get a chance. I have also noticed a little more tension getting into 2nd which is weird. 1st and 2nd are like that. Everything after is pretty smooth. Not sure if it's a linkage issue within the cab or just the trans, but just like you it's not a big.
      Last edited by Dartanyion; 03-19-2019 at 11:50 PM.
      Mods:
      NGK LZTR4A-11 5306 copper spark plugs gapped to .048
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      Deyeme ice blue shift rod
      Deyeme ice blue Firm Rear Trans Mount
      Kenda Kaiser KR-20s (Front)
      Metal blue valve stem caps
      Chrome door handle covers

     

     
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