Hey All, I wanted to create an organized thread where we can post the results of our mods or even baselines in a easy to read data log. This should be helpful to compare the different dynos, mods, and can save us time and money at the dyno. I'm also going to do a member dyno ranking, this should be fun! For now I'll do largest hp/tq for ranking although I can see that may change since tq seems to be as important or more than hp especially in the 1.4 turbo. I'll put you in the list if your sheet is posted.
I did 9 pulls in 2 hours @ $120/hr. I hired my buddy Bisi at Bisimoto along with the help of our member Torkme (John) to sort out ESC and boost/vacuum location. Huge thanks to Torkme, always supportive!
You will need to pull fuse 23 otherwise you won't get past 3000 rpms...lol.
This is the spot we used for both vacuum and boost access.
Peak torque & horsepower
Max torque & horsepower gains
Torque & AFR
Boost & Vacuum
I've seen a few other members post dyno results, please take a moment to post them in this thread also.
i dont see that as being correct either. how do you get 160hp stock and 184 ft lbs stock
but your dyno to te wheels says 158 and 187? your dyno is way off.this is why i never listen to dyno. 1/4 mile is best dyno. go run a 1/4 mile a few times and tell me your times because dyno and paper dont prove anything to me.
i talked to Roadrace last night and asked if they had Dyno'd both the 1.4 and 2.0 stock and with what transmissions.
the 1.4 dynos at 145hp and 158 ft lbs.
and the 2.0 dynos at 145hp as well. but the trq was different. Auto was between 125 to 135 HP to the wheels.
unfortunately they have not dyno'd the 2.4 yet and i will ask them for a duno sheet if possible or at least a link to them.
i ALSO called the guys who did this supposed 158h dyno and asked how they got those numbers. they said when you put a higher load onto a boosted engine it produces more power then what is should. so they didnt dyno it the right way. they put a larger load onto the engine and if you have problems with what im saying you call RRM and talk to them. i trust RRM before some random dyno shop. RoadRace has been in business for over a decade and i would believe them before anyone else about these cars.
i talked to Roadrace last night and asked if they had Dyno'd both the 1.4 and 2.0 stock and with what transmissions. the 1.4 dynos at 145hp and 158 ft lbs. and the 2.0 dynos at 145hp as well. but the trq was different. Auto was between 125 to 135 HP to the wheels. unfortunately they have not dyno'd the 2.4 yet and i will ask them for a duno sheet if possible or at least a link to them. i ALSO called the guys who did this supposed 158h dyno and asked how they got those numbers. they said when you put a higher load onto a boosted engine it produces more power then what is should. so they didnt dyno it the right way. they put a larger load onto the engine and if you have problems with what im saying you call RRM and talk to them. i trust RRM before some random dyno shop. RoadRace has been in business for over a decade and i would believe them before anyone else about these cars.
Believe who you want, but it would be better if Road Race put those dynos up for us to see. So far they haven't provided much of anything to gain this trust "before anyone else about these cars". I could by a $800 piggy back from Road Race, but I will get no dynos to show what it does to my car, and if there is a problem with my engine they encourage unplugging it and tricking (outsmarting warranty issues) Dodge into paying for the repairs. That's bad form.
hey when you play with mods and what not its not the companies fault that the ecu dont take or you cross something. if your SOOOOO worried about the warrenty why you even trying to mod your car? honestly you ppl are so hard to please. first you want power but you dont want to sacrifice your MPG then you want them to garuntee that you dont blow your engine with the mods. you mod you risk your own engine. simple as that. you know there was a saying out long ago. "if you want to play, you got to pay." _stephen king_
If anyone is worried about their warranty (there's a ridiculous amount of dumb ass threads on warranty voiding mods already) then they have no business modding their car until the warranty runs out. It's as simple as that. I'm not worried about my warranty because in the event that something DOES malfunction on my car and it is NOT caused by a mod, and they refuse to honor the warranty, I'll take it over their heads. I have plenty of experience dealing with claims, and I know how to climb the ladder to the top of the food chain and make the shit roll back down hill.
Now if one of my mods DOES cause a malfunction, I'm completely fine with footing the repair bill, but I highly doubt any of my present mods will ever do that.
Now if one of my mods DOES cause a malfunction, I'm completely fine with footing the repair bill, but I highly doubt any of my present mods will ever do that.
Yep, and people need to make that informed decision when modding. And to do that they need all the information. I'm not going to jump out an airplane without a tested and verified parachute, I need to see the inspection tag.
And for those ok with RRM's advice to outsmart warranty issues:
I am pretty sure that RRM's ECU warranty does not cover damage caused from user modification. So, if I open up their box and modify it, they won't want to cover the expense of a new unit if I melt the old one. Professionally, how is it ok for RRM to seemingly pass on that same kind of responsibility to Dodge if their box causes damage?
Edit- I would ask these question to RRM, but they have a habit of deleting post on their threads about the ECU.
You guys realize that Chrysler corporate reads the forums as well, right? The more you bring up PCM swapping, the greater the chances they will be looking out for that in warranty cases.
I live (according to my gps) 151 ft above sea level... which is perfect for any car, should I excpect 140-150whp from 2.0 instead of 112 whp from injen and K&N dyno tests?
if you have manual you will dyno the same HP wise as a 1.4 torque your gonna be lower of course. your car is no where near 112hp to the wheels. its impossible. i had a CVT lancer DE with a 152 hp 2.0 and the dyno for my car was 125 to the wheels. how would you dyno less then a crappy CVT with a real transmission?
If anyone is worried about their warranty (there's a ridiculous amount of dumb ass threads on warranty voiding mods already) then they have no business modding their car until the warranty runs out. It's as simple as that. I'm not worried about my warranty because in the event that something DOES malfunction on my car and it is NOT caused by a mod, and they refuse to honor the warranty, I'll take it over their heads. I have plenty of experience dealing with claims, and I know how to climb the ladder to the top of the food chain and make the shit roll back down hill.
Now if one of my mods DOES cause a malfunction, I'm completely fine with footing the repair bill, but I highly doubt any of my present mods will ever do that.
are you driving an arbarth? no. then you have 160. i called rrm to ask about dyno numbers for all three engines. the 1.4 is 145hp and 158ft lbs the 2.0 is 145hp and the 2.4 was not dyno'd yet because they dont have one to dyno. but id say ill be about 20hp more then a 1.4 and 2.0.
I don't know why anyone's trying to make there stock version of the dart the best lol as in who has the best combo stock and has more power.....It's not what the car comes with its what you can get out of it....like how about I put it like this...say someone talks so much shit about how the 1.4 is slow and you drive the 2.4, but then one day you pull up to one and you get dusted. Then what ?
I have always found it hard to belive dynos too easy to fake......like I been running torque pro app 24 7 here's some read outs of whp
I'm all over the place lol do I belive it ? Do I belive dynos ? Lol and yes my weight and all is set... I went to the dump to get 1651kg
Some runs I was slowly going 2800rpm up to 60 then flooring it so I could get a read in different situations so the runs I was doing was just for whp not 1/4 or 1/8 mile nour 0 to 60......95 sec car 0 to 60 I'd cry lol
I honestly think the PCM flashes are adding power and/ or the engine power increases after 10,000 miles. I have been driving the same Dart since February, but the power is different; it's stronger and smoother.
anyways. the under rating isnt what your experiencing. from what the dealer told me. not sure if this is true because he was kinda like a douche. but. he said all 3 engines are ECU limited and gain noticeable HP boost after 6000 miles and somewhere after 10-15000 miles. he sad in comparison that the 1.4 feels sluggish when you first get them and after 6000 miles it becomes more powerful. he said they programmed the ECU/PCM to do this to make sure the engines brake in properly. is it tue? idk. because too many ppl around here dont drive the dart around like an enthusiast. and too many of you guys have modded to know if its true. i replaced the airbox with a mushroom cone. aside from that id like to know if its true.
@TorkMe ok guys here's my dyno sheet it's a before and after torks tune. Both dynos had my mpx and sri but the last one had torks tune and the gains are amazing. The sheet is comparing stock to torks tune. I've able to spin my tires a few times in second gear
Wow, amazing numbers. You still need some additional drive time on the tune to help smooth that curve but not bad! In a few weeks the power curve will calm down when it learns where all the power limiters are set at but still fantastic results! There could also be some clutch slip when loaded on the dyno like that and doing a 4th gear pull, so keep a close eye on those 4th gear pulls!
Now the real question... how does it feel when you are driving it on the road?
Wow, amazing numbers. You still need some additional drive time on the tune to help smooth that curve but not bad! In a few weeks the power curve will calm down when it learns where all the power limiters are set at. Fantastic results! There could also be some clutch slip when loaded on the dyno like that and doing a 4th gear pull.
Now the real question... how does it feel when you are driving it on the road?
dude im not going to lie just like i said on the phone i think it was friday night. but it is so much better then stock so much smother, no surges, no hard gear shifting, and no throttle lag off the line so now i can pull out into traffic with no hesitations!!!!!!!! its just amazing. even my mom who sometimes drives my car told me that it should have been like this from the factory and she said she wishes her durango handle and drove like me car did!!! and now i can pin my friends to their seats when i wot my car !!!!! just awesome!!!
haha awesome!!!!! no wonder i was able to spin my tires!!!! i think i could that little over powered fiat a run for it money lol and i was only expcting like 190 whp and the most i was shocked when i saw the chart and i hooked a boost gauge to the car and did another pull on the dyno and i pegged my friends boost gauge!!!!!
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