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Recommend a sound system!

10K views 32 replies 13 participants last post by  Chris 
#1 ·
Can anyone with audio knowledge recommend an aftermarket setup? I honestly feel that if I don't ask a pro I will make a mistake trying to put together a system.

I'd like to play rock music primarily and I'd be content with two 10inch subs. Anyone up for the challenge of putting a package together and listing it here? I'd probably be in the 800 bucks range after tax etc. Any help is appreciated!
 
#3 ·
I wonder how the factory 9 speaker system stacks up to user add-ons. I had a Dakota with a premium sound package. Friend had a Nissan truck that had a custom install. I don't have the type of hearing that other do that can hear small differences, but he always said mine sounded better. I remember mine came with a cassette to play that showed how good the sound was, so maybe they went all out with that system.
 
#5 · (Edited)
The factory sub is a "Free Air" or Infinite baffle 8" sub. This DOES matter, not all subs are designed to work without a box, and the ones that are, are not designed to operate near the RMS or Peak power ratings listed. I don't know whats size is in the doors but four total in the doors, on the rear deck lid it looks like two 3.5" with a 8" sub in the middle, and I believe they through tow tweeters up in the A-Pillars, for a total of 9 speakers. If I had to guess, it's 6.5" in the doors. I'll modifiy this post later with Infinite baffle sub alternatives and amps to match them.

Here is a link to crutchfield's selection of 8" "Free Air" subs

http://www.crutchfield.com/g_520/Component-Subwoofers.html?tp=111&nvpair=FFSize|[rank6]8%22&nvpair=AG_General_Features|FFFree_Air

I like crutchfied because they have the manual listed for each one, and you can read exactly how it is supposed to be hooked up with power recommendations and what not.

I'll go ahead and throw out that I work at Best Buy in the Mobile Installation Bay, this is my personal opinion and what I've been looking at installing in my dart when I get one.

One setup I would recommend is the 10C88 Kicker Comp Sub, Kicker 11DX250.1 AMP, and Kicker ZCK84 wire kit. (you can use the PK8, however I hate the fuse holder it comes with and would swap it out with a better one). Reasoning at end.

For the Install you'd just tap-in to the rear speakers and run the wires to the amp with the power and ground kit, instal the amp and sub, set the amp to high inputs and signal sensing, tune the gain, and she's ready for some noise.
You can use any 8" sub that supports an infinite baffle setup, just make sure you don't push her too hard our you'll be lucky to make it through a song without blowing the sub.

The reasoning behind it:
Let me start with the amp. This amp has a lot of really cool features that make this install easier. The Amp supports signal sensing and high level inputs. This means that if you tap into the rear speaker connections, you can run those wires straight to the amp, and the amp will be able to turn on, and amplify that sound to the sub. You do not need a line output converter, and a place to put the box that's around 1"x3"x2". This amp is also able to be mounted upside down and dissipate heat build up (not all amps can do this). Second is that it puts out around 140 watts of power @ 4 Ohms; we will circle back to this in a minute.
Now the sub, this is the part that requires some reading. It says that the speaker supports 50-100 watts RMS. If you read through the manual you can see that in does indeed support an infinite baffle setup, and a good starting point for power is going to be 55 since that's what the ported power is rated up to. The reason that I choose the 8 Ohm sub is because 8 is greater that 4. If at 2 Ohms the amplifier is putting out 250 watts of power, and at 4 ohms its putting out 140 watts of power, at around 8 ohms it's going to be putting right around 70-80 watts of power (and the amp is not struggling to produce this). The more resistance the lighter the load on the amp.
Now because this is all being installed in the deck lid, you really gotta watch that infinite baffle setup. In a normal sealed sub box the speaker creates a vacuum in the box; when the speaker pushes out, the vacuum pulls the cone back in. When you don't have that vacuum and you put the same amount of power to the sub it can't retract and you can easily blow the sub below its RMS power.
If your piecing together a system and want to make sure it works I would ask and installer before you purchase your items, it can save you tons of money.
 
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#6 · (Edited)
Ugh, Can't post URL's and my post got deleted. *Way to break the rules already dummy*
SO as I was saying...
The sub should be 8" Free air or Infinite Baffle Sub. The other two speakers that plug into the rear deck appear to be 3.5"
You can find the subs on crutchfield .com by searching Car Audio -> Car Subwoofers -> Component subwoofers -> 8" -> Free Air.
It needs to be free air to work in the trunk lid without a box
I like that you can read the instruction manual on the site to better see what you need and what the object is capable of. If you want I could go into the whole matching subs, amp, and accys but don't want to presume that you don't know what your looking for.
 
#16 ·
Here is a little FYI about the regular stock sound system in the Dart. 6 speakers, one in each door, and one in each side of the top of the dash. The 8.4" touchscreen also has a simple equalizer for bass, mid-range, and treble. I had the bass all the way up while listening to a little Beastie Boys, and was very impressed. It sounded great. No rattle sound or anything unpleasant. My conclusion is that there really is no reason to change the speakers but maybe add a sub and amp along with that sound deeding material.
 
#22 ·
I don't get it. I have a 16 year old son who is telling me I need to get sub woofers and this and that...I said, "why?? this sound system it has is perfectly fine for me...I don't NEED anything for my 7 minute commute to work...or my commute to and from school in Boise...I'm usually talking on the phone via my uconnect (which freekin ROCKS btw!!) and I don't go cruising nor do I feel the need to..." he just looked me and in my mind I'm thinking, *SMH* all you want you little shit, this is MY car and YOU'RE not touching it!!!*

It's a 'guy thing' isn't it? :crazy:
 
#26 ·
Ah, yes, the "I want my car to vibrate apart right here in the street because I want to only hear the bass and eventually lose my hearing" fools. I hate these people too. I usually blare some "I love my country and could kick your ass because I'm a real badass" music around those people. As for your 16 year old, tell him he isn't touching YOUR car because it is Yours. When he has a job/career and pays for a car himself, he can do whatever he wants to it. But till then, NO.
 
#27 ·
He's got his own truck to mess around with and put sub woofers and whatever else he wants on it. He KNOWS better...but the coolest thing is, he loves it when I make it growl...and gets a kick out of telling his friends that his mom has a badass car with a turbo...hehe
 
#29 ·
Well, the last thing an engineer at Dodge (or any car company) was thinking is... "Gee, I wonder if the person owning this would like to put a few subwoofers in this trunk, how can I make sure it can withstand that...." Why most cars don't have as much rattle today is the car manufacturing companies realizing that consumers are looking for a quiet ride, and some even advertise this, they are installing the sound deadening material for you. For the older cars, If you use the right aftermarket sound dampening materials like dynamat or stinger, and some structural modifications as needed, you can make sure all you hear is the bass, and not the license plate slamming against the trunk lid begging for mercy. The teenagers however see this as added costs they either cannot afford to do properly, or skip entirely.
 
#33 ·
Does anyone here use Spotify? I want to know if the Dart will let me skip a song from the steering wheel controls while I'm using it. On my wife's chevy cruze, the song can play but the steering wheel controls don't work unless you're playing songs from the itunes library. I want to see if the Uconnect system is different. This issue could very well be just from iOS, I'm just not sure.
 
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