How to Replace Rear Rotors and Pads on a Dodge Dart
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    How to Replace Rear Rotors and Pads on a Dodge Dart

    This is a discussion on How to Replace Rear Rotors and Pads on a Dodge Dart within the Dodge Dart Brakes and Brake Kits forums, part of the Dodge Dart Garage - The Mopar Zone category; Hello all! As I told you before, I needed some time to get all the tools needed and time to do this but here is ...

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    Thread: How to Replace Rear Rotors and Pads on a Dodge Dart

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      How to Replace Rear Rotors and Pads on a Dodge Dart

      Hello all!

      As I told you before, I needed some time to get all the tools needed and time to do this but here is a write-up and how-to for changing your rear brake rotors and pads on your Dodge Dart!

      If you havent seen my other how-to for the front brake rotors and pads here's link! Please read through this how-to first as there are many similarities that will be shown! How to replace front brake rotors and pads on a Dodge Dart

      First lets start off with all the tools and things you will need to accomplish this project quickly and correctly!

      WHAT YOU WILL NEED:

      - (1) Rear brake Rotor and Pad kit for each side (Drivers and Passengers)

      - 14MM & 19MM shallow Socket

      - 14MM Wrench

      - (For the caliper bracket bolts) either a T-50 INTERNAL torx socket or a 8MM allen socket

      - Car jack

      - Brake Cube (will show and explain later)

      - Breaker Bar

      - 3/16" or 5MM allen key

      - Hammer (may or may not need)

      - Torque wrench capable of both 32ft-lbs and 48ft-lbs

      Before you start this procedure a quick note! For my manual drivers out there: Make sure to leave the car in gear when doing this so it doesn't roll away as you will need the e-brake to be released to do this!

      Auto drivers: Just make sure you e-brake is not set and you should be good!

      Here is a quick "Before" picture!
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      1. First you want to "break" the lugs using your 19MM socket and your breaker bar... (by that I mean just loosen the lugs, you don't want to excessively shake the car around once its up on the jack!)

      2. You want to use one of the two factory jack points to lift the wheel you are working on about 3-5" off the ground... (The two factory jack points on the Dart are the pinch weld behind the rocker panel and then the frame under the car where the dealers or shops lift the car via a 4-point lift.)

      3. Remove the lugs completely and then the wheel.

      After steps 1-3 you should look like this!
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      Now, as I do not have jack stands that are small enough for this car I DO NOT recommend leaving the car sitting on the jack for this entire procedure... It is dangerous and if the jack fails the car will fall and potentially hurt or kill you!

      Now you need to find your Caliper guide pin bolts!

      The guide pin bolt are 14MM and look like this:
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      (Please excuse this picture... it is a picture of the front guide pin bolts. But don't worry! they are the same size and position on the rear calipers!)

      There are two of these guide pin bolts, One on top and one on the bottom of the caliper...

      4. Using your 14MM Wrench on the top one and your 14MM socket on the bottom, loosen and remove both the top and bottom guide pin bolts. (Make sure to use a ratcheting wrench as you do NOT want to break these bolts! REMEMBER lefty, loosy... righty, tighty LOL)

      5. After you have done #4 you can pull off the caliper... There is a gasket that holds the brake line in place, make sure to pull this out of its holder so you can move your caliper out of the way! (I just kinda hung the caliper on the rear spring and got it to stay, but anyway you can get it out of your way without putting stress on the lines should be fine!)

      Here's the gasket bracket (I already removed the gasket in this picture, you can see it in the corner!)
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      6. Remove the pad clips from the brake pads by pulling them straight back towards the rear of the car. Then take out the pads.

      After 4-6 you should look like this!
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      Next you need to remove the caliper bracket bolts, these can either be an 8MM allen head or a T-50 INTERNAL torx head... @youngsmith53 and @Bullfrog both found on their Darts they have Allen sockets... Mine happen to be the torx...

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      7. Remove BOTH top and bottom caliper bracket bolts. Then pull off the bracket and set aside.

      8. Using your 3/16" or 5MM allen key remove the rotor retaining bolt.

      9. Remove the old rotor. (You may need to tap the area on the rotor where it makes contact with the hub to get it loose)

      10. Place the new rotor on and replace the rotor retaining bolt.

      After 7-10 is finished you should look like this!
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      Please dont post anything just yet, as I need to finish this thread! Thank you!
      Last edited by Exitus04; 08-18-2016 at 11:45 AM.
      FOR P0299 CODE: REPLACE YOUR BOOST SOLENOID EITHER VIA THE DEALER OR OEM REPLACEMENT...

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      Ok here is part 2.

      Now that you have the new rotor and the rotor retaining bolt back in place you need to reattach the caliper bracket.

      11. Replace the caliper bracket back to where it belongs and tighten the bolts down the the factory spec of 48ft-lbs.

      12. Open the brake fluid reservoir.
      This is in your engine bay, the one pictured is in the 1.4L turbo engine bay...

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      13. Depress the caliper piston back into the caliper using a brake cube (pictured below)
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      This IS NOT a dart caliper but the tool is used the EXACT same way... you will set your ratchet to tighten and gently screw the piston back into the caliper...
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      14. Place the new pads into the bracket where they belong and replace the pad pins that you pulled out and set aside earlier.

      15. Place the caliper back onto the bracket and thread the guide pins in till they are hand tight.
      Once you have the caliper back in place and the guide pins hand tight, use your torque wrench and tighten the guide pins to the factory spec of 32ft-lbs.

      Once you have 11-15 done you'll look like this!
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      Dont forget to replace the brake line back into its original place! Just press the gasket back into the place you pulled it out of.

      Then, Place the wheel back onto the hub and replace the lugs bolts using the "star pattern" Get them hand tight, then lower the jack just enough till the tire is making contact with the ground.

      Use your torque wrench and torque the lugs down to the 100Ft-lbs that is recommended by the owner's manual, then lower the car all the way down and pull the jack out from under the car!

      Now, make sure to replace the brake fluid reservoir cap and tighten it down by hand. Then pump the brakes a few times to make sure the calipers are re-compressed on the brake pads!

      I dont know much about the break-in procedures for the new pads and rotors, so I just followed the Powerstop break-in procedure HERE.

      I hope that this helps all of you out when changing the rear rotors an pads!

      If anyone else has anything to add I may have missed please comment away!

      Here is a link to buy one of those brake cubes... normally Autozone will have them in stock but if you like ordering online... http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/o...ntent=17631649
      Last edited by Exitus04; 08-18-2016 at 11:54 AM.
      FOR P0299 CODE: REPLACE YOUR BOOST SOLENOID EITHER VIA THE DEALER OR OEM REPLACEMENT...

      1 of 81 BUILT IDENTICAL

      Mods:
      - Forge BOV Plate
      - MPx Intercooler Pipes
      - Custom Built 3" SRI w/ K&N cone filter
      - Stock Wastegate Adjustment (8mm)
      - GFB DV+ Valve
      - RRM Lightweight Pulley
      - DRP Race Dump
      - AEM Boost Gauge
      - CravenSpeed TB Spacer
      - ADD W1 Catch Can on the line from the PCV to the intake manifold
      - 17"x 7" Konig Control Matte Black Rims
      - BF-Goodrich G-Force Sport COMP-2 tires
      - Black Bezel Headlight Swap
      - Unichip Tuned (Custom Tune)
      - Drilled & Slotted Brake Rotors
      - Cravenspeed Short Throw Shifter
      - XenonSupply 6000K HID headlights
      - Progress Rear Sway Bar
      - Energy Bushings
      - Moog Front & Rear End Links
      - Deyeme Flex Rear Engine Mount
      - Deyeme CDV Delete
      - HPSI Silicone Vacuum Hose Kit
      - Red Plasti-Dipped Crosshair, Fog light accents & "Mouth" grille
      - AGS Assembly Removal
      - Bosch Alfa Romeo 4C CoilPacks
      - 27" x 7" x 2.5" Upgraded FMIC
      - RRM Hi-Flow Cat Downpipe
      - PTP Turbo Blanket
      SOON TO COME: Ported TB

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      Excellent write-up, again! I'd make the portion in relation to the manual a bit more clearly discernible for skimmers so they don't miss that step - just in case. :P

      Is the piston pattern the double quarter-circle like the Caravans or did they decide to do something different?
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      I've never seen anyone use a brake cube! I always use a large c-clamp

      Nice step by step guide! Great job!
      Gaia likes this.

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      Quote Originally Posted by BluDmon View Post
      I've never seen anyone use a brake cube! I always use a large c-clamp

      Nice step by step guide! Great job!
      you cant use a C-clamp on rear brakes with built in emergency brakes. they rotate out not push out.

      here are a few pictures to show rear caliper faces in general if the if the piston is not hollow and look like the below, they twist out.

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      Name:  ayedurand-97708-albums-2004-s40-t5-rear-brakes-2344-picture-s40-rbk-16-start-turning-compressing.jpg
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      Lastly, when pushing back the pistons, some say its better to crack the bleeder line and force that old fluid that sits in the caliper out, your mileage may vary but there is alternative thoughts.


      To make your life easier use some anti seeze where the rotor contacts the hub after cleaning up the hub as much as possible.
      Last edited by Bullfrog; 04-26-2016 at 05:32 AM.

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      Quote Originally Posted by Bullfrog View Post
      you cant use a C-clamp on rear brakes with built in emergency brakes. they rotate out not push out.

      here are a few pictures to show rear caliper faces in general if the if the piston is not hollow and look like the below, they twist out.

      Lastly, when pushing back the pistons, some say its better to crack the bleeder line and force that old fluid that sits in the caliper out, your mileage may vary but there is alternative thoughts.

      To make your life easier use some anti seeze where the rotor contacts the hub after cleaning up the hub as much as possible.
      Thanks for the headsup guys! I guess I've only ever worked on older stuff with drums on the rear. I'll have to go get one of those blocks!

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      You should really be removing the reservoir cap before touching brake components, mainly, to prevent any pressure build up. You don't NEED that brake cube but I'm sure it make life a lot easier! You can get away with using pliers just the same.

      I love it when people use a standard claw hammer for automotive purposes......Love to watch people struggle hitting a rusty part over and over and over. Go spend 10-15 and buy yourself a nice 2.5lb hammer. You really shouldn't have an issue with rust on the Dart's rotors even if you have 2013.

      Nice write up though!

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      Quote Originally Posted by Gaia View Post
      You should really be removing the reservoir cap before touching brake components, mainly, to prevent any pressure build up.
      Yes if you are not opening the bleeder.

      Quote Originally Posted by Gaia View Post
      You don't NEED that brake cube but I'm sure it make life a lot easier! You can get away with using pliers just the same.
      Proper tool for the job and why not? they are less then 10 bucks. you risk ripping the dust boot and its all down hill from there. If it was a super expensive 100$+ tool i could see that.

      Quote Originally Posted by Gaia View Post
      I love it when people use a standard claw hammer for automotive purposes......Love to watch people struggle hitting a rusty part over and over and over. Go spend 10-15 and buy yourself a nice 2.5lb hammer. You really shouldn't have an issue with rust on the Dart's rotors even if you have 2013.
      So you dont need a brake cube thats designed for the specific application but someone using a claw hammer they need to go out and buy a different hammer?

      Boy talk about confusing.
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      Quote Originally Posted by Bullfrog View Post
      So you dont need a brake cube thats designed for the specific application but someone using a claw hammer they need to go out and buy a different hammer?

      Boy talk about confusing.
      LMAO, I suppose that is kinda dumb!

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      MOPAR Diffuser/Skirts/Chin

      Upgrades - Performance:
      EC Intake (Red/Black)
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      Quote Originally Posted by Gaia View Post
      You really shouldn't have an issue with rust on the Dart's rotors even if you have 2013.
      I just replaced mine this weekend and the rear rotors were stuck on. Had to slam the hub with a hammer a couple times for it to actually fall off. It was pretty bad on the back side of the rotor. And my car is just a little over a year old.
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