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    Need help diagnosing power loss and advice on next steps for repairs!

    This is a discussion on Need help diagnosing power loss and advice on next steps for repairs! within the Dodge Dart 1.4L MultiAir Turbo forums, part of the Dodge Dart Garage - The Mopar Zone category; Originally Posted by MattyMopar Do all the engines require coil packs to be changed by then, or just the 1.4L's? Just the 1.4T, cause of ...

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    1. #11
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      Quote Originally Posted by MattyMopar View Post
      Do all the engines require coil packs to be changed by then, or just the 1.4L's?
      Just the 1.4T, cause of the added pressure the turbo creates the coilpacks have to give a stronger spark and tend to wear out quicker.
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      Quote Originally Posted by Exitus04 View Post
      Just the 1.4T, cause of the added pressure the turbo creates the coilpacks have to give a stronger spark and tend to wear out quicker.
      I was just looking at the '13 Dart User Guide. I see milage recommendations for changing the 1.4 spark plugs (3years or 30,000miles), but I see no mention of replacing or even inspecting the coil packs...???
      ...and if they are not part of the regular maintenance unlike spark plugs, if one goes bad under warranty, shouldn't it be covered ( no cost )?
      Last edited by longtimemopar; 01-11-2017 at 12:12 PM.
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    3. #13
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      Quote Originally Posted by longtimemopar View Post
      I was just looking at the '13 Dart User Guide. I see milage recommendations for changing the 1.4 spark plugs (3years or 30,000miles), but I see no mention of replacing or even inspecting the coil packs...???
      ...and if they are not part of the regular maintenance unlike spark plugs, if one goes bad under warranty, shouldn't it be covered ( no cost )?
      That is a very true statement... Coilpacks are NOT supposed to be a regular maintenance item... So the SHOULD be covered under warranty for replacement... BUT I would bet my bottom dollar that if the dealership finds out that you replaced the spark plugs yourself that they could technically say that you damaged the coilpack removing it incorrectly! THEN, they would only replace (1) of them, not all (4)... meaning you risk running into the same problem within a few to a couple hundred miles...
      FOR P0299 CODE: REPLACE YOUR BOOST SOLENOID EITHER VIA THE DEALER OR OEM REPLACEMENT...

      1 of 81 BUILT IDENTICAL

      Mods:
      - Forge BOV Plate
      - MPx Intercooler Pipes
      - Custom Built 3" SRI w/ K&N cone filter
      - Stock Wastegate Adjustment (8mm)
      - GFB DV+ Valve
      - RRM Lightweight Pulley
      - DRP Race Dump
      - AEM Boost Gauge
      - CravenSpeed TB Spacer
      - ADD W1 Catch Can on the line from the PCV to the intake manifold
      - 17"x 7" Konig Control Matte Black Rims
      - BF-Goodrich G-Force Sport COMP-2 tires
      - Black Bezel Headlight Swap
      - Unichip Tuned (Custom Tune)
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      SOON TO COME: Upgraded FMIC, Ported TB, ATP catted downpipe

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      Quote Originally Posted by LockJah View Post
      @Exitus04 plugs are gapped at .028 I believe.
      IIRC, the OEM gap should be either .026" or .025".

      Does your car only hesitate when it's cold, then drives normal once it's warmed up?
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      Quote Originally Posted by Exitus04 View Post
      Ok, i think that is the correct gapping for the OEM plugs when running no tune! But yes i have the Bosch coilpacks from the alfa romeo 4C! they are great!!! But here is how you check if the solenoid is bad...

      Get up to about 45MPH then shift to 5th and do a WOT pull, if the solenoid is bad you will get a CEL when you ht around 4-4.5k RPMs.
      Okay took it out to run an errand and did what you said. Nothing pulled through, no CEL so that's a relief! Coil packs have to be the place to start nailing this down then. Its not a huge power loss or jerking but its enough to worry me. Thanks Everyone I'll update if I get any new info.

      Quote Originally Posted by starscream5000 View Post
      IIRC, the OEM gap should be either .026" or .025".

      Does your car only hesitate when it's cold, then drives normal once it's warmed up?
      I read that in the manual but I also read on some threads around here that the correct gap is .028. Something about a mistake when they rolled out or whatever. The thread said that this guy called to confirm and the correct gap is .028. Ill see if I can find the thread again. OEM spark plugs and they were pre gapped.

      It seems to run normal once it warms up but its hard to tell even when its cold because it feels more like a hiccup than a hard jerk. wouldn't that be funny if this was all in my head -_-

      @longtimemopar I never saw anything about the coil packs until I started visiting this forum. It makes sense though if you read up on what these guys have said. That was the demise of My 95 saab turbo back in the day. Ignition cassette went out.
      Last edited by youngsmith53; 01-11-2017 at 01:23 PM. Reason: merging back to back to back posts per the .org guidelines.

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      Quote Originally Posted by LockJah View Post
      I read that in the manual but I also read on some threads around here that the correct gap is .028. Something about a mistake when they rolled out or whatever. The thread said that this guy called to confirm and the correct gap is .028. Ill see if I can find the thread again. OEM spark plugs and they were pre gapped.

      It seems to run normal once it warms up but its hard to tell even when its cold because it feels more like a hiccup than a hard jerk. wouldn't that be funny if this was all in my head -_-
      No, the reason @starscream5000 is asking that question is because if the gap on a turbo engine's spark plugs are too big, the pressure from the turbo causes break ups... or the spark literally getting blown out by the force of the turbo pressure. But I also think that he is right here, I think I run my OEM NGK plugs at .025" which makes the car much happier!
      FOR P0299 CODE: REPLACE YOUR BOOST SOLENOID EITHER VIA THE DEALER OR OEM REPLACEMENT...

      1 of 81 BUILT IDENTICAL

      Mods:
      - Forge BOV Plate
      - MPx Intercooler Pipes
      - Custom Built 3" SRI w/ K&N cone filter
      - Stock Wastegate Adjustment (8mm)
      - GFB DV+ Valve
      - RRM Lightweight Pulley
      - DRP Race Dump
      - AEM Boost Gauge
      - CravenSpeed TB Spacer
      - ADD W1 Catch Can on the line from the PCV to the intake manifold
      - 17"x 7" Konig Control Matte Black Rims
      - BF-Goodrich G-Force Sport COMP-2 tires
      - Black Bezel Headlight Swap
      - Unichip Tuned (Custom Tune)
      - Drilled & Slotted Brake Rotors
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      - Progress Rear Sway Bar
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      - Moog Front & Rear End Links
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      - Deyeme CDV Delete
      - HPSI Silicone Vacuum Hose Kit
      - Red Plasti-Dipped Crosshair & Fog light accents
      - AGS Fin Delete
      - Bosch Alfa Romeo 4C CoilPacks
      SOON TO COME: Upgraded FMIC, Ported TB, ATP catted downpipe

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      @starscream5000 This is where I saw that .028 gap on the plugs. Could be false but hey idk.
      1.4L spark plugs - correct gap is .028", NOT .025"

      Quote Originally Posted by Exitus04 View Post
      No, the reason @starscream5000 is asking that question is because if the gap on a turbo engine's spark plugs are too big, the pressure from the turbo causes break ups... or the spark literally getting blown out by the force of the turbo pressure. But I also think that he is right here, I think I run my OEM NGK plugs at .025" which makes the car much happier!
      Okay maybe I'll change that when I swap the coil packs for some new ones. How would I got about decreasing the gap on my plugs since they were pre gapped at .028?
      Last edited by youngsmith53; 01-11-2017 at 01:37 PM. Reason: merging back to back posts per the .org guidelines.

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      Quote Originally Posted by LockJah View Post
      @starscream5000 This is where I saw that .028 gap on the plugs. Could be false but hey idk.
      1.4L spark plugs - correct gap is .028", NOT .025"



      Okay maybe I'll change that when I swap the coil packs for some new ones. How would I got about decreasing the gap on my plugs since they were pre gapped at .028?
      I run my gap at .026" right now, but I'm due for new plugs soon and will be trying out .024" at that time. I have numerous mods on my car, so it's warranted for me, but I think .026" may help you out some. I feel like my OEM NGKs all came pre-gapped at .026" IIRC.

      There's a feeler gauge tool you'll need to use on the plug, don't use one of those round plug gap tools that can go on a keychain, those types will break off the fine tipped electrode on our Iridium plugs.

      Name:  Spark plug tool.bmp
Views: 23
Size:  199.4 KB

      I will also say this: My car will also have a slight hesitation to it when it's cold outside until the engine gets into open loop mode (around 125-130 degree coolant temp). I think the computer may be feeding the engine too much fuel in cold weather in closed loop, causing the hesitation we're getting.

      I also have new, NGEN coil packs, so I don't have weak coils, I attribute this behavior to the computer's programming.
      Last edited by starscream5000; 01-11-2017 at 02:25 PM.
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    9. #19
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      Quote Originally Posted by Exitus04 View Post
      That is a very true statement... Coilpacks are NOT supposed to be a regular maintenance item... So the SHOULD be covered under warranty for replacement... BUT I would bet my bottom dollar that if the dealership finds out that you replaced the spark plugs yourself that they could technically say that you damaged the coilpack removing it incorrectly! THEN, they would only replace (1) of them, not all (4)... meaning you risk running into the same problem within a few to a couple hundred miles...
      I looked up what is covered under the Maximum Care warranty plan. "Components covered by the plan...Electrical...Ignition Coil, Coil Pack Assembly..." There are other warranty plans that might not cover the coil packs, but if your car is still under the bumper to bumper warranty or you have an extended Maximum Care warranty, bad coil packs should be replaced under the provisions of your warranty. My plan has a $100 deductible. Coil pack goes bad = $100, Coil pack goes bad = $100, etc.
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      Quote Originally Posted by longtimemopar View Post
      I looked up what is covered under the Maximum Care warranty plan. "Components covered by the plan...Electrical...Ignition Coil, Coil Pack Assembly..." There are other warranty plans that might not cover the coil packs, but if your car is still under the bumper to bumper warranty or you have an extended Maximum Care warranty, bad coil packs should be replaced under the provisions of your warranty. My plan has a $100 deductible. Coil pack goes bad = $100, Coil pack goes bad = $100, etc.
      Yeah, so in that case... if a coil pack goes bad its almost worth just paying the extra $100 or $200 to get (4) new OEM ones or (4) new Bosch ones!
      longtimemopar likes this.
      FOR P0299 CODE: REPLACE YOUR BOOST SOLENOID EITHER VIA THE DEALER OR OEM REPLACEMENT...

      1 of 81 BUILT IDENTICAL

      Mods:
      - Forge BOV Plate
      - MPx Intercooler Pipes
      - Custom Built 3" SRI w/ K&N cone filter
      - Stock Wastegate Adjustment (8mm)
      - GFB DV+ Valve
      - RRM Lightweight Pulley
      - DRP Race Dump
      - AEM Boost Gauge
      - CravenSpeed TB Spacer
      - ADD W1 Catch Can on the line from the PCV to the intake manifold
      - 17"x 7" Konig Control Matte Black Rims
      - BF-Goodrich G-Force Sport COMP-2 tires
      - Black Bezel Headlight Swap
      - Unichip Tuned (Custom Tune)
      - Drilled & Slotted Brake Rotors
      - Cravenspeed Short Throw Shifter
      - XenonSupply 6000K HID headlights
      - Progress Rear Sway Bar
      - Energy Bushings
      - Moog Front & Rear End Links
      - Deyeme Flex Rear Engine Mount
      - Deyeme CDV Delete
      - HPSI Silicone Vacuum Hose Kit
      - Red Plasti-Dipped Crosshair & Fog light accents
      - AGS Fin Delete
      - Bosch Alfa Romeo 4C CoilPacks
      SOON TO COME: Upgraded FMIC, Ported TB, ATP catted downpipe

     

     
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